Long-time lurker finally posting — first, thank you all. I've been tracking C-Dorys here for over a decade and have learned an enormous amount from this forum.
I may have found my boat and I'd be grateful for any input before I commit.
**The boat:** 2013 22 Cruiser, twin Honda BF50s, 480 hours on the pair. Shore power, heater, rooftop AC, Garmin plotter, VHF, rear bimini, galvanized trailer. It's on consignment at a dealer in Vancouver, WA that doesn't carry C-Dory — they're a Duckworth/Yamaha shop — which may be why it hasn't come up here. Link to the listing:
www.pacificboatland.com
I've got a refundable deposit down pending inspection and sea trial. I'll be driving down tomorrow and it's a bit of a haul so I'd like to make the trip count.
**What little I know of the history:** an older couple owned it for about two years. Which means they weren't the original owners, and there's roughly a decade before them that I know nothing about. I should have the HIN tomorrow and I'm happy to post it if that helps anyone place the boat. It isn't named and I don't even see any fading from previous name in the photos.
**Compression from the dealer** — port 207 / 204 / 206, starboard 228 / 206 / 210.
Questions, numbered for easy replies:
1. Does anyone recognize this boat, or know it from before the current owners? A 2013 with twin 50s seems unusual enough that someone might. Any history at all would be welcome.
2. Anything I should know in general about this vintage? I've read a lot of the core and rot threads here, but nearly all of them involve 80s and 90s boats. I'd love to hear what actually goes wrong on the newer ones, and what changed in construction between the mid-2000s and 2013.
3. There's an old thread where Harvey mentioned the factory was still fitting the smaller aft hatch covers that aren't meant for horizontal application, as recently as George's "Kerri On" in 2011. Did that carry into 2013? I plan to open the lazarettes and look hard at the gaskets.
4. Is the pilothouse overhead on a 2013 solid glass or cored? I've seen it stated both ways. There's an AC unit up there that I intend to remove eventually, and I'd like to know what I'll find at the cut edge.
5. Twin BF50s versus a single — anything specific to watch for beyond the obvious doubled maintenance? Timing belt history is unknown so I'm budgeting for both regardless.
6. Sanity check on the compression numbers? Port is dead even. The starboard 228 is my only question mark, and my read is that a high cylinder points to carbon from 37 hours a year of light-duty running rather than anything structural. Happy to be told otherwise.
**My inspection plan,** and I'd welcome pushback here: I've owned several boats and I'm planning to percuss the hull thoroughly — transom top edge under the cap, cockpit sole around the fuel tank brackets, engine bolt clusters, foredeck and anchor locker — plus back out a handful of fasteners and check the threads. I'm honestly not convinced a full survey with a moisture meter is warranted on a boat this new, given that most of the documented rot here traces to fastener practices the factory changed years before this hull was laid up. But I'd rather be told I'm wrong now than find out later, so if you think I'm being naive about it, please say so.
Thanks in advance. I've gotten a lot out of this place over the years and I appreciate the time.
I may have found my boat and I'd be grateful for any input before I commit.
**The boat:** 2013 22 Cruiser, twin Honda BF50s, 480 hours on the pair. Shore power, heater, rooftop AC, Garmin plotter, VHF, rear bimini, galvanized trailer. It's on consignment at a dealer in Vancouver, WA that doesn't carry C-Dory — they're a Duckworth/Yamaha shop — which may be why it hasn't come up here. Link to the listing:
2013 C-Dory 22' Classic Cruiser | Pacific Boatland
Pacific Boatland is a marine dealership located in Vancouver, WA. We sell new and pre-owned Boats and Snowmobiles from Duckworth, Yamaha, RH Boats, Arctic Cat, and Lowe Boats with excellent financing and pricing options. Pacific Boatland offers service and parts, and proudly serves the areas of...
www.pacificboatland.com
I've got a refundable deposit down pending inspection and sea trial. I'll be driving down tomorrow and it's a bit of a haul so I'd like to make the trip count.
**What little I know of the history:** an older couple owned it for about two years. Which means they weren't the original owners, and there's roughly a decade before them that I know nothing about. I should have the HIN tomorrow and I'm happy to post it if that helps anyone place the boat. It isn't named and I don't even see any fading from previous name in the photos.
**Compression from the dealer** — port 207 / 204 / 206, starboard 228 / 206 / 210.
Questions, numbered for easy replies:
1. Does anyone recognize this boat, or know it from before the current owners? A 2013 with twin 50s seems unusual enough that someone might. Any history at all would be welcome.
2. Anything I should know in general about this vintage? I've read a lot of the core and rot threads here, but nearly all of them involve 80s and 90s boats. I'd love to hear what actually goes wrong on the newer ones, and what changed in construction between the mid-2000s and 2013.
3. There's an old thread where Harvey mentioned the factory was still fitting the smaller aft hatch covers that aren't meant for horizontal application, as recently as George's "Kerri On" in 2011. Did that carry into 2013? I plan to open the lazarettes and look hard at the gaskets.
4. Is the pilothouse overhead on a 2013 solid glass or cored? I've seen it stated both ways. There's an AC unit up there that I intend to remove eventually, and I'd like to know what I'll find at the cut edge.
5. Twin BF50s versus a single — anything specific to watch for beyond the obvious doubled maintenance? Timing belt history is unknown so I'm budgeting for both regardless.
6. Sanity check on the compression numbers? Port is dead even. The starboard 228 is my only question mark, and my read is that a high cylinder points to carbon from 37 hours a year of light-duty running rather than anything structural. Happy to be told otherwise.
**My inspection plan,** and I'd welcome pushback here: I've owned several boats and I'm planning to percuss the hull thoroughly — transom top edge under the cap, cockpit sole around the fuel tank brackets, engine bolt clusters, foredeck and anchor locker — plus back out a handful of fasteners and check the threads. I'm honestly not convinced a full survey with a moisture meter is warranted on a boat this new, given that most of the documented rot here traces to fastener practices the factory changed years before this hull was laid up. But I'd rather be told I'm wrong now than find out later, so if you think I'm being naive about it, please say so.
Thanks in advance. I've gotten a lot out of this place over the years and I appreciate the time.
