Use the compressed ball to your advantage. If opening the fuel fill doesn't help, loosen fittings or take hoses loose one at a time, starting as close to the tank as possible, and when you get to the vacuum side of the restriction the bulb should inflate again. if you can isolate it this way it may make it easier.
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Thataway
- Thread starter thataway
- Start date
Thank you gentleman--It appears that the problem is somewhere before the fuel line--ie the draw tube, check valve or screen (if one is fitted). First no change with opening the deck fill. (Bulb still collapsed). Vent tube is straight up from the tank to the vent, and is clear. Next I went thru the filter system, and there is ( no problem with the Racor (Suzuki branded). There was a very large loop of fuel line going all the way to the bottom of the bilge, the fuel line goes up from the tank Just below cockpit level, to under the gunnel, then a large loop down to the bottom of the bilge, and back up to the Racor. There appeared to be a kink in this line, as it was tangled in the "cockpit light" wiring--and I shortened it, so that the loop was about down to top of tank level--this may have been a mistake, in retrospect there may have been a reason for the extra 3 1/2 feet of fuel line. I blew low pressure compressed air back thru the line(before Racor)--and it appeared to work better for several pumps with the bulb, then plugged back up again. At this point, it would appear that the problem is either a check valve, which I suspect is at the top of the fill tube. Or some obstruction in the tube--most likely a screen.
My son found another issue--that is that the top of the pilot house is not sealed to the top all of the way around the outside. At one point there is about 1/2" gap, and one can get a finger into this area and feel unsealed balsa core. There was no such gap in my 22. I suspect that the top is set in mismash, then either mat or cloth is placed on the inside of the cabin, filled and then gel coated. There are a few areas where there is some foam--similar to "great stuff", a sealant. Since I have an adversion to open balsa core, I will mask the cabin top and side, then use "Great stuff" or some other foam to fill this area. Although this would not be under water, with high humidity, I have concern that there could be mold growth in the balsa core unless it is properly sealed.
My son found another issue--that is that the top of the pilot house is not sealed to the top all of the way around the outside. At one point there is about 1/2" gap, and one can get a finger into this area and feel unsealed balsa core. There was no such gap in my 22. I suspect that the top is set in mismash, then either mat or cloth is placed on the inside of the cabin, filled and then gel coated. There are a few areas where there is some foam--similar to "great stuff", a sealant. Since I have an adversion to open balsa core, I will mask the cabin top and side, then use "Great stuff" or some other foam to fill this area. Although this would not be under water, with high humidity, I have concern that there could be mold growth in the balsa core unless it is properly sealed.
Fuel problem solved. It is the check valve (antisiphon valve), which is at the top of the tank, and is in a 3/8" hose barb to 1/4" pipe thread adaptor. I put in a plain hose barb to pipe thread adaptor, and no restriction--bulb remains full--fuel flow normal. The pressure to open the check valve was about 12 psi (I didn't have a vacuum guage, but should only be at 5 PSI or less).
Incidently there is a Tempo replacement, but neither of the nearby West Marine stores had this in stock.
Interestingly enough the CG requirement is:
"(1) Gasoline fuel lines must be connected at the top of the fuel
tank and run at or above the level of the tank top to a point as close
to the engine connection as practicable, except that lines below the
level of the tank top are permitted if equipped with anti-siphon
protection."
My boat had an extra 3 1/2 feet of fuel hose, down into the bilge, which would put it below the tank. I have rerouted the hose, so that it is all above the tank--and have asked C Dory to send me a replacement antisiphon/check valve.
I am still wondering why there was a loop of hose going below the top of the tank?
Incidently there is a Tempo replacement, but neither of the nearby West Marine stores had this in stock.
Interestingly enough the CG requirement is:
"(1) Gasoline fuel lines must be connected at the top of the fuel
tank and run at or above the level of the tank top to a point as close
to the engine connection as practicable, except that lines below the
level of the tank top are permitted if equipped with anti-siphon
protection."
My boat had an extra 3 1/2 feet of fuel hose, down into the bilge, which would put it below the tank. I have rerouted the hose, so that it is all above the tank--and have asked C Dory to send me a replacement antisiphon/check valve.
I am still wondering why there was a loop of hose going below the top of the tank?
