Lake Superior Bayfield area

T

thataway

Active member
We are planing a trip to the Apostle Islands in mid June thru early July; about 3 weeks on the water. I just found out that dogs are not allowed on Isle Royal--so that is off our itinerary. (unfortunately). Is it worth going up to Canada, and zooming past Port Royal Island? No dogs allowed within 4.5 miles~!

What other areas would C Brats suggest in this general area? Last year, we also enjoyed the land part of the Keweenaw Peninsula. I notice Black River Harbor--is that worth a day? Saxon harbor? Ontonagon Harbor? Is it worth running over toward Houghton, go around the peninsula?. We loved the Jam Pot--but didn't see palace to land the boat--maybe the dinghy if calm? Up the road was a beach where a sea plane was landing--and a ramp I believe--but too far for us to walk--any suggestions for this area?

In other words--what do you all who live and boat in this area suggest! Should we just concentrate on the Apostle Islands? What else is not to be missed. I have Bonnie Dahl's Superior Way" Cruising guide.

Thanks!

Bob
 
That's my old home turf, but I've always been on a slow boat (sail or kayak), or gone via car/foot/snowshoe, so my sense of time scale and where you could go (with power) is warped! What I mean is that in my mind, it's all done at 5 knots :D That said, you certainly could spend three weeks in the Apostle Islands (plus Cornucopia, Port Wing, Little Sand Bay, etc.) and not run out of cool stuff. I like the lighthouses and the sea caves ( e.g. Squaw Bay, east side of Sand Island)

Black River Harbor is charming (to me, the way the slips lie along the river), and there is some really neat hiking (really, trail walking) in the conglomerate canyon upstream. Pretty waterfalls, huge tree canopy, etc. Also nice beach with huge driftwood on the lake shore. However, I have never boated over to there (always went via car), so I can't comment on that part of it.

You've seen the Keweenaw (another favorite of mine), but again it's a place I've been to by land (usually) or kayak, so not sure how it would be as approached by C-Dory.

I also like to boat around Duluth Harbor. It's neat to come in under the lift bridge (with a built in fan club waving) and then just to putter around the harbor (if you appreciate industrial/shipping sort of places), and perhaps go back out through the Superior entry on the Wisconsin side. There are some nice little coves and almost "mini fjords" as you start up the St. Louis River (on the Wisconsin side) that make for nice overnights, as well as a few quiet spots over by the Superior entry. And restaurants etc. in Canal Park (by the lift bridge). That's not too far from the Apostles.

The North Shore is nifty, but harbors are few and far between (although Grand Marais is a neat place once you are there.... probably not worth boating to though?).

Pie Island and the Thunder Bay area... I've only been there once by (sail) boat (other times by land), so don't have much to say about it C-Dory related.

I didn't know dogs were not allowed on Isle Royale.

In summary, for a 3 week trip, I'd probably do the Apostles in relaxed fashion, plus Corny/Port Wing/Duluth-Superior Harbor and maybe a dip up into the St. Louis River, unless I had a specific hankering for something else, such as Black River Harbor or etc. OTOH, I've been away for some time, so things may have changed, and again, I have that "used to covering ground at 5 knots max" mentality to shake :D

