Broughtons

M

Marty

New member
Hey C-Brats,

I've come back to you again to get your help with a trip we are planning. My husband and I are excited to go to the Broughton's in Nakiska, our 22 ft. C-Dory. We've been to the San Juans several times, the last time being in the middle of summer. Decided that wasn't our thing...too many boats and people. We prefer a more secluded vacation. Anyway, we feel we're now ready to head up north and are wondering when the best time would be to go up that way. We're pretty flexible on the time of year. I was thinking early September, for fewer crowds, but maybe August would be okay, since it's so far up north. We have heard there can be problems with fog, which we hit in the San Juans, and was very scary, since we have no radar. With all the wisdom and experience collected here, when would be the best time? Or are crowds not an issue up there? Also, any suggestions on where to go and what to see while there? We have 2 weeks to spend on this excursion so we'd love to have your opinions on how to enjoy this trip the most. Oh, and we'd like to know where to get groceries along the way and what not to take with us.

Thanks for letting us pick your brains.

Jan (& Marty)
 
Are you trailering to Lund, or motoring all the way from Tacoma?

Most of your questions can likely be answered by the folks at Pierres Echo Bay Marina. Great people, and certainly a must visit location for services, the roast pig, and a visit to Billy Proctors Museum. Good jumpoff point for cruising the Broughtons proper, the Burdwoods, etc. http://www.pierresbay.com

If you want to concentrate on the Broughtons themselves, in lieu of spending time in transit, you might consider launching at Port McNeil. That will require paying the ferry tariff both ways on and off Vancouver Island, however, in lieu of burning fuel en route.

The Broughtons are beautiful, and relatively undeveloped, a huge contrast to the San Juans. Quiet anchorages require a little research, but are there. The folks at Pierres can help in that regard, also, though there are several guides as well. Fuel access may be scarce, so check on that before committing.
 
What didn't you like about the San Juans? Just too crowded? The answer to this question will help people direct you to appropriate places.

There are seven or so small, mom-and-pop marinas spread throughout The Broughtons. By late June they're getting busy, by July 1 they're packed, and by the beginning of September the crowds are thinning. I've found early June is less crowded than early September. My choice of dates would probably be May-early June.

Here are a few observations about Broughtons cruising...
1. The average boat is BIG. Anecdotally, the biggest of any cruising area in the PNW. Lots of 50+ footers. Mostly powerboats, too.
2. Life at marinas revolves around happy hour. By 4 or 5 in the afternoon people congregate on the dock, officially or unofficially, with drinks and appetizers. Each boat typically brings their own drinks and food to share. Some people get very competitive about what food they bring, preparing pretty elaborate dishes.
3. The Broughtons is the most social cruising area in the PNW. A lot of the cruisers have been going year after year and know each other and the owners of the marinas. If you're not a social person or a fan of happy hours, the marinas may not be your cup of tea.
4. In peak season the marinas fill up, especially for special events (like pig roasts at Pierre's).
5. Fish farming and logging are surprisingly prevalent. Quite a few scars on the hillsides from recent clear cutting and some anchorages are unusable because of fish farms.

Many people love The Broughtons. But I've met quite a few who really dislike the social side of things, especially sailboaters. Just something to be aware of in advance. I'm somewhere in the middle—I enjoy it for a few days, but my liver wouldn't be happy if I spent the whole summer there.
 
We went "thru the Broughtons" 8 times--never visiting every place, and never spending more than one night in one place. In the C Dory we made these our objective for a month trip. With a 22, I would strongly recommend launching at Pt. McNeil, and avoiding the week trip up and back. The reason is, that weather can turn nasty, and make progress difficult. True, you have to cross Johnston Straits, and you want good weather for that. But you don't have to deal with a number of passes, and adverse current.

Yes, there are a number of marinas, but they are a lot of fun, and each tries to outdo the other (and none really out do Pierre's. Be full of fuel when you start. A couple of the marinas were thinking it was their last season (back a few years ago, during high fuel costs and the recession--so check to see who is open.

