New Owner

flexing from the weight being further from the fulcrum would be amplified by increasing the lever arm i.e in the raised position. Shortening the lever arm would physically reduce the force as the rotational inertia is null or nominal.
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If I tried using those words, DoD would beat the crap out of me!

Actually, having the motor tilted full up and on the storage lever provides the least forces other than sheer weight to the transom. And with it up, the weight is focused straight down rather than off center. Look at it this way: With the motor down, the weight of it is trying to force it to fall off the back, and it is held by only the four bolts, with only the top two holding most of the load. With it tilted up having most of the powerhead weight ahead of the transom and all the lower unit weight behind the transom, the weight is trying to force the motor to fall through the bottom of the boat. The same bolts and material are holding the weight, but they are now in sheer condition rather than tensile, and the weight is divided between them all, as well as being distributed over a lot more fiberglass. It might appear that you would get more "rocking" forces with the motor up, but if you were to relieve the pressure in the hydraulic circuit you would find that the motor is pretty well balanced. I think they build 'em that way. Or look at it like this: With the motor down, all of the weight is behind the fulcrum; with it up, the weight is split between the two sides of it. But as tough as the CD transoms are, it doesn't matter much to it how you have the motor, so if you have room to leave it down while towing and prefer it, that's the way you should do it.

My comment, however, was directed toward the use of a transom saver device. Bad idea unless the trailer supporting one end of it does not move or flex relative to the transom which is ultimately holding the other end. Almost impossible with a CD22, no matter how you string it up or tie it down.
 
Moose, I suppose if you loose the holder, a disposable propane bottle would work :)

Motors up or down? what Mike said, unless you have a dodge then you may want the motors down and running for that added propulsion assist
 
Mr. Fisherman":l5r7pch8 said:
That threaded fitting is for the cap that is used to seal the socket connection to your Anchor light. The cap stores there when the light mast is on the boat. It is a handy place to store it so it doesn't get lost and offers a friendly reminder that you don't have the mast up when the cap is present.

I hope this helps...
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Thank you, indeed it does. I wouldn't have figured it out alone and I bet Moose and I ain't the only ones that learned something on that answer either!

Don
 
B~C":h10d4irb said:
Motors up or down?
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Sounds to me like a good title for another poll. As for me "motors up". (Another good reason for motors up, is that you are less likely to "smack" your lower units on a steep driveway).

P.S. For you Ford and Chevy folks, if your motors are up, you'll get less wind resistance and you "just might" be able to travel at speeds greater than 15 mph. :wink
 
sheeesh, you got the boat and you're still full of questions :) West marine in Delta park or Boaters World in Jantzen beach can really put a warp in you fun coupons
 
FB - something similar to this deal will work great. Any marine store will fix you with prices ranging from under 10 bucks to over a hundred. I am glad to hear you don't have one. It should definitely solve your chain binding problem. The links cannot lay in the gypsy if they have a twist.

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I gots' a label on my holder also, however, I don't see on in the picture Don posted....ya know the true purpose of that thing is to store that phillips screw in the center of it.

How long before the newbie window opening question?
 
How long before the newbie window opening question?
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Gotta wait until he gets mad or takes his wife for a boat ride. Hopefully, they don't both happen at the same time. (Uh oh, C-Lou is gonna beat me up now!)
 
Holy cow, FB. They're breakin' more than your flaps over there on ifish about your tongue weight! I think after you get an idea of what the actual weight is on the tongue, you should just give Les a call for advice. He has put a whole bunch of them CD22s on King trailers, and King Trailer knows where the axles belong for a CD22, so I am betting that the experts' opinions will be to move the boat back 3". That's a long drive to have something simple done, and it will probably just involve moving the winch stand. But once you get it squared away, be sure and post a picture over there of your truck sitting level so them guys can get some rest.
 
aw it's all screwed up :) I'll bet your trailer/boat is setup just fine...here's a test for ya, unhook the trailer and stand on the truck bumper it it squats down to much, get you some new shocks...I don't think they put much for suspension on those car/trucks....when we had the Landcruiser, the boat would make it hunker up like a dog trying to pass a peach pit
 
Your right about the ifish guys Tyboo. I didn't ask anyone if my tow rig was ok, just posted pictures of the boat and a few have to nitpick. Les said I need to be sure that the trailer sits level. He said I should probably purchase a different hitch that sits up a couple inches. However the suspension for the sporttrac is known to be very soft so I wonder if I just put some airshocks on and pumped them up until the truck is level if that would level the whole thing. ALso for informational purposes I think I will weight the trailer tongue weight. I'm not as worried as all those jeolous ifishers are. :xlol I just want the trailer level since it has 2 axles.
 
flapbreaker":vxvwlr87 said:
However the suspension for the sporttrac is known to be very soft so I wonder if I just put some airshocks on and pumped them up until the truck is level if that would level the whole thing.
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When we were towing out 22 with an Isuzu Trooper, initially it was a bit low on the rear end. Airshocks solved the problem for not too much money. Had the boys at Les Schwab put 'em on (man I love that place, always fast, courteous and priced right). However, note that once you put 'em on, the overall ride will be much stiffer and speed bumps will be a whole new experience...
 
On most of them, there is a minimum air pressure requirement so you have to leave at least some air in them resulting in a somewhat stiffer ride. Also, unless you have a decent air compressor, its a PIA to put air in and take it out every time so I usually wind up leaving them inflated resulting in a much stiffer ride (but the wife drives it most of the time so it doesn't bother me much :lol: )...
 
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