Sunbeam
 
Bonnie's book is the bible for Lake Superior cruising; its only fault is that she dwells on water depth because she has a 6' deep draft sailboat. The Apostles are easily good for a week of boating possibly 2 weeks. Nearby is Cornucopia, worth a visit and not far beyond the sea caves which are a must see. In the other direction toward the Keweenaw nice shore line but not many anchorages or harbors. Not much to do at Saxon, Black River can be buggy but has a great series of waterfalls, all uphill from the big lake, of course. Next is Ontonagan, not much to do; then the Portage Waterway, my home; then Eagle Harbor, a protected no service harbor of refuge; then Copper Harbor, an interesting tourist outpost worth visiting. Going further around the Keweenaw is Lac La Belle, a large lake connected to the big lake; three light houses to see on the way; only one restaurant on Lac La Belle. Next is the Huron Islands (a must see on my list) which are wildlife preserves; the only one you can land at (a new dock) has a lighthouse. Not far away is Witz's Marina, a nice mom and pop marina with lots of land campers and a convenience store but no restaurants.
Going back to the Apostles and up the north shore (of Minnesota) - great shore line but few stops. Grand Marais is a high end tourist stop; lots of shopping and good food. And then Canada which is a great coast line with lots of protected anchorages, spots (wild not urban) to stop and explore, and my favorite shore of Lake Superior. Too many options. Moose is a better source on Canadian waters of Superior; I have Isle Royale connections, so I can answer any questions about it. Will pm my phone # to you if you want to discuss options further.

Jay
 
Jay and Sunbeam,
Thank you, for the information. Jay, I'll give you a call. I guess the question now is will the ice all be done by July? When we were up there last summer, the 3rd week of June, it seemed as if everything was just getting started--it rained every day--and we tried 3 days to take the cattle boat for the tour of the Apostle Islands--fog or rain canceled the trip each day! By the time we got over to the Keweenaw, the weather was beautiful.

I am sure we drove right by Cornucopia, but missed it--we had lunch at a little inn right on 13 somewhere near there….I'll have to look into that area again.

Having spent most of my life on sailboats--I can respect the draft issue! I had sort of written off Duluth because it was urban, but that may be a mistake….I am still interested in the Canadian shore--and we always take our passports and doggie papers….Weather can always be an issue--but the addition of Radar is just for this area--since we rarely have fog along the Gulf Coast…

Again, Thanks!
 
Allure for boating on the largest, coldest, deepest, cleanest fresh water lake
in the world (Lake Superior) is understandable. But it can get real nasty.
Remember the "Edmund Fitzgerald"? But, that was in November.

Despite the Apostles being nice, and sheltered, if the snarlies don't get you,
the water temperature will, especially this summer with such a long, cold drawn
out winter. Hope you don't mind not going in the water.

My suggestion: go south and east to the North Channel. You hosers know this
is Canada. It is by far one of the best fresh water cruising grounds in the world.
Mostly wilderness (time it right and pick fresh blueberries) with lots of rocks,
great coves and anchorages, some fijords, but enough civilization to replenish
and resupply. And, it is unsalted.

Check it out.

Aye.
 
Bob, we're familiar with the coast from Thunder Bay to Rossport, including the Slate Islands, and years ago canoed the Pukaskwa (NE) shore a couple times. If you decide to visit the Canadian shore, let me know and I will help you any way I can.
Al
 
Lots of good suggestions regarding the BIG Lake. If you choose to go east beyond Thunder Bay, Ontario you might wish to apply for a Remote Areas permit from Canadian customs. This permit allows you to explore the north shore without the complications of going through Customs. Get it on line from CANPASS.

We're located near L'Anse, MI and can provide secure parking for your vehicle and trailer (water and power hook-up) A good launch point is nearby and would put you on Keweenaw Bay at Pequaming with a six mile trip to the Portage Canal.

We had hoped to put together a gathering this summer, but everything is on hold until the ice goes........will try again in 2015.

After 60 years of sailing, we're adjusting to C-Dorying.

We'll look forward to seeing you up north.

Hank and Pat Clow
Meri Aura
 
Thanks you Foggy, Al and Hank. I will make some personal contacts. I try and avoid water cooler than 75 degrees--other than a "sun shower" with some water heated on the stove, I suspect there will be very little water con tats--Also have waders, good rubber boots, and a short wet suit--just in case…

I like the idea of the Remote Areas Permit. That is our type of boating…! We are sending off for that this week.
 
