Ft. Peck Reservoir

El and Bill

New member
While in Montana this summer, we hope to do some boating on Ft. Peck Reservoir. Been years since we were last there, while on a two month down-river kayak trip on the upper Missouri River.

We heard such good tales about the Big Horn Canyon from Yellowstone John, we're hoping he will share some thoughts with the forum about Ft. Peck. Like - best launch sites, places to see, and some of his experiences on the lake.
 
El and Bill - Here goes. For C-Dory folks info, Fort Peck Lake created by a dam on the MIssouri in central Montana in the 1930s has fabulous boating once you get to the water. It is a big "honker" with over 1,500 miles of shoreline and is rated as the largest fresh water body in the United States outside of the Great Lakes. Many species of warm water fish abound, and even chinook salmon have been successfully introduced for the deep water areas.

With the prevailing west winds, when storms do blow up, they can create big waves. With all kinds of arms spreading out from the main lake, boaters can usually find sheltered anchorages.

The first challenge is to get to it. The second one is to find a launch site. The third is to find a launch site with fuel. At my last count three launch sites had fuel. Some launch sites, e.g., Crooked Creek, are found 50 miles from a paved road. I know. I dragged my first 22' over that much gravel. Never again.

But the water is great! And when you are boating there you are not beset with a host of annoying regulations. The surrounding country is like it was when Lewis & Clark travelled on the Missouri River. If you enjoy boating where boats are rarely found beyond the few marinas, then Fort Peck will reward you. Walking the shorelines and hiking the ridges is a fun activity, too.

Over the years I have had several adventures on Fort Peck. One in particular occurred on the Friday of the Labor Day weekend in 1997.
The Far West II was in a slip in the Hell Creek marina. Hell Creek can be described as a "rustic" marina located 25 north of Jordan, Mt. after 25 miles of twists and turns on a reasonably decent gravel road - depending upon the season of course and the most recent thunder storms.

July of 1997 was a most difficult month for my family and me. We were living in Oregon at that time and boating Yellowstone Lake. My wife, Ursla, who loved boating and the C-Dory in particular, was in the advanced stages of diabetes. She went into a coma at Bridge Bay Marina and was rushed to a hospital in Billlings, and after five days she died on July 27.

The death of one's mate is traumatic enough, but when it occurs and your residence happens to be in another state, things can become complicated. My beloved Montana added to these complications by a series of unintentional blunders.

I mention all this and later as a prelude to the adventure in early Sept.

After Ursla's funeral, my four adult children and I began to lay out the "where do we go from here" scenario. It was decided that we would return to Yellowstone Park, retrieve the Far West II and put it into the Hell Creek Marina. My 11 year old grandson had been promised a boating and fishing trip which would be postponed until the Labor Day weekend.

After moving the boat I flew from Billings to Portland to reach my home north of Corvallis, of course leaving my pickup at the Billings airport.

I was patiently waiting for my wife's death certificate from Montana. Over a week went by and no certificate. As all of you folks know handling estate matters, nothing can be done with out death certificates. A check with the Yellowstone County Court house revealed no death certificate had been received. Calls to the attending physician's office accomplished nothing. The doctor had just left on an extended vacation out of the country. After a series of calls to the doctor's clinic, I left a message with the director that I was going to begin legal proceedings against the whole shooting match. A day later the director called saying that they had found the death certificate unsigned under a pile of papers, but only the doctor could sign it. Sorry. Only three weeks transpired when I finally received it.

But I added to my own misery by scheduling surgery on my left knee
in late August in June. That injury occurred at Fort Peck the year before while slipping off a boarding ladder and tearing the medial meniscus.

Keeping the date with my grandson was important, but it meant surgery the day before I flew back to Billings. No problem I said.

I arrive back at the Billings Airport on a very hot, humid early evening and headed for Fort Peck. As I drove north, evening thunder heads were building up all along the west. Reaching Hell Creek Marina at 10:00 p.m., I went to the boat and crawled in. I simply opened up the forward hatch and flopped in the forward berth and fell asleep.

At around midnight the thunder woke me up and some rain started coming through the hatch. Closing that I laid back down, smugly thinking about how secure I was. Let it rain or hail!

The lightning and thunder increased and suddenly winds started buffeting the boat. Then I heard banging, shrieking, creaks and groans. This was followed by some up and down sensations, and then I heard a most strange sound, that of gurgling under the hull. I had sailed enough to recognize that sound. It meant water was moving under the hull. But how could it be?

