Cumberland Island National Seashore

colbysmith

colbysmith

Active member
As I mentioned in the Hontoon gathering thread, I think we are going to spend our allotted vacation time cruising on the St. Johns River, staying somewhat more isolated. Thoughts at this time are to still launch at Ed Stone, simply because of my familiarity with it, and how it's worked out so well in the past. (And it's free!) Then from there maybe heading north towards Jacksonville, then on up the Intercoastal to the St. Mary's River and out to the Cumberland Island National Seashore. Has anyone done this before and have any advice? We'll have a total of about 19-20 days on the water. Just did some distance figuring on my charts, and looks like it would be very doable from Ed Stone, with some times in the Springs and some nice anchorages along the way. I'd plan on displacement speeds and no more than 30 miles a day. First stop and last stop could be at Silver Glen Springs. One night at 7 sisters Islands. And then anywhere else that is a good anchorage. Perhaps a few marinas.
 
Colby-
In 2016 we left our truck/trailer at Ed Stone and cruised to Jacksonville and Cumberland Island. It was a nice cruise and we enjoyed Cumberland Island. Walking trails, plantation tours, horses etc... It's on our "go back to" list.

We left reviews on Active Captain for places in that area I recommend. Using the search tool on the AC map page should direct you to where the anchorage markers with our reviews. (Let me know if that doesn't work and I could email you links)

Search for: Blue Rose Cove, Fort George River, Amelia Island Marina, Oasis Marina at Fernandina Beach, Cumberland Sound, and Plum Orchard

Because of 2016 Hurricane Matthew damages and Covids, I would check to ahead see what is open and operating.

FYI- Except for St. Augustine, there isn't as much to do/see south of Jacksonville, but instead of re-boating the St. Johns back to Ed Stone, we followed the ICW south to Daytona Beach and rented a car to retrieve the truck/trailer.
Jim
 
Colby,

Agree it’s a beautiful National Seashore. However, it’s not very friendly to private boaters with very little dockage and dinghy dockage that fills up with locals early. You can’t dock at the Ferry dock for the campground or the dock for Greyfield Inn. Tomorrow’s tidal range at Beach Creek is over 6 vertical feet (often over 10), and there’s a lot of current, mud, wakes and oyster shells.

We cruised from JAX NAS marina to Myrtle Beach via the ICW in June 2019 and Enterprised back to pick up the rig. Fernandina Marina has finally reopened; there are some wakes and train noise right by a switch yard.

https://www.fernandinaharbormarina.com/

Amelia Island marina is nice but has a shallow complex entrance. Only one train track.

https://ameliaislandmarina.com/

We love the southern St John, but north of Palatka to JAX it gets really wide, industrial and less interesting. There are some manatee zones near the downtown area and big commercial shipping areas. The ICW goes right by the Kings Bay Naval Sub base near mile 708. We were delayed over an hour while a nuclear ‘Naval Asset’ came in.

AGLCA loopers have complained about no security at the Coliseum marina and strangers walking on their boats, I would be reluctant to stay there. The downtown riverfront dockage never came back well after Hurricane IForgetWhich.

We suggest Plan B:
Get a Sunpass and a reservation at Faro Blanco Marina, trailer down to Marathon, launch at the ramp at 33rd St.

https://www.faroblancoresort.com/

Use the message function at that page and dockmaster will get back to you.

Measure trailer L and W and call Briers trailers for a rig storage quote. Secure, and they live on the property.

https://www.briersoutsidestorage.com/

Faro Blanco has a heated pool for the marina and another for the hotel. Putter from one key and marina pool to the next, up to anchoring out at Elliott Key, Biscayne Bay and back down to Key West. Beautiful turquoise water and mangroves. We just left Marathon early in order to get Covid vaccine #2 tomorrow in Pensacola. Then we’ll do some boat prep and trailer down to Ft Meyers for a Southwest FL/Thousand Islands/Everglades/Keys Adventure prior to the Hontoon Hoot. ‘Boat prep’ means ensuring that, as always, my boat is shinier than yours. Silicone is cheating, in so many ways.

Come on down! It’s a lot warmer and sunnier!

https://weather.com/weather/tenday/l/18 ... 1af493ef92

At least ask Rosanne which Plan she prefers...