Air conditioning is running! Jeff M is sending new anti siphon valves and caulk for the roof. We also got the matching cushions and interior to our custom upholustry color (Aquamarine) from the factory. About 10 days ago, we got the new cover for the aft cockpit compartment, but the seat cushion was sea foam instead of Aquamarine, as the rest of the upholustry. Jeff M and I exchanged E mails, and I said I would buy an appropiate color cushion--Jeff said no, that C Dory would send the proper color. Also they had sent interior window coverings--but in the wrong color. We were just going to live with that, but today the correct color cushion came along with proper color window coverings.
To install the two new circuit breakers in the electical pannel, we had to loosen the ground and the common 110 bus bar for all of the breakers and move the pannel out in order to fit the two new breakers in. These breakers are for the microwave/second battery charger and the air conditioning.
The Air conditioning is a Coleman Polar Cub, 8300 BTU RV roof air. It lowered the cabin temperature 20 degrees from the base line before turning it on. The average temperature in the cabin maintained at about 83 degrees and outside was in the 95 to 98 degrees in the shade, but the boat was in the sun, and that was over 100 degrees. By 7 PM the outside was 85 and the boat was 72. The bunk would have been very comfortable for sleeping by 7. We are ordering shades for the hatch and will be putting 90% + shade cloth from Lowes. This is a Poly prop, which we have used on boats before. We will make an awning, which will cover most of the cabin top, and shade the foredeck and side windows. I anticipate that we should see temps in the high 70's with this arrangement. The air conditioning will run off the Honda EU 2000i in eco throttle mode. This was one of the criteria for our air conditioning unit.
Hopefully we have all of the problems fixed on the boat now. C Dory has been there all along with advice and sending parts as needed. I must say that one could not find a more co-operative manufacturer!
To install the two new circuit breakers in the electical pannel, we had to loosen the ground and the common 110 bus bar for all of the breakers and move the pannel out in order to fit the two new breakers in. These breakers are for the microwave/second battery charger and the air conditioning.
The Air conditioning is a Coleman Polar Cub, 8300 BTU RV roof air. It lowered the cabin temperature 20 degrees from the base line before turning it on. The average temperature in the cabin maintained at about 83 degrees and outside was in the 95 to 98 degrees in the shade, but the boat was in the sun, and that was over 100 degrees. By 7 PM the outside was 85 and the boat was 72. The bunk would have been very comfortable for sleeping by 7. We are ordering shades for the hatch and will be putting 90% + shade cloth from Lowes. This is a Poly prop, which we have used on boats before. We will make an awning, which will cover most of the cabin top, and shade the foredeck and side windows. I anticipate that we should see temps in the high 70's with this arrangement. The air conditioning will run off the Honda EU 2000i in eco throttle mode. This was one of the criteria for our air conditioning unit.
Hopefully we have all of the problems fixed on the boat now. C Dory has been there all along with advice and sending parts as needed. I must say that one could not find a more co-operative manufacturer!
El and Bill
New member
Bob --
What are your cruising plans with the new boat?? Looking forward to some tales. e&b
What are your cruising plans with the new boat?? Looking forward to some tales. e&b
Hi Bill and El,
This fall we want to do the river system between Columbus GA and Apalachacola. The upper (or really Southern) St. Johns. and probably some of the Tennessee River. Next Spring, S. Florida, Bahamas, and if my mother in laws health is stable, a trip to Alaska next summer (Probably from Prince Rupert). We want to explore some of the waters in Minnissota, and Wisconson. Another trip we are thinking about, is the Bay of Campeche--the draft should allow the boat to get in almost all of the lagoons, and that may make it "doable" from a fuel range standpoint.
All is very much contingent on our health, and Marie's mother's health. One of the big questions is what the range will be at displacement speed. So far my numbers (light boat) look pretty good, but I haven't calibrated the flow meter, and don't know what "3/4" really means on the fuel guage.
We have well over 100 miles on the boat, and the fuel guage reads about 3/4--A fair amount of that has been in ideal circumstances and some at slow speeds.
Regards,
This fall we want to do the river system between Columbus GA and Apalachacola. The upper (or really Southern) St. Johns. and probably some of the Tennessee River. Next Spring, S. Florida, Bahamas, and if my mother in laws health is stable, a trip to Alaska next summer (Probably from Prince Rupert). We want to explore some of the waters in Minnissota, and Wisconson. Another trip we are thinking about, is the Bay of Campeche--the draft should allow the boat to get in almost all of the lagoons, and that may make it "doable" from a fuel range standpoint.