There also many isolated anchorages to have all to your self. We had seen the Broughtons as Sam did, but after spending several weeks dedicated to just enjoying them--they have a life which is very charming.

On the C Dory trip we went late June/Early July--not too bad, but as noted, get to Pierre's well before the pig roast day. Usually a C Dory can be fitted in somewhere.

My mid Sept. things begin to shut down. Their season is very short. Also by mid to late Sept. the weather can be more of a factor.

Then there is the trip up there, with many great stops along the way--and enjoyable in its self. but for even touching some of the great places you need at least a month.

If you stock up at Port McNeil, you should be OK for 2 weeks. Enjoy the various meals which are available in the Broughtons. The folks who live there go into Port McNeil to get supplies. There may be some rudimentary groceries at some of the marinas, but not enough to count on--at least in the past when we went there.
 
I think Sam and Bob have accurately described what to expect - and when. I am pretty far at one end of the scale Sam described in terms of likes and dislikes in boating ambiance. This is what Pierre's looked like when we were there in May this year:
[ATTACH=full]114440[/ATTACH]
No lines, no waiting. (Of course, no pig, either.:lol:) It suited us perfectly!

If you want to minimize your exposure to fog and weather-related rough water, trailer to Lund. If you don't want to deal with exceptional tide swings and tidal currents, trailer to McNeil. We've done the whole trip by boat from Olympia north to the Broughtons (and beyond) several times, but we have radar. We've also stayed put in a safe port from time to time. We've also been bounced around pretty good by the Strait of Georgia and Johnston Strait. You can fine tune your plans quite a bit to suit your desires, but in the end be prepared, be cautious, and be flexible.
 
All have given great advise. We go nearly every year and launch in Blaine because we have family there. If you are going through the Str. of Georgia there is the possibility of poor conditions (more so than any where else except Johnstone Str.) We have had to wait out weather for a couple of days in Secret Cove or Hospital Bay. You can eliminate Georgia Str. by trailering to Lund, which is where we always stop to fill tanks. There are a number of great marinas & anchorages between Lund and Sullivan Bay. Sam can fix you up with a Waggoner's cruise guide. Desolation sound is a very beautiful area. I like to anchor at Prideaux Haven, Squirrel Cove and head to Blind Channel. Then Lagoon Cove and the rest of the Broughtons. On the way back we like the marina at Gorge Harbor and Mansions Landing. There is to much you miss if you tow to Port McNeil. Just my 2 cents.

Radar has become very reasonably priced I would recommend that upgrade for any of these routes. Many of the C-Brats have albums of the trips through that area, that might also give you some ideas.

You will love your experiences, a good cruising guide helps you plan for the type of adventure you want.

Gene & Margaret
 
Thanks for all the info. A quiet anchorage is more to our liking than a marina happy hour (we're not big drinkers). Though we have enjoyed meeting people, we work with the public so we kind of like to get away from it all. The Broughton's are not etched in stone for us. We are still new at this so if someone has a different suggestion for us, we're open to that. We loved the San Juans when we went before the major summer season. We were planning on trailering up to Pt. McNeil. Thanks again for all your help.

Jan
 
I went in June. Be prepared for moist conditions. It isn't Desolation Sound warm. The big party marinas can be fun but it's easy to find seclusion. I like Bob, launched at McNiel. Saves some potential issues in Georgia St and notorious Johnstone St. Pierres is a fun stop. Be fat on fuel to start and buy it where you can. The whole area is great cruising. Read up on the area with some of Bill Proctors books. It's remote so cell may be weak. August increases for fog. It's called Fogust for a reason. George
 
I worked at Pierres at Echo Bay for many years, even before it was Pierres.
Everyone here has given you great information.
Drop me an email if you need any specific information and I would be glad to throw in my 2 cents worth!
Dave
Raven Dancer
drlaabs@comcast.net
 
Well, obviously a lot of people have been to the Broughtons. And that includes Journey On. We combined that trip with a tour of the West Coast of Vancouver Isle.

