Pandion":3l41sik5 said:Have any of you folks tried installing a butterfly vent—like the one pictured below—on your cabin door, below the window?
I'm looking at possible ways of getting additional air flow through the cabin, and a new sliding door window with screen is cost-prohibitive. Thanks for any suggestions.
Door vent
- Thread starter Pandion
- Start date
We just open or close the door. The number/size of the openings at the front of the cabin control the cabin airflow when the door is open. Opening the front hatch about 1/2 inch and/or the same with the center window usually provides enough airflow at our cruising speed even in the VA summer.
Your suggestion seems a bit flimsy and would probably leak some.
You might consider putting a small Bowmar style hatch in the roof above the door facing aft where the opening could be adjusted to suit the desired airflow. Like the hatches they put in the roof of the Ranger Tugs.
Might not be any cheaper than putting a sliding window in the door though.
Your suggestion seems a bit flimsy and would probably leak some.
You might consider putting a small Bowmar style hatch in the roof above the door facing aft where the opening could be adjusted to suit the desired airflow. Like the hatches they put in the roof of the Ranger Tugs.
Might not be any cheaper than putting a sliding window in the door though.
You can get an openable screened window from Diamond/SeaGlaze. Ten or more years ago they were $300/ea with an order of 6 or more or $500 for one; great addition to my boat and easy install - unscrew and rescrew. Another option I considered was cutting the door in half making a dutch door; lots more work as it would require adding two hinges, a dead bolt between upper and lower and devising a screen. Not sure of the size of your vent but I imagine it to be too small for a good breeze to happen.
Jay
Jay
Thanks for all of the suggestions, guys.
It's true that one can still order an openable screened window from Diamond Sea Glaze—that was the first thing I checked on when I started researching ventilation solutions. Sadly, though, the quote I received from the company was too rich for my blood: their written estimate for a new, screened door window was about $1,200 U.S.
I wonder if putting a solar vent (see below) on the roof above the door would do any good?
That's what I've been doing, too—propping the door open with a water bottle. That works great when there are no bugs around. However, I'm planning an Alaska cruise this summer, and to combat condensation in that wet climate, I figure I'll need inexpensive (which rules out a Bomar-type hatch) bug-proof solutions for the front window and back door. I do have a screen for the front Bomar hatch.ssobol":2qzoyhmn said:
thataway":2qzoyhmn said:
C-Green":2qzoyhmn said:
I'll have to look at snap-on solutions, but they sound a little clunky. I make frequent trips to the head (which lives on my back deck) at night, and I'm afraid a lot of snaps or zippers might interfere with that process.ssobol":2qzoyhmn said:
It's true that one can still order an openable screened window from Diamond Sea Glaze—that was the first thing I checked on when I started researching ventilation solutions. Sadly, though, the quote I received from the company was too rich for my blood: their written estimate for a new, screened door window was about $1,200 U.S.
I wonder if putting a solar vent (see below) on the roof above the door would do any good?
Marco Flamingo
Active member
I've used a similar solar vents on prior boats (no ventilation problems on my CD 16). They were brass, which tells you that I purchased them long ago. I still have one now installed on my woodshed. But recent reviews of the plastic ones are not good. The batteries can't keep them going through the night. When stopped, they still exchange a little, but are not bug proof. The fan powered air exchange is gentle and probably could not push air through a bug screen. When I used them on a prior boat, one pushed air into the hanging locker and another pushed air out of the head (each came with two blades). So they "helped" each other and did the job.
On a larger CD, I'd look at SNAD fastenings on the outside of the windows.
https://www.sailrite.com/YKK-SNAD-White ... gIwv_D_BwE
Then make a bug screen with a fabric finished edge and female snaps to attach. It requires going on deck to put on the screens, but they could be made larger (and not form fitting) than the window opening to discourage bug entry. Otherwise, the same thing could be done by using stainless snap screws on the inside. I used something like these.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Marine ... 2215&psc=1
For the inside system, the fitting to the window frame has to be more exact for it to be bug proof. Since the back of my CD 16 has just a fabric enclosure, I'm not perfectly bug proof anyway. What I do is light a bug coil immediately upon anchoring. It can be hung under the splashwell overhang in one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-8688-Mo ... B010ELPZRC
A coil will burn most of the night, long enough to keep mosquitoes away, and I never smell it. Worked like a charm on Lake Ozette, home of the world's largest and hungriest mosquitoes (often mistaken for woodpeckers).
Mark
On a larger CD, I'd look at SNAD fastenings on the outside of the windows.
https://www.sailrite.com/YKK-SNAD-White ... gIwv_D_BwE
Then make a bug screen with a fabric finished edge and female snaps to attach. It requires going on deck to put on the screens, but they could be made larger (and not form fitting) than the window opening to discourage bug entry. Otherwise, the same thing could be done by using stainless snap screws on the inside. I used something like these.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Marine ... 2215&psc=1
For the inside system, the fitting to the window frame has to be more exact for it to be bug proof. Since the back of my CD 16 has just a fabric enclosure, I'm not perfectly bug proof anyway. What I do is light a bug coil immediately upon anchoring. It can be hung under the splashwell overhang in one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-8688-Mo ... B010ELPZRC
A coil will burn most of the night, long enough to keep mosquitoes away, and I never smell it. Worked like a charm on Lake Ozette, home of the world's largest and hungriest mosquitoes (often mistaken for woodpeckers).
