I'm relieved ! (Winter project)

S

South of Heaven

New member
I had a good C Dory weekend! Here's the short version.....

Last year I noticed a bit of rot in my cockpit steps when I removed one of them for inspection. So I didn't think too much about it but that got me thinking about the cockpit sole. So I decided to have my boat stored indoors in a temperature controlled warehouse for the winter. Once the boat was indoors I opened up all the rectangular cockpit hatches, opened the circular hatches, took the steps off, sprayed fungicide in the bilge and opened up the entire cockpit sole......Then I let in dry out for 4 months and 2 weeks. I also said a prayer! Lol.

Fast forward to this weekend. We inspected the progress. The steps were the biggest problem. There was about 3 inches of rot around the entire perimeter (I knew that last November though). So we removed all the rot and filled the steps with MarineTex. It's a 2 stage epoxy filler. The steps were filled completely and then a thin layer of silicon was added after the epoxy cured.

The cockpit sole was in AWESOME condition! There was no rot anywhere....except for a tiny area around the cockpit inspection hatch. We cleaned out the rot and laid a thick layer of silicon around the entire hatch.

The added bonus of removing the cockpit was getting access to the 100 gallon tank and bilge. I was amazed at the tank; it was HUGE. It was also very dirty...While my mechanic (and friend, a retired electrical engineer by trade) was working on something else I cleaned the entire tank and bilge. I used a mildew cleaner for the tank and bilge; most of the crud came off. The tank and lines were in great condition. My mechanic only suggested that we clean the wire contacts with electrical contact spray. They all cleaned up nicely. I got the bilge fairly clean too, although it was kinda hard to make it 100%.

Lastly we put the cockpit sole back on. We used 3M 4000 around the entire perimeter and then a thin layer of silicon on top of that, after it had cured. The screw holes were also filled with silicon before the screws went back in.

I'm very HAPPY with the job and 100% confident that the cockpit is completely waterproof. I actually supervised a lot of the job (and helped too). It also helps that I have a knowledgeable tech who I trust and is honest......unfortunately I DO NOT TRUST the builder of my my 25. They didn't even seal the steps or hatches!!!! I'm doing their job 10 years later and I'm spending a good amount of money on this!! Let's see what else I find this year....

SHAME ON THE BUILDER, CIRCA 2007 !!! WTF

Here's a picture before I cleaned the tank. And one of the cockpit sole. I forgot to take more pics. Sorry!
 
Here is the 100 gallon fuel tank before I cleaned it. Those long pieces of tape are electrical tape and cover the wires from each side of the fuel lines.

20170402_144458.jpg
 
Well, I did the same on Journey On. You can read about it (if you want to) here: C-Dory 25 Cockpit Recaulk and here: Gas Tank leak on my 25. The second blog will tell you more than you want to know about the gas tank and it's installation.

Congratulations on a messy job. I notice that you don't mention checking under the tank even though you can't remove it without cutting the supports. I assume you found no corrosion. Silicon isn't my favorite sealer. It tends to peel and you can't remove it when you want to.

Boris
 
When I saw the title of this thread, I thought maybe you were relieved that you had gone 4 months without buying another boat! :wink:
 
These are exactly the same areas where I had rot in my 2008 25 (which I've since sold). The rot around the inspection port in the sole was pretty extensive. A boatyard replaced all of the core in the sole and it felt like a new boat. I never realized how much the old sole was flexing when walking on it. The steps had the core replaced / solidified.

The other area where I had a major problem was on the foredeck. The factory also did not properly seal the plywood core when installing the "hawespipe". The rot there was also pretty extensive, so the core where both the windlass and the anchor cleat were installed was not structurally sound. The plywood core on a large section of foredeck had to be replaced via access in the berth.

These were not cheap fixes to say the least, but they had to be done.
 
I have already discussed this with Jason via e-mail. My feeling is that silicone should not play a role in this type of repair. Even if there is no rot, anyplace where there is potential, the core should be routed out and a rim of thickened epoxy applied, after you have coated the core material with un-thickened epoxy. I mix the epoxy--paint the area, and then add the cabosil and medium density filler. Screw holes can then be redilled into the epoxy, and the screws put in place. If you want a sealant the 3m 4000 works fine. Boat life also makes some products which work well.

Why put silicone over the 4000?

Electrical wiring:--clean up contacts with small wire brush and put anti corrosion gel back on the joints, Corrosion block is the material to put on electrical joints. Contact cleaner does not leave a protective film. If you want to use a contact cleaner when cleaning--great--but protect the joints, especially in an area which is perpetually damp.
 
Boris: We didnt use much silicone. The biggest repair was the steps and MarineTex epoxy was used. No, I didn't look under the tank. There was no signs of corrosion on the top.

James: If C Dory made a bigger boat I would've bought it over the winter! I dont want the venture 26 or TomCat. Lol.

Beerman: My rot wasn't as extensive (thank God). The steps had the most and even that was only a few inches around.

Bob: Thanks for your help over the past few days .
 
BrentB":4jb5tvoo said:
Any plans to ventilate the bilge during storage? ex solar or hard wire fan? It needs to breathe to reduce humidity
Click to expand...

Brent,
By storage do you mean during the boating season or in the winter? In 2 weeks from now my boat will be at slip in the marina until November 1st.

No, i don't have any plans to vent the bilge other than just opening up all hatches if I see we have a good stretch of weather. But even that can be tricky because in the morning there is always dew that accumulates.
 
Well, if you read "Gas Tank Leak on my 25" I believe Anna Leigh's corrosion was through the tank bottom, from the salt water. I checked it with a mirror and found almost no corrosion. Of course, Journey On spends most of the time on the trailer and the bilge only sees fresh water from the wash down.

Boris
 
South of Heaven":2fpa7na6 said:
BrentB":2fpa7na6 said:
Any plans to ventilate the bilge during storage? ex solar or hard wire fan? It needs to breathe to reduce humidity
Click to expand...

Brent,
By storage do you mean during the boating season or in the winter? In 2 weeks from now my boat will be at slip in the marina until November 1st.

No, i don't have any plans to vent the bilge other than just opening up all hatches if I see we have a good stretch of weather. But even that can be tricky because in the morning there is always dew that accumulates.
Click to expand...

When boat is not in use, a fan to exhaust air from the bilge which is very humid and has less chance to ventilate itself
 
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