Hi everyone,
As PGC said above, the screens are an absolute pain in the butt to get out of the screen track after you've removed the nylon slide insert, from the track underneath the bottom screen frame. I don't know why diamond Sea Glaze builds them like this as most boat windows like this have a thicker insert that when you pull it out, the screen drops to the bottom of the track and the upper screen frame is now 1/16 to an 1/8 below the upper window frame, allowing the screen to easily be removed. Now I'm personally apposed to prying with screwdrivers cause it's too easy to damage the screen frame or powder coating on the aluminum. So after playing with it a bit I found that by unscrewing the top and bottom rows of screws holding the window in makes it just slightly easier. Now, after removing the nylon spacer, then prying with a broader, very stiff, Quinn 2" putty knife from Harbor freight, I was able to remove the screen with absolutely no scratches! I found it easiest to start at the stern end of the screen for both removal and insertion. I made a sloppy video if anyone feels better seeing it done.
As far as the type of screen, don't make the same mistake that I made, I bought the beautiful black stainless steel screening that they sold at Lowes. It's a very fine mess that really doesn't interfere with your vision and looks just gorgeous! Unfortunatly, unlike fiberglass sceening, you can't cut the SS mesh flush to the frame with a razor knife. That means if you insert it into your window track it will scrape off the powder coating on the track very quickly and look like crap. The fiberglass mesh doesn't look nearly as sharp, but it's easy to work with, easy to trim and doesn't oxidize like aluminum screening so that would be my recommendation. JMHO...
Probably don't need to, but for any people that like visuals, copy and paste the link into a browser, be sure to add https: to the begining of the link. I removed it because I didn't want the video showing up on this page...
//youtu.be/buZOOh9yL9A