To Fridge or not to Fridge - that is the question

Wandering Sagebrush":20bidb0m said:
travelekes":20bidb0m said:
Hello, I know this is an old thread, but does anyone have recent experience with Engel fridges?
Like this one:
https://overlandsite.com/camping-equipm ... er-review/

We use a 40 qt Engel, and love it. On the boat we keep it well below freezing to freeze water bottles and food that go into the Yeti for the daily meals.

Thank you for coming back to me. And for everyone else too.

Yes, I guess, I don't really need a dual zone 12V fridge/freezer, only a one-zone that can cool as well as freeze if needed, and supplement that with just a cooler box like the Yeti. I am not sure if Yeti's prices are justified, though.

I am considering these at the moment:

https://overlandsite.com/camping-equipm ... er-review/

Seems well below Yeti's price ranges and comments are pretty good.
 
Yeti=best marketing campaign ever.

We’re in the market for a cooler, we had been leaning towards the Engel (cooler, not the 12v fridge). That one you posted is interesting, thanks

Canyon coolers seems to also be worth considering.
 
Snider":98kqb8gf said:
Yeti=best marketing campaign ever.

We’re in the market for a cooler, we had been leaning towards the Engel (cooler, not the 12v fridge). That one you posted is interesting, thanks

Canyon coolers seems to also be worth considering.

Great, thanks I will check out the Canyon coolers too
 
travelekes":9i98uyv2 said:
Wandering Sagebrush":9i98uyv2 said:
travelekes":9i98uyv2 said:
Hello, I know this is an old thread, but does anyone have recent experience with Engel fridges?
Like this one:
https://overlandsite.com/camping-equipm ... er-review/

We use a 40 qt Engel, and love it. On the boat we keep it well below freezing to freeze water bottles and food that go into the Yeti for the daily meals.

Thank you for coming back to me. And for everyone else too.

Yes, I guess, I don't really need a dual zone 12V fridge/freezer, only a one-zone that can cool as well as freeze if needed, and supplement that with just a cooler box like the Yeti. I am not sure if Yeti's prices are justified, though.

I am considering these at the moment:

https://overlandsite.com/camping-equipm ... er-review/

Seems well below Yeti's price ranges and comments are pretty good.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zu-V0ZqfYHg
 
Couple of comments on coolers. We have an RTIC, probably a 65 quart size. It looks like it was made from a Yeti mold as the two are almost identical. We notice that the lid gasket is not as tight as it could be in the center so I probably lose a little air there. Could be just the way mine was assembled or the way the gasket is installed. It is tough and well made. Arrived nicely packaged and without any damage. They are on sale periodically and also have scratch and dent sales on line once in a while.

We also have an Igloo Sportsman purchased at Costco a few years ago. We use it more because it seems to seal better. Same size.

Both are good coolers and both quite a bit less expensive than Yeti. That said, if you want the best quality available, Yeti probably cannot be beat. All of them are rotomolded plastic so empty they can weigh quite a bit. 20 to 40 lbs depending on brand and size. A consideration as one decides to load it at home or load it when it is already on the boat.

Yeti was the first out with improved cooler technology but there are half a dozen brands that make high quality tough coolers now for extended use.

All of the above have thick insulated lids. That is not always true with the next level down in coolers. It depends what you are going to use it for. If you are going to be out for a long time then it is likely worth spending more so your ice lasts and you are assured your food will stay cold. If it is for shorter term use many coolers will work just fine.

One of the differences is in how tough the coolers are. Some have piano or rod hinges the full width of the coolers. Others have hinges held by four screws that work fine under light use. Some take a locking pin or padlock that helps with keeping animals out or if you wish to lock it to the boat with a cable. Some latches are more animal (bear) resistant.

You can extend the life of your ice in any cooler by keeping it in the shade and by covering it with a wet towel or sheet during the day to take advantage of evaporative cooling. If the outside of the cooler is warm to the touch the inside is warming up too.

Lots of options to choose from for your particular use...and at different price points.

The river rafting community and those that spend extended time at Lake Powell have this down to a science. There are other threads on the site that deal with coolers for extended time out but thought I would put in a quick summary here since it came up. My two cents anyway....
 
Wandering Sagebrush":2mi7gknm said:

The perfect example of why I don't carry an ice chest. $2.40 for a six pack of pop. $230 for an ice chest. $10 worth of ice. Five days later, I can drink a can of pop that is 34 degrees. Of course, that 40 cent can of pop cost me $40 to drink cold. By the time I finish drinking it, it will be 54 degrees. If I didn't have a cooler and just drank it at 54 degrees, it would still cost only 40 cents. As a bonus, I don't ever have to buy ice, carry a cooler, find space for a cooler, trip over a cooler, etc.

All that cost and screwing around for a temporary delta of 20 degrees? Bah. Coolers are for kids.

