Might as well get used to me pestering you now :)

[tparrent]

It'll soon be time to Outfit The New Boat and I KNOW how much y'all hate to talk about that

A little background - I have a nearly new 16 (want a good deal? ) and just bought a nearly new condition 2007 22.

I have kept the 16 in a storage yard between my house and the nearest lake and will likely do the same with the 22. After a month of using the 16, I got tired of having to clean out the cockpit every time I pulled it out from storage. Leaves, rain, dirt - just the usual stuff. I bought a full boat cover from those good folks in Indiana. Best upgrade so far. Ok, only upgrade so far but still very good. The boat is clean and dry every time I go to it and putting the cover on or taking it off adds no more than three minutes to my whole routine.

For the 22, would you recommend a full cover, a cockpit cover or a camper enclosure? I don't know how much I would use the camper enclosure as I don't really need an "extra room" on the boat as I will be cruising for only a few days at a time and almost always solo. I wonder even about a bimini as I like the open cockpit.

The boat does not (yet) have curtains so a full cover would also prevent sun fading of the interior - but that's probably an overkill solution for that "problem"

The 16 cover is large but easily rolls up and I just toss it in the bed of the truck with a bungee or two over it. A 22 cover would, I think, be quite a bit bigger due to the cabin size.

Ok, I seem to be talking myself into curtains or shades and a cockpit cover. If I go that route, what is the best way to fasten a cover? I ordered the 16 cover with loops sewn in that I bungee to the trailer rather than snaps. I don't much like snaps but that seems the most common way to attach a cover.

Speaking of attachments - how would you attachment window coverings? Not looking for frilly curtains here, just fabric shades for privacy at night and sun fade protection in storage.

The boat does not have a windlass.On the 16, I used a plow with a bridle line setup so that I did not have to go forward to set/retrieve. That turned out to be serious overkill for my lunch stops so I now use a small folding grapnel that I just tie off to a stern cleat. With a little rode work I can position the boat at optimum angles to sun/breeze and retrieval is easy. On my current day trips, I anchor EVERY time I take the boat out but it's usually in three feet of water or less so sticking a boat hook in the mud would probably be sufficient. On the 22, I will be cruising overnight so I will need to use real gear. I should just get the windlass, right? The only thing I could see arguing against that is if I can EASILY stick my shoulders through the hatch and handle anchoring chores from there.

Kicker. The boat doesn't have one. I don't fish (too frustrating - I go out to RELAX) so I don't need to troll. I would use a kicker for three purposes:

1. Get me home - if the big horse fails, I want to make it home on my own.

2. Close quarters steering - not sure how practical this is but I thought I might be able to tiller steer a kicker from the cockpit when coming back to the dock/launch ramp. Coming in solo requires some creativity. Using the kicker as an everyday aid to docking also increases the chance that it will work when needed.

3. Sacrificial power - I like to poke around in backwaters that tend to be poorly charted if at all. I also poke around in areas of the lake with standing timber. Poking around using the kicker might be a better idea than using my main means of propulsion. I've only hit one stump but that was enough to lead to a more exciting than necessary return to a remote ramp and a long walk back to the truck.Or I could just be careful. Nah....

What would you recommend for a kicker that would satisfy these needs? Electric start with pull cord backup? Tiller steer but also slaved to main steering?

One thing I have not liked dealing with on the 16 is the gas tanks. Being a sailor, I seldom dealt with fuel and when I did it was diesel in integrated tanks. These 6 gallon plastic tanks drive me nuts with their bulging, fumes, leaks, etc. So I don't see myself carrying fuel for the kicker outside the main tanks. I realize that is not totally redundant but I'll accept that risk.

I will be scouring your pictures for great customization ideas and then scouring service tech listings to find someone who can make the modifications because I am tragically incompetent when it comes to tools and stuff. Seriously, velcro challenges my skills.

Thanks for all of your future suggestions. I really appreciate this board and the way you all share your wisdom.

