The 22’ Cruiser I purchased earlier this year did not have the opening cut out in the deck for the anchor rode to fall into the anchor locker. I do not want to cut it out, I don’t like the idea of smelly bay mud in the berthing area. I am considering purchasing a Electric Anchor winch. All the rode goes on the spool of the winch. The winch I am considering is a “Trac Big Water 45 Saltwater Series Electric Anchor Winch” West Marine Model # 12869665 Manuf # T10103. It is rated for a boat up to 24’. A man in my marina has used a similar one on his 22’ Chris Craft for years with no problems. I plan on mounting it behind the cleat on the bow and use the existing rode guide. I do not know if a backing plate is included if not I plan on using a plate on the inside to spread out the load. My questions are, is this area strong enough to support the load, what material would be best for the backing plate, and what is the appropriate anchor size for my 22’ Cruiser. Another concern I have is I don’t see how any chain can be used because it cannot be wound onto the spool. Is this because 3/16 anchor rope is used? The man I mentioned does not have any chain on his rode and he says I don’t need it. Does anyone have any experience with this type of anchor winch? George
Anchor Winch
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In my pre C-Dory days I had a 23 Parker pilothouse, I installed an EZ Puller anchor winch. I was very pleased with it, Plenty of power, held 100's of feet of line, and chain too. Never had a bit of a problem with it. All the mud and debris on the rode stayed on the outside of the boat.
You can order them with different size drums depending on how much line you want to carry.
It was a bit heavier than the typical windlass, but that should not be an issue with a C-Dory as most are a bit too heavy in the stern, and could use a some more weight in the bow.
You can order them with different size drums depending on how much line you want to carry.
It was a bit heavier than the typical windlass, but that should not be an issue with a C-Dory as most are a bit too heavy in the stern, and could use a some more weight in the bow.
I think you might end up disappointed with the winch you noted. You really do need chain if you intend to anchor for real. You will also need more rode unless you intend to only anchor shallow while fully awake. A rode locker, especially if sealed off from the cabin is not much to deal with and combined with a good windlass is pretty nice.
I cannot speak for what might work for you but up here in the PNW most people use 1/2" line, usually 3 strand, and 1/4" high test chain. Most have from 200-300' of line and 15-50' of chain. With no chain and only 100' of 3/8' line you will not have a very secure anchorage at all. You will be limited to anchoring in 15' or less of water in little or no wind and I would not be comfortable sleeping with only that holding my boat in place. If you only intend to anchor for lunch in very shallow water 100' and no chain might work. If that is all you intend then why not just buy one of those plastic latticed milk carton boxes you see in stores and lay the anchor rode (line plus anchor) in it. Pulling that line by hand should be very easy. Be sure that the non-anchor end of the line (bitter end) is secured to the forward cleat. I remember seeing one fellow blithely put his anchor out and then watch as the other end of line went over the side!
starcrafttom
Active member
equip, I see you live in concord. So you are in the delta or the lakes a lot. A area I used to live in and boat in. You might get away with a hundred ft in most areas around there and if that's your plan you are good to go.
But if you want to anchor any where over 15 ft deep or in a high current ( not river current ) then you really need to get 20 ft of chain. You see anchoring in a river current is easy because the direction of the current does not change. Once you set the anchor the current helps hold you in place. Now areas with tide and current will get the old anchor dragging. the boat will swing around as the tide changes and rises and unless you have a lot of rode or some chain to keep the hook at the right angle the anchor will drag out of the set.
I used to anchor on the Sac and in a lot of the lake's with just rope all the time. When I moved to Washington I was told to get chain. So I got 6 feet of chain for my 22. I spent the summer dragging anchor, mostly at night in the wind, not fun at all. I went to 20 ft of chain in the 22 and now have 100ft on my 27. I sleep great at night.
But if you want to anchor any where over 15 ft deep or in a high current ( not river current ) then you really need to get 20 ft of chain. You see anchoring in a river current is easy because the direction of the current does not change. Once you set the anchor the current helps hold you in place. Now areas with tide and current will get the old anchor dragging. the boat will swing around as the tide changes and rises and unless you have a lot of rode or some chain to keep the hook at the right angle the anchor will drag out of the set.
I used to anchor on the Sac and in a lot of the lake's with just rope all the time. When I moved to Washington I was told to get chain. So I got 6 feet of chain for my 22. I spent the summer dragging anchor, mostly at night in the wind, not fun at all. I went to 20 ft of chain in the 22 and now have 100ft on my 27. I sleep great at night.
Looking at the product in the West Marine catalogue and on line--it has 100 feet of 3/16 braid--not sure what the SWL of that specific braid is but, here are the specs of one braid: safe Working Load.....63 LBS. Breaking Strength......580 LBS. If you had to pull the anchor by hand, the 3/16 line will tear up your hands (might be OK with thick leather gloves...).
Even in the Delta--and I have only sent about 6 months total cruising there--but that equates to over 180 nights at anchor--There are places where you do anchor in more than 10 feet of water: Scope 7:1 is reasonable. 10 feet of water 4 feet of freeboard of the boat--(OK maybe 3 feet)--still 14 x 7= 98. That means that the maximum depth you can anchor in is 10 feet. As noted most of us have at least 200 feet on the bow anchor--I personally just put in 200 feet of 1/2" 3 strand, and 25 feet of 1/4 HT chain. But I also carry 3 other anchor rodes each 200 feet of 3/8" so I have 800 feet if absolutely necessary and that allows me to anchor in 100 feet when that occasion occurs.
The milk crate on the deck works fine, if you wish for the anchor rode--and I have used this for many of my racing sailboats (but not cruising boats).
I would not use that winch/windlass.
