SO WHAT DID YOU DO WITH OR ON YOUR C-DORY TODAY??

Installed Kodiak Prolube oil bath system. The one axle I used the complete kit, including the blue prolube oil. The other axle I just bought the oil bath body and cap and used Valvoline Synthetic 75-90 oil. The seals that come in the kit are not the right size anyway. I've used the Valvoline oil in other oil bath bearings and it works great. That kind of oil is also recommended as an approved oil for oil bath bearings. Colby

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We bought new rubber for the trailer! At 36 months from purchase and 40 months from DOT mfgr date stamp, we had a sidewall structural failure on a Goodyear Endurance tire enroute to the Hontoon Hoot in March 2021. I noticed a grapefruit sized bulge on a port tire in the rearview mirror, and had time to think ‘WTH is THAT? We need to pull over.” We were on a long bridge on the FL turnpike, and the tire monitor system alarm went off within 10-15 seconds for falling pressure (normal temp) in that tire. By the time we got off the turnpike on the shoulder and stopped, pressure had fallen to 8 PSI. At least it wasn’t an explosive blowout, as all of our four non-Goodyear Endurance trailer tires explosions were prior to switching.

As always, the other port axle tire was exposed to 200% of rating during the failure and replacement should be considered. The spare had been repaired after a misadventure with a nail, and one tire has been slowing losing pressure though my tire guy could not find a leak.

We’re planning a 2,300 trailer miles NY Finger Lakes/W Erie canal adventure in early July 2021. If not for that, we might have delayed replacement (right at a Boat Unit). However, it can be very difficult to find these tires in this 10-ply E range capacity on the road, and the rig simply can’t enter most local tire shops.

Good Luck trailering!
PM me if you are starting the Finger Lakes/W Erie canal trip in early July (we launch at Pirate’s Cove, Paul gives good rig storage rates and is the on-site owner).

John
 
We will look forward to your report on the Eire and Finger Lakes. We hope to be there in the Sept. time frame. Is there any possible that there had been a "bump" to that tire, such as going over a curb on a turn etc? Not good news that an Endurance has a side wall issue. Trailer tire sidewalls are stiffer and stronger than regular car or truck tires. Glad you were able to safely get to the side of the road.
 
gulfcoast john":374m88gl said:
We were on a long bridge on the FL turnpike, and the tire monitor system alarm went off within 10-15 seconds for falling pressure (normal temp) in that tire. By the time we got off the turnpike on the shoulder and stopped, pressure had fallen to 8 PSI. At least it wasn’t an explosive blowout, as all of our four non-Goodyear Endurance trailer tires explosions were prior to switching.
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I didn't know TMS on a trailer was a thing... tell me more. Is that something you added? Seems like a good idea. Glad things worked out OK.
 
garyf I didn't know TMS on a trailer was a thing... tell me more. Is that something you added? Seems like a good idea. Glad things worked out OK.[/quote said:
Many of us have tire pressure and temperature monitors on our trailer tires. I have been using this for many years. Same monitors as you use on the truck, if it an older one which does not have internal sensors.

The sensor screws on the valve stem instead of a cap. Some are flow thru, others are just the sensor, which has to be removed if you need to add air.

For some monitors you have to have metal stems. There are also internal tire monitors, but I consider the external accurate enough.

Even with the sensors, I do a walk around the trailer every 2 hours, and either feel the hubs or use an IR thermometer to check for hub temperature. The ones on the sunny side will slow a slightly higher temperature,
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Built a fish fillet table today....should be able to use it for the Honda 1000, camp stove, or whatever. Built with 1/2" Starboard using the existing Scotty rod holder mounts and a center support. Easily removable.

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thataway":zi4uvzxh said:
Many of us have tire pressure and temperature monitors on our trailer tires. I have been using this for many years. Same monitors as you use on the truck, if it an older one which does not have internal sensors.

The sensor screws on the valve stem instead of a cap. Some are flow thru, others are just the sensor, which has to be removed if you need to add air.

For some monitors you have to have metal stems. There are also internal tire monitors, but I consider the external accurate enough.

Even with the sensors, I do a walk around the trailer every 2 hours, and either feel the hubs or use an IR thermometer to check for hub temperature. The ones on the sunny side will slow a slightly higher temperature,
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My tow vehicle is older so doesn't have built in TMS... I'll dig around and see what it takes to add an aftermarket unit. I hadn't thought about that - didn't know they existed!

I do have a IR thermometer and have been checking the hubs. As you say, I've noticed a pretty wide range depending on ambient temp and sun up / sun down. I'm mainly watching for consistency and so far both hubs on each side (two axle trailer) have been within a few degrees of each other and I think the highest temp I've seen was around 110F. Do you have any specific criteria? What temp would automatically cause you concern?
 
About 20 to 30* above ambient temp is normal. If one hub is 30* higher than others--that is also a problem. Shoot both the hubs, and disc brakes.