I need to stop here and make the reader privy to some facts. The slips at Hell Creek Marina were parallel to the shore line reached by short walk ways from the main dock. The slip I was in was by itself with the bows facing the shoreline. Mine was the smallest boat with six others aroiund 36 feet in length with twin screws.

The geology of the marina was that it was nestled along rather steep hills that provided protection from most storms coming from the west. A campground was located further up the arm on the same side. To the east of the marina the arm reached about a half mile to the opposite side.

Scrambling out of the berth, I stood up and looked around. There were lights along the shore line that appeared to be moving from right to left. But I knew there was only one road there. The rain was coming down in torrents and the wind howled. Suddenly I realized the lights weren't moving. The slip was! The slip had blown off the shoreling and was traveling backwards.

Now I did some foolish things and wasted time. In retrospect that became clear. I turned on the VHF and channel 12 and broadcast a May Day alert. It must have sounded comical. " Bridge Bay Marina, this is the Far West II calling. My slip has blown off the shore line." Of course no one was at the marina.

Next, I turned on the radar and warmed that up. The opposite shore seemed a good distance off. Plenty of time to figure out what to do.
Wrong. The rain and wind was so strong that I couldn't function outside and see a thing until lightning occurred creating a surrealistic scene.

I decided to abandon the slip, start the engine and back out and bob around uintil the storm passed. But I made a mistake in trying to preserve my lines by untying them. Why? Another short story.

A boating friend of mine had used the boat during my absence to Oregon and had enough half hitches on the bow, mid, and aft line cletes to start a braided rug. I fiddled with those lines and then decided to cut them clean.

I got the engine started (about the only intelligent thing I did) I then cut the mid and aft lines first, tearing up both knees because the dock was buckling up and down and nails,( no screws had been used)and raised enough as I scrambed on my knees gouging me. I couldn't stand on the dock because the heaving and the wind kept knocking me down.

Of course the boat swung sideways like a pendulum now, and I had to time my boarding with a long step to the gunwale. I slipped and bent my recently repaired knee to new angles, but oh well, I'm aboard.

I crawled forward, carefully opened the hatch (the rain poured in) and cut the bow line to the dock clete. Sitting lookng backwards through the cabin door, I jerked the Honda into reverse and started to back out when the lightning flashed showing to my horror I was at the opposite shore line without enough time or space to back out and get away from the train wreck.

The shore line was essentially a very steep cliff about 30 feet high made up of clay and sandstone.

The slip and all the boats came into a sudden stop at the water's edge. But I now had another problem. The waves started to come over the dock pushing the boats backwards. I had managed to stop the engine and raise it so it hit the clay bank without damage, but the boat was now loose. It took some time to find new ropes to secure the bow and sides, and while I was doing that the wind ceased and the waves rhythmically
washed over the dock.

I surveyed the slip and noticed that all the boats were still tied to it with minimal apparent damage. It was very dark and surprisingly warm so I decided to go on shore, which I did. But another and shorter storm with lightning changed my mind, and I quiickly fell asleep, exhausted and in pain. (to be continued later)
 
Whoa! This reads like the old Saturday afternoon serials at the movin' picture theater! I can't wait for the next chapter to see if you survived it, John! :shock:
 
Well I've heard the ending to this :smileo and many more and ain't giving anything away except I've been around him now enough to believe his stories even if they are sometimes stranger than fiction as its been stated the truth can be. A day on the dock, water or around the campfire shared with John can be counted on to be a memorable and enjoyable experience.
 
"The Night All Hell Broke Loose at Hell Creek Marina - Part 2" I should have given this story a title before I began it - better late than never.

I need to warn in advance that this story has more turns in it than a rural Montana road following section lines.

It was now 29 August, 1997, the morning following the big storm. The sun had arisen to a mill pond scene. I crawled out of the forward berth with some difficulty and stepped into the cockpit. My knee was badly swollen, and the surgical slits had opened oozing blood. It really did throb, but all I had was some aspirin. As I suspected, no one else but me had the pleasure of the trip across the arm.

Turning on the VHF, I hailed the marina to no avail. Looking through my binoculars I could see no activity at the marina.

I then turned on the Wallas to boil some coffee and water for instant oatmeal and decided to check out the slip while the water was getting hot. As I limped along the walkway dodging the nails, I could not help but see the beauty that unfolded before me. The water shimmered from the just rising sun behind me, and everything was dead calm. No breeze at all. Just a few ducks and geese swimming along the shore line.

