Off Topic: 5th Wheel Trailers

Thanks everyone for the feedback. This started innocently enough. My wife and I went to the Seattle RV show on Saturday. My intention was to look at a 22' Arctic Fox or Lance travel trailer, something easily towable with my F-150. After checking out the 22' trailers, we walk into a couple of 5th wheels and suddenly my wife gets very excited. I guess it would be like looking at a 22' C-Dory, then looking at a 37' Nordic Tug. Anyway, it looks like a fiver might be in our future, along with an F-350 to tow it. It appears that two-foot-itis exists in the RV world as well as the boating world.
 
hardee":2ofnnw4e said:
Jim,
C-Hawk, how does that rig do in pulling? Gas or Diesel? Did it need any beefing up for the Tranny or suspension?

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

IMGP3306.thumb.jpg

Powered by gas- 8.1 GM, added a steering stabilizer. Tows the boat with little effort. Averages 7-8 mpg with or without a tow.
 
Leo Smith":2tdrqnd6 said:
Thanks everyone for the feedback. This started innocently enough. My wife and I went to the Seattle RV show on Saturday. My intention was to look at a 22' Arctic Fox or Lance travel trailer, something easily towable with my F-150. After checking out the 22' trailers, we walk into a couple of 5th wheels and suddenly my wife gets very excited. I guess it would be like looking at a 22' C-Dory, then looking at a 37' Nordic Tug. Anyway, it looks like a fiver might be in our future, along with an F-350 to tow it. It appears that two-foot-itis exists in the RV world as well as the boating world.

More like ten-foot-itis. :wink:

A couple weight numbers to keep in mind when picking out a 5th wheel and truck:

Dry weight of the 5th wheel (over-all weight before adding accessories and your stuff)

Gross vehicle weight of the 5th wheel (subtract the dry weight from this number, and you will have an idea of the carrying capacity of the trailer)

Pin weight (how much weight of the 5th wheel will be carried in the bed of the truck - important for picking both the trailer and the truck)

Axle weight (how much weight of the 5th wheel will be carried by the axles - some manufacturers try to cut cost by using lighter capacity axles and put more pin weight)

Gross vehicle weight of the truck (what the truck and its carrying capacity total - this will be important when picking a 5th wheel because it gives you an idea of what the truck can handle for pin weight)

Gross combined vehicle weight (what the total of the truck and whatever it is towing can weigh)

We had different RV salesmen tell us, "Oh, your truck can pull anything on this lot!" Not true. We picked the 5th wheel we had based on what our truck could comfortably handle (we already had the truck).

The discussion of trucks is major on 5th wheel forums: single rear wheels, dually, 4x4, 2 wheel drive, pickups vs medium duty trucks, and of course which manufacturer.

We have seen many drivers pulling 5th wheels much heavier than the HitchHiker we had with the same truck... knowing that they are over-loaded. Some nicer 5th wheels (DRV for example) have had issues with blow-outs and axle problems because they are right at the axle weight rating before you load anything into them. Some put 4,000 pound pin weights by moving the axles back... letting the buyer be responsible for a heavy duty truck (you see this frequently with the big toy hauler 5th wheels).

Good luck with the search. In some ways, picking out an RV is tougher than picking out a boat... with a C-Dory, you can see how it is put together... with RVs, there is a lot of "fluff" that can cover the construction. Manufacturers are generally trying to keep the weight low, and often don't do it the best way.

Before we picked the HitchHiker, we walked around RV parks. RVers are like boaters: ask a question about their rig and you will get an answer. I found it interesting to see how various manufacturers' models held up after a few years on the road. NuWa did not offer full body paint when we bought our 2009. That is an expensive option on a 5th wheel, but sure looks better over the long haul (one of our "musts" in the search for the RV we now have).

Sit in all the furniture. Stand in the shower. See if you have access to all the storage areas with the slides in and out. See if the closet will actually accommodate a full size hanger (some don't).

5th wheels have great liveability when parked. If you will be traveling a lot, you will want to know if you have access to your fridge and bathroom with the slide-outs in... an inconvenience if you have to run a slide-out room out when stopped for lunch or a potty break.

