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Donald Tyson

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We are looking to have someone make us a Camper tent for our little 22. Does anyone know of a shop in the northeast within 4-5hrs of Easton PA (Philly/NY area)?

A few questions:
Since we have no framework to guide us we are also not locked in to any specific design:
1) is there any advantage worth paying for to make the tent cover the entire boat to include the splash well? Is this simply not worth it?
2) Since I do fish lightly is there any value to making the tent cantilevered?[imghttp://www.c-brats.com/albums/Thistle/IMG_1838.sized.jpg[/img]
 
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IMG_1838.jpg


Does anyone know what these are there ate two on both port and starboard. Were they for a Bimini?
 
Donald those might have been used to hang bumpers
 
Donald Tyson":3e6oxspl said:
IMG_1839.thumb.jpg
IMG_1838.jpg


Does anyone know what these are there ate two on both port and starboard. Were they for a Bimini?
Click to expand...

It’s funny that they are so close to each other but Ricka is right, it’s to hang your fender. Might have been to cleat both end of the fender so they are parallel to the water, as opposed to just hanging down.
 
I've read on several of your posts that you like too fish a lot. I do too and that is why i took off the back bimini cover over the cockpit as it interfers with my fishing. We do carry a Tommy Bahama unbrella with us for shade. It is handy and can be moved to the best shade advantage.
 
Maybe for Fender Board Use?

Just got a quote for $6250.
Stainless frame included.
$2900 Base Camper tent
$950 Rear opening panel,
$950 Port and
$950 Starboard panel.
$500 Zip in/out Potty/shower room.
$6250

He doesn't recommend the old vinyl isinglass as he says it only lasts a few years. Is that because he normally only does salt water boats along the coast? I thought Isinglass lasted a bit longer. If I insist on the old rolled Isinglass he can knock $500 off.

Thoughts


Moving on for more prices
 
Those two attachments are for a boarding ladder that slips into them. You have a set on either side in case you need to retrieve from either side. A boarding ladder like this one

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/stainles ... ble-ladder

And if you fish, there is an advantage to being able to fold the camper cover back to get it out of the way while fishing. Passing a rod with a good size fish around the supports for the canvas is no fun and if you use longer rods, the canvas can prevent you from backing up with a fish on and the rod up (as is often necessary to net the fish).
 
I have 2 extra attachment for the frame on the gunnel near the cabin bulkhead. I can remove my canvas, fold the frame and move it there so it doesn’t interfere with anything, like while fishing

You can see it there strapped against the cabin.
IMG_9014.jpg
 
I mostly fish for Panfish and the Bimini will be needed for a living room, lol. I like the cantilevered frame that some folks have.
Schuster":3l0g7rt4 said:
I've read on several of your posts that you like too fish a lot. I do too and that is why i took off the back bimini cover over the cockpit as it interfers with my fishing. We do carry a Tommy Bahama unbrella with us for shade. It is handy and can be moved to the best shade advantage.
Click to expand...
 
These receivers turned out to be to match the boarding ladder, thanks


rogerbum":3o9zwoyd said:
Those two attachments are for a boarding ladder that slips into them. You have a set on either side in case you need to retrieve from either side. A boarding ladder like this one

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/stainles ... ble-ladder

And if you fish, there is an advantage to being able to fold the camper cover back to get it out of the way while fishing. Passing a rod with a good size fish around the supports for the canvas is no fun and if you use longer rods, the canvas can prevent you from backing up with a fish on and the rod up (as is often necessary to net the fish).
Click to expand...
 
The price quoted you is a fair price. Go with the clear vinyl the canvas guy recommends. He is correct. A full boat cover is entirely different than the camper back. If you want a full boat cover, Angola Canvas has the patterns for the 22 and 25, and make a good cover at a fair price. I had purchased several.

