Transom bilge pump discharge

H

homerjack

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C Dory Year
1988
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
Vessel Name
49er
What is the location of choice for discharge thru hull fitting for "sump" area pump on CD22s?
 
If you mean the sump at the aft end of the cockpit on the centerline, the bilge pump for that area pumps to an outlet on the port side of the boat below the port lazarette. This is next to the outlet for the live well (the port side of my boat has two outlets next to each other). See pictures below.

DSCF3489.sized.jpg

DSCF3469.sized.jpg
 
Yes exactly what I mean. On my older cruiser this would be a retrofit so just looking for best location before drilling. Nice pics, thanks.
 
I do not like it that low. With discharge low it makes water intrusion easier unless an upward loop is inline. Discharge pumps should not have checkvalves to prevent backflow
 
I'm with Digger. I prefer it higher up, and then would still make a bit of an upward loop if possible. Mine was already there when I bought the boat, and is on the starboard side, just below the rub rail and just ahead of the turn from topside to transom. There is room for an upward loop in the line (which comes in right astern in the starboard lazarette) and then it proceeds down to just above the fuel tanks and over to the center/transom sump mounted bilge pump.

One thing to be aware of is that if you have a boat with the "hull level" cockpit sole (i.e. before the cockpit sole/liner that came in around 2006-7 or so) then that mini sump is cored, so you may want to take that into account when you fasten your pump down.
 
I added a sump pump aft to our 22, and put the discharge up near the upper strip--just enough room above, to put a small loop.
 
When I added my stern bilge pump I just ran the discharge up & out through the boot with the rest of the control cables and over the edge of the splash well so no hole through the hull.
 
You could have the bilge pump dump into the splashwell. Mine has an drain at the back by the motor.
 
Moxieabs I like that plan. No more holes if I can help it.
 
mine exits right below the rub rail. I even cut the top of my through hull ffitting's flange off straight to put it right up against the rub rail.

I used an old tank vent hole that never got closed when the vents moved into the splashwell. I just had to make it a little wider. It's got a small service loop up to the top of the gunnel, but probably doesn't need it. But, the through-hull won't take on water there. The downside is that when the pump shuts off there's plenty of water to flood my sump again, so the boat doesn't ever get pumped out all the way. I keep a bailing sponge around for the last bit. I use a check valve near the bilge pump in the summer, so the extra water just stays in the hose, In the winter I have to remove the valve or the water will freeze in there.

Those low through-hull penetrations are pretty good at clearing all the water out without a bunch of backwash. A little bit of a liability if you lose a connection though.
 
Since you will need new hose, be sure to spend the extra money for the smooth-wall instead of the corrugated "smurf" tube. Even on a short run of 3-4 feet, it makes a difference of probably 40%. When my new setup went off for the first time, it spooked me to see water shooting out 5 feet from the through hull.

Mark
 
ssobol said:
If you mean the sump at the aft end of the cockpit on the centerline, the bilge pump for that area pumps to an outlet on the port side of the boat below the port lazarette. This is next to the outlet for the live well (the port side of my boat has two outlets next to each other). See pictures below.

View attachment 117101

View attachment 117102
Click to expand...
Hi. Do you ever have issues with water coming INTO the boat from that thru-hull? Do you have a high loop on the line? I'm adding a pump to the aft sump (first time; boat never had one) and am planning to repurpose the livewell drain thru-hull (since it's not used as a live well, and previously had batteries in it so there are screw penetrations and a 1.5-2" hole for the cables drilled right through the bottom). I'll use probably 3/4" line and deal with whatever reducer fitting is needed to mate with the thru-hull fitting. Thank you.
 
DaveInRI, That is exactly what I did on my 22 cruiser. I did attach the hose as high as I could then drop down to the live well tru-hull. I did not have any issues with water intrusion.
 
ssobol said:
You could have the bilge pump dump into the splashwell. Mine has an drain at the back by the motor.
Click to expand...
I like this idea. Does anyone see a problem with this? I’m turning my starboard lazarette into a propane locker and the drain for the propane locker has to be at least 20 inches from any other hull penetration. This would solve that problem for me.
 