None of the boats appeared damaged, i.e., above the water line. The Far West II had some major dings from being slammed into the slip and the
protruding nails. Ironically, had I not untied, the boat would have been unscathed.

As I moved along the front of the slip, I noticed three ropes, one at each corner and one in the center trailing off into the lake. Curious, I began to retrieve one and found some resistance like a big snag. What turned up was a metal fence pole five feet long at the end used to anchor the slip to the shoreline. The others had the same kind of metal fence pole.

Suddenly, I started to become very angry, in fact I was really "pissed off" when I realized the incompetence of the marina owner. I apologize for using vulgar language in this story, but a really secure slip would not have left the shoreline. That is how I felt.

By this time breakfast was ready, and I ate wondering how I managed to get hooked up with the bailing wire outfit. Calls to the marina produced no response.

Some time went by and a lone fishing skiff came trolling along the shoreline. I hailed the fisherman and he swung by. I didn't realize what I looked like - shiipwrecked for sure with blood streaks going down my left shin. I had been wearing shorts through this whole adventure.

He turned off his motor and glided to the slip. His first words were "What are you doing here?" My response was really sarcastic and unnecessary because I was in a foul mood, I said, "I'm starting a new marina over here," and then I quickly added what had happened. He took it in good hiumor and then told me that some campers had experienced damage to their trailers and tents during the storm.

As we talked I suddently asked him. "Would you do me a favor and go over to the marina office and tell them to turn on their radio and also to look for a missing slip." He said "Sure," and headed across the arm.

By chance I had a camera aboard with seven frames unexposed. So using a paddle for support I slid off the end of the slip into about three feet of water and struggled ashore. I took a few pictures at the water level and then decided to climb the bank and get above the cliffs for some down shots. Getting there was not easy but I was determined to get some pictures for posterity if not for law suits. I was still in a very nasty mood.

That accomplished, I staggered back to the slip while my good samaritan was closing in on the marina. I turned on the VHF and watched through binoculars as he reached the main dock, climbed the stairs and went into the marina office. After a short period a woman rushed out and frantically went to and fro. Yes, the slip was gone. A few minutes later this sweet voice came on the radio, and she said, "Hello, this is Hell Creek Marina. How can I help you." Still in my sarcastic mood I said, "This is the skipper of the Far West II. I want to congratuate you folks for your outstanding pre-Labor Day fireworks."

Realizing that she didn't deserve the brunt of my angst, I quickly explained what happened. The conversation went something like this. "Are you the owner? No, the owner lives near Jordan. Would you call him and tell him what had happened? I can't because our phones aren't working. Well drive to town (25 miles) away and tell him. But I'm the only one here. But I'm the only one trapped out here on the east shore of the arm." After a few more exchanges (all civil) she agreed to that.

To be continued in part 3
 
John-

What a story (so far)!

I didn't think a Retired School Superintendent (a job which has a reputation for being occupied for persons who are compulsive moderates for survival reasons) could possibly get into so much trouble!

Ok, I'm patiently waiting for Part 3, but there's no rush, since it seems probable that you'll survive the next episode!

Joe. :lol: :thup
 
The Night All Hell Broke Loose at Hell Creek Marina - part 3

Time for this not so short, short story to end.

As I awaited my rescue, I had time to enter some terse comments in my log book and contemplate my fate. Besides getting the slip pulled off the shoreline, I had another problem. This, after all in Montana was not a 911. It was an inconvenience. But it really screwed up my weekend plans.

The plan was for me to arrive in Billings on August 28, which I did. I was then going to haul the boat out on August 29, a Friday, and make a 250 trip west to Great Falls where my grandson lived waiting to go boating and fishing. We were going to leave on Saturday morning for the Gates of the Mountains on the Missouri River.

But I was stuck incommunicado on a slip which suffered from an acute case of mis-direction. There was no phone service and of course no cell service. I couldn't call my daughter and family until I reached Jordan, which was really an indeterminate time from where I was trapped. Had I had a chain saw, the dock would have had major remodelling done. But I had to wait.

Several hours after the owner was contacted, out he came with a pontoon boat sporting a 70HP Mercury engine. After a brief exchange of comments, which in no uncertain way left him fully comprehending I was really pissed off, he announced that he would tow the slip and boats across to the original mooring area. I told him it was useless and that he needed more and bigger boats. But displaying typical Montana bravado, he gave it a try. Nothing moved. He didn't seem to understand that the drive units of the bigger boats had sucked down into the mud bottom.
That was the problem, not the slip which was floating free.