All is very much contingent on our health, and Marie's mother's health. One of the big questions is what the range will be at displacement speed. So far my numbers (light boat) look pretty good, but I haven't calibrated the flow meter, and don't know what "3/4" really means on the fuel guage.
We have well over 100 miles on the boat, and the fuel guage reads about 3/4--A fair amount of that has been in ideal circumstances and some at slow speeds.
Regards,
New photos of Air conditioning and of the electronics in place--not yet all hooked up, because I am running another switch pannel, and heavier guage wiring from the #2 house battery to run these. There will be a switch over available between house banks and a separate larger battery charger. Also the Ham radio, including HF and VHF/UHF will be on the second battery, and located on the "shelf".
The "crash bar" was something that almost universally people asked about as I looked at boats. This gives the passanger something to hang onto, plus will help getting the old body out of the bunk if necessary. Also one can stand well forward and hang onto this, since the overhead railings don't come foreward enough.
The Radar is mounted from the top, with the mount on the electronics shelf. The screen can pivoit foreward and up to be out of the way. All controls are easily reached from the natural position at the helm. The Lowrance HD 26 (7" display, with all of U S Topo maps, and Nauticpath marine maps on the 20 gig hard drive, plus hot spots fishing charts on SD cards, and ability to use Navionics SD chips (2 chips at once). We have had a street map--topo is better--on our inland boats for some time--and there are many times that a topo/street map give you information that is not on the marine chart: like where is a gas station or convience store? Drug store, or other points of interest. The Standard Horizon 175 (6" GPS plotter, no fish finder) uses the new C map Max charts. Sometimes C map is better, some areas the Navionics is better. I like the redundancy, plus ability to run topo on one, and marine on the other. This also gives me considerably more screen real estate than a 10" plotter, when you add in 7" radar separately, plus the two GPS Fish finder. I like my GPS/plotter just below my line of vision foreward, and the Radar just above the line of vision. I have been using Radar for over 30 years, and can form a mental overlay, so I don't see any reason for myself to have an integrated unit. I still feel that Furuno has the best Radar, but they have lagged on the chart plotters. I didn't photograph the compass, but it is right in the center of the dash. I had to make a Starboard fairing block to get it level. I used a hand bearing compass to check for deviation--the amount is acceptable, and I will use a sun compass to correct the compass.
Why two VHF radios (plus two hand helds?). Along the ICW and in many harbors--amounst gill netters in the PNW etc. There is almost always a working frequncy which is used by the commerical craft--you want to listen to this for any security issues and where the nets are, when a boat needs room to turn/pass etc. The other radio is for the channel 16 moniter, and has the loudhailer/fog horn etc for emergency. I have rarely used a loud hailer, but the auto fog horn is very handy. Both radios are DSC enabled, and hooked to the GPS, the standard horizon 175 will show the location on the chart plotter of any DSC enabled boat transmitting. If I get AIS, it will be connected to my laptop, which will be on a RAM mount by the passanger's seat. The lap top has all of the NOAA and Corp of Engineers charts on the hard drive, and its own USB antenna, but I do not use it as primary navigation instrument.
Finally, the air conditioner (I was in hog haven today--AC going and listening to Click and Clack on Car Talk, NPR via the sirius radio, while I was drilling holes etc!). I am not sure if I really needed to make the framework inside as thick as I did, but the wire for the 110 has to go thru it. When I put insullation and a headliner (this will cover the 110 and 12 volt wires (12 volt in case I pull the AC and put a Fantastic Fan over that hatch)--or other future 12 volt needs up on the cabin roof... There will also be ham radio antenna leads and 3" wide copper foil ground straping on the overhead, which will have to be concealed. The shade cloth is temporary--I have awning rail ordered and there will be curtains on each side, exterior to the windows. I will have one awning over the foredeck, and perhaps a slant back over the aft deck. I most likely will leave the Bimini down when we are not using the boat--and definately when trailering! You can see out of the shade cloth--but not enough visability to run the boat. Finally we are making progress--and I can show what and why I am doing with the fitting out of "Thataway". I welcome comments or suggestions.
The "crash bar" was something that almost universally people asked about as I looked at boats. This gives the passanger something to hang onto, plus will help getting the old body out of the bunk if necessary. Also one can stand well forward and hang onto this, since the overhead railings don't come foreward enough.