Even in the Delta--and I have only sent about 6 months total cruising there--but that equates to over 180 nights at anchor--There are places where you do anchor in more than 10 feet of water: Scope 7:1 is reasonable. 10 feet of water 4 feet of freeboard of the boat--(OK maybe 3 feet)--still 14 x 7= 98. That means that the maximum depth you can anchor in is 10 feet. As noted most of us have at least 200 feet on the bow anchor--I personally just put in 200 feet of 1/2" 3 strand, and 25 feet of 1/4 HT chain. But I also carry 3 other anchor rodes each 200 feet of 3/8" so I have 800 feet if absolutely necessary and that allows me to anchor in 100 feet when that occasion occurs.
The milk crate on the deck works fine, if you wish for the anchor rode--and I have used this for many of my racing sailboats (but not cruising boats).
I would not use that winch/windlass.
Thank you for the input. I now feel silly for considering the West Marine winch. You all are right I need 200 to 300 feet of ½ line and at least 15 ft of ¼ chain. I do presently use the milk crate method and its difficult when I am by myself. I went to the Strictly Sail Pacific boat show in Oakland today looking electric drum winches and I did find one from Stress Free Marine they have models that can handle the correct amount of road. http://stressfreemarine.com.au/ng-series-mini-ew.html
I want to mount it behind the cleat of the bow. What do you all think?
I want to mount it behind the cleat of the bow. What do you all think?
colobear":21b4aq4d said:
I think that is why it is called the "Bitter End" :twisted:
I don't know how much tide you are working with down there, but anchoring in 10 feet of water in many places could find you firmly planted on tera wet firma come low tide. For overnight, I think I would like 15 as a minimum.
As to Size of anchor. I kind of like one size larger than the mfg recommends for the 22-25 foot boats.
Harvey
SleepyC:moon
Don and Brenda
New member
I bet it was a pretty wet boat show today, it has been pouring all day here. I plan to attend on Saturday to look at the Ranger tug vs Cutwater, Andrew from the factory will be meeting me there.
journey on
New member
The first time I tried to anchor was over at Santa Cruz Isle, off Santa Barbara. I didn't bother to have chain. I found out that you cannot anchor without chain. I never forgot that lesson. The anchor would not set. Someone finally dove down and buried it for me. Learn by embarrassment.
I use ~50' of 1/4 chain on Journey On, which is 2' per ft. of boat length. You can never have too much chain. I also feel that the Danforth anchor is the best for all around use. I've tried Danforth, the Fortress, CQR, Bruce, Manson. The smaller fortress is too light to bury, especially in kelp, the CQR is a plow and the Manson is too thin for mud. The Danforth is the best compromise.
For more discussion on windlasses, see Lewmar 700 Gospel and Lewmar 700 windlass Installation. I would install a decent horizontal windlass at this point in my life. Among others, both Lewmar and Maxwell make decent small horizontal windlasses, with combination chain rope gypsys (gypsies?)Other opinions may vary.
Boris
I use ~50' of 1/4 chain on Journey On, which is 2' per ft. of boat length. You can never have too much chain. I also feel that the Danforth anchor is the best for all around use. I've tried Danforth, the Fortress, CQR, Bruce, Manson. The smaller fortress is too light to bury, especially in kelp, the CQR is a plow and the Manson is too thin for mud. The Danforth is the best compromise.
For more discussion on windlasses, see Lewmar 700 Gospel and Lewmar 700 windlass Installation. I would install a decent horizontal windlass at this point in my life. Among others, both Lewmar and Maxwell make decent small horizontal windlasses, with combination chain rope gypsys (gypsies?)Other opinions may vary.
Boris
Yep--a number of us have cut the hole in the deck. Just be sure and line it with epoxy. A good hole saw and 5 minutes it is done. I have done 4.
The on deck winch/windlass you mentioned (Stress free) is far better than the original smaller one. My concern might be corrosion/rust on the motor casing. Also the amount of deck space it takes up--since the foredeck of the C Dory 22 is small.
As for choice of anchor--the Hi Test Danforth is an excellent anchor--and what I used exclusively in S. Calif. But when I went world cruising, I switched to the CQR--now it is the Delta, or Manson Supreme. The anchor depends on where you are,and what the bottom type is. I currently carry a couple of Fortress, and the Delta on the C Dory 22.
The on deck winch/windlass you mentioned (Stress free) is far better than the original smaller one. My concern might be corrosion/rust on the motor casing. Also the amount of deck space it takes up--since the foredeck of the C Dory 22 is small.
As for choice of anchor--the Hi Test Danforth is an excellent anchor--and what I used exclusively in S. Calif. But when I went world cruising, I switched to the CQR--now it is the Delta, or Manson Supreme. The anchor depends on where you are,and what the bottom type is. I currently carry a couple of Fortress, and the Delta on the C Dory 22.
The EZ windlass will handle 1/2" rode and also chain, and spool it onto a drum above deck with no need to utilize the anchor locker. Also, it's self-cleating, meaning you can avoid going forward to the bow, since it's a worm-drive drum which is self-braking.
The downsides of the EZ is that it's slightly work-boat looking, and more importantly, is quite expensive, probably over $2K installed unless you can locate a used one.
The downsides of the EZ is that it's slightly work-boat looking, and more importantly, is quite expensive, probably over $2K installed unless you can locate a used one.
Update to EZ:
Several THT members are reporting that EZ has not been able to be contacted by phone or email for weeks.
The company apparently changed hands last Fall, and new owners appear to
be running it into the ground...
Too bad, since it was a beautiful product...maybe just a temporary setback, perhaps?
Several THT members are reporting that EZ has not been able to be contacted by phone or email for weeks.
The company apparently changed hands last Fall, and new owners appear to
be running it into the ground...
Too bad, since it was a beautiful product...maybe just a temporary setback, perhaps?