Anchor handling on a 22
- Thread starter tparrent
- Start date
Roger: I follow what many of you are saying, and agree with you that while the method I use may be fine in calm conditions, if it gets real rough, there is a lot of pressure on the bow roller, and it would be best to tie the rode to the anchor side of the roller at the bow cleat. This would prevent damage to the bow roller. On large boats it makes sense to consistently tie off the anchor rode in the same manner. If I still had my CD 16, I would continue to deploy the anchor like I always have, but would have taken everyone's advice on taking the extra precaution of tying the rode to the anchor side of the roller on the bow cleat when conditions are rough in order to prevent damaging the roller.
Bob: On falling overboard: when you weigh 250 pounds the CD16 really lists to the side you are walking, and if you don't have both hands on the rail, it is easy to slip. Was I careless? -- yes, and it probably will not happen again, but I do wear a life preserver when alone and make sure there are always two hands on the rail. As for 55 MPH winds on the water -- that's something I will intend to avoid at all costs. Also as a note, one of the best safety devices for a boat is that swim ladder. It is very hard to get back into a high-freeboard boat like the CD-16 without it, and it could make the difference between life and death. On experience: I certainly don't have your level of experience, and have enjoyed you common sense responses and recommendations over the years.
Roger: I was reading up on using power to set and free an anchor. It all depends upon the size of the boat, and precisely how much power one employs. If someone were foolish, they could cause injury or death, but in the hands of an experienced sailor, I can see where using power wisely is not a safety issue. I can see that when moving up to a larger boat (Marinaut 215), I'll have to radically change many of my methods.
Bob: As for throwing the anchor overboard, I do toss it about two or three feet, and have not had any problems with fouling. It prevents the anchor from getting entangled on the secondary line. On those rare occasions when I did deploy the anchor from the bow, I just let it gently slip into the water. I've been using this set-up for four years, and have not experienced any problems.
Thanks everyone,
Rich
Bob: On falling overboard: when you weigh 250 pounds the CD16 really lists to the side you are walking, and if you don't have both hands on the rail, it is easy to slip. Was I careless? -- yes, and it probably will not happen again, but I do wear a life preserver when alone and make sure there are always two hands on the rail. As for 55 MPH winds on the water -- that's something I will intend to avoid at all costs. Also as a note, one of the best safety devices for a boat is that swim ladder. It is very hard to get back into a high-freeboard boat like the CD-16 without it, and it could make the difference between life and death. On experience: I certainly don't have your level of experience, and have enjoyed you common sense responses and recommendations over the years.
Roger: I was reading up on using power to set and free an anchor. It all depends upon the size of the boat, and precisely how much power one employs. If someone were foolish, they could cause injury or death, but in the hands of an experienced sailor, I can see where using power wisely is not a safety issue. I can see that when moving up to a larger boat (Marinaut 215), I'll have to radically change many of my methods.
Bob: As for throwing the anchor overboard, I do toss it about two or three feet, and have not had any problems with fouling. It prevents the anchor from getting entangled on the secondary line. On those rare occasions when I did deploy the anchor from the bow, I just let it gently slip into the water. I've been using this set-up for four years, and have not experienced any problems.
Thanks everyone,
Rich
I'm with you roger, easier and more organized to do it yourself. And on the subject of the toughness of the bow roller, to make last weekend just perfect I anchored in a cove on the lake and promptly hung the anchor up in 40' of water on a root wad. I put serious pressure on the anchor, from a couple directions, and once I thought part of the roots broke, but still no love. So on the final attempt, in reverse, I pulled hard enough that it popped the engine skegs out of the water. And that cheap anchor roller that seems to be made out of skinny material and sticks out about 10 inches didn't even bend. Those things are really tough.
I have to disagree; the anchor roller is capable of handling brutal weather if you tie off on the bow cleat. Even in severe blows the line only drops over the roller so there is little stress, the stress transfers to the bow cleat. Not sure where everyone gets the idea you have to bypass the anchor roller and cheat off, that’s just nonsense.
C-dory’s are little boats, not much stress just way over engineered in most aspects of their marine attributes....this is a good thing!
From a different prospective, I have anchored a 66 feet MFV in 75 knot winds of Kodiak Island using only the anchor winch dogs, no cleat.
C-dory’s are little boats, not much stress just way over engineered in most aspects of their marine attributes....this is a good thing!
From a different prospective, I have anchored a 66 feet MFV in 75 knot winds of Kodiak Island using only the anchor winch dogs, no cleat.
Hello Lloyds, Jay Et. Al.:
My sense is that I agree with you. There never appeared to be that much stress on my bow roller -- even when a large boat wake hit the bow. The reason why my opinion can be swayed, is that I'm less experienced than the others. Like anything in life, it is always good to listen to the majority, but the majority is not always correct. As I stated earlier, my wife and I are buying a boat your size, so I think we have to do research off this site to see what's best.
