Localboy's analysis of the break at Teahupo'o, and the skills required to ride that left, are spot on. Have not surfed since 1962; yet the principles are the same today, but board technology, the use of tow in, and the cojones demonstrated by top surfers far exceed anything even world class boardheads did in the 1960's.
Looked to me like stand up paddle gear allowed paddlers to catch the swell before it went critical. The guys using short boards, even Malibu length boards have to hit it just right to avoid an over the falls thrash. Their greater maneuverability once up is an advantage, but there is only one line on that left break.
That green boat appears to have lost a couple passengers, one visible as a swimmer. A bad place to be swimming, with outboards at close quarters, and that almost a slab break at your back. Watching that video gives me the chills.