Paul, what have you done with the electrical connections which are usually in the starboardlazarette? Is this just the bottle storage, or is there going to be a container and then hose run to the appliance inside the cabin? Heating or cooking or both? If a larger container, do you have a selenoid on/off switch controlled from the cabin, and sniffers in the bilge below the appliance?
 
thataway said:
Paul, what have you done with the electrical connections which are usually in the starboardlazarette? Is this just the bottle storage, or is there going to be a container and then hose run to the appliance inside the cabin? Heating or cooking or both? If a larger container, do you have a selenoid on/off switch controlled from the cabin, and sniffers in the bilge below the appliance?
Click to expand...
Good points Bob. This locker holds a 5 gallon horizontal propane tank to serve a heater and stove on the starboard side of the cabin. It meets all ABYC requirements for a propane locker (including a remotely controlled solenoid switch), hence the need to have the locker vent at least 20 inches from any other hull penetration. Wiring for transducers, electric trim tabs, bilge pump, and propane detector, as well as battery cables, rigging cables, and hydraulic steering hoses, are all routed under the propane locker, around the fuel tank fill tube and vent, where they join the two propane hoses and propane solenoid wiring, and all go into a length of 3 inch I.D. ABS pipe secured underneath the storage area on the starboard side of the cockpit. The pipe is removable and has a continuous 1” slot along one side to facilitate insertion of the cables and wires. The pipe slides into the aft end of a fiberglass sit box that replaces the starboard cockpit step and meets ABYC requirements for a battery box. It holds a size 31 AGM start battery in an ABYC approved tray, Class C fuse, current shunt, battery switch, and pos and neg buss bars, as well as storage for the shore power cable. Wires exit this box through an outlet at the forward end into the cabin.
To accommodate a 5 gallon horizontal propane tank, the opening to the lazarette was modified to be a little larger and an inch higher. The same modifications were made to the port lazarette so it can be used to store an additional propane tank, but it won’t be plumbed for propane hoses - it’s for storage only.
I’ve decided to route the bilge pump outlet to its normal location through the hull, and not into the splash well. The splash well doesn’t drain as fast as the bilge pump pumps, and if it’s plugged by debris, it doesn’t drain at all.
 
pcg said:
Good points Bob. This locker holds a 5 gallon horizontal propane tank to serve a heater and stove on the starboard side of the cabin. It meets all ABYC requirements for a propane locker (including a remotely controlled solenoid switch), hence the need to have the locker vent at least 20 inches from any other hull penetration. Wiring for transducers, electric trim tabs, bilge pump, and propane detector, as well as battery cables, rigging cables, and hydraulic steering hoses, are all routed under the propane locker, around the fuel tank fill tube and vent, where they join the two propane hoses and propane solenoid wiring, and all go into a length of 3 inch I.D. ABS pipe secured underneath the storage area on the starboard side of the cockpit. The pipe is removable and has a continuous 1” slot along one side to facilitate insertion of the cables and wires. The pipe slides into the aft end of a fiberglass sit box that replaces the starboard cockpit step and meets ABYC requirements for a battery box. It holds a size 31 AGM start battery in an ABYC approved tray, Class C fuse, current shunt, battery switch, and pos and neg buss bars, as well as storage for the shore power cable. Wires exit this box through an outlet at the forward end into the cabin.
To accommodate a 5 gallon horizontal propane tank, the opening to the lazarette was modified to be a little larger and an inch higher. The same modifications were made to the port lazarette so it can be used to store an additional propane tank, but it won’t be plumbed for propane hoses - it’s for storage only.
I’ve decided to route the bilge pump outlet to its normal location through the hull, and not into the splash well. The splash well doesn’t drain as fast as the bilge pump pumps, and if it’s plugged by debris, it doesn’t drain at all.
Click to expand...
Edit: “Class C fuse” should be “Class T fuse”.
 
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Paul, excellent description of a proper instulation! A model to be used by other C Brats! Thank you.
 
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