Complete Overhaul 22-Cruiser: Some Opinions/Questions/Advice

M

MilesandMiles

New member
Hi Everyone,

I'm the lucky Brat who scoped up the 1989 Cruiser recently (and yes, I feel VERY lucky and blessed)

I've been doing some search engine research but still have some questions regarding upcoming projects.

Jack Plate: There's a good chance I'll be repowering with a late 90's Honda 90 long shaft (25 inch shaft) from another member. Does anyone have opinions on this? Can someone also direct me to a place in the Seattle area to buy a good one? If one of the dealers here have them in stock, I'd prefer to go that route. (Matt?)

If this motor is a go, I will need: throttle controls and the wiring from the motor to the batteries (for the starter and I believe the charging system) I've been looking at CL for these, but nothing so far. A good place to but these new?

Kicker: I currently have a late 90's Honda 15HP long shaft w/ electric start and a mid-00's Honda 9.9 short shaft manual start. I would like to install controls for the kicker inside the cabin as well (but if this comes later that's okay) My other cruiser ran a 9.9 and it seemed fine for 7-8 knot putting, would a 15 be over kill? The electric start is why I'm swaying toward it.

Radar Arch: I would like to install one on this boat so the dingy can slip under it. A good place in the Seattle area to buy one? Or by chance does someone have one for sale?

I'm going to hit the ground running next week and get as much done as possible. Cleaning like mad and as much of the above as possible.

Thanks,
M&M
 
Congratulations Miles! I'm sure you will bring that boat back to it's proud beginnings. Keith Richards restored his '81 22 footer "Catch 22" a year or two ago. Check out his album. Please take plenty of pictures. Looking forward to following your progress. Where are you going to homeport the boat?
 
I would be sure that you get the engine which "fits" the boat--and not depend on a jack plate. The C Dory manual calls for a 20" (long shaft) motor (at least 2006, and I believe all before in the 22's). By putting a 25" leg motor on the boat, you are raising the power head 5" over design--and also putting more force on the transom mounting--and a jack plate. (The 25" is an "extra long shaft"--and is what is called for in the C Dory 25)

There is not usually an external charging system--just hook up to the batteries.

Jack plates are made for move engines up or down a few inches, not adapt a longer shaft safely to a boat designed for a shorter shaft engine.

There will be little difference in performance between the 15 and 9.9 hp kickers-but if you own the 20", with electric start-- use it. The weight will also be about the same (except for the ES option). This is not a light motor, but a good combination. Also you want to be sure that this transom is in good shape.

Is it known why the current engine combinations are in condition to run? You will get better mileage with the Honda--but you can buy a lot of fuel with the differential in the cost of the engine swap out--including controls...
 
Thanks guys. I'll try not to burn down my cabin this year so I can actually keep it!:)

Those are good points about the weight being up higher on a jack plate. I found a couple of members here who have done it with E-TEC motors. I'm assuming lighter?

The motors on it now are: 70HP 2-stroke and a Nissan 8HP kicker. They might run, I have no idea. I personally have always loathed 2-stroke motors, and hoped to jettison them both ASAP for Honda or Suzuki.

I just posted a wanted ad on Seattle CL for a used Honda or Suzuki 90. I have nothing against NEW exactly (other than the price) the excellent deal I got on the boat itself could allow a NEW main repower if need be.

If I wasn't 1200 miles from Houston, there's a late 90's Honda 90 with 20 inch shaft for $2200 with controls. Tempted to take the rest of the week and go fetch it.

M&M
 
The Suzi 4 Strokes started in 2001 with EFI engines. Unless you're in love with carburetors, I'd think hard about an EFI type. Not necessarily Suzi's.

Charlie
 
M&M

My advice would be to clean up and make your new boat ready for next season. Then use it and if needed, you can plan for the repower.

We had a 90 two-stroke Tohatsu on our 1992 and it was a great motor that provided reasonable economy. The Johnson? 70 on your boat (if it is in good condition) will plane the hull with ease and give you a feel for the Dory hull. You can always spend more $ next Winter after you've had time to evaluate the boat and assess your needs.
 