 

[texasair]

I have the new lightweight Lewmar prosport 550 windlass, not to pricey, uses less power and so far so good.
Not one of the beefy models, but I don't usually anchor in 100's of feet of water.

I have a 15" (short) shaft 5 HP kicker on a fixed mount on my 22. Pushes it about 4-5 mph in still water. Have tried my 3hp as well and it does about the same. I use the 5 because it has a snap fuel fitting as well as a built in fuel tank. I keep the fuel tank full and ready to go but if I need to I can run it off of the big tanks by simply switching the fuel line from the main motor.
For short duration use I can tiller steer it, but I also have a snap on connector steering rod that connects it to the big motor. Since you can not plane the cav plate on the kicker can be several inches above the bottom of the hull and still work. Most folks use a 20" (long) kicker. But I have found that the 15" works OK for me as a kicker The 15" is lighter and works better on small boats, canoes and dingys. Photos of how mine is mounted on my album.

You can also put a tee in the fuel line and have the kicker hooked up at all times.



In the open ocean where tides, winds and currents can combine for greater force, a 8-15 hp kicker may be required.

I had the local furniture repair guy sew up curtains to fit the windows and put snaps in the corners to hold them in place. The corresponding snaps have to be screwed into the boat above the windows.

Good luck,

 

[Levitation]

If you do not cover the boat it will be dirty every time you go to use it...
Consider a full canvas bimini/enclosure over the cockpit and a removable cover from there forward...
A kicker is the best solution for 'get home'... Get used to humping a spare can of gas around - why should you enjoy life more than the rest of us?
Yes, you need curtains inside as you will not always be anchored out at night - a bigger boat means bigger trips...

 

[srbaum]

I just went through this drill over the past two months... I have a 2001 22, and the corner screws in the interior frame of the windows was fitted with a snap fastener of the same screw dimensions. I was happy to see that no new holes or modifications were required. In addition to the light gray Sunbrella snap on curtains, screens were made for the forward hatch (velcros in place) and the forward center window in the cabin (snaps in place).
My boat came with the Sunbrella cover that goes from the top aft end of the cabin to the splash well (cockpit cover). My canvas guy made a bimini top then made role up windows for the sides and aft. The two aft (port and starboard) windows and the aft window have screens that are velcroed externally. The clear window material is Isinglass that unzips around the bottom and sides, with fasteners to roll them up. All of the original snap fasteners that were already in place for the cockpit cover were used, except for two new fasteners at the sides of the aft end of the roof lip on the exterior, so I don't have a bunch of new holes nor a gazillion extra fasteners on the exterior of the boat.
The ideas for the canvas work was gotten from studying other's on this site.
I wish you well with your new boat and rigging.

 

[thataway]

The cockpit slant back would probably be your best bet (although a Bimini is great for sun protection, it will not keep the cockpit clean). Put a vinly "Awning rail" at the back edge top of the cabin--and put a bolt rope with a zipper thru this--and you can attatch the slant back or a bimini later if you wish. I like a camper back, because if it is raining etc--then you have that "mud room".

Sunbrella is the prefered material for the window and covers.

I would suggest against the grappel for anchoring, epecially from the stern.

For most of your use, a small outboard with 15" shaft will work. I have never had cockpit steering or used the kicker when loading onto a trailer. Just not necessary. The 15" can be run so that the prop does not stick much below the bottom of the boat--and with an extension handle tiller steered when in shoal or water with obstructions. You just don't do well in reverse. Be sure that you have cooling water. For most of the time 3.5 to 5 HP will be fine. I have gone thousands of miles in a 26 foot sailboat, larger than any of the C Dories with a 5 hp outboard. It isn't fast, but does work. Plus the 3.5 to 5 will work fine for a dinghy. We once had to get emergency power on a 62 foot, 65,000 lb sailboat (lost transmission)--and a 4.5 hp on a 10 foot dinghy got us easly and quickly up to 2.5 knots and gave us steerage way. It doesn't take much to more a boat in calm water. Anything over 8 hp is over kill in a C Dory 22. If you were to go to an 8 hp, then you want a "big foot" or "high thrust" lower unit.