Choosing the right windlass

Joe, I doubt the circuit breaker was designed to function as a switch, however, at least as we use it, it is opened/closed maybe once every two days while on the water so in terms of mean time between failures it will likely last a lot longer than I.
 
colobear":2z35blua said:
Joe, I doubt the circuit breaker was designed to function as a switch, however, at least as we use it, it is opened/closed maybe once every two days while on the water so in terms of mean time between failures it will likely last a lot longer than I.
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Thanks!

I have already edited the post above after some further investigation.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
FWIW. Our installation has both switch and circuit breaker. The breaker is normally left "open" to avoid the possibility of an inadvertant anchor deployment which could be, at the least embarassing, and at the worst dangerous.

Both are within easy reach.

M
 
When I set up my windlass, I put in four "switches" switches, plus the reversing relay that changes the direction of the windlass travel:

1. On/off power switch to the whole system.

2. Circuit breaker.

(First two in Series with Reversing relay to power & protect system.)

3. Up/down switch on dash panel to control direction. Comes out of and goes back to relay to control windlass motor running and direction.

4. Switch like #3 built into hand-held control wired to relay with ~10 foot long cord that can be led out of front hatch to operate windlass while standing on foredeck. This is so that windlass can be operated on foredeck while clearing jams and watching anchor retrieval more directly, etc. (Caution: do not have hand-held switch and windlass/anchor components in your hands at the same time!)

That the way I did it, for what it's worth.

On my Sea Ray, I did the same thing, but planned to add a wireless remote as well, but then decided to follow the KISS Principle for simplicity as well as not having to hope that no overhead plane or other source of radio frequency signals would randomly operate the windlass when I was working with the anchor/windlass on the foredeck.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Got the 50 feet of 1/4" chain and 300 feet of 1/2" 8-plait rode on the boat today and it all fit. I had to go up to the anchor locker and spread it all around a few times to get it all to fit.

SAM_8522.sized.jpg

I also put the 15lb Manson Supreme on the boat. This anchor does self launch on the standard CD bow roller.
 
20dauntless":3s2y240e said:
Got the 50 feet of 1/4" chain and 300 feet of 1/2" 8-plait rode on the boat today and it all fit. I had to go up to the anchor locker and spread it all around a few times to get it all to fit.

SAM_8522.sized.jpg

I also put the 15lb Manson Supreme on the boat. This anchor does self launch on the standard CD bow roller.
Click to expand...

You can build an extended bulkhead or wall up from the existing one in your photo to better contain the rode if it routinely spreads out too much.

Such a bulkhead can have a hinged door that opens downward and to the rear, permitting access to rode snarls, the windlass, the wiring, etc.

It would also help contain the odors produced by a wet rode.

Quite a few of the C-Brats have added this feature, and some may want to add a photo of their set up to this discussion for clarification.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I am leaning toward the Lewmar v700 and have Les at EQ do the install. I plan to still be on deck to launch and retrieve for the most part. How many c dorys have up down switches on the foredeck? Or do most of you operate from the helm. I don't want the self launch feature. I like to get my anchor away from the roller as quietly and gently as possible. I mostly want to retrieve the gear to save a shoulder that has been doing 30 years of Armstrong retrieves. I run 1/4 hi test for 45 feet then new England 1/2 three strand for 200 ft with 22 lb lewmar claw as my main Thanks. George
 
Our V600 worked great for us and we really liked the clean profile of the vertical over the horizontal. We had 50ft of chain and three strand after that. It was switched at the helm but I often wished there was another set of controls on the bow or just a remote that could be brought through the center window. You have to be on the bow to really control the last few feet or to do some weeding.

Greg
 
It is very easy to either put a remote at the bow, or make a corded remote. Just wire that switch in parallel with the switch on the dash. You can find a small plastic box, and get an on/off/on momentary switch (the switch stays only in the neutral position.

We have added the foot switches on the for deck of several boats--but there are dangers with this--and I would recommend against it on the C Dory.

You can also use momentary push buttons--green for down, red for up--again in a small box, and that will work well.
 
Here's my experience with a Lewmar 600: Lewmar V700 Gospel, and more discussion on the Lewmar V700 Installation.

I'd seriously think about a horizontal windlass. Nothing against Lewmar, but the horizontal has a better configuration to resist dirt entering the gearbox. As described, the V600 lasted for 5 years for use, but I would expect a horizontal windlass to never wear out.

The advice is free, but getting it cost $700.

Boris
 
Lots of info on windlasses thanks everyone. I decided to fit a Lewmar Pro Series 700H. Horizontal to maybe avoid failing seal issues and keep the motor above deck dry and leave the locker for rode. I was thinking I would need to locate a relay as Joe and Bob suggest to keep loads off the toggle. I was pleasantly surprised to find in the box a "contactor". Lewmar speak for dual direction relay. Also the toggle is now a micro switch with Up at the top and Down at the bottom. Nice fix as Barry pointed out it used to be opposite. It appears Lewmar has been listening. The windlass looks to be major overkill for a small boat but it looks sweet. Will post as I go along. The contactor is behind the helm with the other electrics so is easy to reach and work on. The breaker (flush mount) is in the starboard lazarette near the batteries and with the main breaker. Toggle switch is a protected recessed rocker style and is located on the panel to the left of the trim switch. So it is behind the wheel high enough to be able to sit normally and use power lever and helm and see the windlass. I plan to mark the chain at about 5 feet so I know where to stop lifting and go forward to clear mud and goo and stow the anchor. Then snug it up from the helm. Fun project. Believe it or not from the start battery on the floor in between fuel tanks across to the lazarette bulkhead and up starboard to the helm and then through the bulkhead used the 30 feet each of red and black 6 gauge I bought. Today I cut the 3 inch hole and mounting holes and will dremel undercut and epoxy fill. Tomorrow mount backing plate and bed. More to follow. :smiled George
 
Sounds very good, and well thought out! You will enjoy that windlass. I have put in several of the 700 H, and they have served me well. Now if I had only been smart enough to put in some type of windlass in 1962 when I purchased my first ocean going boat---It might have saved me one back surgery and multiple procedures. Far cheaper to have the Windlass!
 
Thanks Bob! Got all holes drilled and undercut borrowed a dremel off my buddy Ross (Pacific Wanderer) and epoxied. Temporarily hooked windlass wires up to dry test system. Closed the breaker pushed Up and the gypsy rotated aft. Pushed Down and it rotated forward. Perfect! Tomorrow redrill the holes, bed and wire completion and tidy up. Presto one windlass. fun job.
 
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