SJI Trip

CDory23

New member
Hi all,

I know there is a wealth of information and resources on this forum regarding the San Juan island area. I'm planning on taking a research/pleasure trip soon to see this area for myself to further my investigation on potential investment/vacation/retirement property. I'm young (33), but want to get ahead of the game in seeing if this area is a good fit and trying to secure property if it is.

My past experiences in the state have only been a short trip to Seattle which included a day trip to Bainbridge. My Fiancee and I loved it and felt the scenery on the sound was gorgeous. We are looking for waterfront property (or a place close to harbor to keep a boat in the water) with a happy medium of feeling isolated but not being completely desolate. Being somewhat close to a downtown area with shops/modern conveniences is a must for the Fiancee. I figured Friday Harbor area would be good place to start. I'm looking to stay between 5 and 7 nights.

If anybody has any input to make this trip smoother and or recommend areas I should see I would appreciate it. Some input that would be really helpful would be tips on the best way to get there in general with maybe some other stops along the way that could interest us. It seems small aircraft or Ferry would be my 2 options.

I currently live in the SF bay area and plan to stay living here until retirement. My main interests in the area include the fishing, crabbing, boating, and sight seeing. Reading back on my post it sounds as if I'm looking for the best of all worlds. This is purely a trip to see for myself if this area is a good "fit". My opinion on what I"m looking for could vastly change depending on what is offered and price points on land/homes. Perhaps the area just isn't right for us, or perhaps a Condo would be more practical.

Thanks all,
Brian
 
A close friend from S. Calif. bought a vacant lot on Obstruction Island in 1967. He started by camping there for vacation yearly. They bought a 15 foot Boston Whaler in 1967. That boat is on its 8th outboard. The "Cruised" the San Juans and Gulf Islands often, with a fold out platform on the boat which would contain a tent for sleeping. Next was an platform for the tent, and water to the property--then a generator, and finally power. Along the way, they built an "A" frame. That became a guest house and shop when they built their retirement home. They retired in the early 2000 era, and live there half the year. They still use the Whaler daily.

The point i am making is that it is a great way to buy property, use it yearly, and gradually build for retirement.

I would advise traveling by ferry, go to all of the Islands...but better yet, why not take your boat up there, and really do an in depth analysis of what is available. Our first trip (I had gone with my parents in the 50's) was with an Rv and a 12' aluminum boat, so we could explore at least some of the water side. That is very important. Also by boat, you can reach some of the areas, which are off the beaten track.

There are many who know a lot more about the Islands, including a number of c Brats who live there. I am sure they will give you excellent information.

To me a Condo would be the antithesis of the San Juan Islands experience...
 
Hi Brian. My wife and I worked in the San Juans and love the area. You are right in Friday Harbor being the "hub" for commerce, but it is still a very small town. There are two grocery stores and a good selection of restaurants, but shopping and other "city amenities" are limited.

There are two ways onto San Juan Island: boat (Washington State Ferry or personal boat) or plane (floatplane or wheels). Kenmore Air is the main air service provider, but there are others out of Bellingham and Anacortes (all small, single engine). If you want to have your car with you, Washington Ferry is your only option. The ferry services 4 (of the 172) islands: San Juan Island, Orcas Island, Lopez Island, and Shaw Island. You board the ferry to the San Juans from Anacortes (allow about 90 minutes drive time from Seattle).

Being from San Francisco, you will already be familiar with the real estate prices in the San Juans. The line often used for people who live on SJI: people who have a third home there, and people who have 3 jobs to afford rent there... a bit simplistic, but not far from accurate.

As far as scenery, there are beautiful vistas everywhere you look. Spectacular wildlife. Real estate with a view of the water will be more expensive than inland. Real estate with immediate water access will be outrageous. We lived on our boat there for 3 summers, and in our motorhome (on privately rented land) for another two... we are pretty familiar with life there.

Over the years, we have visited many of the islands there. While the San Juans are conveniently close to Anacortes or Bellingham to make weekends from those places very doable, you could spend years exploring all the great places in and around the San Juans. If I were picking a place to have a home, it would be on San Juan Island or Orcas Island, since they offer reasonable access to get to the mainland. Some of the islands do not have utility services (power, water, sewer), so you are truly "off the grid." That sounds romantic... some may not think so.

For some perspective: our home is on an island in south Texas. I understand the appeal of "end of the road" towns (Key West, South Padre Island, Friday Harbor, Telluride, etc). Friday Harbor is 22 miles by ferry from Anacortes (mainland). You can't just run to Walmart or Target. Expect food prices to be 25 to 50% more expensive in the San Juans, since everything has to come in by ferry. If you buy "multi-trip" passes for the ferry, you will still be spending $50 or more each time you take your car on/off island.