Here's our web page of the Broughtons and for free, we've thrown in Vancouver Isle, including Nootka Sound: Journey On in the Broughtons . We found quite a few nice anchorages and when the weather was bad, nice marinas.

Pierre's was great, because we met friends there, but we certainly were the smallest boat there. Don't miss Billy Proctors Museum. It show how the Broughtons have changed in the last century.

To save travel time, we left from Port McNeil, at the top of Vancouver Isle. Of course that means you take the ferry, which was interesting.

Here's our favorate anchorage. It's just beautiful.

Waddington%20Bay%20Boat.JPG


Boris
 
Even before we moved to Blaine full time about a year ago, I would second Gene's recommendation for a Blaine launch. OK, there is about 30 or so miles of boring transit to get north of Vancouver (watch your chart plotter as you are passing the mouth of the Fraser River and stay WAY out or you will be sorry!), but running 15 knots, the Strait of Georgia allowing that, this is not a big deal. It is a $7 launch and free parking at Blaine, so it is WAY less expensive than a ferry to Vancouver Island to save a few dollars on fuel! You can make the Sunshine Coast in one easy day, weather permitting.

Once you get to the Sunshine Coast, you have a lot of cool stops! Stop 1, Smuggler's Cove (the Inner Cove is so cool, we love that place!), then Stop 2, Pender Harbour, let Ian and Jackie Grant (Sea Sprite) know you are coming and you will have a great time! Fuel up in Pender Harbour. A detour for Stop 3, you MUST see Princess Louisa Inlet! Stop 4, at least a couple of the cool places in Desolation Sound, you pick them! I am partial to Von Donop Inlet. You are then right at the entrance to "the Johnny," you can actually enter it a bit farther north if you study your charts and don't mind a few rapids. And then you are there, you come out at Blackfish Sound and cross over to Sullivan Bay, and the rest of the Broughtons are right there for you!
 
Nobody else has said it, but I'd highly recommend getting a radar! Especially if you are boating offshore. I'm not one for going out into fog, but I have needed it several times to come back in. It's still a little nerve wracking to be in thick fog, but you have one more piece of navigation equipment to help with a safe voyage. Colby
 
Just a great place to visit, and well described already by other members.

My biases are:

Launch in Blaine or Anacortes rather than trailering up Vancouver Island. There are a lot of nautical places to visit enroute, and getting around by boat is why you have the thing. The weather can be a problem, but not if you decide in advance to just stay in port when conditions are bad.

Absolutely buy a radar unit for you boat and learn how to use it. Unlike stormy weather, fog can be patchy and difficult to predict. Fog also occurs more often on calm, flat days, when there are a lot of boats moving about, not all of whom know what they are doing.

If you go slow, the GPS will pretty well keep you from hitting rocks, but rocks are not really the dangerous part. It is the 80 footer with a guy at the wheel, beer in hand and radar too poorly tuned to pick up returns from your small C-Dory unexpectedly looming right at you out of the fog doing 20 knots and 100 yards away, that will really give you a fright.

It happens more often than you would think, and particularly in a small boat, it is what you need radar for.

Kevin Ware
El Gato Thomas
CD Tom Cat 25.5
 
A few comments. Jan (of Marty,) mentioned they have 2 weeks. So, here we are:

Laying out a course from Blane to the top of the Strait of Georgia, past Cape Mudge, through Johnston Strait and up to Queen Charlotte Sound is 200 nmi. Each way. And yes there are beautiful places along the way. That in itself would be a great trip.

So, let me present an alternate. Leaving Tacoma, drive to Port Angeles and take the Black Ball ferry to Victoria. Then drive up to Port McNeil, launch and one can be in the Broughtons in a couple of hours. Saves a lot of time if you only have 2 weeks. The Broughtns are lovely and a couple of days can't do them justice.

