Bearing Buddies / Bearings Redux

Pat Anderson":2iu76tvc said:
If so, to what spec? !
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I generally torque my steel wheels to 100 ft/lbs and re-check after 50 or so miles of driving. Aluminum/alloy wheels I torque less; 80-90.
 
BrentB":2y8fcv64 said:
Oh

I need the big picture

2 axle or one axle trailer?

2 wheel or 4 wheel brakes?
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Pat's trailer;

2 axle
4 wheel disc
surge
 
ok thanks

except one caliper has no hydraulic hose !

Whats up with that?
 
Both had hoses. Pic is just the outer half of the two calipers Pat disassembled. I think this was just one side of the trailer.
 
BrentB":3apyya6o said:
Oh

I need the big picture
.
2 axle or one axle trailer?

[
2 wheel or 4 wheel brakes?
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It is a King Saltwater trailer for a CD25.

Double axle.
4 wheel brakes.
 
localboy":2shve3n2 said:
The pads are probably binding. There is a caliper piston that pushes the pad (when pushed by the fluid), thus tightening the brake pads on the rotor. Pull the inner pad, push the piston in, re-install the pad. Sometimes a C clamp makes pushing the piston easier.
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I read similar advice when I Googled "wheels won't turn after installing disk brakes." Can I pull the inner pad without taking everything apart again? Where is the piston and what does it look like?
 
journey on":29c5ty5j said:
On the calipers, try pushing the pistons back into the caliper. I use a large socket and a suitable C-clamp.

BTW, I assume the rotor runs free without the caliper installed.

Boris
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Correct, the hub/rotor (integral unit on Kodiak brakes) turned freely without the brakes being installed. I will look and see if I figure out where the "piston" is and see if I can push it in. Thanks!
 
localboy":3mzwaycj said:
Both had hoses. Pic is just the outer half of the two calipers Pat disassembled. I think this was just one side of the trailer.
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Correct, I only have done the two wheels on the right side of the trailer. I am planning on pulling the hubs on the other side this afternoon, whether or not I figure out the brake issue today. Then I can get those hubs in to the trailer shop. And for sure I will NOT disassemble the calipers on the left side when I remove the brakes!
 
However this turns out, I just want to say a big "Thank you" to everyone who has responded. What a terrific resource C-Brats is!
 
https://www.quora.com/How-do-you-fix-squeaky-brakes

The piston will be in the center of the rear caliper, the one the hose attaches to. See the page. It's just held by hydraulic fluid so you can push it back into the caliper with a C clamp. Caliper must be removed and the inner brake pad pulled out.
 
OK, the thingee just above the hydraulic hose connection is the only thing on the inner side that even remotely looks like it could be pushed in...is it the piston? And if it is, and I get a large enough C-clamp, do I have to remove the inside pad? How would I do that without taking everything apart again? Thanks!

On edit - it seems that things is the bleeder screw and not the piston? I sure an not seeing anything that looks like this picture, but maybe when I pull the caliper it will jump up and smack me in the face!

Piston_Maybe.jpg
 
localboy":1kjx1jn4 said:
https://www.quora.com/How-do-you-fix-squeaky-brakes

The piston will be in the center of the rear caliper, the one the hose attaches to. See the page. It's just held by hydraulic fluid so you can push it back into the caliper with a C clamp. Caliper must be removed and the inner brake pad pulled out.
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Thanks, Mark, seems like you were reading my mind! See my photo. I will have to pull the caliper but this time NOT disassemble it! Will it then be obvious how to remove the inner brake pad? Off to buy a 4" C-clamp, largest I have is 3".

It may seem ridiculous that I will have lived 70 years in about two weeks and never dealt with disk (disc?) brakes, but this time I am determined to figure it out one way or another!
 
you are correct. That "thingy" is the bleeder nipple. Rubber cap protects it and keeps junk out. To bleed the system you'd put a hose on it and loosen it as a helper pushed fluid thru from the front OR attaché a suction unit to it, loosen it and pull fluid thru. Since you did not break the seal and allow air into the system, you don't have to worry about bleeding.
 
Pad is usually just held in by either springs or tabs; it just sort of 'snaps' into the caliper. Pad rear will ride on the piston and the piston will be a circular steel "thingy" about 2"-3" across, in the center. Sometimes not easy to push back in, but the C clamp will do it. Center the clamp and use a socket to make a spacer if need be.

Usually, they will push in until flush with the caliper body. Then re-install pad and it should give you enough clearance that the rotor will now spin pretty freely. You may still hear some minor metal/metal rubbing but that is normal. NOT binding up, however.
 
This is NOT going well! I pulled the whole caliper off, then popped the pad out of where it was seated, but there are three springy thingees on the rear of the pad, and there is simply no clearance between the part with the piston and the front pad to pull the pad out. I possibly could bend the springy thingees but I don't think I should do that as it would probably destroy their functionality. It looks to me as though I have to split the caliper again to remove that pad. I will see if I can get a decent picture, but color me frustrated to the max right now, and I am just running out of steam...and confidence!

On edit - couldn't get a good picture, and it is time for me to call it a wrap for today. At it again tomorrow.
 
Just think how easier the other side will seem! :wink:

In all seriousness, post a pic. It's probably springs that hold the pads that are in the way...probably. They are designed to flex and keep everything in place. Don't bend them. Just unscrew to two bolts and take the caliper apart. Once you get the piston pushed in and the pad re-installed, it will all go together. You've already done the other part of installing the rotor etc.
 
Picture tomorrow! It is Happy Hour in Birch Bay!
 
Good call. When my cars really piss me off...I walk away, close the garage door and turn the light off...
 
Pat there are a lot of videos up on YouTube that you can watch to get an idea. Etrailer.com has a lot also. Looks like your having fun anyway.
 
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