Canvas Question

K

Kelly Lynn

New member
For those who have a camperback on there boat. How is the camperback attached to the rooftop/pilothouse. Is it attached by rail or snaps? I am getting a camperback put on. Let's just say there really no C-Dory's out here and the individual who is putting it on is wondering.
 
Ours has a paddled/rolled edge that lays against the cabin top for a good seal and fastens with twist locks along that edge. I think snaps would be less than ideal for the tightness needed there.
 
On mine, there is a small Sunbrella strip that is semi-permanently attached to the cabin top, and has a zipper. The top proper attaches to the zipper. An aluminum or stainless channel is fastened to the cabin and the strip slides into the channel and is secured by a thickness sewn into it which prevents it from pulling out. Works very well.

Warren
 
Ours is similar to Warren's except that the permanently affixed channel is rubber. It has a channel on the rear side that the edge of a narrow strip of sunbrella slides into (it is a rolled edge, with a bead of some kind inside to keep it in the channel) That strip is only about 1-1 1/2 inches wide and has velcro on its upper side and a zipper along the rear edge. The main part of the bimini top has the corresponding velcro on the underside front edge with the corresponding zipper(s). The way it works is that the bimini top is pulled up and held by the velcro and the zipper is then engaged to provide a strong attachment. It works very well. I recommend you have zippers installed so they can be unzipped from either side, that makes it handy to get into or out of the boat regardless of which side is moored to the dock. The rubber is attached across the back of the cabin about 1-1 1/2 inches from the rear edge and the channel is just about flush with the rear edge of the cabin. The rubber is attached with pop rivets and has lasted 5 years with no problems. I will be glad to send pictures if you wish.
 
My new camper back was installed using closely spaced snaps only on the top. It pulls nice and tight and will do the job that I want it to do. Absolute water proofness, isn't achievable with camper backs almost every where else, so I'm not sure that sealing up the leading edge of the bimini part is too important. I may sing a different tune in the future after some real experience on day after day rainy cruising. I think this is one of those , there is no wrong answer questions. I do know that there is a lot of time when the sun beats down, and I'm happier having stainless male snaps along the cabin top rather than any UV sensitive materials like rubber seals that would be in the sun 24/7. Good luck. I think these boats need camper backs as much as they need engines. That extra room out of the weather, though small on my 22 is critical for my wife and for my own comfort.
 
Similar to Warren and Barry's, our cabin attachment is via a bolt rope sewn to Sunbrella with Velcro and zippers. That piece snaps to the cabintop sides, and can be removed. The bimini top zips to that piece and then Velcros over the zipper, making it connection reasonably watertight. It works well.

Jim B.
 
Sea Angel has snaps all the way around that used what the factory cockpit cover used. All the panels are set with zippers and snaps where they come to the hull or cabin surface. There are pixs in the album.

Art
 
Ditto to what Barry (Colobear) said in his posting above. Ours is very similar to Colobears. Definitely have bilateral zippers on top so that it is easier for ingress and egress when secured to a dock. This arrangement with the channel provides a weather tight (ie: no rain or wave action gaining access into the cockpit).

On our former 16' C-Dory cruiser we had the snaps on top and the rain definitely found its' way in between the snaps. This is not a problem with the channel.

Naturally, living in Western Washington, we have just a weeee bit of experience with rain..... :roll: .
 
This may be stealing the topic, but I'm finding it nearly impossible to "snap" the snaps on the side curtains from inside. I can do it from outside ok, but inside, when you need the curtains fastened due to wind and rain is very difficult. Has anyone found/ created a tool that helps?
chuck
 
I have snaps (male) spaced every five inches across the back of the cabin top. The bimini top has a rubber roll gasket about 1/2 inch behind its snaps (female). My CD 22 has been moored in an open slip on the Columbia River for eight years (24/7) with no water penetration.
See my album for pics.
 
Chuck, another brat turned me onto a tool that you use that is kind of like a slim jim with a notch in it to grap the snaps and put them over the attachment while you are inside trying to snap the outside. I had the same problem you are experiencing. Without the tool it is just about impossible, you would have to pick the snap that doesn't get snapped. The tool is available from west marine but I am sure there are a multitude of other places to get it.
 
Chuck, ditto to what lloyds said in above post. Should be able to locate at West Marine. A handy tool!

It is called a "Top-Snapper" and is on page 719 of the 2010 West Marine Catalog for a cost of $19.99. You may find it at other marine store outlets.

Here is a quote from the catalog...."This tool gives you the leverage and the grip to easily fasten and undo canvas snaps in hard-to reach places. The notch grabs the female side of a snap, and the handle gives you the extra clearance and leverage needed to snap a tight cover shut from inside or outside. Helps keep snaps from ripping out too."
 
DaveS":2ejly5w2 said:
Chuck, ditto to what lloyds said in above post. Should be able to locate at West Marine. A handy tool!

It is called a "Top-Snapper" and is on page 719 of the 2010 West Marine Catalog for a cost of $19.99. You may find it at other marine store outlets.

Here is a quote from the catalog...."This tool gives you the leverage and the grip to easily fasten and undo canvas snaps in hard-to reach places. The notch grabs the female side of a snap, and the handle gives you the extra clearance and leverage needed to snap a tight cover shut from inside or outside. Helps keep snaps from ripping out too."
Click to expand...

That tool is the best $20 you'll ever invest in your boat canvas!

Anyone who has experienced a shrinking boat canvas or need to set a snap from inside the enclosure knows the agony of needing a special tool to help do the job!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Ditto the "Top- Snapper" tool. Don't leave the dock without it, just like the Gas Key(well, almost).

Also, add a tube of "ChapStick" as a snap lubricant that will prevent oxidation.

The diameter of the applicator is the right size for the male snaps and the 'wax' stands up very well in the heat and WX.
AND, it is much less expensive than the 'commercial' products, plus it takes up less space and last a long time.

Art
 
The best way to attatch the forward and upper side part of the bimini, is with an "Awning rail"--These are available in aluminum or vinyl. Someone suggested that his might be stainless steel. I have not seen one in SS but it may exist. The awning rail in vinyl is flexiable enough to fit tightly to the aft lip of the cabin top--and to the upper part of both cabin sides. There is a narrow strip of "Sunbrella" Which has a zipper on the aft end, and the bolt role (as described) on the forward edge. Thus you can zip out the pannel between the top and the cabin for ventillatilon. This is very close to being water tight. We have run into 35 knots of wind, with 2 foot waves and rain and not gotten a drop in the cockpit under the camper canvas. I prefer the "lift the dot" over the simplicity snaps (which require the tool).

Camper_canvas_side_attatchment.sized.jpg

Above is the stb side of "Thataway" with the awning rail, and a zipper. The top zippers should unzip toward the middle, so that you can unzip from either side to get batter access if necessary.

Bimini_camper_canvas_in_construction.sized.jpg

This photo is of the free standing bimini--without the sides. The front panel removed, allows free air flow under the bimini. It is hard to see the awning rail--since the zippered piece with the bolt rope has been removed.
The lower snaps have not yet been put in place.

Note that this frame is 1" SS tubing. I was comparing it to the 7/8" aluminium which is on the Caracal' Bimini. The SS tubing, with SS fittings is far more sturdy, and less likely to bend or be damaged.
 
Hi everyone, just wonder how many of you have fitted padded canvas covers for the front windows for long trailer trips? I don't plan on off road or gravel but wonder if there is much danger of chipping a front window on main highways like I 5 etc? Planning on going to Lake Powell and Sacramento this fall. Thanks George
 
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