New Owner

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flapbreaker

New member
After asking countless quesitons on this forum and reading just about every thread to come along I finally bought my C-dory. It's actually been in the making for about a month. Here she is...

Now I need a gallery so I can post a few pictures...
 
Congrats on the purchase! I'm sure one of the head nerds will have you hooked up with an album in no time and we'll all take a peak at the new baby. Given it's a C-dory, I pretty much know what it looks like already(with the exception of color and some details), and yet I'm still interested....a sickness?
 
Well good for you! I saw the pictures on ifish, and she looks good. Real good.

We got you an album set up and linked to your Profile. When you decide on the name we can change the album title.

Congratulations!
 
it's about time :) I also peeked at the pics on iflush....very nice, now you have just enough time to turn around and head back north to Sequim
 
Thanks guys.

Ok I got a couple questions for you.

I tried out that darn windlass. It worked great until I got to the chain. On the retrieve I had to keep reversing it to unjam it. Then the stupid anchor came up real fast, bounced up over the roller and slammed into the side of the bow :cry Now there's a quater sized chip out of the gelcoat. You can probably tell that I'm grieving. What technique should I be using when bringing in the anchor so this doesn't happen again?

Do you guys have a single tiedown that goes over the transome or two that connect from the back eyelets?

When you turn the table into a bed does the table just sit on the support rails or does it fasten there somehow? It appears like it just sits there but then it easily slided back and forth. It looks like there should be a set screw where the short leg goes but I don't see one. Is this important?

Thanks in advance.
 
Can't answer the windlass problem but the table just sits there and it does easily slide back and forth. Also the cushion doesn't fill the space under the overhang adequately. I have to admit, I've just lived with this but will be getting a wider cushion this winter and will be fixing the table sliding issue too. My though was to put a couple pieces of angle aluminum just on the underside at the outside edges to retain it from sliding out (e.g. these would hit the rails on which the table top sits and keep it from sliding out).

I'm sure someone else has solved this problem more elegantly... people?
 
With respect to the darn windlass: Do you have a swivel between the end of the chain and the anchor? That is almost a must. One of those cheap (~ $6) clevis/shackle types works real good.

You have to let off the retrieve and jog the shank of the anchor into the roller. On my chain I tied a piece of nylon barricade tape on the chain so that when it reaches the windlass, the shank of the anchor is just reaching the roller. That's when I let off the switch and bump it the rest of the way up. I learned this pretty much the same way you have.
 
Congrats on the new boat! Now get ready to answer all the questions you get from people every time you launch or retrieve your boat. You also get lots of thumbs up :thup from people driving by on the road. Makes ya feel real good about what ya just bought :smiled .

Wayne
 
flabreaker-

With regard to the table, my older CD-22 has hollow notches in either side of the wooden support ledges that hold the table from the sides of the storage boxes/seat bases. There are raised inserts to match them on the undersides of the table that keep it from slipping. I don't think it would slip much anyway unless you were in very rough seas with the bed made up, but perhaps the newer starboard plastic materials are slippier than the older Decaguard 3/4" plywood with a Formica like simulated teak wood surface.

The leg underneath telescopes with a spring loaded pin. The original metal holding bracket for the leg when used as a bed base broke from metal fatigue, so I replaced it with two brass eyelets about 5' apart and about 5" above the end of the leg with a small bungee cord stretched between them that elastically stretches out and over the leg and holds it up to the bottom of the table when used in that manner. Joe.
 
flapbreaker-

The question of whether to use one or two tie-down straps has several possible answers.

1. Two straps are better than one because you still have one if the other one breaks.

2. The discussion we had earlier on another thread about keeping the boat centered when going around corners also relates to this question, and the answer might be-

A. Two straps
B. Four straps
C. Four straps and a big strap

To wit-

(Don writes)

One problem I do have is the fact that no matter how tight I make the transom tiedowns, the boat's stern still slides back and forth on turns. Stops when the bunker hits the outer strake, of course, but it is a tad disconcerting. Any hints? Or is this the usual C-Dory behavior?

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Don

Do you have guide-ons on the trailer to center it when retrieving at the launch ramp?

I've never noticed my boat moving around on my EZ Loader trailer. My guide-ons are 2 x 4's, placed 6 inches below the rubbing strakes, from 1 foot in front of the transom to just ahead of the front windows and adjusted with 1" of clearance on each side to keep the boat centered. The metal support structure from the trailer frame upward to the padded 2 x 4's is made up of metal box channel at least as big as the 2 x 4's. I suspect the substantial nature of these structures keeps the boat from moving around. Some guide-ons are only about half this height, not as long or substantial, and/or not adjusted as tightly. Other trailers simply don't have them at all.

As an additional means of securing your boat to your trailer, I'd suggest you add to the vertically oriented transom straps which allow some side movement (kind of like a parallelogram or box without a bottom member). I'd add cross straps from the lower right of the trailer to the upper left of the boat and from the lower left of the trailer to the upper right of the boat. You could also add a single heavy duty strap forward of the transom, say about 2 feet, from the trailer frame up over the gunnels of the boat and back down to the trailer frame. Hope I didn't over do the correction possibilities! Joe.
_________________
 
Congrats!

