microwave/generator

C-WEED

New member
I am interested in powering a small microwave. Is anyone using the 1000 watt generators for this? If so, does it work on full power or do you use reduced power setting? I like the compact size and weight of the 1000 and could find room for one aboard if it would run the oven. Or would I be better off with the larger, heavier, more expensive, thirstier, noisier 2000?
 
If you use the small Sunbeam, etc., microwaves you can use full power. Where the larger generator is nice is toaster ovens, small fry daddy, etc., all seem to run 1200w. If you purchase wisely, a regular toaster can be found and a 600w microwave is pretty common.
 
Merry Christmas, I run a Yamaha 1000 that powers my 400 watt Sharp Half-Pint. It needs 760 watts so powering it is not a problem. It sports a rotating carousel, handles a big plate, and fits inside my original ice-box(door removed). These are fine units. The one on Adeline was purchased 20 years ago and still works like new. In fact, I also have one in my kitchen at home. These low power units aren't made anymore but can regularly be found on E-bay. Expect to pay $80-$100. The model you want is the R-1M50. A later model, R-1M53 can also be used but requires a bit more power. Newer ones need too much for a 1000 watt generator. Here is what I use http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=250061134215&rd=1&rd=1
 
Here's how I beat the system on the miocrowave-generator game:

The first part of the problem is that the Honda EU100i generator puts out about 750-850 watts on a continuous basis, but will handle pretty close to 1000 watts max for short periods.

Next, the typical small microwave generally available consumes 600-700 watts once it's running, but the start up surge can be one and a half or more times that.

The easy way out is to use an inverter of 700 or more watts continuous rating, which will handle 1800 or more watts of surge for short periods.

The inverter can be used to power the microwave for most uses without even starting the generator. You can choose to recharge what power is used by either running the main motor or the generator, or even shore power later if your total reserve power in your system is large enough.

The 700 watts of the microwave probably requires 750-800 watts of input power to produce 700 net watts, and 750- 800 watts divided by the imput voltage of 12 volts equals about 65 amps, not too much more than a good, powerful windlass.

I have 4 group 27 deep cycle marine batteries on board, and the 460 total amp hours allows me to use the microwave as much as I want to without starting any motors or generators. It's a lot easier also to be able to use the microwave without pulling out the generator or starting the main motor.

I do have the Honda EU 1000i on board, though, for use as needed for other appliances and to run my engine mounted electric trolling motor for extended periods.

Joe.
 
A microwave is a current hog. My 1600 watt mmicrowave stalls my 3.5 KNW Honda. Now shopping for a larger generator because being without power for days stirs up the kitchen slave. Smaller microwave isn't on her agenda yet. !.5 times regular draw, as Joe sez, is about right. Mine runs 1.7, checked on a $3,000 tester. (For a fee, of course.)

Dusty
 
Fry Daddy ??? Yum !! I had not thought about one of those....but that would make the deal for me....just think about it....Fish and Chips ...Yeow that sounds good..

Joel
SEA3PO
 
I have to agree with the posters above. I believe the best set up is to run the microwave off an inverter so you can use it at your convenience. Then use the generator to charge your batteries back up when you want. I use a GE JE740WK microwave. It is designed to be hung and is skinnier (front to back) than most .7cf microwaves. If I remember right it draws 900 watts and cooks with 700watts. You can see photos of the install here:

http://www.msnusers.com/C-DoryRedFox/be ... hotoID=222

Good luck with whichever route you decide to go.

Bill
 
We run an 800 watt "mechanical" microwave (no digital controls, just power settings and a spring loaded timer) off an 1800 watt inverter or the Honda EU 2000i (which is close to 16 amps). I think it would be pushing it to run most microwaves on the 1000 honda.
 
The power rating most manufactures use for a microwave is the output of the wave guide typically 600-700 watts. If you look in you manual for the input voltage and currant or the input wattage you will probally find that a 600 watt output microwave has an input off 1050 Watts. A little to much for a 1000 watt generator. Solution would be to find a very small microwave as mentioned earlier or use an invertor witch was what I use in my currant boat or a 2000 watt generator. I am not a C-dory owner yet but am selling 2 boats this winter so that I can be. Have been reading the site for about a year now. This is my first post here.
 
Welcome aboard JK, You sure picked a great day for your 1st post. I need to correct the wattage that I claimed for my microwave oven. It(R-1M50) is 860 watts. The R-1M53(in my kitchen) is 960 watts. The Yamaha 1000 powers them both. Here is a shot of the R-1M50 aboard Adeline inside the useless ice-chest. Half_Pint.jpg I'm going to jerk the cooler and install some cabinetry down the road. Maybe even a rollup(appliance garage) door.
 