John
 
Thanks Jim, John and Weeki Teki. Cool photos of the horses. John, what about anchorages? We did a few years ago do a cruise up to Jacksonville with C-Otter. I forget the name of the marina we used downtown, but we had no problems. Not much to do right there, but it was a good place to just park for the night. I don't remember if it cost anything either, but I believe we had electric. Maybe there was a drop box on the honor system. (If so, we did pay.) Mystery Girl, with Mike Moser riding along, and us went on out a little farther to where the St. John's dumped into the Atlantic. Mostly industrial, but still some cool sites. After Palatka the river did get wider, and a bit choppy with rain. There are some nice anchorages along the way, that we'd be fine to hit again on the way back. I thought about going to St. Augustine Jim, and we might still do that. A lot just depends on the weather and our mood. I'll have to look up all that information you guys have shared with us. John, the Keys are not out of our picture, but don't think it's the right time for us this year. I suspect part of the allure of the Keys, would be to be able to check out the local establishments as well, and Covid puts a damper on that. But again, flexibility is our key, and who knows where we'll end up. Bottom line is we know when we have to put the boat back on the trailer and start heading home. Colby
 
I agree with John about the Northern St John's. We did stay at the Coliseum Marina--no problems no vagrants. But we were advised not to walk ti the supermarket. We took the ferry boat to "down Town"--very depressed. I believe it will eventually be torn down and rebuilt.

There is a very strong current in the Jacksonville Coliseum Marina. Also water was not on at all of the mooring places. The plus side--no one came to collect fees.
 
This site is way north on the island, hikers would have to walk for probably fifteen miles to get there; can't miss the eroded tree as a marker

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Some more nice pictures. Thanks. John, I know you guys prefer the marinas, but what are your thoughts on anchorages in the Cumberland NS area? Jim, I still haven't searched and reviewed your suggestions. I'll work on that this weekend. My thoughts for what I know about Ed Stone up to Jacksonville. As I mentioned, we did that with a group with C-Otter a few years back as an after cruise. So I'm somewhat familiar with that part of the St. John's River. Although it was only one trip up and back, and not much side exploring. Once we got to the marina there in Jacksonville, Mystery Girl and Midnight Flyer took a day to explore the river out to the Atlantic. I turned around at the first buoy and Bill went out a little farther. Some interesting industry and military in that small section of river. I think we also found out on one alternate side routing, there was some major highway bridges we couldn't fit under, so had to turn around and go back the way we initially came! Distance wise, Tully B and I ran back to Hontoon in one day, but we ran fast the entire way. So if short on time after getting up there, I know I can get back to Ed Stone in a day from Jacksonville. A lot still depends on the weather and our mood after we launch. How is the Intercoastal Waterway from the turn off the St. Johns into the Cumberland area? Are there preferred channels around the National Seashore? Any warnings of where not to go?
 
We've been planning a trip to Cumberland for years, but have yet to actually do it. We have cruised most of the Georgia coast in the 4 years we lived there. One deterrent for us this time of year is if the temperatures are anywhere between 60 degrees and 80 degrees, the sand gnats will eat you alive anywhere along the GA coast. On the plus side the tiger mosquitos and biting yellow flies wont be out as bad until April when they start hatching.

Our plan is, when we actually go... is to cruise up the St Mary's River on the south end of the island and anchor at high tide, near Dungeness ruins, and use our paddleboards to access the island.

We'll be waiting until after the yellow fly season, and after the sand gnats have started hibernating for the summer so likely not until at least mid May for that to happen.
 
Well, that's good to know.... We're looking at the first three weeks of March. If they are bad, we may not stay in the area long. We do plan on taking our Kayaks as well with us.
 
YUK, ___ BUGS :twisted: I never think about bugs up here. So, is there a time when there aren't bugs? Seems like there would be bugs from Spring to Frost. Am I gong to be eaten alive in Sept, Oct or Nov.

Otherwise, sure sounds like an interesting area, maybe even add a couple of horsepower at times, if needed 8)

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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UK, ___ BUGS Twisted Evil I never think about bugs up here. So, is there a time when there aren't bugs? Seems like there would be bugs from Spring to Frost. Am I gong to be eaten alive in Sept, Oct or Nov.
Click to expand...

