RayMarine EV-100 Autopilot Installation
- Thread starter colbysmith
- Start date
colbysmith
Active member
It all helps Harvey! Thanks. As of today, I am leaning towards mounting everything under the helm seat. But that might change tomorrow. 
Colby
Colby
colbysmith
Active member
Ok, think I'm nailing down some things in the planning stage.
With reference to the photo below, I think I will move the Anchor Windless switch to below the steering wheel. Then I can move the Trim Tabs switch down to where the Windless switch was. Plan to put the P70R Autopilot control head then where the trim tabs switch currently shows in the photo. May try to move the speaker over to the port side of the boat, but have to look at that later. I can get around the speaker, but it sure would open up a lot of room both on the front and back of the bulkhead.
Still feel that the rest of the Autopilot components can be installed under the helm seat, as I have plenty of room there.
Now, regarding the Seatalk network planning, below is a picture of current plans.
At this point, I'm also planning on putting the network power cable on a switched circuit. (I understand otherwise the network is always drawing a minute bit of power.) The question I have is should the ACU-100 be on a switched circuit also, so it's not always "on". (The ACU-100 does not power the network, nor receive power from the network. It has it's own power cable.) Colby
With reference to the photo below, I think I will move the Anchor Windless switch to below the steering wheel. Then I can move the Trim Tabs switch down to where the Windless switch was. Plan to put the P70R Autopilot control head then where the trim tabs switch currently shows in the photo. May try to move the speaker over to the port side of the boat, but have to look at that later. I can get around the speaker, but it sure would open up a lot of room both on the front and back of the bulkhead.
Still feel that the rest of the Autopilot components can be installed under the helm seat, as I have plenty of room there.
Now, regarding the Seatalk network planning, below is a picture of current plans.
At this point, I'm also planning on putting the network power cable on a switched circuit. (I understand otherwise the network is always drawing a minute bit of power.) The question I have is should the ACU-100 be on a switched circuit also, so it's not always "on". (The ACU-100 does not power the network, nor receive power from the network. It has it's own power cable.) Colby
Hello Colby,
Before you carve up your helm, consider using a RAM mount for the p70R. I used something like this
I mounted the control head to a small board which was mounted to the RAM assembly. You could fix the base to the righthand side of the dash and then adjust it's height to your comfort and viewing angle. With the rotary knob, you can "steer" the boat with just the knob, so locating the unit within easy reach is important.
Fair Winds and Auto pilots,
dave
Before you carve up your helm, consider using a RAM mount for the p70R. I used something like this
I mounted the control head to a small board which was mounted to the RAM assembly. You could fix the base to the righthand side of the dash and then adjust it's height to your comfort and viewing angle. With the rotary knob, you can "steer" the boat with just the knob, so locating the unit within easy reach is important.
Fair Winds and Auto pilots,
dave
colbysmith
Active member
Thanks Dave. I'll have to consider that. I don't have a lot more room on top the "dash", but I also hate cutting holes in fiberglass. Colby
jkidd
Active member
SGIDave":1yflj7vz said:Hello Colby,
Before you carve up your helm, consider using a RAM mount for the p70R. I used something like this
I mounted the control head to a small board which was mounted to the RAM assembly. You could fix the base to the righthand side of the dash and then adjust it's height to your comfort and viewing angle. With the rotary knob, you can "steer" the boat with just the knob, so locating the unit within easy reach is important.
Fair Winds and Auto pilots,
dave
X2
colbysmith
Active member
I'll have to take a look and see how much room I really have there. Otoh, other than moving a few things and drilling more holes, I almost prefer installation in the dash.
colbysmith
Active member
We had a heat wave here today at 27 degrees, so decided to go do a few things on my boat. Got the Autopilot control panel mounted; ended up putting it on the port side of the helm. Also removed the two smaller fuse panels I had and replaced with a larger one. Moved the speaker that was located just below and to the left side of the Helm. (Placed it under the aft dinette seat). Unfortunately, in the process of moving the trim tab switch, I managed to break the pins on the back. Repaired them this evening, and will have to wait for a warmer day to see if it's going to work. Also managed to bust my main switch panel on the helm while trying to drill a few more holes into it for some additional switches. Guess that's what I get for trying to do this now.... :-( Soooo, now I need to fabricate or buy a new panel. Anyone already know what make and model this is? Colby
colbysmith
Active member
Another heat wave in the midwest, as we climbed up to mid 30's today.... Finished up my rewiring project. Ended up just making a new switch panel. Here are some photos of the switch panel, and the wiring "mess" behind it. A little cleaner than before, but not much... :-( Also pretty proud of myself for replacing a pilot lamp led in one of the original switches. The LED had burned out in the cabin light switch. I was able to buy a $2 LED, take the switch apart and rebuild it. 
Colby
Colby
colbysmith
Active member
Another warm and sunny day at 27 degrees.....so I finished mounting the EV1, Hydraulic Pump and ACU. All three are under the helm seat. Because the forward bulkhead under the seat is pretty thin, I brought the screws through from the front. This was a bitch on the EV1, as it had no room for using a socket to tighten the nuts. I was however able to wedge a screw driver against the nut to hold it while tightening the screw. All the wires and seatalk cable are also hooked up, however I need to ziptie and secure them. Still have to finish plumbing the hydraulic pump lines at the helm pump also.
colbysmith
Active member
Initially, as I was having problems with getting to the nuts inside the EV1 mount, I was beginning to think about just flush mounting it over to the right of the helm seat, on top of the compartment. However, back to the installation manual said not to locate it near wires or magnetic fields. Since I have a lot of wiring running down the starboard side of the boat there, I elected to just continue messing with getting it mounted where I did. C-dorys aren't exactly "big" boats, so hard to give 3 foot from anything. I'm not worried about anybody walking by with a knife or other ferrous object here. Nor do I think I'd be using the autopilot if precise navigation is necessary, without being right there to disconnect it.