Leveling jacks have become popular on 5th wheels. Without them, you have to carry a variety of blocks to run one side of the wheels up... and some back and forth... check the level, and repeat. With leveling jacks, you just press the button. All of the motorhomes we owned (including this new one) had jacks, our 5th wheel didn't... I really missed having them.

Even though you may not be full-timing in the rig you buy, pick one that is made for extended living - it will be better insulated and designed to deal with the condensation and humidity that is common in all RVs (just like in boats).

Most 5th wheels do not come with a generator (most of the toy hauler types do). Will you be staying in RV parks or boondocking? Kinda like the difference between staying in a marina with your boat or anchoring out. A generator in a 5th wheel will generally be in the front basement compartment and will take up a LOT of your storage space. We carried a Honda 2000 in our HitchHiker, but found we rarely had the need for it (where it got regular use in the boat).

Though I mentioned it before, don't be swayed by "fluff"... the most important thing is how the 5th wheel is put together. When we were talking to a salesman last year, he asked about how many miles we have towed the 5th wheel. When I told him, he said, "Don't ever tell anyone that number - most 5th wheels are completely worn out after 20,000 miles." I chuckled about that, but could see what he was talking about with some manufacturers. There are definite entry level models and there are the extending living manufacturers. Just like with boats, if you can buy a similar size model from another manufacturer for 25% less than a quality-built rig, there IS a reason. Read the forums to see how any particular manufacturer stands behind what they build.

Best wishes,
Jim
 
When we had the boat and a Chevvy Duramax, we hauled a modest trailer for a couple of years to see if we liked the RV lifestyle.

Negotiating gas(diesel) stations was sometimes a problem+ at 10mpg, not to mention price when in Canada. Also messing with hitching/unhitching etc. was a bit tiresome in bad weather.

Thought about a 5th wheel but that compromised the usefulness of the truck by filling up the bed (unless we got a removable hitch) so we sold the truck :sad and bought a Skinny Winny View on the Sprinter chassis which is the basis of just about every small truck/van in Europe. Premise being that we could drive it just about anywhere and did not need to tow anything.

After 2+ years and two coast to coast (and more) trips I think we would sum it up as:-

Mercedes engine/chassis - Solid and reliable. Doesn't have the "grunt" of the Duramax but at 15 mpg I'm not complaining.
Did need a couple of Boat Units investment to suspension upgrades since the Winnebago body is much heavier than the standard van. With those in place it drives easier than our 4wd Subaru.

Winnebago body. is a bit like a CD22 with slide outs (wouldn't that be great on a CD). We find adequate room for two of us plus two dogs but the prior CD experience definitely helps. Like Jim, we found that Winnebago must have a "Plumber" on the production line with an evil sense of humor. In out case he thought that a push fit connection with a 45 degree kink in it was fun particularly when hidden deep in the bilges.
(and Yes, we also have one mysterious key which fits only one lock)

Otherwise no problems on over 32K Miles except tearing up the front set of OEM Continentals (Crap tires) Michelin replacements are far better.

Since we purchased this unit, Winnebago and others have introduced a number of improvements and other models/layouts.

The View/ Nation websites (3) are also very much like this one and full of helpful hints tips and joint get togethers.

Thats my 2c worth

M
 
Lots of great information.

I would add, look at used units of the brand you are interested in. See how they hold up. Ask questions of owners. See if there certain years to avoid. (For example Monaco started having very severe financial issues in 2007==and the 2007 thry 2010 vehicles were sort of orphens, when the company went out of business--and then was bought several times (sound familiar?)

Look at the chassis, find the axle and wheel capacity, see if they are over, or under engineered. I would avoid wood when possible. Look for leaks. If you find nay get on it immediately--far worse than in a boat.

Often the difference between top of the line ($$$$) and mid teir units is the cabnetry and extras. Do you want pressed wood, or solid cherry? Its going to cost--and OK if kept dry...but screws dont hold as well, and water spells severe problelms.

We had one RV whiich was overloaded even sitting there--let alone add fuel, water and supplies.

Good advice to spend a few extra bucks on good tires and suspension upgrades. Some clubs allow substantial discount of Miclhian tires. I recently re shoed my RV (cost a bundle, but it was a saving of about $200 a tire, plus I got tires less than a month old. I have paid more for tires which were two years old when installled...so buyer beware--chceck the date codes.