Here are some pics to share with the non-Ifishers...

Flapbreaker1.jpg

flapbreaker2.jpg

I just have one strap for a tie down that goes across the boat just in front of the lazarette covers.

By the way, I would tow with the motor down or invest in a transom saver. just my $.02

You are gonna love it.
Did you buy up North from Les or from SC local?
 
Mr. Fisherman":1m4zkyd4 said:
By the way, I would tow with the motor down or invest in a transom saver. just my $.02
Click to expand...

Really? Dealer told us to tow with the engines up...the 90 has feet pressurized a bit so it doesn't slop around at all....hmmmmm

Very nice ride flapbreaker! I saw it on ifish too...I'll take a pic tonight of the windlass setup our dealer did for us...has a swivel in it as mentioned. Also, I'm shakin my head over the table/bed, as ours just sits in the slot, but the cushions have to be wedged in hard to make them lay down...no spaces or gaps there!
 
Welcome and congratulations! Now all the adventures in figuring out the details! If you'll allow me to share some of my adventures...
For the windlass, you may want (with an assistant) to stuff your head up the chain locker and activate the windlass up and down over the sticking point. You may have to go down one size in shackle. We also do a sort of splice with thin poly-twine over the rope/shackle/chain connection to smooth it out.
In addition, you may want to lengthen the chain. If the anchor is still in the water when you hit that sticking point the wild swinging would be eliminated.
As for the tie downs, we are on a modified SEA WOLF program. In addition to a single tie down strap, we use the transom lines through the towing padeyes on the transom and tie to the trailer, but port line to right bunk and right to left (so the lines make a 'x' if you were standing /swimming directly astern the boat). This has worked when taking these boats to boatshows (some over 4 hr trips) and it has the added feature of using supplies on hand ( a famous C-BRAT trademark!).
Finally, haven't seen the "table dance" with the sliding dinette but will keep my eyes open.
Again Congratulations and best of luck!
Fair winds...
John
Y-Landing
 
Congratulations on your new boat; it looks great.

Re. the windlass thing, you may want to check out the BRM-2 modifications photo on page 4 of the MOOSE album. One of the thing I did was to bolt on a stainless "keeper" strap to prevent the anchor from jumping off and gouging the bow. Not that this was a chronic problem, but once is too much, as you have described.
Al
 
By the way, I would tow with the motor down or invest in a transom saver.
Click to expand...

If you read the thread titled Securing Boat On Trailer and see how the boats tend to move around, you will understand why you are better off without a transom saver. Sheesh - I always wish Les would get back on here, but I really hope he doesn't see the the above quote. He goes really haywire over that one.
 
OK, here's a "new C-Dory boater" question:

There's a mystery fitting directly below the 12 volt accessory socket on the dash of my 2005 CD-22. It has outside threads and is secured by a stainless screw in the center. What in the world is it for?

Photo below:

mystery.jpg


Don
 
TyBoo":2gvs1d9z said:
By the way, I would tow with the motor down or invest in a transom saver.
Click to expand...

If you read the thread titled Securing Boat On Trailer and see how the boats tend to move around, you will understand why you are better off without a transom saver. Sheesh - I always wish Les would get back on here, but I really hope he doesn't see the the above quote. He goes really haywire over that one.
Click to expand...

Really? It seems to me that the flexing from the weight being further from the fulcrum would be amplified by increasing the lever arm i.e in the raised position. Shortening the lever arm would physically reduce the force as the rotational inertia is null or nominal. I would think that having the motor in the lowered position would be favorable over the use of a transom saver for reasons mentioned about the boat possibly sliding around. In any case, I have a roller trailer and don't have to worry about the motor hitting the ground. If you have a bunk trailer your mileage may vary.

I am sure a super nerd will come along and set me straight. Don't expect too much from me right now. I just got off a 12 hour night shift adn need to go to bed.
 
Sneaks":2roiwl9o said:
OK, here's a "new C-Dory boater" question:

There's a mystery fitting directly below the 12 volt accessory socket on the dash of my 2005 CD-22. It has outside threads and is secured by a stainless screw in the center. What in the world is it for?

Photo below:

mystery.jpg


Don
Click to expand...

That threaded fitting is for the cap that is used to seal the socket connection to your Anchor light. The cap stores there when the light mast is on the boat. It is a handy place to store it so it doesn't get lost and offers a friendly reminder that you don't have the mast up when the cap is present.

I hope this helps...
 
...and when that cap that goes on that holder does get lost, a cap off of a disposable propane bottle fits perfectly.
 
........of all things! I never could figure it out either. I took it off when I was patching gel coat holes this spring and plastered over the screw hole. Hmmm, I wonder what I did with it?
Al
 
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