You sound like my wife now. :mrgreen: Yep, there are bugs. They actually haven't been bad on the St. John's River in early March, but Tom keeps telling me we don't want to do it later as the bugs are bad. Around here evenings can be terrible almost all year, except when we start getting cold. (Like now. Only going to be in the single digits above zero, and double digits below zero in windchill. Bugs can't handle that. Then again, I'm hating it the older I get too!) I don't remember them being bad up at Isle Royal. But the Black flies can be terrible in the Apostles and some other places during the summer. You just learn to keep windows and screens closed when they start coming out. Mosquitos are really bad at dusk. And fall can see some real nasty Mayfly issues. (Like wake up in the morning with a boat completely covered in them.) Colby
 
We were there the week prior to Memorial Day

Don't remember any bugs but...

the flocks of waterfowl flying over were magnificent

And oh, my wife says that the highlight of that trip was having Greg Kinnear join us there at the St. Mary's Seafood. Although he would not own up to his real identity. He tried the fried okra off her plate and then ordered some his self. Servers used to remember us, guess we need to go back; freezer is nearly empty of shrimp we procure a couple of hours drive north.

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Well, so far this has been a rather eventful trip. First event happened while visiting our Uncle on the way down. We had parked our rig on solid, but grassy ground. After raining all day, when it was time to leave, the all weather tires on the pickup just were not aggressive enough to push the boat and trailer back onto the gravel driveway. It had settled an inch or two into the now soft grassy yard. I was about ready to call AAA, when the neighbor landlord called a friend with another 4wd pickup to come tug us out.
We arrived at Ed Stone Park Sunday afternoon and took our time getting set up waiting for the circus of incoming boaters to clear a little more room in the parking lot. Finally ready between acts, we launched just before the second influx of boaters. Moved over to the larger dock to inflate and set up our Kayaks. By the time we had them ready to go, there was another line up of boaters coming in. I pushed off the dock, and then managed to become one of the acts… Trying to stay clear of the other boaters, I managed to get too close to the post and sign directly across from the dock. With the aft stowed bimini hitting the sign board and making enough noise to direct too much attention towards us, I then caught the tight to the side towed Kayak (Rosanne’s Sea Eagle) on the post, breaking the tow line loose as the Kayak’s bow handle it was attached to ripped from it’s attachment. Quickly reversing and dodging the post and other boats, we caught the Kayak and resecured it. Then smartly left with our tail between our legs…
Anchored in the first oxbow downstream from Ed Stone and had a nice peaceful night The next morning, realizing that we left the spare boat keys in the truck, along with having second thoughts about leaving our extra tank of Diesel Fuel for the Webasto behind (forecast showing some colder nights ahead) , we headed back to Ed Stone to pick up the keys and Diesel. Approaching the large dock in my typical slow fashion, at the appropriate time I went into reverse to swing the stern over and ….nothing….. increased the RPMS and still nothing….. Good thing for approaching slowly and soft wood on the dock. As we bounced back far enough to go back into forward gear, I still got nothing. And yes the engine was still running. I quickly fired up the kicker and used it to get docked. Lifted the main to find nothing but the hub where the prop was suppose to be. I’m out of ideas on what gave there… But I carry two spares, an older prop that came with the boat, and a brand new one. I put the older one on.
On to Silver Glen Springs, where we met up with Mystery Girl and Ms. Jill. Even on a Monday still pretty busy in the main circle, so I anchored next to Bill and Mike in that little cove near the marina there. Nice quiet night.
Next day we headed to Salt Springs. We were pretty much the only boats in there, other than a small houseboat that came in to spend the night. Had a nice time kayaking in here as well. Almost had another event on the way in down the run. A group of Hillbillys on a GA registered pontoon boat were fishing and moved off to the side as we three boats were coming up the channel. However as I got closer, it appeared they turned to head directly at me. However, now on my port side. At about two boat lengths, if that, and just about right off the bow, I finally gave them a quick WTF single toot on the horn. Santa Clause looking guy at the helm gunned it out of the way. Rosanne said I probably wasn’t getting any gifts next Christmas… Had myself all hyped up for BBQ and Ice Cream at Papa Joes, only to find out they are closed Mon-Wed…
Left Salt Springs after a very pleasant night, and cruised towards Welaka, and turned up the Oklawawaha River. Very scenic and unencumbered until just before the highway bridge. After that many snags and dead falls to contend with. And we did contend with them! Mike and I each got hung up once, bumped a few, and Bill also bumped a few. We did make it all the way up to the Rodman Dam. Saw plenty of Ibis, Egrets, and a few Eagles, Osprey, various Herons and other birds. On the way back Rosanne counted 14 gators. Also on the way back I managed to find a rather large snag or deadfall that both Bill and Mike must have just missed. With the fast moving current behind us, it was a battle that my prop lost in the end. Two blade tips bent over and a third missing. Two down, one left on props. This morning we’ll make a pit stop at the Welaka free town dock to put on my last prop. If anyone can recommend a place to buy another prop along and downstream here on the St. John’s, I’d appreciate it. At this rate, I really think I need to make sure I have a spare with me!
Oh, and then this morning, I typed all this out on my iPhone signed into C-Brats. When I hit submit, I got the sign on screen again. And all my typing no where to be found... Arrrrgggghhhh. Even though I’m enjoying thawing out and the scenery is spectacular as always, life has to stop being so interesting and become a little less stressful for this trip! Colby
 