Mark
To screen the center front window I lined the edge of the frame (90 degrees to the face of the window, inside the cabin) with sticky back velcro, cut nylon screen to fit and sewed velcro around the edge of the screen. Works good, just a little hassle to open or close the window but has held up 10 years or more with frequent use.
Jay
Jay
I’ve had the solar vent since 2003 & had to replace it once during this time. It’s located directly above the Wallas & best use is for removing the condensation created when cooking or brewing coffee. Not enough air flow for cooling effect & wouldn’t want it to be as mainly used when cold & humid.
I have 3 solar vents and one passive vent on my current 25. They certainly move some air--but nothing like an open window. In several boats my "screens" have been military surplus "no see-em" netting. I glued velcro on both the screen and frame--very fast to open and close.
I have seen boats use "magnetic door screens" like This, Cost is $15 to $25.
Our current RV has asuch as thus Plisse Screen. Could be adapted for a boat.
On our sailboat we cruised AK for 4 seasons, we had no screens on any of the opening hatches. The issues were keeping the boat warm enough (with a 45,000 BTU diesel heater). We did have the small over head hatches in the roof of the pilot house: One over the galley opening forward, and a second over the dinette fasting aft. That gave use as good air flow as we would want. We did not find insects to he a major problem--and when they were, repellants worked fine. OF course part of that depends on where you go, and if you anchor out, vs areas with little air flow in Marinas.
I have seen boats use "magnetic door screens" like This, Cost is $15 to $25.
Our current RV has asuch as thus Plisse Screen. Could be adapted for a boat.
On our sailboat we cruised AK for 4 seasons, we had no screens on any of the opening hatches. The issues were keeping the boat warm enough (with a 45,000 BTU diesel heater). We did have the small over head hatches in the roof of the pilot house: One over the galley opening forward, and a second over the dinette fasting aft. That gave use as good air flow as we would want. We did not find insects to he a major problem--and when they were, repellants worked fine. OF course part of that depends on where you go, and if you anchor out, vs areas with little air flow in Marinas.
Thanks for all the thoughtful advice, everyone. Maybe I've been overthinking this.
I guess if the bugs get really bad, I can put up with a little additional condensation. Per the suggestions, I'll make a screen for the front window (I already have a forward hatch screen) and use a fan to help blow fresh air into the cabin. Between that and the Wallas stove, I'll probably be all right.
Thanks again, guys.
I really hate trying to sleep with mosquitos whining around my head, but maybe insect repellent and mosquito coils will be sufficient for my trip. I'm planning on leaving Seattle in early June, and taking about a month to get up to Glacier Bay. After a week in Glacier Bay, I'll meander my way back south, for a couple of months.thataway":2nhcwzul said:
I guess if the bugs get really bad, I can put up with a little additional condensation. Per the suggestions, I'll make a screen for the front window (I already have a forward hatch screen) and use a fan to help blow fresh air into the cabin. Between that and the Wallas stove, I'll probably be all right.
Thanks again, guys.
I got one of the O2Cool 10" battery powered fans. I cut the battery compartment off and wired the fan up to a 12v plug. This fan fits very nicely in the open center window and can be help in place there between the window glass and the frame.
We also hang this fan via a bungee cord in the v-berth opening at night. On low it provides plenty of airflow into the berth and blocks out the noises from outside when overnighting in a marina.
We also hang this fan via a bungee cord in the v-berth opening at night. On low it provides plenty of airflow into the berth and blocks out the noises from outside when overnighting in a marina.
Pandion":2vow77o0 said:
Never noticed the fan load in particular. It's not something I think about in terms of power consumption. We have a refrigerator, LED lighting, and various electronic gadgets (multiple tablets). Some lights are on all night. If we top up the battery to the high 90s % before retiring, even with the fan on all night, the battery is in good enough state to start the motor without an issue when we depart in the morning. The refrigerator is likely the biggest draw. Our house is normally supplied by a single Group 24 battery.
As for keeping mosquitoes out, I believe I could write a book. They will drive you nuts if you don't make every attempt to keep them out. After sealing all the obvious points of entry, some less obvious ones remain. The solar vent has been discussed, and mosquitoes can get in that way, even with the fan on. If your windows are open but screened, plug the top and bottom corners of the screen where it meets the track with little balls of damp paper towels; it's not a perfect seal otherwise. We used to plug the anchor rode hole in the windlass with a wad of paper toweling as well, but finally figured out in also was not a perfect seal. I've gone to using a couple pieces of soft, synthetic sponge to plug the hole and those form around the anchor chain to make a better seal. I believe we have, more or less, finally won the war.
We plug the "hole" under the gunnel between the cockpit and cabin with a SS scrub pad. Put a "Bounce" fabric softener pad in there also. Keeps the critters out of the cabin--a frequent entrance for mice and the like. The "Bounce" retells mosquitoes, gnats, flies and other insects.