my oil looks like a milkshake :(

C

cmetzenberg

New member
So after my run in with Katie the shark my port engine (honda bf150 2007 700hrs) was running rough. Today I inspected it and found milkshake oil. I found water in the #4 cylinder. all cylinders had spark and injection. The compression readings were:
1-210
2-190
3-195
4-180

To me this points towards a blown head gasket. What do you all think? I just did a 700 hrs service, so the oil was brand new and so was the impeller.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PbZMNPepb7XAqpT66
 
happen to me twice once on a 50 yamaha 4 strk and once on a 115 merc 4 strk

both times a thermostat
 
A thermostat doesn’t impact only 1 cylinder. The thermostat will add condensate to the oil, but will not make 1 cylinder wet, nor make 1 spark plug a different color than the rest.
 
cmetzenberg":3uvnd7zd said:
So after my run in with Katie the shark my port engine (honda bf150 2007 700hrs) was running rough. Today I inspected it and found milkshake oil. I found water in the #4 cylinder. all cylinders had spark and injection. The compression readings were:
1-210
2-190
3-195
4-180

To me this points towards a blown head gasket. What do you all think? I just did a 700 hrs service, so the oil was brand new and so was the impeller.
Click to expand...

Pretty big swing between #1 & #4 not a good sign. Head gasket is my guess.
 
Head gasket would be the best case scenario at this point. While attempting to get boresights of the cylinder walls a mirror on the endoscope broke off and is in the #4 cylinder...eh, the heads are coming off anyways. I was hoping to get a look at the cylinder walls and see how they looked.
 
cmetzenberg":36kkc3u6 said:
Head gasket would be the best case scenario at this point. While attempting to get boresights of the cylinder walls a mirror on the endoscope broke off and is in the #4 cylinder...eh, the heads are coming off anyways. I was hoping to get a look at the cylinder walls and see how they looked.
Click to expand...

You will have a great view now! :wink:
 
Well, I got the worst news; my headgasket wasn't the issue. The issue was the engine had overheated repetitively. I don't understand this as i rarely get overheat alarms. Every now and then kelp will fowl the intakes but you just backdown and it comes off.

Anyways, my port engine is toast and is now only good worth a few thousand in salvage parts. Anyone have any advice on an economical way to replace? I don't want to drop 13k on a new one.
 
Is it a counter rotating engine?

Look for a used engine. Probably more likely to find one in places rather than Calif. A rebuilt--be be careful, there are some unscrupulous rebuilders.

A new or rebuilt power head--keeping your lower unit.

Occasionally a fisherman may decide to repower, and go with a larger engine.

There are 2 Honda 150's for sale on E-bay currently.

Search Craig's list.

Find a "Scratch and dent" new motor--I got one for several thousand off--had a bent skeg and scratches/ cracks in the cowl . it had been on a new boat, and in delivery the engine had been backed into an obstruction, with cosmetic damage.
 
thataway":2dysu04f said:
Is it a counter rotating engine?

Look for a used engine. Probably more likely to find one in places rather than Calif. A rebuilt--be be careful, there are some unscrupulous rebuilders.

A new or rebuilt power head--keeping your lower unit.

Occasionally a fisherman may decide to repower, and go with a larger engine.

There are 2 Honda 150's for sale on E-bay currently.

Search Craig's list.

Find a "Scratch and dent" new motor--I got one for several thousand off--had a bent skeg and scratches/ cracks in the cowl . it had been on a new boat, and in delivery the engine had been backed into an obstruction, with cosmetic damage.
Click to expand...

Hi Bob,
I'm leaning towards getting a used engine and putting my lower unit on it to keep rotation. That's all I have to do right?

I'm really confused how the engine got this way. The mechanic says it was significantly overheated over long periods of time.
 
I would be interested in learning how frequent overheat can put water in the crankcase. If it was hot enough to warp the head you would not have needed an overheat alarm to know it. And why would it only do it to the brand new oil and not the previous oil if it was a long term condition?

I am not doubting your mechanic, but genuinely interested in knowing. I learn stuff on here all the time and am always appreciative when I do.

Best of luck with the replacement.
 
TyBoo":3bzyzo28 said:
I would be interested in learning how frequent overheat can put water in the crankcase. If it was hot enough to warp the head you would not have needed an overheat alarm to know it. And why would it only do it to the brand new oil and not the previous oil if it was a long term condition?

I am not doubting your mechanic, but genuinely interested in knowing. I learn stuff on here all the time and am always appreciative when I do.

Best of luck with the replacement.
Click to expand...

Crack in cil. head between water jacket & combustion chamber?
 
TyBoo":2uog160b said:
I would be interested in learning how frequent overheat can put water in the crankcase. If it was hot enough to warp the head you would not have needed an overheat alarm to know it. And why would it only do it to the brand new oil and not the previous oil if it was a long term condition?

I am not doubting your mechanic, but genuinely interested in knowing. I learn stuff on here all the time and am always appreciative when I do.

Best of luck with the replacement.
Click to expand...

right now i am doubting my mechanic. He has a questionable reputation but is the honda rep in the area.
I never got an overheat alarm, just the occasionally alarm for kelp on the intakes, which was cleared. occasionally that would result in a safety shutdown. Could that have been bad enough to trash an engine?!
 
cmetzenberg":1xiut16e said:
TyBoo":1xiut16e said:
I would be interested in learning how frequent overheat can put water in the crankcase. If it was hot enough to warp the head you would not have needed an overheat alarm to know it. And why would it only do it to the brand new oil and not the previous oil if it was a long term condition?

I am not doubting your mechanic, but genuinely interested in knowing. I learn stuff on here all the time and am always appreciative when I do.

Best of luck with the replacement.
Click to expand...

right now i am doubting my mechanic. He has a questionable reputation but is the honda rep in the area.
I never got an overheat alarm, just the occasionally alarm for kelp on the intakes, which was cleared. occasionally that would result in a safety shutdown. Could that have been bad enough to trash an engine?!
Click to expand...

Only takes once to overheat, warp & or crack something.
If it's apart should be easy enough to tell & good time to inspect cil. walls etc.
:wink: :thup
 
My guess is cracked cylinder head. Start with that, pull it off have a head shop check it out. If they find a crack just slap a used head on and hope for the best

Also, I had a honda 25hp that sucked some small gravel and plugged up the cooling channels so I put a relatively high pressure hose directly to the water pickup to clear it out. Shot water 30 feet out of the tell tale but also somehow backflowed water into the motor, through the exhaust I assume. Are you using an unusually high water pressure when flushing the motor?
 
I don’t know how a mechanic could determine “frequent” overheat - frankly that is bs. I come from a family of master mechanics and have done troubleshooting, and overhauls, on many different engines, as well as all mechanical troubleshooting and repairs. Overheating can crack a head and impact the water jacket, but lack of oil lube from oil getting watered down can cause scoring or parts to wear. Heads can or will warp if overheating occurs, requiring repairs such as welding cracks between valves, and/or milling to make surfaces flat. Most dealer mechanics or reps will not do rebuilds, they only remove and replace major parts. You would need to find an engine rebuilder who inspects parts, grinds cams and cranks, surfaces heads, grinds valves, bores cylinders, etc. I would hesitate having the dealer mechanics do anything but engine replacement, or component replacements. You can find marine engine rebuilders on eBay, etc that have rebuilt “short” or “long” blocks that can get your engine going again. Also, you might find some full-service engine machine shops that have individuals that are experienced with marine repairs. Good luck with your current dealer interactions.
 
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