Question about re-gluing seams on an inflatable dinghy...

JamesTXSD

Active member
Hi C-Brat friends,

Yesterday, I had our inflatable out to clean Wild Blue's bottom. Herb, from Willie's Tug offered me the use of his lift...

http://captnjim.blogspot.com/2013/01/bo ... l-tip.html

At one point, the dinghy started filling up with water. I thought it might be coming from the powerwasher I was using, but later discovered that the seams had come apart on both sides where the floor meets the tubes! I guess I'm fortunate that I didn't go right out the bottom of the dinghy!

So, today I'm about to try to re-glue the floor back to the tubes. I bought a 2 part epoxy made for this, I've cleaned up the long area, but when "test fitting," I can't get the seams to line up. If the tubes are fully inflated, I can't stretch the floor far enough; if the tubes are slightly deflated, I can line up the pieces, but there are puckers. This is my first go-round with inflatable repair, so... is there a technique I should be using?

I found plenty of info on-line for leak repairs, but very little about re-gluing the seams (no air leak), where the floor is glued to the

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
Not easy to do. Even professionals have difficulty with bottom seams. The guy in the camp site next to us has a "Sea Eagle" and is also having some bottom seam problems. Not sure about the epoxy--but you need a glue specific to the fabric you are using--Hypalon VS PVC. You have to get the area very clean. I suggested one of the Fein tool variants with a scotch type pad on it. I have used MEK as a solvent for cleaning--but it will dissolve some of the surface PvC if using that. All old glue and any sediment needs to be removed.

Not sure how you would use a ratchet strap--but the expansion of the floor and tubes will be different. I would try and do short segments at a time, with the boat deflated. clamping is very difficult with a soft bottom boat--but I have used batons, and clamps, to hold in place as the glue dries.

Put "hash" marks so you can line up each segment and won't' have any left over or be shy at the end of the gluing process. I have found that in transom to fabric that 5200 will work as well, or better than the glues--but again not easy.
 
Bill K":1c2m6yn5 said:
This is just an idea.
What about using a 20'long x 2" ratchet strap and going around the inflatable ?

Bill Kelleher

Hi Bill,

The problem isn't holding the floor on, the issue is getting the seam to lay flat long enough to stick. The floor is flexible pvc, as are the tubes.I may try duct tape, going inch by inch... glue a little, try to hold it in place with the tape, repeat... a bunch of times.

Looking on inflatable sites, it sounds as this is not for the "amateur"... I would classify my inflatable repair experience as: none. One inflatable dealer said that they don't try these repairs, they send 'em back to the manufacturer. I don't even know how much I don't know! :roll:

"Test fitting" showed us that inflated all the way doesn't work. Uninflated doesn't work... tomorrow, I will try partially, mostly, but not quite all the way inflated. :wink: Worst case scenerio: I'm out the $27 for the epoxy. Well, OK, the worst case scenerio is I'm out $27 for the epoxy, I accidentally get glue on my hands, try to indiscreetly pick my nose, get my finger stuck in there, have to go to the half-ass medical clinic here, and some guy with a mail order medical certificate knocks me out, gets his cousin a new kidney, and I still have my finger stuck in my nose. Other than that, what could possibly go wrong? :twisted:

Here's a look...

DinghySeamE.jpg

The manufacturers probably put these together with a jig that stretches it all into place, uninflated. We'll see how a deck and a patio table work. :wink:

Best wishes,
Jim
 
You need to use the correct glue for the material your dinghy is made of. For PVC this is similar to contact cement. Hypalon uses a different glue. The 2-part Hypalon glues are reputed to be better.

When gluing PVC the surface is softened and the PVC bonds together. Hypalon glue works as an adhesive between the two surfaces.

PVC will bond very quickly so you may be able to just hold the seams together long enough to get the material set then you ca deflate the tubes as much as necessary for curing.

In either case the temperature and humidity must be correct when gluing and curing the glue. Excess humidity will weaken the bond in both cases.

Repair kits can be found at http://shop.inflatableboatparts.com/home.php and http://www.defender.com/
 
Hmmm...this is one of those Seinfeld moments when he says to George about something that Kramer has come up with: "Oh, this is going to work out really well.":):)

Please make a video of the first post-repair test on the water. (Only want to see it if it turns out bad. Like going to the NASCAR races).
 
We know that it is a West Marine/Zodiac PVC, slat floor. Is one side still good on the seam? If so you can measure, and put hash marks on both fabrics bottom and tubes, equal to the hash marks on the other side. Another issue, is spreading of the beam between the two pontoons, and also marking exactly where the floor is on each side (even if the dinghy is not quite symetrical--it makes no difference down the line--but you can match up the bottom with no pucker...