Here is how cold Lake Superior is..... Mix up a packet of Jello, place in a sealed mason jar, and lower about 4 feet over the side of your boat. Takes 30-60 minutes. If desired, put in some fruit cocktail at 20-40 minutes when partially gelled. Only fools and children swim in water that you can make Jello in.
 
Ha, growing up we thought anything over 60º was "hot" swimming water :D (now I'm spoiled and don't like anything under 80ºF)

There are times you can swim comfortably in Lake Superior though: What you do is watch for times when there is a wind coming consistently into "X" bay for a few days in summer. This blows in surface water and you can get water temps that are downright warm (for the big lake). Nothing you can count on, but a fun bonus when you get them. Otherwise it's like a summer version of a sauna, only you start out swimming in the cold lake water, run out and roll in the hot sand, and then plunge back in the lake to rinse off (optional activity, of course; there are many times I would be there and not swim at all).
 
Bob, you gotta do the north shore. I grew up in T.Bay and have been all over the north shore from Tee harbour, Dorion, Black Bay, Jackfish Bay, Rossport etc. The area is awesome. Weather can be unpredictable, and at times nasty! The ice will definitely be off by July. Heck, like Sunbeam says you'll find local kids swimming in July. Some great spring steelhead fishing to had off the northern stream inlets. The slate islands near Nipigon has some great wilderness anchorages and woodland caribou (and other critters too).

As for Isle Royal, you should not pass up that opportunity. Take the dogs to a local kennel and visit one spectacular area. The reason behind the no dogs policy has to do with a very unique relationship between wolves and moose on the island. The have been isolated, free from hunting for at least 75 years and do not want to introduce any canid pathogens. I spent a week hiking around the island during the rut in October and had bull moose walk right up to me. No fear of humans, but start barking or howling and well ... .

Feel free to PM me if I can be of any help or assistance to your sojourn.

Cheers, :beer
Grazer
 
Bob, you gotta do the north shore. I grew up in T.Bay and have been all over the north shore from Tee harbour, Dorion, Black Bay, Jackfish Bay, Rossport etc. The area is awesome. Weather can be unpredictable, and at times nasty! The ice will definitely be off by July. Heck, like Sunbeam says you'll find local kids swimming in July. Some great spring steelhead fishing to had off the northern stream inlets. The slate islands near Nipigon has some great wilderness anchorages and woodland caribou (and other critters too).

As for Isle Royal, you should not pass up that opportunity. Take the dogs to a local kennel and visit one spectacular area. The reason behind the no dogs policy has to do with a very unique relationship between wolves and moose on the island. The have been isolated, free from hunting for at least 75 years and do not want to introduce any canid pathogens. I spent a week hiking around the island during the rut in October and had bull moose walk right up to me. No fear of humans, but start barking or howling and well ... .

Feel free to PM me if I can be of any help or assistance to your sojourn.

Cheers, :beer
Grazer
 
Bob--there's still over 2 feet of ice on Chequamegon Bay right now and there could realistically be some floating around in early June this year. July and August is our most settled weather. There's good fishing for Lake Trout,walleye,and smallmouth bass in and around the Bay. The Kakogon Sloughs, east of Ashland are well worth checking out--I have a fishing/duck hunting shack there. Saxon and Black River Harbors make a nice day trip. Both are primarily fishing harbors. The Duluth harbor at Canal Park and the Maritime Museum are a good plan for a windy day. We messaged last year as you were heading out of town. My wife and I would be more than happy to show you around. By the way--we got over a foot of snow this week. PM me if you need anything further.

Gary and Bonnie on "Winyah"
 
Thanks all.
I did spent some more time looking at the North Shore last evening, and it looks very appealing.

I do understand the reason for the no dogs, and respect this. Unfortunately our little girl is too much of the family to leave in a kennel. I know some think that is "crazy", but it is what it is….So unfortunately we will have to bypass Isle Royal….

I suspect that most of our plans will be dictated by the weather. A little ice is no problem--we spent 5 summers cruising Alaska--in some places where we got caught in pack ice…for short times.

