SV Panope Anchor Testing

If you are going to relate your anchoring to the extremely rare condition where the wind goes from 10 k to 70 k, there is no anchor or rode system which will guarantee holding. When a strong wind hits, and once your anchor starts to drag, then you are in very serious trouble. The anchor most likely will not reset, and will skate across the bottom. In those conditions you better have. your engine started and ready to roll.

I have been in conditions where the holding was not as good as ideal. Once the boat began to drag, I already had the engine started and had handed out sharp knives to my wife, son and daughter. As I put the engine in gear and reved it--I yelled cut the lines. We had already drug a significant distance, but were rapidly moving away from the lee shore. It took us several hours diving the next morining to find our ground tackle. This was in a boat which weight was about fifteen times that of our C Dory 22's. That boat had a very substantial full keel and 7 foot draft. The C Dory will skate across the water, with almost zero grip of underwater appendages.

I would caution if one tried to use 3/8" G4 chain (weight twice as much as 1/4" G4 chain 1.5#/ft vs .75#/ft.). Then there is the volume issue--compounded by the larger volume of the 5/8 rode both on a reel drum and in the anchor locker--and inadequate fall for the chain that might bring. Also the deck attachment point and damage done to the C Dory if these speculated loads were applied (ripping fender washers thru the deck etc.). The elasticity of the whole system is also important. Once above about 40 knots of wind there is no cantary in the chain, and even with a kellet, that chain will not provide the shock load protection necessary. Usually shock loads is what breaks chains, not the steady pull. Even if you use snubber lines, what would they be cleated to to withstand the types of loads speculated here? In other words--stay within the bounds of what the various parts of the entire system will stand. Real world anchoring is a lot more than the ground tackle.
PS- picked up a copy of (the now 69th edition; 70th due out October '26) Chapman's Piloting & Seamanship at your encouragement to someone else on the forum... (whistle)... isn't exactly a light daytime read! (even with the 1500 color photos-- lots to pay attention to in a small space, considering)


(Fun Fact: I looked up the original guy, "The original author, Charles Frederic Chapman (1881–1976)" and had to scratch my head thinking how he was born before electric street lights were prevalent and with James Garfield / Chester Arthur as president and then also could have watched Rocky and played Atari while listening to Led Zeppelin.
 
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Overall this thread has been a bit to deep in the weeds for me, but I have learned some new things about the latest anchors available & glad Dave has taken the considerable time & effort to share his thoughts & information gathered. Also, as always Bob’s shared knowledge & experiences add greatly to this thread.

On Bob’s very accurate statement “If you are going to relate your anchoring to the extremely rare condition where the wind goes from 10 k to 70 k, there is no anchor or rode system which will guarantee holding. When a strong wind hits, and once your anchor starts to drag, then you are in very serious trouble. The anchor most likely will not reset, and will skate across the bottom. In those conditions you better have. your engine started and ready to roll.” I experienced a situation related to this, where fortunately my oversized Manson Boss 25 lb anchor held, but I was at the helm with motors running for several hours during the night, knowing if the anchor dragged at all, we were going to be in a very bad situation. This was off the outside waters of Alaska’s Chichagof Island in Falcon Cove. The weather report was calling for a 50 mph plus gale with the winds coming from the east & therefore blowing down slope off shore, so wanting to limit fetch, I anchored as close to the west shore as possible. With a flood tide swing from low this put my motors only about 20 to 30 feet from the shore. About 2 am, the winds hit but not from the west as forecast, instead directly out of the east & pushing us toward the close shore instead of away from it. The tide was low, so we were very close to shore with wind screaming & the rode stretched very tight. I knew if the anchor started to drag, I had a very slim chance of getting the anchor up enough to make way, without the wind swinging the bow around & us up on shore. It did make for a long night. I’m a firm believer in an oversized for boat anchor for that bit of extra hold & also when in a crowded or very small nook anchorage, where much lower scope is necessary. Now with so much anchoring done in varied bottoms & conditions, I’m very satisfied & sleep well when anchored for the most part with my present Lewmar 700H Windless, 50 feet of 1/4 inch G4 chain & 250 feet of 8 brait 1/2 inch line. The Boss anchor doesn’t have a roll bar & I’ve never had it flip. My 15# Manson Supreme spare does have a roll bar & I much prefer the Boss, which rides low not obstructing the view & self launches. I will add on the situation related above, the anchor not only held, but we had a heck of a time breaking it loose when the winds did subside. I believe the Manson Boss to be equal to the best anchors now available, but haven’t seen any test data to verify it. Unfortunately Manson quit making the Boss.
 
