Window screens for 1999 22?

BigSwede

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Joined
Oct 26, 2023
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C Dory Year
2008
C Dory Model
23 Venture
Vessel Name
Coddiwomple
My "new" 1999 22 does not have window screens. The sliding side windows appear to have an extra track on the inside that might accommodate a screen, although I'm not sure how you would operate the sliding glass on the outside of the screen.

I have searched and read about some of the DIY ideas, but I'm wondering if there ever was a factory setup for screens?
 
Good luck finding any screens. My 25 was missing the screens from the port aft window and the head window. I tried getting them from NMI, since they make the boats, but no luck. They suggested Sea Glaze the maker of the window. No luck there either. I finally just fabricated my own window screens using PVC board to make a frame. The problem with finding any commercial provider or screen shop, is that these screens are not square of with square corners. And nobody wants or can make the rounded corners...
 
Thanks - I sent an inquiry to Advantec (SeaGlaze) on the advice of another member, so we'll see if anything comes of that.

I wonder if a guy could make a screen frame out of heavy wire, like the wire they use to hang suspended tile ceilings in commercial buildings?
 
BigSwede":30jwp0j6 said:
Thanks - I sent an inquiry to Advantec (SeaGlaze) on the advice of another member, so we'll see if anything comes of that.

I wonder if a guy could make a screen frame out of heavy wire, like the wire they use to hang suspended tile ceilings in commercial buildings?

Don't think that would last. It works well enough in buildings because it is pretty much only in tension.
 
I have a few pieces of ceiling wire that I use to hang brake calipers when working on my truck, seems like it might be stiff enough to hold its shape, if handled gently. Maybe.
 
I think your best bet for making screens is to fabricate a frame out of wood or plastic. You can find or plane something down to the appropriate thickness. Cut out the center then to install the screen. I then routed a groove all the way around for the screen retainer to be pressed into.
 
Listen to Colby.

I don't, but many years of experience here have shown that I should have.

Good luck!

John
 
Thanks - I sent an inquiry to Advantec (SeaGlaze) on the advice of another member, so we'll see if anything comes of that.

I wonder if a guy could make a screen frame out of heavy wire, like the wire they use to hang suspended tile ceilings in commercial buildings?
Did your inquiry to Advantec get you any answers? we have a 2008 cruiser and are looking for screens as well. We live in Canada.
 
I buy "no see-em" fine net from an army surplus store. It was fabricated for a tent about 8x 10 feet ??, I have made wintow screen for at least 4 C Dorys and given away a fair amount of this insect screen. I glue velcro along the edge of the screen, and the mating vecro on the window frame inside, or on the inner hull if necessary. We run red low level lights, which tend to help preserve your night vision and the bugs are not attracted as much as with the white lights.
 
I also have a '99 22 and I've purchased windows and window parts from the C-Dory window supplier, Advantec Marine in Chilliwack, B.C., where Diamond Sea Glaze windows are manufactured.
The best contact there is Buffy Light, Office: 1-604-607-0091 EXT 3917, Cell: 1 -604-340-9639, Email:Blight@advantecmarine.com.
The sliding screen insert is a bear to get in and out, requiring a screwdriver to temporarily bend it and lever it over and into the channel. I've attached a diagram and parts list for the slider window in your boat. Heads up, be sure to get a quote on shipping as that may cost more than the sliding screen insert itself. No doubt Bob's solution will be cheaper.
 

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My "new" 1999 22 does not have window screens. The sliding side windows appear to have an extra track on the inside that might accommodate a screen, although I'm not sure how you would operate the sliding glass on the outside of the screen.

I have searched and read about some of the DIY ideas, but I'm wondering if there ever was a factory setup for screens?

The inside track accommodates a sliding screen window so that it can be pushed to the back in order to open the glass window. The screen frame needs to be made EXACTLY the height of the window frame opening + the depth of the upper track -1/16". That way you can install the screen by pushing it up into the upper track and then sliding a piece of flat nylon stock, the width of the track, an inch or two shorter than the full length of the window track and about 1/8 to 3/16 thickness (height) in the track underneath the screen to keep it from falling out while letting it slide.
 
Screen corners can be found from RV parts distributors like the 2.5" corners...

 
I do a quick and dirty variation of what Bob does. I buy adhesive backed Velcro, but only use the "hook" side. Cut the 3/4" wide hook side in half and place the skinny strips strategically around the inside window frame. It doesn't need to be a complete line all the way around. Four or five 2-inch pieces should do it. That will grab the no-see-um netting. Stick on the netting and then trim to the window size, leaving yourself an inch around the edges. When you remove it, it may leave little snags (some of us may remember "runs" in nylon stockings). Doesn't hurt the runnin. Those are your marker spots for attaching the next time.

Takes 10 minutes to make a window covering. Last 10 years. Cheap to replace. Keeps out the most blood-thirsty bugs.

I've also found a couple little stainless steel insect coil holders to be handy. Since the boat usually swings with the wind, they can keep bugs downwind from sneaking up. Kept the swarms away at Lake Ozette.
 
Hi everyone,

As PGC said above, the screens are an absolute pain in the butt to get out of the screen track after you've removed the nylon slide insert, from the track underneath the bottom screen frame. I don't know why diamond Sea Glaze builds them like this as most boat windows like this have a thicker insert that when you pull it out, the screen drops to the bottom of the track and the upper screen frame is now 1/16 to an 1/8 below the upper window frame, allowing the screen to easily be removed. Now I'm personally apposed to prying with screwdrivers cause it's too easy to damage the screen frame or powder coating on the aluminum. So after playing with it a bit I found that by unscrewing the top and bottom rows of screws holding the window in makes it just slightly easier. Now, after removing the nylon spacer, then prying with a broader, very stiff, Quinn 2" putty knife from Harbor freight, I was able to remove the screen with absolutely no scratches! I found it easiest to start at the stern end of the screen for both removal and insertion. I made a sloppy video if anyone feels better seeing it done.

As far as the type of screen, don't make the same mistake that I made, I bought the beautiful black stainless steel screening that they sold at Lowes. It's a very fine mess that really doesn't interfere with your vision and looks just gorgeous! Unfortunatly, unlike fiberglass sceening, you can't cut the SS mesh flush to the frame with a razor knife. That means if you insert it into your window track it will scrape off the powder coating on the track very quickly and look like crap. The fiberglass mesh doesn't look nearly as sharp, but it's easy to work with, easy to trim and doesn't oxidize like aluminum screening so that would be my recommendation. JMHO...

Probably don't need to, but for any people that like visuals, copy and paste the link into a browser, be sure to add https: to the begining of the link. I removed it because I didn't want the video showing up on this page...

//youtu.be/buZOOh9yL9A
 
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Screen corners can be found from RV parts distributors like the 2.5" corners...

After purchasing 26 years ago, I found that the sliding screens were missing. I tried to purchase them through 3 Rivers Marine and Diamond Seaglaze, with no luck. I ended up buying the frame and corner pieces on line and buying the screen at my local hardware store. The corners are plastic and all angles were not exact, so I made a simple jig and heated the plastic corners, to form angles to match the corners.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php
 
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