Discovery and Hunkydory in South East Alaska 2015

Discovery

Active member
Well C-Brats, it's time for another grand adventure of "Oh the places we go..." featuring Hunky Dory and Discovery on their excursions in south east Alaska-Summer 2015. We'll try to give you the all important statistical data that fellow boaters need, some interesting facts about the places we visit, pointers for those of you that are contemplating this same adventure, and a few behind the scenes stories about the crew--which may or may not be totally true, but hopefully entertaining.

This trip has been done several times by Jay and Jolee on Hunky Dory but this year Jay graciously agreed to be the tour director and let Discovery and crew tag along. Planning began last year with both crews working toward an early summer departure from Skagway. Precipitation amounts and temperatures are projected to be best in June, July, and August for this area of Alaska. Preparations included thorough going over of the boats to deal with any questionable equipment and replacing where necessary. Also the high humidity and rainy cool weather makes condensation in the boats a constant issue. Both boats were fitted with hypervent under the mattresses and Hunky Dory used closed cell foam and flooring to make the cabin floor warmer and drier. Both boats have camper backs and this is almost a necessity with this climate. Living on a boat and traveling in remote areas require that the boat and motors are in good condition. It's not like you can call Boat US SeaTow with any issue. Both boats carry extra propellers, heavy duty anchors with sufficient rode and chain, and all safety gear. This trip was also a 2551 mile road trip each way which requires that the tow vehicle and boat trailer are up to the trip. Discovery had a little issue with this because even after we bought new tires, repacked the wheel bearings, had everything ready to go--we made it 40 miles before the first break down. That is a real "Oh Crap!!!!" moment. One of the Kodiak brakes on the boat trailer started to drag and the wheel got hot. We made it to a tire shop and after 2 hours of fiddling around, the guys there determined they couldn't get parts to fix it for at least 10 days. Not in the plan. After careful consideration we decided that 3 out of 4 was good enough. The tire guy removed the caliper and capped the brake line and off we went--watching the other wheel temperatures carefully.

An extremely important part of planning this type of boat camping trip is deciding what to take along. Water, fuel and wine are heavy and non-negotiable. Everything else requires a conscious decision. This part of Alaska has minimal places for provisioning and things are pricey. Boat camping doesn't mean staying in a marina every night--most nights are on the hook and that is the best part of it. If you have to shower daily, you can't wear the same clothes for two days in a row, and you run to the grocery store every day, this type of trip is probably not for you. There are lots of foods available that are light weight and easy to prepare. Just think about the amount of storage you have, the weight your boat can carry without sinking, and what you really need--not lots of room for frills.

Coming to Alaska requires that you travel through Canada to get here. It's really not a big deal but requires a passport and a few permits. Canada has regulations about what you can bring to the country, even though you are just passing through. Some people try to bring things that are not exactly within Canadian limits and if you do, you have a chance of getting caught and getting in trouble and I don't know exactly what would happen but it must be bad. Those people might act nervous and guilty. However our tour guide(Jay) does not bring anything that is not legal--he is the most honest person I know. But something bad must have happened to him because he gets really nervous. When the border patrol guy ask him where he was from (Cokeville, Wyoming) he couldn't remember. Jolee didn't know if it would be worse or better if she answered for him, or told Jay the answer. Anyway they still let him in and we all figured it must be Jay's age that made him forget lol.

We got to Skagway yesterday and have taken transient slips in the harbor (40 cents per foot for moorage, $10 per night for power, $10 launching fee, trailer storage $50 per month with free truck parking and pay showers) We are waiting on the weather so we can leave and head south on the Taiya inlet to Haines and then down the Lynn Canal.

One last observation for this first post--my old eyes are loving this country. It is more beautiful than I remember. We have already seen buffalo, fox, moose, beaver, otter, deer, antelope, and bear. It is an incredible place. Jolee told me a quote that was written on her granddaughters graduation program held the day before they left. It went something like this "Boats are the safest when they are tied to the dock, but that's not what a boat is for..." This is going to be an incredible journey--hope you enjoy reading about it.
 
Looking forward to the tales of this adventure! You four are all seasoned travelers, resourceful, and adventurous - what a great mix!

Have fun, travel safe, watch out for the bears, and keep us posted.

Best wishes,
Jim & Joan
 
We are all ears, and eyes. Have a great time! Thank you for taking the time and effort to write.

As I recollect that you have electric over hydraulic brakes on the trailer.
 
I am in total drool mode just thinking about where you are and what you are going to see and do. What an awesome trip. All the adventure and super scenery, incredible wildlife and uncrowded waters. Waiting with baited breath for the updates. I really enjoy your writings, pictures, preparedness, and will be checking in here frequently for new news.

Be safe, and enjoy.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Glad you made it to Skagway without to much difficulty. Can't wait to read your next post and view some of the photos you take on your adventure. Have a great time and a safe trip.

Bill
 
The WX has been small craft advisories almost 24/7. We are trying for a window to get to Haines at 4 AM tomorrow 6/12. If all goes well we can get out of the Taiya Inlet and toward better weather. I'll post from Haines when we get there.
 