After several more futile attempts he said he needed to get more boats because this was Labor Day weekend coming up and the boat owners were coming expecting of course to find their boats ready to go. You can understand at that time how sympathetic I was to this news. To the west the ominous thunder heads were building, promising another evening thunder storm. I said oh no, we have got to get off this lee shore.

Another two hour wait went by before a small armada of boats of every description came over to hook on the slip. I quit counting after 15. It was one tangled mess to behold. Again after several futile attempts, it was decided to put as many men who were there to stand on the bows and jump up and down. Boat by boat they did this, and eventually all the stuck boats broke loose.

The owner was of course ecstatic and noticing that I was starting my engine stated that I was to stay tied until the slip returned to the west shore. My reply was to the effect that he could take his statement and place it where the sun didn't shine.

I backed away from the slip and put the Far West II and Honda 90 at 6000 rpm. Getting the pickup and trailer backed down the ramp, I loaded quickly and was about to leave when I remembered I had to pay for my moorage.

The slip was now arriving so I waited for the owner. My thought was that he would waive my rental fee, but when I asked him (should have known better) what I owed, he replied the full amount. I wanted to say you will hear from my lawyer, but by this time I wanted to put some distance between me and Hell Creek marina. So I paid him and left.

This was now late afternoon and I had over 250 miles to get to Great Falls. I called from Jordan but no answer. Daughter and family had gone out to eat. I managed to reach them enroute but didn't arrive at Great Falls before eleven p.m. thoroughly exhausted and contemplating my sins.

Epilogue:

We cancelled the trip to Gates of the Mountains.

I took the Far West II to the factory in Kent where they took out every scratch and gouge - cost $600.

My pictures turned out beautifully - real evidence of what took place

The Hell Creek marina offices burned down a few years later - cause unknown.

Since then the Montana Fish & Game has reconstructed the camp grounds including hot water showers

Fort Peck has been so low that Hell Creek ramps have had to move down the arm a half mile.

I have heard rumors of drive problems of the boats involved

The ownership of Hell Creek marina has changed

John aka Yellowstone
 
An addendum to the epilogue.

The weather bureau on Aug. 28, 1997, reported a micro burst in the Hell Creek Marina vicinity with winds reaching 130 mph.
 
What a tale, John - great "telling." Thanks for sharing with all of us. Now, dare I ask if you would like to share with us about Lake Sakakawea? - "best launch sites, places to see, and some of his experiences on the lake." Last time we asked this, about Ft. Peck, what a treat you gave us all.

PS - El says, "Let's have a peanut m&m party when we meet on Yellowstone."
 
El and Bill - I can't comment on Lake Sakakawea. Haven't been there. It is suppose to have more water than Fort Peck Lake.

El , if my memory is accurate, it was "jumbo" peanut M&Ms that we munched on trying to stay warm at Eagle Bay two summers ago. It is going on the list. Glad you enjoyed my story. Just ignore the lack of agreement between subject & verb in a few sentences. This is recreational writing for me.

I'm thinking about putting together a book describing canoe adventures on Yellowstone and Shoshone Lakes over the past half century. It would include tragic and near tragic episodes, grizzly bear encounters, terrific fishing, competent and not so competent back country rangers, swampings, canoe sailing, and stranger than fiction incidents.
See you in either Yellowstone or Big Horn Canyon.
John
 
John, astounding story! It would make a great film, but I might change the ending. The hero in my film would not PAY for this adventure courtesy of the owner's negligence, he would PAY BACK!!!! Who do you see playing you?
 
Pat - Make a movie? No gore and the good guy gets shafted in the end. Hollywood wouldn't be interested. But if they were, I would pick Jack Palance.

Lloyds - Clint Eastwood? Dirty Harry? I am 6'3" and have a Ruger double action 44 magum revolver. That's where any similarity ends.

Bob - Please share the story with your grandchildren but edit out "pissed off" and substitute "ticked off."

Roger - The fishing is better in Yellowstone Lake than out on the coast and a whole lot closer to Idaho. We missed you last summer. At last report the ice is still on.

Jay - Why don't you tell the story of the famous lady cowgirl relation of yours?

Joe - Some truth to the compulsive moderate superintendent. Why?
Caught between two extremes - teacher unions and school boards.
But let us not turn this into a political thing. I need your guidance on how to get my pictures of the stranded slip on this web site.

John
 
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