Summers (late June through September) are absolutely glorious weather-wise. Winters (for this warm-weather loving boy) are tough: wind, rain/drizzle, and a lot of gray skies.

If you are doing a "discovery trip" there, I think you will need to have a vehicle on-island, meaning: plan to use the ferry. If you are only going to Friday Harbor, you can do a walk-on for the ferry or Kenmore Air small plane. Much of Friday Harbor is comfortably walkable, and there are private taxis.

Good luck with checking out the area. My experience has been there are two types of people who go there: those who just want to see it and are anxious to get back to civilization; and those who are captivated by all that area offers and are drawn back to live or frequently visit.

Hope that helps.
Jim
 
Do some real estate homework before you go. Look at Zillow.co; pull up the various Islands on their map. Zoom in on the map until it shows a satellite view and property lines. At this point it will show most of the estimated values of the property and what is for sale--and price.

I like Orcas Island, and particularly the Deer Harbor area, since there is at least one marina there. We have loved to bicycle and walk over the roads--and it is very rural and relatively lightly populated. There are lots for sale inland, away from Marinas, for as low as $129,000. Traveling around, we often saw land for sale by owner, which was not listed on MLS.

On obstruction Island there is a nice 1205 sq. ft.one bedroom cabin, with 400' of waterfront, and over 3 acres, with their own cove & beach for $399,000. There are community docks and moorings. It is close to the South Eastern point of Orcas Island, where you can leave a vehicle at a resort, when on the Island. Oracas is a 10 minute boat ride, and then about a 5 mile drive to Island Market for groceries. Expensive? Compare this with places in the millions on the larger islands. You can have a small car or ATV type on Obstruction Island.
 
cdory23,
the san juan's can be as remote or as busy as a big city, depending on where you are and what time of year. living part time you will not enjoy the real folks and there are many great people here. the islands depend on community spirt to survive and grow. we went to our third concert last night and enjoyed some really professional and personal folks you could ever want to meet. (on island)
in general, orcas has the best views as it is more mountainous. good shopping and a nice village.
san juan is the county seat and is more like a small town in country, with plenty of shopping , food, bars, heck it even has a brewery now. there are some really beautiful views and several marinas to slip at. the north end has roach Harbor a very busy marina . Friday harbor is fun as you can boat in tie up and you are at the edge of town
Lopez is where i live, it is farm rural and very quiet. fisherman bay is a great place to boat into with a marina, the islander resort and galley restaurant.
the existing houses are something like 45 years old average,lots are not cheap and building is even less cheap.
going to town for the box stores is a bit of a pain but most do it every month or so. We use the sea plane (Kenmore ) to arrive at any of the islands. If you fly into san Juan, you can rent a car from the used car lot on spring street, then travel all the islands.
don't for get places like Squim, port Townsend, Whidbey island for a peak too.
I am good for conversation any tome and can give only my slant of it.. :-)
john
 
We spend time on Orcas Island each summer and keep the C Dory in Deer Harbor. Feel free to email or send me a PM with specific questions and I will do my best to answer them.

If you buy vacant land be sure to have a good understanding of both the covenants and the San Juan County Building Codes and septic system requirements. The county carefully regulates building and there are numerous requirements for setbacks from water front, existing roads, lot lines etc. And the parcel acreage required for a septic system is important to know along with required room for a back up system should the primary system fail. There are also restrictions for environmental reasons on some parcels. Building there can be complicated. Construction costs per square foot are very high as building materials come over by boat and good craftsman can be expensive. Some roads are private and hence have annual maintenance fees. I know of one waterfront lot that is very attractive but when all the requirements are met the area available for the building is a narrow and long rectangle. Doable but not what a prospective buyer may have in mind.

That said, it is a beautiful place to spend time and we had a great time exploring for several years before buying.

The outer non ferry islands are very attractive but it is a different lifestyle requiring a place to keep a car on a larger island (as Bob noted) and also a place to tie up a boat when using the car. The outer islands typically have no services and most often no utilities.

Anacortes provides many options, beautiful scenery and marinas, great shopping and restaurants and excellent access but has a different feel than living on one of the islands.

Guemes Island is serviced by a short ride on a county owned and operated ferry and has the island feel while being only a few minutes by ferry from Anacortes.

Bob and James have given some great info so no need to repeat that here. Good luck and let me know if I can provide further info. Have a blast looking around as it is a wonderful place to explore both by land and sea!

Phil
 
I wanted to tag onto John's comments (from Lopez Island). We have met some wonderful year round residents on the islands. There are some great people that live there and it is worth the time and involvement in local activities to get to know them. Some of the cultural activities on the islands are absolutely top notch, easily accessible and affordable. There is musical and theatrical talent that arrives from major cities for performances as well as wonderful talent from the locals that have come from a variety of walks in life to settle there. Again, have fun exploring and getting to know the islands and their residents!
 
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