A comment about Pt McNeil. You can leave your boat in the Harbour parking lot, but the safest place is the secure storage run by the Auto Parts Store. We paid and used the Harbour storage and the Auto Parts Place towed the truck and trailer anyway. i guess they feel that they have a monopoly on long term storage but no-one told us. We got the truck and trailer back, but it was an interesting experience. Just use the "secure storage" in the first place.

We went to Desolation Sound this August and there were relatively few boats. We were shocked, but fuel prices must have cut the cruising that far up north way down. Based on that scenario I'd think that end of August, first of September would be great. While anchoring out is great, don't go late enough so that everything is shut down. The weather should hold through the middle of September.

Also, entering Canada towing your boat is a lot simpler than having to go to a port of entry. We just crossed the border as any RV would do and we were set. No Customs number, no phone call.

Boris.
 
I totally agree with Boris on towing to port McNeill. Have the customs agent stamp your passports so you have a record of entering the country. Everyone else will have a clearance number to verify their legal entry. The Passport stamp is your verification.
 
In case you haven't already read it, pick up a copy of Bill Proctor's "Full Moon, Flood Tide". It's an interesting read of the early days in the area. Now if I could just find the lost treasure he mentioned...
 
if you are going to trailer up here I would really consider launching out of telegraph cove. very good ramps and tons of parking. I have never had any issues with security here . the crossing is much shorter into the protected area of the lower broughtons around swanson island and white beach pass via hanson island either north or south end depending on wind direction
 
Well, if cost is no issue, then yes, take the ferry...if you value your $$$, then a Blaine launch is really the most sensible alternative. Clear customs at White Rock, five minutes from Blaine. You get to see the Sunshine Coast and Desolation Sound. Time is a non-issue unless the weather is absolutely crappy (of course it could be), you will be in the Broughtons in two days from Blaine. Your choice!
 
unless the weather is absolutely crappy (of course it could be), you will be in the Broughtons in two days from Blaine
Click to expand...

If the Westerly is blowing in the Johnstone Strait, that 2 days could turn into a week. In 2013 I waited 4 days for the wind to let down in the Johnny!

Best to start following the Johnstone Strait forecast a week or so prior to your trip to help with the decision to go by boat or ferry. Link to Johnston Strait weather http://weather.gc.ca/marine/forecast_e.html?mapID=03&siteID=06800
 
serenitymay1995;

Telegraph Cove looks like a good place to stay and probably has a better launch ramp. Is there a restaurant nearby?

One thing is that if you have a tow vehicle, you can tour Port Hardy and better yet, you can visit Coal Harbour which is at the head of Quatsino Inlet on the west side of Vancouver Island. Visiting Vancouver Island's west side is a wonderful trip, as good as the Broughtons. We did it by truck and boat.

Pat,

I don't think the difference is as much as you think. First of all, one has to buy fuel for the boat @ $5.50/gal and 4 mpg while the tow vehicle uses gas @ 5.00/gal and 10 mpg.. For the trip, say both the boat and truck travel 250 smi each way (500 smi RT.) The difference is 75 gal more for the boat, which comes to $412 US. I know Canada does liters and km, but my numbers are for us Americans in US $s. The tow vehicle drives from Nanaimo to Telegraph Cove, whilst the boat goes from Blaine to Telegraph Cove. Both appear to be ~250 smi.

And I assume the ferry used is from Vancouver/TSAWWASSEN - DUKE POINT/Nanaimo. The cost for a round trip (from the latest fare listing) is $360 US for 2 people and a 40' rig. The Pt Angeles ferry is twice as expensive, and the drive from Victoria is ~50 mi further, so that route doesn't make sense.

So, if you compare the ferry against the additional boat fuel, you're saving ~$50 and 2 days. Another big plus for the ferry is you bypass Johnston Strait. Yes, we also waited for a week, listening to the weather reports predicting 30 knt winds. That's heavy for a C-Dory.

Another plus (to me) is the ferry trip, which is great and also the chance to drive the length of Vancouver Isle.

Boris
 
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