A genuine Lewmar robust 14 lb claw anchor will fit in one fishbox (barely) with 100 ft of ½” nylon line on a ski rope winder with 4 fenders and dual engine flush hoses. We use this as our beach stern anchor with 6 feet of ⅜ SS chain since the stern is in thigh deep water at most. This allows fitting more stuff in that fishbox for daily use stuff.
It would be difficult in emergency conditions to cart that anchor and line to the bow.
AVOID anchoring from the stern in most waters….it’s not designed to face waves. Boats have capsized and boaters have drowned when just trying to pull an anchor free from the stern, which went down and filled the cockpit.
It would be difficult in emergency conditions to cart that anchor and line to the bow.
We have used that Fortress railing mount, but there was no good way to stash the rode on the TC255 other than not connected, which I agree with Bob is a poor choice for an emergency.
We decided to put more emphasis on the reliability of the primary windlass/anchor as an option. You REALLY NEED to have your windlass clutch wrench immediately handy so that if the windlass loses 12V power you simply loosen the clutch to allow the anchor to free fall to the bottom without power. Tighten the clutch and use the wrench tool to wind the anchor back up without power. Yours may be buried in the bottom of some toolbox, or not exist.
Now, what else could possibly go wrong with your windlass when you REALLY need it to work, and quickly?
In our experience with the last three trailer boats with Lewmar windlasses over 21 years is:
#1 The TC255 shallow anchor locker does not allow the 12 inch min height Lewmar advises for the chain to pyramid, if you also want over 150 feet of ½” line below that. The solution was using 100 ft of genuine US made Acco HD G43 chain connected to 20 feet of genuine Lewmar chain/ braided to 200 feet of Lewmar ½” line with a chain link. THAT is obviously our ‘weakest link’, but it’s almost never exposed to stress since we seldom use much of the 100 feet of chain. If our chain anchor rode is sawing over the edge of some ancient cement block on the bottom all night, no worries!
#2 We switched to 200 feet of genuine Lewmar 8 plait line with 20 feet of
G43 chain after the chain link. It lays very flat, the
chain/line connection slides right through the gypsy better than anything else, and no problems since.
Bob and others with vastly more cruising experience than us have posted that they never had any problems using non-Lewmar goods with Lewmar windlasses. We are an N of one, not for the last time.
Bob has an impressive tutorial on making a chain/8 plait line splice here:
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=21709
We note with humor that the ONE time we needed to anchor in an emergency (engine sputtering and dying at idle), it was in the Pensacola Pass Ship channel, the only area within 500 miles where the water is 63 feet deep (mostly dredged to 10 feet in the ICW) and the tide was rushing out at 7 MPH and our rode was not nearly enough for that at a 7:1 scope.
We once had the anchor shackle pin back out and lost while anchored off the Gulf side of Horn Island. The anchor chain alone on the bottom without the anchor held the Regal 26 in the mild surf for hours until I realized it was gradually coming in to shore. Now I wire tie SS through the pin. UV resistant black zip ties are not enough.
I like the SS 10k Mantus anchor swivel (not yet installed). We like the Manson Supreme 25# SS anchor, which has become our all-conditions go to. It pierces 10 feet of milfoil grass over the Canadian smooth granite Escarpment as well as sand, mud, grass, weeds and pebbles. Get one.
Hope you are cruising Southwest Florida and that your air conditioner is working in this 79 degree sunny weather!
Best,
John