My IRA gives you good advice. Go with what you have already and upgrade slowly. That will give you some experience running your new to you C-Dory. The 70 hp Johnson was the standard engine that the factory put on. A friend had one, used as a charter boat and once hauled in 800 lbs. of halibut and 4 adults and it planed very well. A 90hp Honda will be better but also more $$$$ output to make the change. I recommend scrapping the lift plate idea and go for a 20" shaft model as Dr. Bob suggested. Listen to him and you will stay out of CD trouble and have a great boat in the end.
 
dutch123":2dqx705l said:
You may want to look at the new yamaha 70 its over 100lbs lighter than the 90 hp and alot better on fuel :wink:
Click to expand...

Hey M&M, Congrats on the new to you. Maybe we will get to see you here on the water yet. As to the Repower, I would go along with the hold off group and see what it does with what you have, then decide. As to 70hp, I'd also be inclined not to go that route. nothing against the Yami's, I have 2, but my 80 horses are the least amount of power I would want to have for any serious cruising unless you are planning on a very lot of hull speed time, then maybe a 20 would work. I know they used to come with 70, but after 300 hours with 80 on the transom, I would NOT want any less and feel safe.

JMHO

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
If there is a good deal in Houston, then have it shipped--a lot cheaper than driving down there. A close friend rebuilds engines and ships every size from 8 hp to 250 hp; both outboards& diesels.

I would not assume the o/c outboard is shot. Even if you end up not using it, a running engine will have more value. I owned some older outboards that were still running well after 20 years use.

Ask why anyone is selling a good 90 hp. Needing a larger engine would be a valid reason....not "I had it rebuilt!"
 
Those 70 hp 3 cyl OMC engines were very dependable, and good performers. The most it may need is a carb cleaning. Change the oil in the lower unit, put on a new water pump and you are ready to go. Worst case is that it will need a need a new power pack (ignition module). 2 strokes seem to deliver a bit more power than the same size 4 stroke, and it is much lighter. I would tune it up and use it.
I think that you will be pleased.

There will be plenty of time for a repower in the future.
When you do, I advise as the others did, get a 20" motor.

I did a ground up restoration on a 1989 22 Cruiser 2 yrs ago.
Mine was in much worse shape than yours and all came out well.

Best of luck,

Tex
 
I agree with Tex.
The first powerboat I had had a 1972 3 cylinder Johnson on it.
It was a great motor. Just couldn't kill it.
Put spark plugs, lower unit oil and a water pump in it and just go.
 
Miles besides needing some new seats,electronics and that the kicker is on the wrong side of the transom, to me anyway,the boat looks good,definitely something you can fix up. I don't know what the hull/floor/transom is like , check those out for yourself.I would remove one of the mounting bolts from the main engine to check if there was any rot in the transom. Tug
 
The main motor should be a long shaft (20"). 25" is extra long. Be sure to get the right size.

Used motors are on the market for a reason- great deals are not always so great by the time it's on the boat annd running. We had a customer repower his boat with twin 140 Suzuki's. Because of budget he had us install a pair of motors he found in Florida.

By the time everything on the motors was fixed, and mounted, he was 80% of the price of a new pair, and he had no warranty.

That being said, there are some good values in used motors to be had, but buyer beware.
 
One other item to consider is the VRO unit. Many have pulled the oil pump and just gone back to premix. This is an option. It is not like the Fitch which has oil injection as the fuel is injected into the cyl.
 
This last spring I did another big round of work on the boat and will finally post pics soon. I did:

all new interior/ and paint
new rear bulkhead
power inverter

This spring I will:

finish transom finally
paint exterior
new electronics
new trailer

all $$ permitting of course
 
Miles – I am like you. When I want something different, I almost always do it. I would replace the old two stroke engine on your boat, but that being said, you should not rush into buying a four stroke engine right now. Take your time and find a good deal like you did with this boat. I know the current engine has not run for five years, but it won’t hurt to see what it will take to get it to run. If you are able to, it will be worth a lot more when you sell it.

When you get to Washington, let’s get together for lunch sometime.

Here is info on one of the best stainless steel tube men in the Seattle area. They do the stainless steel work for the Marinaut Boats and I don’t believe you can beat their price. He and his brother are good.

Shawn Flink
Custom Boat Rails
(253) 939-5477
19229 SE Auburn Black Diamond Rd
Auburn, WA 98092

Dave dlt.gif
www.marinautboats.com
 
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