Mark
 
I love these long term posts. Here is a good current site that talks about all the brands of fridg/coolers with Danfoss/swing compressors - these will give you the low amp draw that most boats need:
https://www.overlandbound.com/forums/th ... port.8516/
The method of small freezer only with frozen water bottle swap makes a lot of sense, like a hybrid car also works best for some folks.
Bob Jarrard
PS: My off-roading friends use the ARB but is is $$$$$$$ BJ
 
Meh, I can drink warm soda or even beer, but try keeping food for any length of time when it’s over 100 degrees out. I guess we all have different challenges depending on our geographic region. We’re leaning towards an Engel. Then just something else that will hold fish for a day.


Marco Flamingo":2k3090wb said:
Wandering Sagebrush":2k3090wb said:

The perfect example of why I don't carry an ice chest. $2.40 for a six pack of pop. $230 for an ice chest. $10 worth of ice. Five days later, I can drink a can of pop that is 34 degrees. Of course, that 40 cent can of pop cost me $40 to drink cold. By the time I finish drinking it, it will be 54 degrees. If I didn't have a cooler and just drank it at 54 degrees, it would still cost only 40 cents. As a bonus, I don't ever have to buy ice, carry a cooler, find space for a cooler, trip over a cooler, etc.

All that cost and screwing around for a temporary delta of 20 degrees? Bah. Coolers are for kids.

Mark
 
Any brand of these chest type refer/freezers, will benefit from extra insulation. We use 5/8" styrofoam covered with plastic one side and mylar aluminum on the other side. Cut outs for the ventilation ports and duct tape on the corners--and "hinge" (or just set a couple of pieces on top) will make them much more efficient. We also use the trick of a white towel, kept damp over the top--makes a huge difference at Powell, where you can have over 100* during the day.

By the way, 100 degree beer is not all that good! I like mine cool!
 
For those of you who can remember the Rural Electrification Act (1935) there were already ways to keep things cool if not cold. In the Keys of Florida, one of the last places to get ZipZapPower, there were not lots of handy cold springs, nor caves to store winter snow/ice, nor root cellars (high water tables). But there was lots of burlap bags, wood crates, and a bit of line (and water, lots of water). You hung a wooden crate in the shade where there was a breeze, covered it with several layers of burlap, and kept the burlap wet (lots of systems and styles of doing that - a small boy with a dipper/bucket of water being a favorite) and you got a nice temp drop if it was not too humid. Look up the early recipes for that famed Key Lime Pie. It was made without refrigeration.
Bob Jarrard (also known as "Older Than Some Rocks but not as Smart"
 
Marco Flamingo":3bkn8bf8 said:
Wandering Sagebrush":3bkn8bf8 said:

The perfect example of why I don't carry an ice chest. $2.40 for a six pack of pop. $230 for an ice chest. $10 worth of ice. Five days later, I can drink a can of pop that is 34 degrees. Of course, that 40 cent can of pop cost me $40 to drink cold. By the time I finish drinking it, it will be 54 degrees. If I didn't have a cooler and just drank it at 54 degrees, it would still cost only 40 cents. As a bonus, I don't ever have to buy ice, carry a cooler, find space for a cooler, trip over a cooler, etc.

All that cost and screwing around for a temporary delta of 20 degrees? Bah. Coolers are for kids.

Mark

Mark, get up on the wrong side of the bed this morning? :)
 
We have the 50 qt ARB. Put in two flooded acid Group 31 batteries for house load.
Set the unit to 20 degrees F. Put frozen food in bottom and layered with other non frozen on top. Went 12 days last year in July in San Juans. Anchored out all but one night at Deer Harbor with shore power.
Stayed mostly 3 nights at Sucia, Stuart, Deer Harbor and back to Sucia.
Idled Honda 150 for 30 min each day at 1500 rpm for battery maint. when anchored.
We have ours located in cockpit behind head window.
Enjoyed not getting ice.
Working well for us!
 
Wandering Sagebrush":2o8vg2zi said:
Mark, get up on the wrong side of the bed this morning? :)

Nah, I was just planning an 11 day trip with no fuel stops, no potable water, no grocery stores. But then it occurred to me . . . NO ICE CUBES!!! Great googly woogly! It can't be done!!!

It turns out that it is the same path taken by Lewis and Clark in 1805 (in 11 days). I'll have to research which refrigeration unit they used.

Mark
 
kaelc":1l02venj said:
Has anyone considered this fridge? It looks like it will fit under the captains' seat of a 25 http://www.suremarineservice.com/C62IXD4-F.html

Be great to know your thoughts?
The factory option has been abut a 2.7 cu foot front opening refrigerator, which runs on both 12 volts DC and 120 V Ac, with compressor motor. The Vitrifrigo C62IXD4-F is about 1/2 cubic foot less than the factory option Norcold which runs on boat 120 V AC, as well as 12 V DC. The Vitrifrigo (good brand, but not a lot of therm around) runs only on 12 V DC, so that has to be kept in mind. It would work-but I would prefer the optioned Norcold. Any front loading ref has a considerable loss of cold air each time the door is opened.
 
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