Trailer tires - I don't get it.

Marco Flamingo":hly50s7d said:
Sunbeam,

You must have an EZ Loader. I bought Tie Down stainless brakes instead of Kodiak because they will fit a 13" wheel.
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I have a Magic Tilt galvanized trailer. When I went to Kodiak discs, I didn't realize there was any problem with putting discs on 13" wheels, apparently because they had a model that would/did fit just fine. This was in 2012. My trailer came with (drum) brakes on one of the axles, and the other axle had the square brake mounting flanges already in place. So the brake part was easy, at least for the Kodiak discs I went with. I just wish there was a better selection of tires in D-range.
 
The nitrogen in tires makes sense mostly in airplanes, where you want to keep moisture out of the tires, as the plane goes from ambient temps at the runway, higher temps at take off and landing, as well as markedly lower temperatures at cruising altitudes in the 35,000 foot altitude.

The best way to treat your tires is to monitor the temperature and pressure, with devices such as pressure pro. (Read out in the truck--including truck tires, if you don't already have tire pressure monitors).

As you run the tires, the plasticizers in the tire are distributed more thru the tire to help replace those on the surface which dry out with the hot and low humidity environment on the surface of the tire. Theoretically jacking the vehicle up off the tires might also help to prolong the useful life. If you cannot jack the vehicle up, putting plastic (cutting board HDPE works well), also keep the inflation at proper level.
 
I feel tire heat increased by low tire air pressure or excessive speed is the main reason for tire failure, besides perhaps hitting road obstacles, so tire monitors as Bob suggest are good for tire failure prevention, but as we've had only one tire failure in 70,000 miles towing our CD22, I still can't justify its expense. For our long winter storage here in Wyoming, I do put the trailer up on blocks to give the tires & bearings a break. I've not replaced trailer tires for only their age & have ran them up to 8 years. Observation for wear, road damage, heat build up & visible aging such as surface cracking, along with not over loading or pre longed speeds of over 65 mph has worked for us here, but maybe it wouldn't have in a different location.

For those with 15" or larger rims, I think a LT tire with the right weight rating good, but for a 13 or 14 inch, the search could be a dead end with tire manufacturers trending to larger & larger rim size with the old 14" LT, like the Ford ranger once sported, fading away. The car tires in 14" don't come close to matching the weight rating of a C rated trailer specific tire.

Jay
 
I read the link and really think some of it has merit. The guy lost me when he stated the Michelins ribs were a summer tire and would not perform well in the cold. True on a light truck the rib tread design designates it is not as aggressive enough to perform as well in mud and snow but I have say I don't really think cold temps would affect them. My next trailer tires will be Michelins LT ribs. I'll leave the Chinese Maypop's to the ST crowd.
D.D.
 
The post from Wild Blue about the deteriorating car tires in Arizona got me to thinking, and when I checked I realized the trailer tires for my C-Dory are 7 years old, and though they show little sign of wear after annual roundtrips Wisconsin to Florida, Missouri, and Minnesota, I'll be having them very thoroughly checked this spring before any more long trips. In 2008, on a trip to Florida, I noticed severe wear, but only on about inch of tread on the right side of each tire. I stopped and bought 4 new radials, which have been on the trailer ever since.

The reason for the uneven wear on the original tires was because the axles on the trailer were .75 inch out of true. Fixing that problem, along with the new radials, increased my mpg from 12.1 to 12.9, and as I said, after 7 years, the tires show little sign of wear. But based on their age, I'll probably be buying new radials this spring.
 
smittypaddler":3riwlgk6 said:
The reason for the uneven wear on the original tires was because the axles on the trailer were .75 inch out of true. Fixing that problem...
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Can you tell me more about diagnosing/fixing that? I probably won't do it myself, but not sure what sort of shop does this? After around 25,000 miles, one of my tires is worn as you described - outer inch is bald. I'm about to replace anyway, as they are four years old, but would like to avoid the "special" wear on the next set if I can. Even if it doesn't cause me to replace tires prematurely (since they age out anyway), I'd rather not have whatever is causing it be there whenever I'm towing it.
 
I had the wear pattern issue on a single axle boat trailer years ago, and took it to an alignment shop. They "bend" the axle so it will roll true with the weight you tow.
 
Will-C":19xithwx said:
I read the link and really think some of it has merit. The guy lost me when he stated the Michelins ribs were a summer tire and would not perform well in the cold. True on a light truck the rib tread design designates it is not as aggressive enough to perform as well in mud and snow but I have say I don't really think cold temps would affect them. My next trailer tires will be Michelins LT ribs. I'll leave the Chinese Maypop's to the ST crowd.
D.D.
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From the "Michelin Guide to winter weather"
In cold temperatures, summer tires do not provide the performance that winter road conditions requires. They are made with different materials optimized for warmer conditions and they can, for instance, harden under cold temperature, thus lowering their gripping ability. Summer tires have difficulty gripping the road in snow or icy conditions.
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Some further reading on truck sites, suggests that the rubber composition for freezing weather is different than for the warmer summer driving.

