Bow sprit, Anchor Sprit, more.

D

Donald Tyson

Member
On my last Sailboat there was a bow sprit for the anchor and other various items/connections. It worked great a kept the Danforth away from the gelcoat. I want to extend the current anchor roller to receive the new Guardian (fortress).
I’ve yet to install the new drum windlass. I also would like fair leads and dual cleats. Seems to me it could all be put together as one and then be bolted down as one.
I mentioned this before and was encouraged strongly not to do so. I’d sure like to know why not? I’m at the northern Chesapeake AGLCA rendezvous and is seems well over half the boats have nicely made anchor sprits, some quite complex. They look perfect to adapt a scaled version for my use.
 
I figured out why a few said not to install a bow sprit. It’s because I’m calling it by the wrong name. It’s not a bowsprit but rather I’m talking about the pulpit upfront. I was using the wrong name sorry. But here at this marina are some awesome pulpets. .


“I mentioned this before and was encouraged strongly not to do so. I’d sure like to know why not? I’m at the northern Chesapeake AGLCA rendezvous and is seems well over half the boats have nicely made anchor sprits, some quite complex.”
 
Most of the power boats with Anchor Pulpits are made into the boat at the factory. You could make a mold, and do a one off--or even sell them to other C Dory owners.

However, If you want to just get the anchor out further from the hull, then buy a Windline anchor roller, and bolt it on. These are available in different lengths. You can put cleats and or anchor rollers/fairleads to your hearts content on the fore deck. You are going to be paying a price: that of easy movement around the foredeck with the anchor drum.

Fair leads I would think long and hard about. I just put a SS 1/4 round on the side of the gunnel. This keeps the lines from chafing on the fiberglass. If you put in a fair lead, or chocks, you may bend the line sharply. I prefer to use two each cleats on the side for snubbers, and if necessary for the dock lines. You don't want to clutter up the foredeck. If you do, it makes tripping hazards for a crew member working there, such as may be necessary going thru locks, rafting or docking.

When I rebuilt the Cal 46, I had to get the lOA down to 45'. I removed the single anchor roller, and had fabricated a new Double anchor roller out of 1/4" and 5/16" SS plate. I fixed a SS plate on the deck, tapped for 3/8" flat head machine screws, (with allen key flat heads, so no sharp edges to damage a rode). It was removable and could be placed on the deck in a reverse configuration, so it took 12" off the LOA as measured on the deck. It was a double roller set up. Custom made like this is expensive, and probably overkill for the C Dory.
 
I have one but it is too short:
"then buy a Windline anchor roller, and bolt it on. These are available in different lengths. "

Bingo!
"You can put cleats and or anchor rollers/fairleads to your hearts content on the fore deck. "


While I don't see an absolute need for Fairleads there are some things I need to think about:

"Fair leads I would think long and hard about. I just put a SS 1/4 round on the side of the gunnel. This keeps the lines from chafing on the fiberglass."

Time is on My side....got some thinking to do.
 
Dr. Bob,
I searched for chocks and also Bow rollers and lo and behold I ran into one of your posts of the anchor set-up on your 25 C-Dory, 'That Away'. I think it was a 2007 that you had.
In the photo you show a windlass inline with a large cleat and an anchor roller. Then on the sides you have two cleats upon which you deployed your port and starboard anchor snubbers/bridals.

My drum winch will be located just ahead of the raised cabin area with the proper length of distance from the bow roller to assure the proper launching of the anchor, rode and all. That big center cleat will be in the way and so I had figured to remove it and replace it with two cleats about 4-6" apart and the snubbers or dock lines would be run through Bow-chocks mounted onto the gunnels.

From the idea of wear and tear is there any need for Chocks in such a light boat. If not then I could just place the new cleats outboard to where the Chocks would normally be mounted.
I guess to some degree I assumed matching chocks and cleats should be on all boats but a walk on the docks yesterday, looking at modern cruisers revealed that perhaps I'm living in the past, in the age of varnished fordecks and gunnels. On many of these boats, Where the chocks would have been in a bygone era there was sometimes low strips of polished stainless steel protecting the gunnels. Most boats had nothing.

What started this whole subject of installing a bow pulpit was the fact that my existing bow roller is not long enough to accommodate my new Fortress anchor without the fluke damaging the bow of the boat. I was looking for an easy way to make it longer. How would you extend or lengthen the anchor roller about 4"?
 
Measure the current roller, and add about the 6"--there should be a Windline which fits.

I would leave the main cleat in place. It is sturdy, and made to take a load. The Smaller cleats are fine at the outside of the deck. If you look at the photos I have probided these are outboard, and the center cleat is still in place. IF you put chocks in then you will have a sharp bend around the aft part of thr the bow line in when at many docks. If it is a tie up for months then you want a fair lead to the proper point.
 

This is in the way of the anchor line.
if you look at the photos I have provided these are outboard, and the center cleat is still in place.
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I see this. So cleats on or near the gunnels may be better and is what I saw the most, by a wide margin, when walking the docks and boat yards recently.


IF you put chocks in then you will have a sharp bend around the aft part of the bow line in when at many docks. If it is a tie up for months then you want a fair lead to the proper point.
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The manufacturer of the Drum windless assures me that I will never need to cleat off due to the worm gears in his product (not sure I agree). I doubt I'll need the big strong center cleat. Furthermore, depending on whether I un-ravel the rode over the top (creating more of a tripping hazard) or un-ravel under the bottom the cleat might be in the way.
 