The Radar is mounted from the top, with the mount on the electronics shelf. The screen can pivoit foreward and up to be out of the way. All controls are easily reached from the natural position at the helm. The Lowrance HD 26 (7" display, with all of U S Topo maps, and Nauticpath marine maps on the 20 gig hard drive, plus hot spots fishing charts on SD cards, and ability to use Navionics SD chips (2 chips at once). We have had a street map--topo is better--on our inland boats for some time--and there are many times that a topo/street map give you information that is not on the marine chart: like where is a gas station or convience store? Drug store, or other points of interest. The Standard Horizon 175 (6" GPS plotter, no fish finder) uses the new C map Max charts. Sometimes C map is better, some areas the Navionics is better. I like the redundancy, plus ability to run topo on one, and marine on the other. This also gives me considerably more screen real estate than a 10" plotter, when you add in 7" radar separately, plus the two GPS Fish finder. I like my GPS/plotter just below my line of vision foreward, and the Radar just above the line of vision. I have been using Radar for over 30 years, and can form a mental overlay, so I don't see any reason for myself to have an integrated unit. I still feel that Furuno has the best Radar, but they have lagged on the chart plotters. I didn't photograph the compass, but it is right in the center of the dash. I had to make a Starboard fairing block to get it level. I used a hand bearing compass to check for deviation--the amount is acceptable, and I will use a sun compass to correct the compass.
Why two VHF radios (plus two hand helds?). Along the ICW and in many harbors--amounst gill netters in the PNW etc. There is almost always a working frequncy which is used by the commerical craft--you want to listen to this for any security issues and where the nets are, when a boat needs room to turn/pass etc. The other radio is for the channel 16 moniter, and has the loudhailer/fog horn etc for emergency. I have rarely used a loud hailer, but the auto fog horn is very handy. Both radios are DSC enabled, and hooked to the GPS, the standard horizon 175 will show the location on the chart plotter of any DSC enabled boat transmitting. If I get AIS, it will be connected to my laptop, which will be on a RAM mount by the passanger's seat. The lap top has all of the NOAA and Corp of Engineers charts on the hard drive, and its own USB antenna, but I do not use it as primary navigation instrument.
Finally, the air conditioner (I was in hog haven today--AC going and listening to Click and Clack on Car Talk, NPR via the sirius radio, while I was drilling holes etc!). I am not sure if I really needed to make the framework inside as thick as I did, but the wire for the 110 has to go thru it. When I put insullation and a headliner (this will cover the 110 and 12 volt wires (12 volt in case I pull the AC and put a Fantastic Fan over that hatch)--or other future 12 volt needs up on the cabin roof... There will also be ham radio antenna leads and 3" wide copper foil ground straping on the overhead, which will have to be concealed. The shade cloth is temporary--I have awning rail ordered and there will be curtains on each side, exterior to the windows. I will have one awning over the foredeck, and perhaps a slant back over the aft deck. I most likely will leave the Bimini down when we are not using the boat--and definately when trailering! You can see out of the shade cloth--but not enough visability to run the boat. Finally we are making progress--and I can show what and why I am doing with the fitting out of "Thataway". I welcome comments or suggestions.
El and Bill
New member
Sounds like great trip planning, Bob -- sure hope some or all works out for you. The outfitting on the boat is a great help for others setting up new boats.
Keep us posted on your cruising.
Keep us posted on your cruising.
Well, I just passed one of those "O" years and am back to work on Thataway! I have put up a few new pictures (but couldn't seem to deleat some of the old ones?).
The instrument pannel is finished: I added a 6 position rotary switch for the battery volt meter (Digital to 0.00 places) The either ends are "Off" and no power to the meter. Each of the four middle positions represent port, stb starting batteries, then aft house and foreward house (a Group 31 AGM for the freezer/ham radio). It has separate breakers and switches on the front of the dinnette seat, but can be combined with the other house with an on/off switch under the dash. (Removable Key).
Radar dome and loud hailer are in. The wave guide is a little over an inch above the airconidtioning top--but that is mostly plastic, so I don't see any problem with the aft geometry of the radar beam. I added 6 more switches and breakers: Fans, (both side windshield, over the bunk x 2 and over the galley), SSB radio, GPS, Radar, more cigarette lighter plugs, and one not yet determined--may be light lights).