The cantilevered frame is expensive--figure about 10 K for it plus or minus, vs the $6500 you were quoted. I like the cantilevered frame, but you cannot remove it to cash overhead if that is important to you. The SS frame, you can have a second mounting position, or on slides in the inside of the gunnal. Don't go for cheap stuff--it just does not last as long.
 
I purchased the full camper top for my 22 cruiser last year from King Marine Canvas here in Seattle. It included the vinyl panels, mesh side screens and privacy solid panels, all for $3800 + tax. Be aware that these camper tops with side panels require that snaps be screwed to the outside of the boat for a proper fit, so you will need to find someone to install them on your boat, and match them to the snaps on the panels.

Also, I don't think that Isinglass is the proper term to use:

From the Sailrite web page: Today’s Boat Window Material
As previously stated, isinglass was never a brand of window material. It was a mineral product commonly used in everything from carriages and street lamps to early automobile windows and boat curtains. Thin, transparent sheets of isinglass (aka mica) were used in boilers, lanterns and stoves — then later as lampshades with the discovery of electricity — because mica is heat resistant and less likely to shatter than glass. Its use soared during the 1800s and 1900s but has since been replaced by more durable and higher quality synthetic vinyl materials.

Today, brands like Strataglass™, Regalite®, Crystal Clear and O’Sea® are the new favorites in the vinyl window industry. Unlike isinglass, these brands are press-polished, which is a manufacturing method of taking two layers of material and pressing them together between highly polished chrome plates. This process produces one thicker polished sheet of the most optically and consistently clear window vinyl. Outdated isinglass material was at risk of yellowing, hazing, peeling and turning brittle over time. The brands of window material we carry at Sailrite are the best in the industry and will hold up to years of use while retaining exceptional optical clarity and durability.
 
I see a consensus to use better materials and to not skimp on quality. I may skip a top for this year as there are some other issues I need to address soon.
 
It is best to have a local canvas worker who can fit the canvas to your boat. I have owned good and not so good camper backs from King Canvas. I cannot comment on their current quality. It may also depend on who is doing the sewing.

Snaps are very easy to install--anyone with a pencil, drill and screw driver can put them in. Also putting them thru canvas is a very easy process, and a kit is available for about $10 if you only have a few to put in. I carry the cheap kits on my cruising boats to replace a snap if necessary. The more expensive tools are for "production".

I feel the best for the forward end of the Bimini is the awing rail, which is available in both plastic and aluminum. Look at SailRite for illustrations of all of these different tools, fittings and fabrics / Vinyls.

Check the headroom in the cockpit with your Bimini. Often the Bimini needs to be higher than the back of the cabin top.
A zip out front panel is often a nice addition--which allows more ventilation under the Bimini.
 
I have twin 40's. I believe it was both Thataway and Waypoint who mentioned that I should always try to dock on the port side??? is that correct?
We are putting the potty outside against the cabin. Should I block the port or starboard side with this potty?
 
As for docking, you don't always get to decide. You can have a preference, but wind and current conditions, dock layout, available crew and dock hands, and approach avenues will determine the side you dock on every time you dock. Personally I prefer to dock on the starboard side because it is easier to see the dock from the helm position.

One thing on the camper back, you might want to consider if you want the camper back to enclose the lazerette covers or not. Depends on what you keep in them.
 
Understand,

ssobol":3u3pgkvw said:
As for docking, you don't always get to decide. You can have a preference, but wind and current conditions, dock layout, available crew and dock hands, and approach avenues will determine the side you dock on every time you dock. Personally I prefer to dock on the starboard side because it is easier to see the dock from the helm position."

We want the configuration to be similar to the one shown below.

"One thing on the camper back, you might want to consider if you want the camper back to enclose the lazerette covers or not. Depends on what you keep in them.
Click to expand...
camper_side.jpg
 
I prefer to dock with the Stb side to the dock. The helm is on Starboard, I can more easily place the fenders correctly and I can often get hold of a cleat, lock line etc better than on the Pt. Side. I often have a boat hook handy in the cabin--one of two adjustable boat's aboard.
 
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