Subscribe to the owners sites--and reqad the threads before buying.
 
Not particular to any one RV type or brand, but if you are going to be towing a trailer (i.e. with tongue weight), I'd say make sure to check out the rear axle weight rating of the tow (or motorhome), and then do the math as far as how the overhang multiplies that weight onto the rear axle. When I did this I had to rule out several choices because I could not have towed the C-Dory and stayed under the rear axle rating. There is a specific formula to use (and I found it to be very accurately reflected in real-world scale weights), but just for a ballpark idea, with something like an 8-9' distance from hitch ball to rear axle, a ~350# tongue weight will add ~550# to the rear axle. The more the overhang distance the more the tongue weight is "magnified" on the rear axle. As I mentioned above, I found that to be the "nix factor" on several RV's -- even though the "tow rating" was still ample (according to the ever-optimistic brochure ratings).

Being able to calculate it ahead of time keeps there from being any big surprises.
 
I would look at Outdoors RV Manufacturing's line up. They have a model of 5th wheel called Glacier Peak that comes in a number of configurations. We are looking at a trailer also made by Outdoors RV model name Wind River 240 RSKW. They seem to be rated pretty well and are a four season equipped units. Check them out at www.outdoorsrvmfg.com
D.D.
 
We were thinking travel trailer or 5th wheel last Fall. Having looked at lots while land c dorying over the last couple years. We've been at a couple Rv dealers. Lots of pressure to buy today. Whoa. They all want us inside right away. Yes that's important. What I want to see is underneath. Axles, brakes and suspension and sealing. I was appalled at how road moisture is kept out. A sheet of corrugated plastic and tie straps on Springdale and many others. Particle board everywhere. One sales guy told us a TT or mid 5'er is good for 20,000 miles or 5 years whichever is first. We were told no one tows in the rain so the road moisture is no concern. Uh huh?! Then rotted floors walls etc. rubber membrane roof, no thanks. Saw several on I5 with big bubble on top at speed. Delaminates of course. Lots of brand new units with loose screws, things missing or broken and they're still on the lot! Go high end and you 'should" be ok. We bought a condo. We'll drag the cd it's fine. When we want to go Rv later we'll likely be smaller type gas engine likely Winnebago. Best of luck. George
 
One thing for sure, the C-Dory's underbelly is properly sealed from road moisture :)

Even though it's a land based business, it sure seems there are a lot of sharks at dealerships. It' amazing the kind of quality some Mfgs are putting out
 
C-Hawk":2wefgr7g said:
We have a 2001 TREK Slope nose (bought new) 2001 and 2002 were the only years that TREK had the slope nose.
The restroom/ shower is as large as any apartment restroom. The galley has a lot of storage space- drawers and cupboards- made with real wood.
With the queen bed in the ceiling, we have more room than any 35' MH in 29'
Fishtales_FishInn.jpg
Launching at Katherine's Landing, Lake Mohave.

I work in oil and gas, and I approve this message. :thup
 
B~C":2r8rxhey said:
One thing for sure, the C-Dory's underbelly is properly sealed from road moisture :)

Even though it's a land based business, it sure seems there are a lot of sharks at dealerships. It' amazing the kind of quality some Mfgs are putting out

Someone sent me this link. I'm pretty sure it is sealed from the bottom side up. It is a really cute, C-Dory of the trailer trade, land vessel. I just don't know how to get the picture to here. (:oops: Help Please,:arrow: )

http://www.lilsnoozy.com/

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
hardee":281cxiai said:
B~C":281cxiai said:
One thing for sure, the C-Dory's underbelly is properly sealed from road moisture :)

Even though it's a land based business, it sure seems there are a lot of sharks at dealerships. It' amazing the kind of quality some Mfgs are putting out

Someone sent me this link. I'm pretty sure it is sealed from the bottom side up. It is a really cute, C-Dory of the trailer trade, land vessel. I just don't know how to get the picture to here. (:oops: Help Please,:arrow: )

http://www.lilsnoozy.com/

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

Harvey- Can't link it either! Probably protected from copying by JavaScript or...?