The beauty of the C Dory 22, was that the helmsman could reach out of the window, secure a fender and spring line to the foreward spring cleat and loop it around a dock cleat or under a bull rail and back. The spring line cleat is so far foreward in the TC 255, and the C D 25, it is very difficult to reach. I have done this before on a fishing boat where I wanted no rail obstructions. I got a SS "D" ring, which bolts to the deck and lies flat (I recessed it slightly by grinding off the gel coat in the area where it sits) when not in use, and you can walk over it without slipping or tripping. I made a 25' spring line, with a 8" eye splice in one end, and a stopper knot in the other. A 4000 lb caribiner was placed in the middle, and a simple slip knot will secure the rope where you want it. The eye splice could be kept on the foreward spring line cleat, and the caribiner passed under a rail or cleat, or the caribiner could be attatched to the pad eye and the eye splice dropped over a dock cleat, etc--several ways of using. The fender also has brass snap which will secure it to the D ring.
Pictures are posted.
I have added a second Battery charger (Prosine 20) for the house batteries. D Cory did not see fit to allow for battery charging for the house bank with the standard 10 amp, two starting battery charger. I also ran a second #8 duplex wire to the console so that the electronics will have their dedicated line, separte from the starting battery's draw, from the aft house. The combiners are ready to be mounted to allow automatic charging of the house batteries when under way.
Pretty close to getting to the point of serious use. I'll wait until the winter before tearing the boat apart and putting in the second water tank!
The instrument pannel is finished: I added a 6 position rotary switch for the battery volt meter (Digital to 0.00 places) The either ends are "Off" and no power to the meter. Each of the four middle positions represent port, stb starting batteries, then aft house and foreward house (a Group 31 AGM for the freezer/ham radio). It has separate breakers and switches on the front of the dinnette seat, but can be combined with the other house with an on/off switch under the dash. (Removable Key).
Radar dome and loud hailer are in. The wave guide is a little over an inch above the airconidtioning top--but that is mostly plastic, so I don't see any problem with the aft geometry of the radar beam. I added 6 more switches and breakers: Fans, (both side windshield, over the bunk x 2 and over the galley), SSB radio, GPS, Radar, more cigarette lighter plugs, and one not yet determined--may be light lights).
The beauty of the C Dory 22, was that the helmsman could reach out of the window, secure a fender and spring line to the foreward spring cleat and loop it around a dock cleat or under a bull rail and back. The spring line cleat is so far foreward in the TC 255, and the C D 25, it is very difficult to reach. I have done this before on a fishing boat where I wanted no rail obstructions. I got a SS "D" ring, which bolts to the deck and lies flat (I recessed it slightly by grinding off the gel coat in the area where it sits) when not in use, and you can walk over it without slipping or tripping. I made a 25' spring line, with a 8" eye splice in one end, and a stopper knot in the other. A 4000 lb caribiner was placed in the middle, and a simple slip knot will secure the rope where you want it. The eye splice could be kept on the foreward spring line cleat, and the caribiner passed under a rail or cleat, or the caribiner could be attatched to the pad eye and the eye splice dropped over a dock cleat, etc--several ways of using. The fender also has brass snap which will secure it to the D ring.
Pictures are posted.
I have added a second Battery charger (Prosine 20) for the house batteries. D Cory did not see fit to allow for battery charging for the house bank with the standard 10 amp, two starting battery charger. I also ran a second #8 duplex wire to the console so that the electronics will have their dedicated line, separte from the starting battery's draw, from the aft house. The combiners are ready to be mounted to allow automatic charging of the house batteries when under way.
Pretty close to getting to the point of serious use. I'll wait until the winter before tearing the boat apart and putting in the second water tank!
Not For Hire
New member
Sounds like you have arrived at an excellent electric/charging setup. It's a good feeling to have the house and electronics isolated with separate feeds and chargers. Appreciate the work you have done and sharing with all. Now time to get THATAWAY good and wet.
Regards, Mark
Regards, Mark
I noticed in reading your log, as this is turning out to be, that you mentioned loudness in your first real test run. Now that you have been out a couple of times, is your TomCat as noisy in the cabin as the 22 cruiser? I have a 22 cruiser and the hull seems to amplify the engine sound to a level where hearing protection would be advisable. I have Honda 45's on it.