One concern is the fuel range of the C Dory 22 along the North Shore. After Thunder Bay, It looked like Red Rock Marina and maybe Rossport would have fuel. (Lake Superior Boating web site says "no fuel available for 2012". ) I suspect taking extra fuel would be advisable.

Again,
Thanks!
 
One could spend a entire summer in the Apostles and not see everything. I personally think the U.P. has much to offer as I have boated so little that way. Do spend some time in the Islands. I Like Stockton Island the best. Oak Island for hiking. Devils Island for cool caves on the North end although most Islands have them. I may have some photos in my album that show them.

The Nat. Park system is clearly not run by dog people. I will stop at that and not go on (keeping with the be Nice Policy here.)

Shame to scratch Isle Royale off your list as that place is so cool.

Many nice suggestions have been presented and I would also recommend Dalous bistro in Washburn for pizza . Wood fired oven ect.....A pretty easy walk from the marina.
http://www.dalousbistro.com/food.html

Old Ritten House in Bayfield has killer good food. Kinda of expensive but worth it.
http://www.rittenhouseinn.com/
Its run by a super nice family and clearly care about the quality of food.

Glad you enjoyed the Monks @ the Jam Pot. Did you try the fruit cake?
 
Chris,
Thanks for the suggestions: Did we try the fruit cake? We bought 3 fruit cakes--and enjoyed them up thru Thanksgiving. Then we kept the rum soaked cheese cloth and wrapped some cheap fruit cakes in that! I also sent a donation to the Monks--and subscribed to their newsletter. We still have a couple of the jars of jam and preserves. I think it is a fascinating story! We are getting more fruitcakes this year! Thanks for the tips!

We had walked by the old Old Ritten house, and did not know it was open to the public--will have to try it out!

I wish we had the entire summer, but we have set out the itinerary, to include getting back to Pensacola to get the mail, pay some bills and doctor's appointments--and then leave the C Dory 22 at Powell on the way to Sequim--several weeks with the grandkids at Sequim and Vancouver Island, and then back to Powell for at least 3 weeks…

Miss Angel says "I would play real nice with those animals!"
DSC1684.jpg
 
Chris Bulovsky":1z2imoa1 said:
Devils Island for cool caves on the North end although most Islands have them.
Click to expand...

The caves are really neat - I haven't been to them with a C-Dory, but have kayaked and/or dinghied into them, and also hiked in on the ice (in winter). What I really like in summer, in addition to just how neat they look, is the various "galunking" noises the water makes (in the underwater cutout portions). For obvious reasons it's best to paddle them in very calm weather.

Chris Bulovsky":1z2imoa1 said:
Old Ritten House in Bayfield has killer good food. Kinda of expensive but worth it.
Click to expand...

I ate at the Rittenhouse once, for a special dinner, and completely agree: Great experience!
 
Fuel in Canada: also fuel at Nipagon and maybe Silver Islet. No need for extra fuel until you go from Rossport to Wawa and I don't think you have the time for that. I think the fuel drought in 2012 was due to Environment Canada making all shore fuel pumps upgrade equipment - most pumps weren't down for that much time.
Lots of help and too many choices. Concentrate on the Apostles and if weather and time allows run to Thunder Bay or the Keweenaw; hard to go wrong.

Jay
 
The Apostle islands are a true gem. I agree with those here who say it would take a long time to see everything they have to offer. I've spent three summers up there and still yearn to get back.

If you like catching lake trout, ask where "The flats" are, just south of Big Bay. In July (or so) the black flies will be horrible (be warned)

Outer Island has a beautiful lighthouse on the north side.

Right off of Long island point (off Washburn) the water feels like bath water for swimming. I pick loads of blueberries out there as well.

The isle royale dog rule has also kept me from getting there. I'll probably do it this summer.

I know of at least 4 other 22-cruisers in the area, you'll feel at home.
 
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