Wood Shop

B

bshillam

Member
I am going to be putting together a shop finally. I have wanted to work with wood for a long time and have been very pleased with what I have done thus far. Timing is allowing me to set up a wood working shop. Knowing there is moreexperience and knowledge out here I'd love to hear from some that have more experience in this area. Things I am looking at getting right away,
Table Saw
Band Saw
Dust collection
Probably a routing table
What other equipment is a must/very useful? What brands/models have you enjoyed working with?
I am also interested in the hand tools you use most often whether powered or classic. I will have electrician wire for the shop so 110/220 won't be an issue.
Thoughts?
 
Might also need Jointer and planer. The router table can be placed in the extension of the table saw. A lot of good times spent in the shop. The C-Dory finds time in there also.

IMG_1248.sized.jpg
 
How much space do you have to work with?
There is no such thing as "too large of a shop"-- most of us have limited shop space so, combination machines and machines on wheels can make the most of smaller areas.

Table saw is #1. Contractor saw (open stand) or cabinet saw (Unisaw or equiv.) if you have the space and funds. A router table can be added to either or both wings.

Add a chop saw with an in-feed and out-feed supports along one wall.

Dust collection is more than a luxury. Your health depends on it, especially with woods like cedar and redwood. Go for a pleated cartridge filter with a 1 micron rating. Hard-pipe a collection system on the wall or ceiling with T-Y's leading to blast gates near each machine.

An air compressor will be essential for fasteners.

My next must-haves would be a thickness planer and a jointer, as I enjoy salvaging used lumber for projects. (free!)

I would place a bandsaw lower on the list of essential machines, though this is arguable.

As far as brand choices, Grizzly, Shop Fox, Woodtec, Jet and other Taiwanese brands represent a reasonable quality to cost ratio. Harbor Freight less so.

One final comment. If you can find some used commercial equipment that is 3-phase, do not let that stop you from buying it.

I just set-up a belt grinder with a 2HP 3-phase motor fed from a VFD. (Variable Frequency Drive) A VFD takes 120 or 240 volt single phase power-in, and converts it to variable frequency 240 volt 3-phase out. It give you speed control from 1 to 200 Hertz at full torque with programmable ramp-up and ramp-down curves (soft-start), and many other features. The 2HP VFD cost me $160. which is about the same as the contactor/motor starter that it replaced. The 1/2 HP unit is about $120. They are reasonable up to 5HP.

VFD's would be appropriate for any machines that do not have other electronic controls, like compressors, saws and the like.
 
The saw you want it a Saw Stop which is the absolutely safest saw in the industry.

http://www.sawstop.com/

Be sure to click on the “hot dog demo” video, amazing.

Also see “How it works” etc.

Regards,

Ron Fisher
 
We have also had joiner/planer, drill press is high on the priority (at the top really), The band saw if you are doing re sawing, or doing ribs etc for boats. At one time I had a 14" band saw when we were serious boat builders.

Large table saw 10" blade at least--not small top--with extensions and rollers which will handle a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood.

Router, power planer, hand planes from small block plane up to full size carpenters plane. Grinder, combo used as wire wheel, cut off wheel etc.
Stand grinder/buffer--I keep coarse and fine wheels on mine. I also use a radial arm saw a fair amount, and felt the area devoted to a full size one is worth it. Good saber saw, lots of Dremel tools and accessories, Roto Zip tool. Fein saw or equivalent.

Good chisels, carving tools--Japenese or German steel, good clamps, Leather mallet for chisels, Good sharpening system. I have several, down to an old barber's two sided strop for fine edges.

You might also consider a full wood working bench, with several types of vises, and stops on the table, with an end vise. I found this very useful--but for all of this you need a good sized building. I gave all of my larger tools to a friend when I moved--(kept the radial arm, drill press, and hand power tools--when I need the larger tools I use them in his large shop)
 
I gave most of my sawdust making tools (cannot in good conscience call myself a woodworker) to my son. I kept the Grizzly bandsaw and use it most I also kept a good drill press and find it handy. A good miterbox, good chisels and good handplanes are important as is a good sharpening system. Veritas/Lee Valley tools is a good source for those and good quality squares. A good bench is important and is something you can make yourself, Fine Woodworking magazine has had a number of excellent articles on making a bench. Make sure you put a woodworking vise on the bench, another thing I use all the time.
 
Lots of good advice so far. Unless you are going to strictly deal in sheet goods a jointer is a must have. Also good workworking bench with vise and bench dogs. Nice and heavy with a true surface.

95% of my tools are Delta or Porter Cable. In my opinion, good stuff at reasonable prices. Cheap power tools lead to less than optimal results and can get you hurt. I had a craftsman router that would let the bits slowly move until it eventually spit them out. Fun time in a router table.

Come up with a good way to store materials, sheet goods and board stock.

Put a hardwood cleat around the perimeter of your shop and hang your newly build cabinets from it. Easy to hang by yourself and you can move them as your needs grow/change.

Put everything you can on mobile bases.

Don't skimp on the safety devices, wear glasses, ear plugs and build proper push sticks.

Good luck and have fun,
Dave
 
The type of equipment and tools really depend upon the kind of work you want to do. Most people buy too much stuff and concentrate on the shop stuff and not on the work. For example a shop focused on Windsor chairs is likely to only need a small spindle lathe, a bench, and some good hand tools. Case goods will need a table saw, jointer, planer and a lathe. A Cabinet shop needs lots of open room and a table saw with a panel attachment. If you want to turn bowls you need a very heavy lathe. If you are a sign carver all you need is a bench and hand tools. Routers have about replaced shapers everywhere and you can never have too many routers.