For a good look, and leads to pursue, check out:

https://www.google.com/search?q=%22Lil% ... 44&bih=859

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Thanks everyone for the insights and helpful advice. After pricing out a fiver and an F-350, we have scaled back our RV ambitions and will be going with a TT that works within the towing limits of our current F-150. The fiver and F-350 will happen after retirement.
 
This has been very interesting reading for me. After retirement in '98 we bought a pop-top camper and used it 2 or 3 months at a time for about 10 years. By then we had used it more than 400 nights and driven it 200,000 miles, many of the miles on dirt roads in Canada & the western US. Judging from the comment of a life span of 20,000 miles I guess we got our money's worth, although, when water got in and rotted some wood structure in the top requiring extensive rebuilding I felt cheated. I guess I better rethink that.

Last fall we were in the southern Gulf Islands and met several "large" boaters (30 to 50 feet) who were living aboard in the summer and then go to Arizona, Mexico or Florida in the winter. As we visited with them I realized that we have always gone camping, either in our RV or in our boat. The people in the big boats were "living" aboard, which is quite a different experience from camping. I think many people try and buy an RV or boat with enough features so they can move their living experience from a home to the RV/boat with little change in their life style. That usually is a failure for many reasons and explains the many one year old used boats/ RVs available.

So it really boils down to taking a realistic look at yourself and your expectations and making choices on what will work for you, not the nice videos, advertizing brochures or the salesman.

Chuck
 
Chucks explanation of camping vs living is on all four corners!

We've always camped, although several years ago borrowed a friends 27+ft Winnie to drive north of Fairbanks, AK. It changed my entire idea of "full-size RVs are for slow breathers" mentality. We're retired, and although I still prefer the size of Class B's, I agree with my wife's choice of something substantially larger in length, width and slide outs.

Older isn't getting softer...it's getting smarter ;)

I would suggest renting or borrowing some rigs to try out on an extended vacation, before writing a check. * Add 25% for insurance, maintenance, and incidentals.
 
hardee":2o06zo8o said:
B~C":2o06zo8o said:
One thing for sure, the C-Dory's underbelly is properly sealed from road moisture :)

Even though it's a land based business, it sure seems there are a lot of sharks at dealerships. It' amazing the kind of quality some Mfgs are putting out

Someone sent me this link. I'm pretty sure it is sealed from the bottom side up. It is a really cute, C-Dory of the trailer trade, land vessel. I just don't know how to get the picture to here. (:oops: Help Please,:arrow: )

http://www.lilsnoozy.com/

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

TrailerJPG_zpsc6503cec.jpg
 
Earlier in life than most, my late wife and I bought a 31' Winnebago Brave Class A motorhome. We held on to it for about 7 or 8 years and put about 70,000 miles on it. Many weekend camping excursions, along with many vacations of 1 to 4 weeks duration. The longest being a month long trip through Alaska. Prior to this, we had experienced two weeks in a Class C rental from Cruise America, and several owned camping trailers 16-23' prior to that. We tented once. Besides my late wife and I, were our two twin boys. I can not say enough of how fortunate we were to do all this traveling at a younger age. I can see many advantages to each style of RV. The Class A experience was great for us. Great vantage from inside it while traveling down the road, and able to tow a boat or a few times a small car on a trailer. The camping trailers were great at a time when we didn't need to tow anything else and we had the much younger twins and expenses of starting out in life. I think many here have hit upon deciding exactly what kind of lifestyle you plan to live in the RV, and if possible, trying each out first. The only disadvantage I saw to the Class A (same for Class C) would be if it sits much. You are still paying for maintenance and insurance costs. When we purchased our Class A, I had looked at several lines. Ended up coming down to the Winnebago and the Fleetwood as affordable options. The Winnebago was built better, just in the finish of cabinet corners, etc. I was also fond of Fords, so we went with the Ford Chassis. Colby
 
"One thing for sure, the C-Dory's underbelly is properly sealed from road moisture." (B-C)


TrailerJPG_zpsc6503cec.jpg

The "Lil Snoozy looks pretty well sealed up to me, too!

Looks to me like it needs an outboard or two..............!

Twins or a single? :lol:

Add a sun roof or two and we can drink, play poker, stay warm, and shoot ducks from inside too. Versatile! What's not to like? :wink

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
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