Here is another link to trailer tires, written 2015 from Trailer Life:

http://www.trailerlife.com/trailer-how-to/trailer-tech/rv-tires-101/
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I certainly agree with the use of LT tires when available--but be aware of the tradeoffs.

Two other brands that get good reviews from the rivers in LT are Hankook, and Bridgestone DuraVis.

Although the Pressure/temp sensors for the tires are $250 to $350 for a set of 6 to 8, one Michelin tire is in the $350 range, and damage to a trailer or boat from a severe blow out can be considerably more.

If you are a member of Family Motor Coach association, there is a substantial discount on Michelin tires, plus the last set I got for my RV was manufactured only a few weeks before I had them installed.
 
The tire issue is a hot one on many forums. On Air Forums (Airstream), there is continual bashing of just about every ST tire made, with intense focus on Goodyear Marathons. The 'gurus' typically say you HAVE to put a Michelin LT tire on the trailer, and they promote going up to 16" wheels.

I've had a long conversation with my local Tire Factory guy. His take on it is, with as many tires (by any given maker) that are put on various trailers, there is bound to be an eventual issue. He believes that most of the issues are caused by the owners not paying attention to tire pressure, wear from axles out of alignment, and similar problems, and with as many copies of the tires out there... It happens. For a couple hundred bucks, he can install a tire pressure monitoring system that can move between the travel trailer and the boat. I'm probably going to do this. Do check pressure and tire temp on the road, but having a monitoring system seems wisest.

Right now, the LT tire (without changing wheel size) that is getting good reviews from the AS community is the Michelin Defender LTX M/S 235/75-15 109T XL. Our AS tires are going to be 4 years plus, this year so I will probably replace. Possibly before our winter trip. I have not decided which to replace with. I suspect it will either be staying with the GYMs or moving to Michelins.
 
Back to the original question. why do trailer tires not last as long? Well I have the belief that its sitting. Trailer tires do not get a lot of use. They sit in the sun in one spot for weeks in the summer and months in the winter and don't move. I think sitting in one spot , on one part of the tire , is bad for it. Just my thought. I have had blow outs on many trailer tires over the years and the only difference between them and the many cars I have had is the cars don,t sit.
 
At campground a Florida Trooper was my neighbor,he suggested the nitrogen and remembering him mentioning keeping the moisture out. I will always just air up and check pressure,didnt know nitro was expensive. On my 2011 Ford dually I noticed check cracks on BF Goodrich tires only 15,000 miles.Attended a truck camper rally n September someone suggested contacting manufacturer. I did and to my surprize they sent me to dealer which agreed with manufacturer to replace with tires of my choice 1/2 price. Got 6 Michelins ltx for $800. Even though tires were 5 yrs old. If it had not been suggested I would have just got 6 new tires in spring. So its worth to check for recalls ect.
 
From the "Michelin Guide to winter weather"
Quote:
In cold temperatures, summer tires do not provide the performance that winter road conditions requires. They are made with different materials optimized for warmer conditions and they can, for instance, harden under cold temperature, thus lowering their gripping ability. Summer tires have difficulty gripping the road in snow or icy conditions. quote.

So since I do most boating in warmer conditions. I don't really see the need leave home in Pa. with temps in the 20's heading to Florida in February that I should stop and change from winter tires to summer tires in Georgia? I'm not worried about tire failure using a "summer" tire in colder temperatures. Failures was what I was referring to. I would agree that winter tires are better equipped to deal with snow and ice but I don't travel much pulling the boat in those conditions. Since I travel mostly in warmer temps I'll take my chances with the summer Michelins.
D.D.
 
Nitrogen: I ran nitrogen in my tires a year ago. There was a pressure change of only a pound or two from winter to summer, so there is something to that claim. (The regular air would change 5 or 6 lbs.) Ok, after doing some research on my own, it seemed to me that the real difference was in the moisture content. The machines that install the nitrogen, are not including all the moisture that comes in a normal airline. I went back to normal air (I have a compressor, so it saved me a trip up to the car dealer every time I needed a refill...), but I put a dryer (a good one, like what is used for professional painting) on the line just before the pressure gauge/ valve connector, and found that this helped noticeably with the pressure changes from summer to winter. (Also helps with freeze up of the valve stem during the winter from internal moisture!)

