Dave,
Some times sagging frames "need a lift!".... :shock: I have only used the weight distribution hitch where I had an issue--and it improved the towing considerably. There was a tire ware problem, which was resolved, The load was more stable, The truck and trailer were perfectly level when under loads, and the braking was as good as without the WD hitch. For a Tom Cat, I would want E/H brakes anyway.
Colby,
There is considerable debate on the trailer accessory sights about WD hitches--One of these was specifically about the 2010 Highlander--and even included an e-mail from Toyota--where the manufacture stated that there was no contraindication to using a WD hitch. I personally would not use one, because the Highlander is on a modified car platform, not a truck platform. But that is personal opinion. I used mine on a Diesel Excursion.
I stand by, what I said about distributing the tongue force--note that I said
A photo of the Trailer on the Tom Cat
On this particular trailer the "A" part of the aluminum frame goes all of the way to just behind the coupler.
Another photo to show where the "pole" has its second attachment to the trailer frame.
Here is the sticker on my Yukon XL. Most trucks have similar stickers.
Note that the sticker talks about 10,000 lbs, This refers to the factory installed hitch part of the heavy duty towing package--but the truck is only rated to tow 8,100 lbs.
The trailer manufacturer, and the truck manufacturer are all protecting them selves from liability and from potential failures as any good business should. You can boost the rear of a truck with overload strings, air bags and several other methods. Weight distributing hitches are "set up" specifically for the trailer, truck and load. We used a minimal setting, which allow good braking a level trailer and truck, and improved handling. . Like any accessory, it has to be used properly.
We were spending about 6 months of the year in various RV spots, and saw everything, from the Custom Freightliner tractors,, having a towing capacity of 40,000 lbs, down to an old beat up 1/2 ton truck which probably doesn't have over 5,000 lbs rated towing capacity, pulling these giant 44' 5th wheel trailers. I would rather have the $150,000 Freightliner, but some folks cannot afford that. Folks tend to use what is available to them, and often get away with the minimum.
Mark, I believe that you are using at least a HD 3/4 ton truck, set up for towing heavy loads. Not sure, but that seems a bit different than the 150 which the question is about in this thread. The point is often made that you can tow a trailer with anything a short distance--and we occasionally use a lawn tractor, But on the road, you want a substantial vehicle.
Some times sagging frames "need a lift!".... :shock: I have only used the weight distribution hitch where I had an issue--and it improved the towing considerably. There was a tire ware problem, which was resolved, The load was more stable, The truck and trailer were perfectly level when under loads, and the braking was as good as without the WD hitch. For a Tom Cat, I would want E/H brakes anyway.
Colby,
There is considerable debate on the trailer accessory sights about WD hitches--One of these was specifically about the 2010 Highlander--and even included an e-mail from Toyota--where the manufacture stated that there was no contraindication to using a WD hitch. I personally would not use one, because the Highlander is on a modified car platform, not a truck platform. But that is personal opinion. I used mine on a Diesel Excursion.
I stand by, what I said about distributing the tongue force--note that I said
This is from my observation on towing on I 10 where a resonance can be set up. The pole tongue adaptor bolts around the square or rectangular tubing.
A photo of the Trailer on the Tom Cat
On this particular trailer the "A" part of the aluminum frame goes all of the way to just behind the coupler.
Another photo to show where the "pole" has its second attachment to the trailer frame.
Here is the sticker on my Yukon XL. Most trucks have similar stickers.
Note that the sticker talks about 10,000 lbs, This refers to the factory installed hitch part of the heavy duty towing package--but the truck is only rated to tow 8,100 lbs.
The trailer manufacturer, and the truck manufacturer are all protecting them selves from liability and from potential failures as any good business should. You can boost the rear of a truck with overload strings, air bags and several other methods. Weight distributing hitches are "set up" specifically for the trailer, truck and load. We used a minimal setting, which allow good braking a level trailer and truck, and improved handling. . Like any accessory, it has to be used properly.
We were spending about 6 months of the year in various RV spots, and saw everything, from the Custom Freightliner tractors,, having a towing capacity of 40,000 lbs, down to an old beat up 1/2 ton truck which probably doesn't have over 5,000 lbs rated towing capacity, pulling these giant 44' 5th wheel trailers. I would rather have the $150,000 Freightliner, but some folks cannot afford that. Folks tend to use what is available to them, and often get away with the minimum.
Mark, I believe that you are using at least a HD 3/4 ton truck, set up for towing heavy loads. Not sure, but that seems a bit different than the 150 which the question is about in this thread. The point is often made that you can tow a trailer with anything a short distance--and we occasionally use a lawn tractor, But on the road, you want a substantial vehicle.