Overall this thread has been a bit to deep in the weeds for me
I know, I know :) When my wife and I were getting married, we wrote our own vows that included a few "I promise to... I promise to..." items, which we each had to come up with as a surprise, and then the two sets would have a mirrored structure. They were nice and personalized things about being eventual parent partners, listening, etc., and she added one, "I promise to 'discuss' with you, even if that means pondering what sound a giraffe makes", then turned to the whole place, which was laughing, and said with a tired vibe like anyone who's read even part of this anchor thread "...that happened". It was my favorite moment from the whole wedding :)

But yes, it was too deep in the weeds even for me, knowing I really could just get any 13-20lb anchor of the new type and be done with it (and believing that) but I wanted to learn what I don't know, even if I choose to ignore it now and later because "it's the largest one that fits" etc..-- to somehow make up, partially, for being 42 and not having anchored overnight once in my life, now fully responsible for wife and two kids and dog on said anchor. Trust is earned, not anointed, and I want them to trust me, and I want me to trust me, and I want to trust my gear in most conditions we'd encounter (and to know when not to trust it, and what to do if I don't). I'd go flying on weekends with my grandfather as a kid, in his old Piper Colt 2-seater, and it was instilled early that you need to trust your gear and check your gear. The stakes are high but the risks are acceptable. I eventually went skydiving, too, and the odds were something like 1 in 250,000 properly packed parachutes fails to deploy, and we had two, so you'd multiply the denominator so 1 over 250,000 x 250,000. And that was data from the old round ones, so it surely would have been better. And my guy was having his 1400th jump, so it took all fear out of it for me (and almost all of the "hey what if" fear/fun feeling), whereas the girls on our trip were screaming lol, I was having a great time albeit a bit boring (!) despite 50 seconds of free fall (I thought you'd have that rollercoaster feeling the whole time; nope, just the initial second or two, then it was just like sticking your head out a sunroof at 120mph). Same thing for a 150' bungee jump over a river I did-- zero accidents in NZ where it was (they took it seriously there, where it was invented)-- and I had a great time but not the "fun" feeling I was expecting; I trusted my gear and the outfit running it. Later I got a motorcycle. Read the books, took the courses, had the gear, trusted my bike, but sold it within months. Despite a high visibility yellow outfit, white full face helmet, and red bike (which was shaft driven, not chain), people would cut me off, not see me, etc.. The actuarial risks of a crash were 1 in 1, and I went from "that wont be me, that's those lane splitter rice rockets" to "oh I totally get it-- it's not you, it's everyone else".