What a great idea....a roll up door...I like it... I threw out that useless ice box and made drawers in that spot using West Marine teak drawer fronts.... and custom made drawers made to go all the way back to the hull surface...top one is deep, bottom one is shallow...it works fine for me. but using a rollup would not only look good, but be out of the way when in use.... One of the neat things about this site is the creativity of some of you'all...a pretty impressive group of friends.

Joel
SEA3PO
 
My Sunbeam was less than $50 at Wally World (GE had a cheapie too). Rotary knob like the one above, looks exactly like the small no-frills ones you find in a convieniance store. The Honda 1000 runs it just fine.
 
I just got the new Cabela's Spring 2007 Edition 1 catalog. On page 205, item CH-51-7693 is what is being called the Wave Box AC/DC Portable Microwave as a new product. I know nothing of this item and tried to Google the name, but I struck out. Maybe some of you internet detectives can research and comment.

Some food for thought.

John
Swee Pea
 
John-


Thanks for the link!

Wave Box Original:

camping02.jpg


The technical information on power consumption and output can be found on the PDF file and are as follows:

"The WaveBox® Original is our ABS plastic shell version
designed for the ultimate in lightweight portability
in a durable case. Main features include a reinforced
lightweight ABS plastic shell, our retractable AC cord
system, a removable extra long DC direct to battery
cable with “alligator” clamps, a removable extra long
DC power outlet cable, no-slip rubberized legs, heavy
duty luggage quality handle system, integrated re-
movable soft-sided cooler, preset cooking times for
both AC and DC cooking, digital display, and elevated
cooking rack for popcorn.
Shell ...................................Reinforced ABS plastic
BaSe ...............................................Rubber footings
exterior Width ............................................15”
exterior depth ............................................10”
exterior height...........................................11”
Cooking Cavity Width ................................10”
Cooking Cavity depth ..................................7”
Cooking Cavity height ................................6”
net Weight ................................................14 lbs
Color .................................................As requested
voltage ....................................................120v AC; 12v or 24v DC
Wattage ....................................................660w AC/Direct Connect
175w Vehicle Power Outlet
retraCtaBle aC Cord length .............................................3’
dC direCt ConneCt Cord length .....................................10’
with alligator clamps
dC poWer outlet Cord length ..........................................8’



closeup03.jpg


The Heavy Duty version (above) is the same with a more rugged external cover and weighs about 1 lb more.

Looks like a usable unit, about 10 lbs less than the average small microwave, with about the same output (The 660 w listed above is probably imput wattage, so the output is around 550 watts of heating.)

On a cigarette lighter adapter, the limited current and wattage (175 w) would equal very slow cooking/heating.

The external dimensions are smaller than the typical small microwave, good for storage, but limiting cooking space inside.

It doesn't say so, but since the unit runs off 120 v AC, 12 v DC, or 24 v DC, it must have a power converter of some kind inside.

My guess is that it would be good for the ultimate space saver applications, but for most folks, a larger, heavier microwave, with an inverter would be a better fit for real cooking.

For the space conscious boaters, I especially like the installation mentioned above in Best Day's earlier post where the microwave is mounted overheaad in the galley in what is otherwise unused space in the cabin.

DSC00059_JPG.jpg


Joe.
 
We just fired up the Honda 1000 today and tried the 700 watt microwave we picked up last summer at WallyWorld -- overload dagnabit! :crook Oh well, it'll still recharge the batteries if needed...or a light or coffee maker maybe if --- I should say WHEN we lose power again for a few days.
 
CatyMae n Steve: I have been trying to decide on the inverter vs. generater. I just want to micro some leftovers. I have a spare 700 watt microwave oven that I used at my last job. That would be my luck that a 1000 geny wouldn't get it going. I am not interested in adding the weight, space, complexity and $$ for a house battery.

With your microwave. Maybe you could try removing the light bulb? Just maybe it would be enough to let it fire up. Worth a try.

The inverter needs to be close to the battery and yet kept dry with plenty of cooling ventilation space. And I am not sure how long it would run until the group 24 battery needs recharged. I am not sure if you can run the main engine at the same time as the inverter to help out or not. Anybody, will this damage the engine charging system? I suppose I could double my batteries for more power if needed. I have a 15H.P. rope start kicker that charges so getting stranded is slim.

Here is an inverter I thought about trying. Some stuff I like: It would fit in the starboard cockpit storage. Just need to keep it dry or remove when not used. 3 ft. cables included. Soft Start technology. 1500cont/3500 watt surge. 2 year warranty. (On sale until Tuesday)

http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/gosocket_1500.html

One more thing I have been thinking about. Running one of those ceramic heaters with a generater. I would stick it in the anchor locker and sleep real good and warm. Seems like a 1000 gen would run one on low (750 watts). Once the boat gets warm and the thermostat kicks on and off the eco throttle would run on economy. Rivaling the wallas for efficiency and heat on your feet. Anybody got any reports on using the ceramic heaters?
 
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