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Lewmar V700 windlass installation
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nimrod



Joined: 14 Jul 2008
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City/Region: Mount Vernon
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C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Berta's Boy
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 12:47 am    Post subject: Lewmar V700 windlass installation Reply with quote

I installed a Lewmar V700 windlass this this past week. I also drilled a rode locker drain hole. Pictures in my album.

jd
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Jack in Alaska



Joined: 17 Aug 2004
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Vessel Name: HIGH TIDE II
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 1:01 am    Post subject: Windlass Reply with quote

jd,
Let us know how it works in practice. I am considering one of those or maybe just a cathead.
Jack in Alaska

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On the HIGH TIDE-II, wife Carolyn and I.....Another summer fishing on the HIGH TIDE II in the Cook Inlet at Cape Ninilchik, Alaska.

HIGH TIDE-II; 2005 26' ProAngler; 2003 200 Honda / 2009 9.9 Honda high thrust
No. CD026021I405; AK-5008-AK
MSSI No. 338143486(cancelled)

HIGH TIDE; 1983 Angler Classic 22'; 90 Honda/ 9.9 Tohatsu-sold 2009 to son Dan (flatfishfool)
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ffheap



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JD,

Nice job. The windless will make single handed "yachting" much easier.

As you found out, if you approach the job step by step, it comes out just what you wanted.

Happy sailing.

Fred

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Captains Cat



Joined: 03 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had endless problems with my V700. Sometimes it will run fine for awhile (2 minutes - 10 minutes (while running on a new rode and chain) and then it will just quit. If I come back sometime later (2 hours - 10 hours), it will do the same thing again.

I have replaced the main ckt breaker, cleaned all the contacts on the up/down switch, verified all the connections good and voltage is present. I can't measure it under load (if it won't run, I don't have a load). Have searched the manual and cannot see any internal trip type motor protection. Can't call Lewmar today. I want to use the boat this weekend.

I just took off the old rode/chain, it ran fine when running it out. In winding the new one on, it quit after about 15' last night. This morning, I replaced the main breaker, checked all the connections (again) and then it ran fine until it got about 185' of the rode wound in, still have 15' of rope and 25' of chain to go and it's "dead" again.

Any help would be appreciated.

Charlie (BSEE, MSEE, E.Engr) Rolling Eyes

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tomherrick



Joined: 13 Apr 2009
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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Charlie,

Certainly no definitive answer, but I found this in the Product Description on their Web site: "It works at the push of a button and has two built-in features that make it unique motor protection and anchor lock."

I didn't see any thing about a thermal trip in the manual either, but the description makes me wonder what kind of motor protection they're talking about.
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Doryman



Joined: 03 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might check to make sure there is no water intrusion into the motor of the windlass. I sent Tom Herrick a busted windlass that exhibited the same symptoms, that I knew suffered from water damage, and he got it running after going through the motor.

Warren

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Captains Cat



Joined: 03 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. It's a new windlass, only two seasons old, has never worked just right. I finally got the line/chain cranked in by hand, going out for sundowners in an hour or so, I'll use the lunch hook if we have to drop anything!

I now suspect the up/down switch. I had thoroughly cleaned the contacts/etc. and after cranking the line in by hand and checking operation just before I reinstalled the switch, it still didn't work. I reinstalled the switch, tightened the 4 screws down and tried it again and it worked... Rolling Eyes

I will replace that switch.

Thanks again.

Charlie
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Rick from Maine



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Charlie,

After installing my winch, I had similar problems: intermittent operation. Traced it to the up/down switch (after multiple troubleshooting steps to eliminate possible causes). Called factory rep, who sent a new one in 1 day. Replaced it. Fine since replacement.

Until you get the new switch, try pushing in or pulling out on the switch while in up or down to get it working.

Rick from Maine
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Captains Cat



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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Rick. I took the switch out and apart last year, cleaned all the contacts and stuff and reinstalled it. I'm still betting it's something in the switch. I'll use the lunch hook until I get the new switch (it's on order).

After I get the new one in, I'll do an autopsy on the old one.

Charlie
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Les Lampman
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Joined: 30 Oct 2003
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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Charlie,

I know this means more money but you might consider not using the switch that comes with the V700 since it carries the full current of the windlass when in use. Instead you could install a windlass control box (aka, dual direction solenoids) through which the full operating current passes. Any regular switch can then operate the control box with only minimal current. This also has the advantage of letting you add a control switch (or switches) and/or a remote control anywhere you'd like. I've found the control boxes to be much more robust that the standard up/down switches supplied with the windlass.

[Of course you know all that with your background so I'm pointing out the obvious but it may also help others.]

Les

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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Les Lampman wrote:
Hi Charlie,

I know this means more money but you might consider not using the switch that comes with the V700 since it carries the full current of the windlass when in use. Instead you could install a windlass control box (aka, dual direction solenoids) through which the full operating current passes. Any regular switch can then operate the control box with only minimal current. This also has the advantage of letting you add a control switch (or switches) and/or a remote control anywhere you'd like. I've found the control boxes to be much more robust that the standard up/down switches supplied with the windlass.

[Of course you know all that with your background so I'm pointing out the obvious but it may also help others.]

Les


I did just that when I installed my Lewmar 1500 Horizon (Horizontal) Express Windlass on my Sea Ray.

For anyone contemplating such an installation , here are some diagrams to help. Keep in mind this is for a permanent magnet motor with two heavy current carrying wire leads, which will run backwards if the DC current is reversed. A three -wire, series wound motor will require a different relay.

12 Volt DC Reversing Solenoid Intermittent Duty





Shop around on the net. I got the relay for about $43, plus shipping. West Marine had it in their catalogue for $94, + shipping. Wink

Joe. Teeth Thumbs Up

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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here a start on current pricing: $$$

MORE


"Shop around on the net. I got the relay for about $43, plus shipping. West Marine had it in their catalogue for $94, + shipping." Wink

Joe. Teeth Thumbs Up[/quote]
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have owned 3 of these windlass--and am amazed that they will work with the switch supplied. All of the other Windlasses I have owned, utalilzed heavy duty relays, with cross over for up and down action.

We pulled the anchor rode and chain in preparation for selling the boat--and after washing it, put it back in the boat by hand. I under stand if you are anchored, that you want to use the windlass, but we always feed the rode in by hand when we pull it all out. It is rare to put the entire rode out, and I have wondered if the heat build up in either the motor, or switch may cause the problem which Charlie describes. I am not aware of any thermal relay--but the main breaker is a thermal protection.

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Captains Cat



Joined: 03 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all. I will use the more robust method if this continues to give problems. The U/D switch is the original one that came with the boat and the old 600 series windlass. The main breaker has never tripped.

The switch is on the way, I'll install it and let everybody know.

Thanks

Charlie
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Captains Cat



Joined: 03 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just replaced that up/down switch. Seems to work fine now, will test it in the river asap. If it was the problem, and I think it was, it was internal to the sealed switch.

If it fails again, I'll use the solenoid method.

Thanks all for the help.

Charlie
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