Need Help with New Side Guide Posts!

localboy":2f9u4csq said:
When my bunks on my King trailer fell off...

We have a King. What am I missing here? They shouldn't just "fall off". :?

Our's are pretty much spot on. They are very close to the boat and almost center it perfectly. Occasionally, it will slide to one side or the other, but by not more than a couple of inches. I ususlly look at the gaps between the hull and the inner fenders (trailer).

We do lilke Barry; I pull it out slowly and poor lilttle Meredith tries to push/pull it center. If not, I back down again, float the stern and try again. Dave, I wouldn't wanna try to move that stern; my back aches just thinking about it. :wink:

The bunks shouldn't come off, but the side load guides can get dmaged from heavy lateral forces if the boat hits them too hard. The holes the lag bolts go into become damaged, the lags fall out, board falls off.

I have seem people through bolt these, but it makes putting the carpet hard to reinstall.
 
Pat, those look incredibly robust. Much more so than the standard goal post style used on smaller boats. How far up into the PVC does the metal part of the upright go?

I like the flat fender idea if you can keep them in place. The hull design that makes the C-Dory so efficient make sit so hard to center on a trailer. No 'V' or strakes to have a bunk against for centering.
 
Matt, here is the web page with these post guide-ons. The metal post goes to within 6" of the top of the PVC. They are big and heavy! These are the T-967s, 7.5' tall!

Matt Gurnsey":35e116vb said:
Pat, those look incredibly robust. Much more so than the standard goal post style used on smaller boats. How far up into the PVC does the metal part of the upright go?

I like the flat fender idea if you can keep them in place. The hull design that makes the C-Dory so efficient make sit so hard to center on a trailer. No 'V' or strakes to have a bunk against for centering.
 
Pat,

Those are good looking guides and because they are so tall they will give you a good visual reference point from dockside whicle the stern is still floating. ie. you will know that the side of the boat nearest you should be "x" inches away from the guide and hopefully the Dock Admiral can push/pull it to center.

Someone mentioned putting your tail lights up there but you can go one better and put your turn/brake signals up there as well. The normal position is way down under the stern of a very good looking boat which has all the attention of the driver behind you. Putting them right at eye level really works particularly on I5 at rush hour.

M
 
Agree, these are certainly heavy duty!

There is another way to deal with tail lights (meaning both brake, turn and tail)--and put them a bit closer to the eye level (as secondary lights)--that is to make a piece of 1.5 to 2" PVC pipe which will reach across the transom, or between the two clearance pipes. Bolt the lights on one side of the pipe--drill a larger hole opposite the bolts. Then put a 4 prong plug wired into the lighting system on one of the standoffs, so you can remove the PVC pipe light bar.
 
thataway":2dl66dva said:
Agree, these are certainly heavy duty!

There is another way to deal with tail lights (meaning both brake, turn and tail)--and put them a bit closer to the eye level (as secondary lights)--that is to make a piece of 1.5 to 2" PVC pipe which will reach across the transom, or between the two clearance pipes. Bolt the lights on one side of the pipe--drill a larger hole opposite the bolts. Then put a 4 prong plug wired into the lighting system on one of the standoffs, so you can remove the PVC pipe light bar.

Bob

Last year they gave a guy a ticket in the Bullfrog parking lot for not having any lights on his trailer. It seems he had gotten tried of repairing them so he made them removable. The only time I have had broken lights on the C-dory trailer is when I returned from cruising and found someone had hit the trailer while I was gone. Almost ready to do the light bar thing. :D
 
Jody,
I did not make this clear--the lights I suggest are in addition to the trailer lights. The trailer lights stay in place, and the bar is attached with a 4 point connector which is run up the side of the guide pole--after being crimped or soldered into the existing wiring. I thought I had a photo of this on the C Dory 25, but not in my album, sorry for any confusion--definately you need to keep the lights on the trailer frame.

Excellent point, since a cop followed my wife when she was bringing the trailer home from the ramp yesterday. I had checked the lights on the trailer and they were working. I guess that the Sheriff's deputy was just curious--or was suspicious since we have had some trailer thefts.
 
Not to long ago Dave on the 25' CD Charity posted some pictures of the centering system he built. It looks like just the ticket. Check out his album.
 
Hey Pat, if you can change a tire with a lug wrench, you can build one of these. Oh, wait... I forgot.:oops:

Easy solution though, just buy a TC255. Once you get the bow across the end of the trailer, it just slides down the middle automatically. Every time. Maybe more expensive though than your fix..

Charlie
 
If my rememberer works right I seem to remember some pics on Mark's (3rd Byte)photo album of some guides he built to put on prior to trailering down the road to keep the boat from sliding sideways when going round corners.
 
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