Why Tires rot: Copied from another link: The rubber compound that makes up a tire contains a protective wax that is intended to protect the tire from oxidation. The protective wax provides protection when it reaches the surface of the tire through a process called “blooming”. Blooming is a process where protective wax works its way to the surface as the rubber tire flexes and compresses during use. When the tire is not in use the wax protection left at the surface from the previous use is consumed by oxidation, leaving the tire unprotected. When a tire is not in use the protective wax is not replenished because blooming only occurs when the tire is in use. Therefor tire degradation can vary depending on how often the tire is used.

I've always ran ST tires on my trailers, and rarely have I had to replace them before 6 or more years. But I also cover my tires when they sit, and place them on blocks during winter storage. When I first bought the boat and trailer (used), I did blow two tires the first summer on long trips. (However, the initial owner only used the trailer a few times a year, short distance. It was inside, but sat with very little use. See above about the "blooming".) I also maintain my tire pressures, and rarely tow over 65. Price is a big factor during purchasing the tires, and even with all the long distance trailering I have done, I just don't see the need to spend extra money for heavier duty tires, that are probably still going to dry rot if not taken care of, or used frequently enough to allow the natural compounds of the tire to protect it. (However, I don't go real cheap either. But Carlisle has been a good product for me, reasonably priced, along with a few other brands. And just because things are made in China, doesn't mean they are inferior...if they still have to meet US specs!) Colby
 
Sunbeam":vanlln27 said:
smittypaddler":vanlln27 said:
The reason for the uneven wear on the original tires was because the axles on the trailer were .75 inch out of true. Fixing that problem...
Click to expand...

Can you tell me more about diagnosing/fixing that? I probably won't do it myself, but not sure what sort of shop does this? After around 25,000 miles, one of my tires is worn as you described - outer inch is bald. I'm about to replace anyway, as they are four years old, but would like to avoid the "special" wear on the next set if I can. Even if it doesn't cause me to replace tires prematurely (since they age out anyway), I'd rather not have whatever is causing it be there whenever I'm towing it.
Click to expand...

I had the alignment done in a shop in Welaka, Florida, so I can't tell you from personal experience how it was done, but I'd guess simply with a square and tape measure.
 
I just checked my tires. As suspected, they are original to the trailer. 2004 Goodyear Marathons made in New Zealand. They look absolutely perfect. I would guess that bringing the boat down from Campbell River was the most miles they had ever seen. My spare is 2013 brand X made in China. I guess I need to look for new tires to replace what looks like new tires.

Mark
 
Mark,
The cool weather, and lack of UV light in the PNW will prolong life of tires....but 11 years is really pushing it. I take tires off the RV which look almost like new even with 40,000 miles, after 5 years. (But those are in hot environments much of the time).

I would replace the tires, even with short hauls.
 
Has anyone had experience with an insurance claim after an accident, while using non-trailer tires on the trailer? I have seen similar concerns from 'brats with regard to tow vehicle capacity. It's essentially a liability question.

My purpose is not to stir up controversy, but identify some additional considerations.

I just installed Greenball ST tires from Costco on my trailer. I have not used them enough to comment on the performance, but Costco service was excellent. The weight capacity and price of the Greenball ST tires compared VERY well to other options.
 
From what I have read, trailer tires are not required on a trailer, unless you need ST tires to meet your load requirements. It's whether you have met the load requirement that might cause legal issues. Of course, you can always have legal issues even if you have met all the requirements. My suspicion is that plaintiff's attorneys salivate when they hear that the defendant was towing a trailer.

Some people haul incredible loads. If you take a little utility trailer to the local pit and ask for a yard of pea gravel, you'll likely get it. That's 2,600 pounds (plus the weight of the trailer), probably in excess of 1,500# per tire on a single axle. The vast majority of street tires aren't rated for that. You will need ST load range D or higher tires to tow that (and preferably a 3/4 ton truck).

The same utility trailer with 300 pounds of yard trimmings will ride just fine on 13" street tires. Even $45 tires from Walmart are rated at 1,000#.

The legal issues of hauling a load of gravel on street tires are 1) if stopped by a State Trooper you will likely get a ticket for being overweight, 2) if a tire pops and you ruin the trailer, your insurance company will likely pay the claim if you're over your deductible, 3) if a tire pops and you run into another vehicle and permanently injure all 6 passengers, your insurance carrier will "tender your policy limits" (let's say $1,000,000) and you and the private attorney that you had to hire get to defend the balance of the plaintiff's claims (let's say $5,000,000) by arguing that you were not negligent in putting a 3,000 pound load on tires with a maximum load rating of 2,000 pounds.

Long story short, if you are within the tire's load range there isn't an issue.

Mark
 
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