Sea Wolf
Thanks, I read the entire link. However it doesn't really tell you anything about the problem that can be used. The last post actually got to the point. It isn't the loudness of any particular motor, it is that the motor noise is amplified through the hull in the cabin. I have read in other links about insulating and carpeting the entire inside of the hull for noise abatement which is a pretty drastic thing to have to do, especially in wet country when the cabin is wet a lot of the time.
When I first got my 22 cruiser with the hondas, I expected a quiet hum because of the advertised quietness of the 4 strokes. You can imagine my disappointment when I experienced the roar in the cabin when on step. It is quieter with the door closed, but, louder than most any other cabin boat that I have been in. It's even pleasant sitting outside when underway.
Anyway, I have come to except the noise as a necessary evil and don't worry about it. Just a characteristic of the C-Dory.
Thanks, I read the entire link. However it doesn't really tell you anything about the problem that can be used. The last post actually got to the point. It isn't the loudness of any particular motor, it is that the motor noise is amplified through the hull in the cabin. I have read in other links about insulating and carpeting the entire inside of the hull for noise abatement which is a pretty drastic thing to have to do, especially in wet country when the cabin is wet a lot of the time.
When I first got my 22 cruiser with the hondas, I expected a quiet hum because of the advertised quietness of the 4 strokes. You can imagine my disappointment when I experienced the roar in the cabin when on step. It is quieter with the door closed, but, louder than most any other cabin boat that I have been in. It's even pleasant sitting outside when underway.
Anyway, I have come to except the noise as a necessary evil and don't worry about it. Just a characteristic of the C-Dory.
dtol - have you seen those ceiling and wall treatments done in large buildings and restaurants to reduce the noise levels? Kind of like horizontal rods with soft cloth draped to sag a bit in between. I am wondering if you could do something like that using the towels or blankets you normally carry? Some overhead and wall mounted rods with beach towels, blankets, etc. running thru them? It would help to keep moisture out of the soft materials, keep the towels handy, and you would not need sound dampening while sleeping with the blankets, or bathing with the towels.
that is what I am thinking of doing...
John
that is what I am thinking of doing...
John
drjohn71a
The treatments your talking about wouldn't decrease noise levels but do reduce the echo in a large room. There isn't enough head room in the older 22 cruisers to be hanging things inside.
Sound is vibrations in the air and travels freely when there is air. That is why bat insulation is not usefull as sound proofing in construction. If you want to soundproof a room you add another layer of sheetrock, not insulation. I believe the sound vibrations are conducted through the fiberglass hull and amplified inside the cabin. I haven't heard of anything yet that really is effective enough to be worth the trouble, expense, and extra weight in the boat.
Sorry Thataway. Didn't mean to sidetrack this great thread. My question is whether sound is still an issue in the 25 cruiser and the TC255 and thought you might let us know what you are finding with your new TC.
dtol
The treatments your talking about wouldn't decrease noise levels but do reduce the echo in a large room. There isn't enough head room in the older 22 cruisers to be hanging things inside.
Sound is vibrations in the air and travels freely when there is air. That is why bat insulation is not usefull as sound proofing in construction. If you want to soundproof a room you add another layer of sheetrock, not insulation. I believe the sound vibrations are conducted through the fiberglass hull and amplified inside the cabin. I haven't heard of anything yet that really is effective enough to be worth the trouble, expense, and extra weight in the boat.
Sorry Thataway. Didn't mean to sidetrack this great thread. My question is whether sound is still an issue in the 25 cruiser and the TC255 and thought you might let us know what you are finding with your new TC.
dtol
dtol,
I can report that my '03 CD-25 is tolerable with the rear door open. With the door closed, it is uncannily quiet. I have twin 4-stroke Yami 80's. I've had CD-22 owners on board, they have remarked how quiet it is with the door open. I have no special insulation other than a 3/8" thick throw rug on the floor. Possibly the sound frequency output (at approx 4,000-4,500 rpm) of a larger Yami vs a smaller Honda?
I would look to lower or raise the absorption resonant frequency of the cabin cavity, sound deadening material should produce this effect. This subject has been discussed within the last year on the 16 and 19 cruisers I believe, try some searches. Good luck.
I can report that my '03 CD-25 is tolerable with the rear door open. With the door closed, it is uncannily quiet. I have twin 4-stroke Yami 80's. I've had CD-22 owners on board, they have remarked how quiet it is with the door open. I have no special insulation other than a 3/8" thick throw rug on the floor. Possibly the sound frequency output (at approx 4,000-4,500 rpm) of a larger Yami vs a smaller Honda?