Marketing data on anchors is like the old "how many times (x) zoom is your digital camera" (2x, 5x) from when those were new, and some started including digital zoom rather than optical zoom (optical = actual zoom, like binoculars; digital= which then would just double the size of the existing pixels, creating larger scale with no further detail). So then your new "10x zoom" camera was really 5x plus 5x more digital (just making a 5x picture bigger looking but not any clearer than 5x-- or you taking a 5x and hitting zoom on the computer), and people would overlook the 7x zoom that was really all optical and therefore better. But if that company didn't do it, their sales would suffer, so they basically had to do it to keep up with most people's lack of understanding about things they're using/buying/trusting. Or like now, new dishwashers will say "ours is the quietest" and then you discover (this is true) they are averaging in the decibels of when the machine is sitting OFF, silent, soaking between wash/rinse cycles (which they all do for energy savings-- that's why it takes like 2 hours for a dishwasher vs 30 min from the old days), for say an average noise rating of 70 decibels which gets put on the sticker and the box / website, but when the damn thing is not soaking, and actually making noise, that noise might be 85 decibels, and another one who doesn't do that misleading "average decibel" marketing might be 75 (and also the silent) but then lose our on sales because people just see "70" on the other one. So here, with anchors charts, well this one says poor holding and 50 knots, that one says it holds way more weight but oh, it's 30 knots (and force isn't linear in wind-- logarithmic, I think. something like that. goes up super fast-- same with decibels). Or with the electric motors-- this one says 3hp, but that's not tracking with how many watts of power at the prop for an outboard. Ok, these two match, but then the torque curve of an outboard shows you only get rated horsepower at the high RPMs, and if you want to use half power, you're really at like 1/2 the rated horsepower. Or this one has pulling power of so many pounds thrust, but it changes on different boats, so what should you use, etc.. EP Carry is very "I hate this" on their website and tried hard to refuse to play the game, but recently changed their own software /ratings to up their watts so it looks more equivalent to other people's, since people only care about the sticker on the box/website, and 1hp must be better than 0.5hp and not as good as 3hp.. Yet we all know (well some of us) that prop size also can change your RPMs, and therefore performance / where the torque goes (and so can 3 vs 4 blade), so you need to design a motor/prop setup for your boat and your goals (our dock guy has a unique setup on his work skiff, and he does crazy things with a tiny Yamaha because of it-- it's set for gear moving, dragging).

My first post ever on this site was saying "I saw my first C-Dory and the floor was squishy, and my sh*tty moisture meter said it was wet" and got SLAMMED by Bob and others for not knowing enough about moisture meters. We were both right, in that for me I didn't want a project (newborn at home), and that I had no idea a dry feeling boat could have moisture on it, etc.. So I read the Pascoe articles linked, got a book, and learned how little I knew-- I didn't close those gaps, but now my mental table of contents is much larger with more chapters I need to fill in. And there will be more chapters added to the "things Dave knows about with boating", presently perhaps in bold in your own book, and I'm looking to fill them in 80/20 along the way (what 20% of inputs yield 80% of outputs; Pareto). My wife says my "20" is way more than most people's 80, but that's just how I was raised and how my brain works. "The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, yet wiser men so full of doubt" (-george Bernard shaw). That's been a personal motto since 6th grade when I first read that. Tying back to the first post, and adding things I saw Bob write elsewhere, one goal of this forum is to promote healthy, intelligent, discourse for people, on the record. I call it "leaving it here for posterity", and so if anyone like me comes along behind, I want to leave some bread crumbs they can follow if they desire. Sadly, too many people (self included) are internet-first, and don't consider books as valuable-- "just look it up" or "just ask Claude/ChatGPT/Gemini/Grok" etc., but they're taught on the internet (and ugh, Reddit), so if it's not here, but might be in 5 obvious-to-buy books, people won't know. So, my thread went deep to hopefully get people thinking and talking, and to leave the breadcrumbs I got offline for people to follow online. (Someone even told me-- I haven't verified-- that the Rocna people, earlier in their life as a company, trolled the forums and smeared other people and brands, and basically made every thread anywhere that mentioned anchors, seem like if it wasn't a Rocna, it was inferior garbage while then doing some of the same things they made fun of others for!)

The knife-in-hand, engines-running is something I learned here from you and Bob, too. Hadn't seen that one yet, nor taken time to 'ponder' what would dragging in a storm actually look/sound like. I totally get it, at least conceptually, which helps me better understand the "sometimes you're better off at sea in the storm than at anchor". Thank you for sharing it (both of you). And thanks for the Boss recommendation.