Many of these boats use "welded" seams, rather than being "glued" in manufacture. The boats are manufactured as flat--not inflated boat, until the transom is applied.

Is this a contact type of glue--or a longer set up epoxy? Many inflatable glues are two part, but not epoxy.

Another thought--but Eternabond tape which is used on RV's seems to stick very well on PVC fabrics--it might be worth taping out the seams with Eternabond on the outside, and then slipping the glue in place and clamping.

Sort of thinking outside of the boat--before I fly down there and grab that kidney--I am pretty good at replacing kidneys, but not so good at getting sticky fingers out of the nose!
 
I managed to re glue the floor on my Zodiak. Ended up with one small pucker which dos not leak.
You must use the correct glue.
Some inflatables are pvc and some hypolian, different glue I am thinking.
You might want to farm this one out.
Jerry
 
Here is a grea fix. Might be a little harder to lift up on top.

DSCN1268.jpg


RESTORED VINTAGE LAPSTRAKE PRAM -$650

This little cutie was completely refinished recently at Island Boatshop and it’s ready to go. Cedar planking, oak frames, 7-1/2’ overall, with a set of oars.
E-mail
Marty@islandboatshop.com
if you have questions.
 
A pretty problem.
Does the Blonde have any thoughts on this, beyond 'here we go again'?

A dinghy guy I'm not, but I do speak epoxy fluently (I once stayed at a Motel 6 right down the street from the Gougeon Brothers boat factory)

All levity aside I would not be tempted to put a brittle epoxy onto a flexible surface. How about calling a maker of PVC dinghy's and getting their advice?

denny-o
btw, there is a pretty good Hooter's just up the street from Gougeon Brothers. First round is on me.
 
Walldog":2ys1qlat said:
Here is a grea fix. Might be a little harder to lift up on top.

DSCN1268.jpg


RESTORED VINTAGE LAPSTRAKE PRAM -$650

This little cutie was completely refinished recently at Island Boatshop and it’s ready to go. Cedar planking, oak frames, 7-1/2’ overall, with a set of oars.
E-mail
Marty@islandboatshop.com
if you have questions.
Yep - after you get done gluing the dingy seams, inflate it, put it inside this pram and you'll be sure to stay dry. :lol:
 
I appreciate the suggestions. Didn't get a chance to get to the dinghy yesterday... a trip to the aforementioned clinic intervened. No, I didn't glue my finger in my nose, just a routine visit to get a prescription renewed; when I said something about the number of people in the waiting room to the young lady at the front desk, she told me the wait would be "about 45 minutes." That would be 45 minutes in a room full of coughing, wheezing, dis.... well, that turned into a 3 1/2 hour wait, so it shot the hell out of any desire to deal with the dinghy.

Fortunately, the Blonde suggested some boat time... which turned my frown upside down. :wink:

Here's a link...

http://captnjim.blogspot.com/2013/01/th ... story.html

I may take on the dinghy today... maybe. :roll:
 
Only three and a half hours. Jeez, that guy is a piker.
In my prime I could keep people waiting for days.
They would have siblings and cousins come in on a rotating basis to hold their seat in the waiting room.
The local Jimmy Johns parked a food trailer on the road by my driveway and were open 24 hours.
The local towing company kept a kid nearby with a jump starter to service the vehicles that had been parked in my lot so long the battery was dead.
We had a lady deliver her baby in the waiting room, sent the baby home with her sister and refused to give up her seat. When the mother finally got home the kid was already talking, except it refused to speak to the mother because she was a stranger.

So, how did I keep my "customers" you might ask.
Well, the answer is that the office call was only $2.
People fought for a seat in my office for a $2 office call.
Of course, they only did it once. When they got to the checkout window they were smiling over the $2 fee, till they discovered that parking in my lot was $30 an hour - "and lets see, the chalk marks on your tires indicate you have been here, ummm, (scribble, scribble) that will be three thousand twenty two dollars and fourteen cents."
Well ma'am,. that's not my problem. Step to the next line and the bank has a loan officer here 24/7."
NEXT!

You see, that is how corporate medicine will be practiced here. The wave of the future. I should give your doc some lessons, Jim.
:mrgreen:
 
Don't get me riled, Denny-o, it's not good for my blood pressure. :wink: I try to avoid needless waiting... non-productive hours that you don't get back. Medical care in this small town is less than competent - to get substandard care, have to wait for it, and get over-charged for it is adding insult to injury.

Back to the topic here: I checked the seam on the dinghy... it appears to be holding. I'll give it a while before buying another glue set and doing the other side. I am no longer a complete novice at this, so I know what I'm in for on the second side.

Best wishes,
Jim
 
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