If you want a general shop you will want a 3 hp or bigger table saw, a 12' band saw, an 8" jointer, a spindle lathe, a 15 or 20 '" planer, a heavy bench, and good quality hand tools. More importantly and even before tools is to go and work with someone who knows about the tools, safety, technique, design etc.

I teach wood working to lots of retired people and to a person they always say " I wish I had talked to you or someone like you before I started buying things" And those that have been injured often with missing parts say " I wish someone had shown me how to avoid that".

One last thing. Using any table saw is like riding a motorcycle. You better really know what you are doing and you better have your mind focused or you are going to hurt like hell! I have taught practical skills to hundreds of woodworkers some with considerable experience and never had an injured person on the table saw. But that tool will kill you and take parts off in a heart beat.
 
I would agree on the table saw safety concerns. The Saw Stop is a real advance in table saw safety, and it fares very well in table saw showdowns.

As an aside, the rest of the table saw industry is having concerns with injury litigation. It seems that because a technology exists to prevent an injury, any company that produces a saw that causes an injury without that patented technology must be liable for the injury.

The industry is betting on the riving knife. It's that little finger that sticks up behind the blade that will reduce the chance of kick-back by keeping the cut wood from pinching the blade.

It will be interesting to see what the lawyers do with this one.
 
My solution (which in inherited without direct solicitation), was to make a friend out of the High School Wood shop Teacher at the school where I taught Physics and Chemistry.

My lifelong friend and sailing buddy was and art teacher and had an industrial arts minor. The wood shop teacher also became our good friend. After a few sessions, he allowed me to have a key to the wood shop. Thus, I had access to a better shop than I could ever afford, and advice/instruction from my best friends.

After I switched schools, I had to give the key up, but signed up for the night school class and did my sawdust manufacturing on Thursday nights.

Mostly made projects for sailboats, including centerboards, rudders, tillers, masts, cabinetry, etc.

A night school class would give you access to machines that you can't afford or don't have the room for, like a 24 inch or larger planer.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I have no comments on a wood shop (do you believe that?)

However, Jody Kidd, you have the cleanest, neatest shop I've ever seen. I'm really envious. Actually, I was going to post a picture of the opposite extreme (my shop) but then, why embarrass myself.

Jody, kudos, I'm impressed. The lighting, everything in it's place, space to work AND a clean shiny floor.

Boris
 
I have a problem like Boris

By the time I pull all the tools out of the corner of the garage and get set up it's lunch time, and then it takes at least an hours to put it all away and the wife gets home and says I want the car in the garage, so much for shop time!
 
journey on":fbhgr01m said:
I have no comments on a wood shop (do you believe that?)

However, Jody Kidd, you have the cleanest, neatest shop I've ever seen. I'm really envious. Actually, I was going to post a picture of the opposite extreme (my shop) but then, why embarrass myself.

Jody, kudos, I'm impressed. The lighting, everything in it's place, space to work AND a clean shiny floor.

Boris
Click to expand...

Thanks Boris for the compliment.

I'd be lying if I said it was all ways clean like that. I have a particular problem with piling things on top of the work bench until you can't see bottom.
 
Don, when Judy and I got married, we built a house and when it was finished she said "now I can put the car into the garage", just like that. We had a short but brief discussion when I explained that garages are meant for bikes and tools. Cars are meant to sit outside. Unless you're working on them.

So far so good. However, I'm still looking for a clean shop.

Boris

PS; you know, it may seem silly to discuss workspaces, but I started out working on (old) cars on a ranch, finally graduated to my own house with a barn out back which I thought was heaven, especially when it rained, though the driveway was dirt and engine changes had to be made in the dry season. Yeah, good shops are important to me. Especially as I'm getting older.
 
Two words........Craig's List..... amazing the deals you can find...I paid $50 for my band saw....$60 for my drill press...older Sears stuff but works well and you can easily get parts if needed....my lathe cost me a whole $125

I also find my victoms there....old furniture made of prime woods for really low prices....easy to recut and use as bits and pieces....only way I can keep my tug maintained...


Joel
SEA3PO
 
One thing you can always rely on here: beaucoup of well-intentioned advice.

I've had a woodshop all my life and I wouldn't have much use now for my first one, or my second one for that matter. The point is, the design, set-up and flow of a woodshop (as well as the all-important storage of raw materials and semi-finished projects) varies from project to project. I would never buy any piece of equipment until I needed it and only after consulting with experts concerning the specific projects I needed it for.

Careful use of Craigslist can yield some treasures unless money is not an object.

Good luck and take your time.

Chuck
 
I too have had a woodshop all my life. One thing I've learned over the years is that both good and poor quality tools come at a price, but you only come to regret what you pay for the poor quality ones. Make your choices relative to your goals as a woodworker. If you want to ultimately make fine furniture, you'll soon become dissatisfied with a contractor-type tablesaw or a bench-top planer.

Magazines like Fine Woodworking, Woodsmith etc. provide helpful reviews on power and hand tools that can help you make your choices. Then do your price shopping and be patient if searching for used.

In addition to the tools that others have mentioned, here are some that I tend to use a lot in my shop:

- cordless drill with phillips & square-drive drivers
- block plane
- japanese-style hand saw
- wood chisels

I'd recommend building your own router table, because there are lots of good plans available, and it will be a chance to work on some basic woodworking skills.

Fine Woodworking also has a great website with lots of video instruction if you're looking for how-to information.

And when you start to acquire tools, get out into your shop and make stuff or just practice techniques. Woodworking is very satisfying and time will fly when you're in your workshop.

jd
 
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