I still need to find a main anchor now. I was so set on the Spade, that now when I go back to my runner up, the Mantus 1 (for which the $100 off sale ended Sunday, obviously-- "dear diary, screwed again..." lol) just looks huge and funny looking. There are quite a few Spades for sale on FB, but none in my size that are steel (aluminum ones don't do as well, and aren't recommended by the company itself as a primary). I'm going to look more closely at the Mantus M2 Performance (the improved but not tested by Panope) and the Vulcan again, and then at photos of Brats' boats who have them. I saw one with a 20lb Vulcan, painted yellow, and it looked like the boat had cauliflower ear on its bow. But the chart shows that's probably the right size, especially with less scope in crowded places near me, like Newport, Block Island, Camden, etc.. (the touristy places, sure, but sometimes when you're a tourist, or host of one, you want to go to touristy places). I'll also look back into what a Viking 10 costs to have imported, and how long that would take, as it's seemingly the best overall anchor on the market right now (but I don't need the best-- "you pays your money...")), but really don't want a rollbar for aesthetics and seaweed.
 
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By the way, I spent a few HOURS last night looking into chains, trying to find a "trusted' (repeating myself: trust is earned, not anointed) high quality hot dipped galvanized ISO Grade 43 (/G4) high test 1/4", made in North America... and failed. Peerless bought ACCO a while back, and there are many anecdotal reports of "this chain fully rusted in 3 years, part time use". TBD if that was the West Marine version vs private shop (several said no, was private) like "the Home Depot Version" of things can have plastic internals vs metal on the professional supply store versions, of some things. Laclede chain plays games saying in their FAQ they are ISO but when you look at the specific ISO, it's their quality control management, not for the chain. So they could in theory make substandard chain very carefully, ha. Their link dimensions and breaking strengths are the same as others, so I ultimately took a chance and went to buy some through Mantus (their US dealer for windlass chain) but it was gonna be $3.90 a foot plus over $100 to ship just 50 feet, and I said no. They also had some issues w/ galvanizing, and just because they've been making chain for 100+ years doesn't mean they're the best at it-- marine was a new thing for them, and sometimes "when the only tool you have is a hammer, everything is a nail", meaning they might have blind spots for Marine chain. Titan Chain touts itself as the big quality control people, but then you find it's CMP (/Rocna) and their rodes are "made in Canada" but with imported chain and presumably imported rope. Practical Sailor pried apart and tested a bunch of chains a while ago, and the results were inconsistent but showed the imported chain wasn't as good under extreme conditions-- generally speaking-- and had some higher deformities and less uniform production (in some cases). Things change, companies consolidate, demand is relatively inelastic (like the chain!), and so corners get cut, minimums get approached, and of course planned obsolescence like the deLorean. If you make a once a lifetime car, you only sell one car. Contrast that now to what the big makers are testing out-- subscriptions for features like heated seats. Simplifies production-- all cars get heated seats-- but if you want them, you pay a fee per month or per year. Bonus for them, once the car sells (historically), they never make money off it again apart from service. But now, whoever sells the car, they get money off it for life. It's smart, I'll give it to them, it's very smart, but I'm not ready for a car subscription yet. Oh, this being different from actual car subscriptions being tested by some of the big brands also, where it's less than a lease, and you can swap cars from a set pool of cars like renting, and for shorter periods-- subscribe to a car for the summer, etc.. A lot less than renting, a lot more than leasing. Back to chains, I ultimately said "whatever, I'm not full time, it'll be fine enough" and got 50 feet of Peerless ACCO chain (matching a 700 series lewmar spec-- ISO, grade 43 high test, verified by actual dimensions in the manual), for $3.95 a foot, free shipping from Defender. I didn't find any bargains, but in the current market and economics, it should be good enough for me personally and my demands on it.
 
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