Fairlead to the drum will very with the place the line on the drum is when the anchor is fully up and seated. The height will be dependent on the line coming off the top or bottom of the drum. The anchor line (probably chain) will always be a tripping hazard on the foredeck. The chain may damage the deck--some put a teak board along its path. You are correct that the chain or line may go over the cleat. I doubt that it will be low enough to be flush with the deck.
 
IMG_2306.sized.jpg

Here is your image of the drum and chain cross the deck. How is this going to clear the large center cleat as it level winds (?) are. you going to have to guide the line to keep it level winding? I see a lot of problems with what you propose. How much line will that drum hold? Are you going with a different line? Spectra Dyneema or /Amsteel-blue? Pluses are longer line for size of reel, stronger line for measrement. Negatives, no stretch, not easy to "hand". (many others + or -.

Why not put the drum and windlass further forward? that would leave the cleat and rest of the foredeck clear and avoid the cleat and the chain as tripping hazards?
 
-Here is your image of the drum and chain cross the deck. How is this going to clear the large center cleat as it level winds (?)

I'have been chatting lightly with a few owners of these fine winders. Most of them like my placement all the way back at the cabin. I'm reversing the motor as it will allow the rode wind out the bottom, more or less along the deck. The winch will mount exactly on the holes to the removed Main Cleat. New cleats (if there is a need for them) will be mounted neat the Gunnels P&S. The Main cleat will not be needed any more due to the nature of the worm gears. At some point I do see wanting more cleats but I do have the others. I guess you sort of can't ever have enough cleats and attachment points.


-Are you going to have to guide the line to keep it level winding?

There won't be any need for help in retrieving the rode and it will wind level. I will eventually lengthen and change the bow-roller to a self launching and longer roller unit. It is okay with the Claw Anchor. But for the primarily sandy and mucky bottoms of my home areas I will want the Guardian up there. Currently the flukes are too long on my Guardian and hit the bow easily.

- I see a lot of problems with what you propose. How much line will that drum hold? Are you going with a different line? Spectra Dyneema or /Amsteel-blue? Pluses are longer line for size of reel, stronger line for measrement. Negatives, no stretch, not easy to "hand". (many others + or -.


Although the spool can hold 600' of 3 or 4 mm line I will be using a Hybrid line. It will look something like this: attached to the anchor will be 20-25' of 1/4" chain, then a couple hundred ft of Dyneema 4mm (or a bit less 6MM) and then filled with 3/8" or 7/16" dbl braid of some sort. They usually want 40' of 6mm or 8mm at the chain and then switch to 4mm. these dyneema ropes braid together very nicely and My new Fids can't wait to be used.
I plan to use the 150' Dbl Braid 1/2" line curently in the Chain Deck Pipe as a spare line incase I have to cut away the main. It will set there with a shackle ready to deploy (same on the stern) .

-Why not put the drum and windlass further forward? that would leave the cleat and rest of the foredeck clear and avoid the cleat and the chain as tripping hazards?[/quote]

The closer you go to the anchor roller ring (yes a ring is recommended) the more you open yourself up to the possibility of tangles on the winch spool.

The goal will be to truly not need to go forward to set the anchor.
 
Why do you assume the reel will level wind? The chain will then drag along the deck. what are you doing to protect the deck?

If you are using the mounting holes of the cleat, that means moving the reel further forward.

With no bow cleat, how are you going to atatch snubbers? How about bow lines when you tie up to a dock?

Will the worm gear run equally well in forward and reverse (Many do)?
 
http://www.c-brats.com/albums/Thistle/5 ... 19_n_1.jpg


thataway":3ttxhnyg said:
-Why do you assume the reel will level wind? The chain will then drag along the deck. what are you doing to protect the deck?
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thataway":3ttxhnyg said:
Well, they seem to have a reputation to level wind for one. Second, if you look at it, you will see that the spool width is narrower or about the same as the height of the spool and that makes a good bet it will load well.

-If you are using the mounting holes of the cleat, that means moving the reel further forward.

yes it will be about right and I'll be able to walk around the deck.

-With no bow cleat, how are you going to atatch snubbers? How about bow lines when you tie up to a dock?

The new cleats will be out on the gunnels on both sides.

-Will the worm gear run equally well in forward and reverse (Many do)?
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Yes, I called the factory today and they said it works well either way. They don't place a + or - on the controls, not knowing which way the winch will turn. My opinion is that feeding the rode out the bottom creates less tripping and feeds in a straiter line which will help for a nice deployment. A small pad may be nice to protect the deck from scrapes from the chain.

See how Mark Wharton handled his challenges in the photo up to.
 
alainP":21td46ln said:
-Just a question: Why did you walk away from the usual Lewmar 700?
Did You already owned the drum winch?
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The lewmar has a great reputation. Originally I figured I'd have to buy one and keep feeding that filthy line down into my bedroom. There are other shortcomings but they are overall nice for summer beach boats.

I hope to fish in deep water and the Drum winch holds a lot of line. There is no free spooling and no cleating off off the line. Where you stop is where the spool stays. In most cases there is no need to go forward to anchor.

Whether it is chain or line they can be joined with clevis's or can be spliced. The clevis will feed just fine. I splice and that will be what I do the most.

Having done some logging and lots of tree work a winch makes sense to me. you can see everything on deck...no secrets. And this model is the most dependable.
 
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