Stopped at the Welaka town dock this morning and changed out my prop. All good now until the next hard snag... :shock: Cruised on up to Seven Sisters Islands and all three of us (C-Traveler, Mystery Girl and Ms. Jill) are anchored in behind the islands. Enjoyed a visit from James and Betty and the Molly Brown. Tom and Lew, if you are reading this, I sent the gauge I had left and the fishing pole holders with James to give you guys at Hontoon. (I would have given them to Mike to bring down, but he said after the past few days he didn't want that bad luck on his boat...) lol! Still hope to see you guys somewhere along the River though. Made some calls looking for another prop and seems like only SS for $$$$$ can be found. Did find a Jacksonville West Marine that has several aluminum ones in stock, so I may check into Ubering one to the Municipal Marina when we are there. Although Bill says he may rent me a spare he has if necessary. (I think he has been talking to John.) Mike, Bill and I kayaked around one of the islands here today. Really a nice area, but then where isn't along the St. John's River? Oh, we also ran up the Barge Canal just to check out the lock. Didn't do the lock, but checking out the hours sign, we could have. Plan to be in Green Cove Springs on Saturday.
 
Some photos from the last few days.

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This is all that was left, along with the hub hardware, where the Prop should have been!

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Kayaking in Salt Springs

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Kayaking in Salt Springs

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Mystery Girl

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Rodman Dam on the Oklawaha River

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See if you can find the little alligator in this picture!

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Lost the battle with a dead fall or snag!

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Changing the prop out at Welaka docks.

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Rafted up in Seven Sisters Islands.

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Kayaking in Seven Sisters Islands
 
Left Seven Sisters this morning, and cruised through Murphy Creek. The Noble Phoenix old car ferry is still sitting near the crossing at Dunns Creek. Sure would like to know the whole story to that thing, and who and if anyone is still living on it.
Stopped at the Palatka Free Docks to make lunch and stretch our legs. And check them out to update Active Captain. Found an earthcache (Geocache) nearby, so accomplished that as well. Winds were starting to pick up some out of the north, so the St. Johns was getting a little choppy.. We ended up pulling into Deep Creek (between Palatka and Green Cove Springs) to anchor for the night. Calm and beautiful. Plans are to go into Green Cove tomorrow, but not sure if that will happen. Weather forecast is for rain and wind. Out of the north. Don't think Green Cove's city docks are recommended in a northerly wind. We may end up just staying put here for another day. Or we may just run up to 6 Mile dock tomorrow. We'll see what pans out in the morning. I've been towing our two Kayaks. Looking for different ideas to stow them inflated on the roof, but nothing stands out yet. Don't think we'll be using them anymore until we get to the other side of Jacksonville, so I deflated them, and then put them back up on the roof.
 
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