I would look to lower or raise the absorption resonant frequency of the cabin cavity, sound deadening material should produce this effect. This subject has been discussed within the last year on the 16 and 19 cruisers I believe, try some searches. Good luck.
Yup, didn't want to brag on it, but the 2005 EFI Yamaha I replaced my old Evinrude 90 hp two-stroke with, is much quieter than the old engine.
They even went to work on quieting the air intake noise on the new motor.
It's so quiet at idle, we even pulled it out of the water on the trailer and went up to the parking lot before we noticed it was running! (OH-OH!!!) (No damage.)
Joe.
They even went to work on quieting the air intake noise on the new motor.
It's so quiet at idle, we even pulled it out of the water on the trailer and went up to the parking lot before we noticed it was running! (OH-OH!!!) (No damage.)
Joe.
There is a huge difference in engine noise level between the Tom Cat 255 and the C Dory22. At idle I cannot hear if one or two engines are running--in fact it is hard to know if both engines are running--I have to look at the tacks or "pee". As the boat comes up to speed, even with the door open (the only way we have run it), engine noise is there, but we can talk in a normal conversation, so I have to say it is below 60 dB sound level. I attibute this to the 4 stoke engines as much as anything. The hull noise is about the same in the Tom Cat 255, as the C Dory 22--some conditions more, some conditions less..
We have not decided about the floor in the 255, but in the 22 we put in a foam mat about 3/4" thick--obtained at "Sam's club". It may be a rug, if we can make it truely "non skid"--and this may be either heavy carpet just fitted, or with snaps. Since we have the overhead air conditioner, I cannot sacifice too much more headroom. In the 255, we are going to be putting in thermal insuallation--most likely a PVC foam. Plus a head liner on the top and part of the sides foreward. This will have a slight sound dampening factor also.
We have not decided about the floor in the 255, but in the 22 we put in a foam mat about 3/4" thick--obtained at "Sam's club". It may be a rug, if we can make it truely "non skid"--and this may be either heavy carpet just fitted, or with snaps. Since we have the overhead air conditioner, I cannot sacifice too much more headroom. In the 255, we are going to be putting in thermal insuallation--most likely a PVC foam. Plus a head liner on the top and part of the sides foreward. This will have a slight sound dampening factor also.
Some further photos posted: several of the extra circuit breakers (one each for the combiner circuit to house, one each from the house to the specific electronics bus bar. The electronics will be isolated from the starting batteries when the engines are starting, thus avoiding the potential power spikes associated with start up.
I added several more cigarette lighter plugs--one in the combing of the stb cockpit, up inside and some what protected. The cockpit plug is utalized for pumping up the inflatable (LM pump), cockpit reading lights, boom box etc.
I showed details of the rotary switch for the volt meter to read 4 battery banks. I also showed one of the combiners installed( out of the weather in both lazarettes. I also showed the chart light, fan on the stb helm piller and the speaker for the sterio.
I have a picture of two fans--see "A tale of two fans" for details. There is a photo of one of my favorite anchor types. A friend came up with one which has a spring loaded, rotating, folding stock for an 8 lb Northill pattern by Danforth. This is a great anchor for grass. It will be a stern anchor. (I also have a large stainless Steel folding Northill which was used by the Navy in sea planes--both PBY's and Grauman Gooses and Mallards)
This weekend we should do some playing with the boat!
I added several more cigarette lighter plugs--one in the combing of the stb cockpit, up inside and some what protected. The cockpit plug is utalized for pumping up the inflatable (LM pump), cockpit reading lights, boom box etc.
I showed details of the rotary switch for the volt meter to read 4 battery banks. I also showed one of the combiners installed( out of the weather in both lazarettes. I also showed the chart light, fan on the stb helm piller and the speaker for the sterio.
I have a picture of two fans--see "A tale of two fans" for details. There is a photo of one of my favorite anchor types. A friend came up with one which has a spring loaded, rotating, folding stock for an 8 lb Northill pattern by Danforth. This is a great anchor for grass. It will be a stern anchor. (I also have a large stainless Steel folding Northill which was used by the Navy in sea planes--both PBY's and Grauman Gooses and Mallards)
This weekend we should do some playing with the boat!