Great write-up to what is going to be a Fantastic Adventure! We look forward to ALL the stories and pictures.

It's just after 7AM (EDT), so we're hoping the wx report is ok and you're preparing to get underway shortly.

When you get to Haines, find a copy of "If You Lived Here, I'd Know Your Name." Local author and a fun read about a great little town.

I'm SURE Discovery has plenty of fishing tackle! ... Going to be some GOOD eating! :-)

Looking forward to the next episode!

Best,
Casey&Mary
 
Thanks Scott & the well wishes of all others, we finally were able to leave Skagway about 4 am & are now cruising by Haines heading south down the Lynn Canal with hopes of staying ahead of the wind that's supposed to increase from our sterns this afternoon. We would like to make Swanson Harbor at the junction of the Lynn Canal & Icy Strait today. It is wonderful to again be cruising the waters of SE Alaska & especially so in the company of Brent & Dixie.

Jay
 
Bon voyage. Guessing you made Swanson Harbor ok since it looks pretty calm out there from here at the cove anyway. Can be two different seascapes between here and there though. Hope all goes well but remember to let us know if you need anything at all.
 
Yesterday we slow cruised down the Lynn Canal for 95 miles & spent the night at Swanson harbor located at the junction of Icy Straits & the Lynn Canal. Today it's beautiful weather, the likes, we only saw twice in three months during our 2012 Alaska cruise. We are now going up Port Fredrick near Hoonah to spend the night at a old logging dock. My SPOT device quit working so follow us both on Brent & Dixie's Delorme In Reach. https://share.delorme.com/FBrentBetenson

Dixie hasn't been able to wifi connect & I can on the IPad so I'm filling in for now.

Had a nice night at the old forest service dock with a otter eating fish on the dock between the tied up boats & swimming around trying to figure out what we were or at least what we were dong on its dock. This morning a whale came up fairly close to the dock & provided good entertainment. Before leaving Jolee & I walked to a forest service cabin a half mile away while Brent & Dixie were fishing & was kept on our toes by extreme amount of fresh bear sign. Tonight we're at the Hoonah Marina having loaded up on fuel & are now going to hit the showers, so to be ready for the 40 mile run to Elfin Cove tomorrow. The weather is supposed to hold, so have plans to go out into the open Gulf of Alaska from Cross Sound, circling Yakobi Island & enter Lisianski Strait to Pelican in the reverse of our past routes. 16 miles today & 151 total.

Steve, no way we could forget your past hospitality & help or the assurance of more if needed.

Jay
 
Skagway is a beautiful little town at the base some very tall mountains on the British Columbia and Alaska border. You wind down about 3000 feet on a road that would give concern with bad brakes. Brent used the transmission on our truck to slow our descent and we had no difficulty with our three good brakes. We passed through the U.S. border crossing and Jay did fine—He didn’t have to tell the Americans where he lived. Skagway has one grocery store, one gas station, one bank, one post office and one liquor store and between mid-May and Mid-September, 20,000 of your closest friends from all over the world. There are four or five huge cruise ships there every day from morning until night. You can buy tranzinite, gold and every other type of jewelry—probably at least 20 jewelry stores— and every possible type of t-shirt and nic-nac shops. When cruise season is over, the summer workers leave, and Skagway becomes the quaint little town with 500 residents.

We celebrated Jolee’s birthday with a drive out to Dyea on friday. That is the place that the gold miners came to begin their hike over the Chilkoot trail to the Yukon during the gold rush. In 1898 there was an avalanche that came down and wiped out the men up on the chillkoot pass. Very interesting history there. After our road trip we had birthday cake.

We waited out the weather in Skagway until June 13th and left the harbor at 4:10 a.m. Yes, it was fully light. We traveled down the Lynn Canal for 98 miles running on one motor at a time at about 2000 rpm. We traveled for 13 hours—yes is was still fully light —and used 21 gallons of fuel. Along the way there were several pods of Dal Porpoise and several whales that appeared to be young humpback.There were also large humpbacks in the deepwater of the Lynn Canal. Jay led us to a very protected anchorage in Swanson Bay where we tied to a public dock with several other boats. We left after a restful night and headed across the east end of Icy Straights toward Hoonah. We didn’t need fuel or provisions yet so passed Hoonah and went into Port Frederick. There we tied to a dock provided by the Forest Service. We’ve seen silver salmon jumping and lots of whale blows but no clear whale sightings today.

Jay posted on our stay in eight fathom bite in Fredrick sound--good job Jay. We came back to Hoonah and bought fuel. We got 4.51 mpg on the Tom Cat--damn amazing and HunkyDory got 7 mpg--also damn amazing. The temperature is unseasonably warm--81 degress today. Our Wallas gave us scare--seems many a Wallas comes to Alaska to die--but it turned out to be okay with it being only a power issue. Thank you Wallas God!!

It is so beautiful here. More info when we get wifi again.
 
Are you guys going fishing out of the Elfin Cove area? I am so jealous, have seen a couple TV shows, Larry Czonka North to Alaska, who fished out of there. And Don on Knotty C has, too. Man, I need to get up there!
Can't wait for more posts and photos!
 
Back
Top