I have used Tire Minder and Tire Safe Guard, But there are a number of good systems. I had the tire safeguard on a large diesel pusher RV, towing the Yukon--even though the Yukon has built in sensors, I used the remote reading when towing it.

Currently I am using Tire minder on the trailer, My F 250 has Built in monitors.
 
Yes, Bob, I have kissed a few curbs, some of them long, slobbering wet kisses associated with some moaning; run over some curbs and done many things I didn’t mean to do to these long-suffering trailer tires. I’m still happy with them so far. The National Trailer Tire Sidewall Abuse Hot Line has my number on their speed-dial.

Gary,
I’ve used these over the past 20 years with two 11,000 lb rigs, made for up to 22 tires and mainly used by pro truckers. Excellent US tech support and a sensor trade-in program.
https://tsttruck.com/507-series-4-flow- ... -ft-4.html
Sensor batteries are not user replaceable, but last over 5 years, longer if you remove sensors from the valve stem (that shuts down transmitting). Since one failure on my rig often means replacing 2 tires at $400, it has paid for itself several times over by detecting small punctures early. Other Brats have found much less expensive monitors. Agree with Bob on temp ranges. Mounting your spare tire on a spare hub is a fairly good idea so you’re not trying to find one in Montebello, Quebec on a Sunday and your high school French has gotten rusty. Consider carrying a grease gun and spare grease of the same type that’s in your hubs now.

Happy trailering!
John
 
FWIW, I switched over to oil bath from grease on my new Loadrite trailer and as was the case on my earlier boat and trailer, I'm showing temps in the 80-90 degree range. (83 on my latest trip with OAT in the 60's. However, on my earlier trailer, even on hot days I was not showing more than about 95 with the oil bath. With the grease I was showing 115-125, depending upon outside temps. Colby
 
gulfcoast john;

There are two things a trailer boater has done: gone aground and run the tyres over a curb or something you're not supposed to. Otherwise, you're not a real trailer boater. It's hard to go aground on a C-Dory, ever the Tomcat, but I got that out of the way early in my career. Running over curbs, etc. is just SOP these days.

The trailer tyres on Journey On never had a slow leak, they just blew up. Can't blame the hubs though.

Boris
 
Today we went on a cruise. High 82, water 78, winds 5-10, calm seas.

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We saw a group of baby Atlantic bottle-nose dolphins being taught how to encircle and attack balls of baitfish.

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For those who like statistics, here they are for this cruise:

Home to marina: 1.45 miles
UV Index: 11
Origin: Sherman Cove marina, slip B-9
Destination: Fort McRee cove, East Battery
Total Round Trip Miles: 2.3 (statute)
Fuel Combined Totalizer 1.3g
Total Fuel Cost (RaceTrac) $4.16
Eng temps: 117/118
Avg SOG 4.2 MPH
Max SOG: 6.4 MPH
ENG HRS: 0.46
Lunch: Boar’s Head Roast Beef sandwiches
Beach Walk: 6.01 miles
Beach Walk Avg SOG: 3.10 MPH

Hope you are also on a mega Cruise on your boat!

We are trying now to decide whether to do it again tomorrow!

Cheers!
John
 
My TC255 transom 16x24” 2009 Pompanette hatches had deep mold and gray stains that would not scrub away, and UV damage. Replacements for purely cosmetic reasons was $115 each.

A $64 each 16x24” cheapo option is here:

https://www.amazon.com/SEAFLO-Marine-De ... w_crs_wish

Instead, after removing the 8 screws that secure the hatches, I tried a $8 can of Rust Oleum Gloss White Primer + Paint after prep with Krud Cutter and paint thinner. I sprayed two good coats on each side of both hatches.

I am amazed at how well that worked! Two coats on both inside and outside, and the hatches look like new, even after several weeks of tough saltwater heavy duty! No flaking or scuffing!

My original great idea was to run them through a hot dishwater cycle with some Clorox, but She Who Must Be Obeyed nixed that great idea instantly. In retrospect, I don’t think it would have done any good, anyway. (Just another example of why She Must Be Obeyed, if you need one).

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CC Rider,
Very nice job on the shelf.

But you need to spray paint that grungy transom hatch!

John
 
The Park Service is installing more vertical rub rails on docks in the Apostle Islands. This is text from their website:

"Vertical rub rails are now installed on many of the Park docks. They are to keep large boats from going over the docks and small boats from going under the docks with changing lake levels. Vertical Rub-Rails provide, moorings for boats of all sizes, flexibility for changing lake levels, and strength and longevity. They do work with traditional fenders and are intended to help prevent damage to vessels and the docks."

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Am not widely experienced in docking yet, but have found these rails difficult when trying to place my 8 in fenders - used horizontally. Likely, there is a better way. Instead, I made this PVC fender board, hoping to save time and better protect the hull.

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More picts in my album.

Any suggestions for tying up to these types of docks? or fender board use?
 
I've found that the trick with docks that have posts on the outside of the decking is to hang the fender in a horizontal orientation from the post, not from the boat. This works for me as long as the spacing of the posts is ~1/2 the length of a CD22 or less.
 
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