I'm not worried about anybody walking by with a knife or other ferrous object here. Nor do I think I'd be using the autopilot if precise navigation is necessary, without being right there to disconnect it. thataway":2ykiwdlc said:
I have found the EV1 sensor to be MORE sensitive to magnetic fields than the old black cylindrical heading sensor that was supplied with Raymarine APs. That's just MY experience, however.
Being able to see the LED on top of the EV1 is handy; what color is showing; whether it is blinking, etc. The LEDs are especially important if you have troubles during set up. After my experience (I had to relocate the EV1 due to interference), I would recommend a 'soft' or temporary installation first to make sure it works OK then fix it properly.
Your work looks very nice and clean!
/david
If you are or your family are the only folks on the boat--then most likely no worry with magnetic items. I have had several instances when Helmsmen on my racing boats had ferrous knives on their belts or in a pocket, and it would put the compass off significantly.
With an auto pilot, it would depend on the response time, and if there was a delay circuit. But sudden deviation of a heading sensor, could be an issue. Since there is the 9 axis sensor, it may have some compensation to prevent sudden helm changes. But be sure that is not an issue, in other words, at least test it, when you are putting along at a slow speed, and see what happens.
Certainly mounting a heading sensor in the C Dory is always an issue. One would think that up under the V berth would be ideal, but then many of us put "gear" up there during the day--and one never knows.
With an auto pilot, it would depend on the response time, and if there was a delay circuit. But sudden deviation of a heading sensor, could be an issue. Since there is the 9 axis sensor, it may have some compensation to prevent sudden helm changes. But be sure that is not an issue, in other words, at least test it, when you are putting along at a slow speed, and see what happens.
Certainly mounting a heading sensor in the C Dory is always an issue. One would think that up under the V berth would be ideal, but then many of us put "gear" up there during the day--and one never knows.
colbysmith
Active member
I was kind of worried about not being able to see that "led" on top the EV1. Don't even think there is room for use of a small mirror, as I've only got about an inch between the top of it, and the top of the compartment. I debated on installing this stuff under the vberth, on the helm bulkhead, but just decided the compartment under the seat would be ideal. The only other option I gave for the Ev-1 was flush mounted on top the dash, up by the forward center window. That is still an option if where I have it under the helm seat doesn't work out. (I suppose I could mount it lower in the compartment, however I store life jackets in this compartment, so placing the EV-1 high, keeps it above those.)
On my boat the Ray Marine autopilot electronic compass is mounted on the port side under the cabin sole just in front of where one would place their feet while sitting in the forward port seat. For the most part, this has not been a problem but I do have to warn people not to place bags of fishing gear there while we are running at speed on autopilot or trolling with a lot of gear out. I've seen deviations of 30 (or more) degrees when something ferrous is placed nearby and than can be quite a surprise at 25kts!
A slightly more interesting (and somewhat funny) problem occurred when I had the washdown pump installed at EQ Marine. Carl wound up putting the hot wire to up the port side and across to a fuse behind the dash but used a ground bus bar mounted on the transom. Since the feed to the fuse system behind the helm came up the starboard side, the net result was that whenever someone turned on the washdown pump, the current draw flowed in a circle around the sensor and sent us off course by 30-50 degrees. This invariably happened while we were trolling and just landed a fish but still had downriggers or gear deployed on at least one side. I'd have to yell at my buddy to tell me when he was going to use the washdown so I could disengage the autopilot prior to washdown use. Of course, I rewired the pump to get rid of the current loop at the first opportunity. Still it was kind of amusing at the time - especially as my fishing buddy LOVES to use the washdown.
A slightly more interesting (and somewhat funny) problem occurred when I had the washdown pump installed at EQ Marine. Carl wound up putting the hot wire to up the port side and across to a fuse behind the dash but used a ground bus bar mounted on the transom. Since the feed to the fuse system behind the helm came up the starboard side, the net result was that whenever someone turned on the washdown pump, the current draw flowed in a circle around the sensor and sent us off course by 30-50 degrees. This invariably happened while we were trolling and just landed a fish but still had downriggers or gear deployed on at least one side. I'd have to yell at my buddy to tell me when he was going to use the washdown so I could disengage the autopilot prior to washdown use. Of course, I rewired the pump to get rid of the current loop at the first opportunity. Still it was kind of amusing at the time - especially as my fishing buddy LOVES to use the washdown.
colbysmith
Active member
Definitely can't mount it on the port side. That's where my stereo and one of the speakers are...plus that's the side I dump my gear on.
smckean (Tosca)
New member
rogerbum,
Very interesting. I know electronics, but I never would have thought of the potential effects of constructing a current loop (i.e., magnetism).
Very interesting. I know electronics, but I never would have thought of the potential effects of constructing a current loop (i.e., magnetism).
There is a real issue with wiring and autopilots. Any single wire connector can be an issue. Best to have dual leads, twisted and then shielded to ground, near the auto pilot--or compass. Compensate, both with and with out circuits on and off.
There is an issue with "ground loops" and current flowing to give an issue.
Radios can be a real issue when you transmit--more so on HF/SSB than VHF, but VHF can be an issue, with autopilots.
There is an issue with "ground loops" and current flowing to give an issue.
Radios can be a real issue when you transmit--more so on HF/SSB than VHF, but VHF can be an issue, with autopilots.