I do know one thing: how can anyone argue that the method I employed on the CD 16 was not safe? Even if the bow roller were to tear off, the anchor rode would be held at the bow by the bow railing. How can anyone argue that it is safer on a 16 foot boat to walk along the gunnel in rough weather to deploy an anchor at the bow when it is so simple and safe to deploy it from the stern (as long as the end result is being anchored off of the bow?) How difficult is it to understand the precarious nature and danger of standing on a small bow with an 18" bow railing to retrieve an anchor. What may be safer for a large boat is a different matter for a smaller boat -- even the point of using power to set an anchor or retrieve it; I just don't like that idea in a small boat and will stick to my guns on that one. Also, with a 7 pound grapnel, it is so easy to set an anchor by hand as long as you have sufficient rode. So what if I toss it from the stern? I've never fouled the anchor. Here again: one would not want to "toss" a 25 pound anchor. Everything is relative.
And as for making mistakes -- everyone makes mistakes, and even those people who are experienced -- I guarantee it -- they will make more mistakes in boating, unless they're spending their leisure time at home. Hopefully, we all learn from our experiences.
I believe in safety. Accidents happen to those whom exercise caution, and it is always best to err on the side of caution, because on the water, things can happen so quickly. I want to thank you personally for making me realize that I should not be so easily swayed.
Rich
My sense is that I agree with you. There never appeared to be that much stress on my bow roller -- even when a large boat wake hit the bow. The reason why my opinion can be swayed, is that I'm less experienced than the others. Like anything in life, it is always good to listen to the majority, but the majority is not always correct. As I stated earlier, my wife and I are buying a boat your size, so I think we have to do research off this site to see what's best.
I do know one thing: how can anyone argue that the method I employed on the CD 16 was not safe? Even if the bow roller were to tear off, the anchor rode would be held at the bow by the bow railing. How can anyone argue that it is safer on a 16 foot boat to walk along the gunnel in rough weather to deploy an anchor at the bow when it is so simple and safe to deploy it from the stern (as long as the end result is being anchored off of the bow?) How difficult is it to understand the precarious nature and danger of standing on a small bow with an 18" bow railing to retrieve an anchor. What may be safer for a large boat is a different matter for a smaller boat -- even the point of using power to set an anchor or retrieve it; I just don't like that idea in a small boat and will stick to my guns on that one. Also, with a 7 pound grapnel, it is so easy to set an anchor by hand as long as you have sufficient rode. So what if I toss it from the stern? I've never fouled the anchor. Here again: one would not want to "toss" a 25 pound anchor. Everything is relative.
And as for making mistakes -- everyone makes mistakes, and even those people who are experienced -- I guarantee it -- they will make more mistakes in boating, unless they're spending their leisure time at home. Hopefully, we all learn from our experiences.
I believe in safety. Accidents happen to those whom exercise caution, and it is always best to err on the side of caution, because on the water, things can happen so quickly. I want to thank you personally for making me realize that I should not be so easily swayed.
Rich
Hi Folks,
One day I anchored my 22' Classic Angler and when I went to raise it, both the wind (About 15 knots), and the tide (2 to 3 knots) were going in the same direction. After hand hauling the anchor, I decided that I would get a windless to lower and raise the anchor. Best decision I have ever made concerning anchors. Consider it.
One day I anchored my 22' Classic Angler and when I went to raise it, both the wind (About 15 knots), and the tide (2 to 3 knots) were going in the same direction. After hand hauling the anchor, I decided that I would get a windless to lower and raise the anchor. Best decision I have ever made concerning anchors. Consider it.
I just installed a Windline URM-1 anchor roller on Sea-Cruz. Very heavy, very solid and I used 3 3/8 inch bolts with a backing plate. I over drilled, filled, redrilled, and used both putty and 4200 sealant. I am sure I could hang the entire weight of the boat from this roller and if it did fail it would be the roller itself that would be the break point. It is a much stronger attachment point than the bow cleat. I guess I cannot think of any reason not to leave the anchor rode over the roller rather than just letting the weaker bow cleat take the strain and also seems there would be less chaffing compared to the rode over a moving deck. Am I missing something? I seldom anchor in Monterey bay and consider the anchor more a safety device than a cruising accessory. However, I do plan on heading further afield at some future time and want to be sure I am not missing something.
Ron
Ron
Yellowstone
New member
Comment on cleats and strength of them on a C-Dory. Back in the 1990s I went to the factory to get a different trailer installed. Was told to back the rig into the shop. They lowered three cables from a ceiling hoist, hooked into the bow and aft cleats and lifted my pride and joy four feet off the cement floor. I then drove away the old trailer and returned to watch the installation of the boat on the new trailer.
Have to admit I was nervous about the whole thing and commented about the strength of the cleats (estimated over 1,000 lbs supported by each cleat) the shop people just laughed saying they could support my boat from one cleat, that they were that strong.
Now when you consider the bow cleat is resisting a horizontal pull, not a vertical pull, your rode would probably break before any damage was done to the cleat and its seating. Some mechanical engineer can probably figure out the forces involved. I've anchored in some pretty stiff blows with the line over the roller (I use the Bruce roller) and believe there is little to be worried about.
John
Have to admit I was nervous about the whole thing and commented about the strength of the cleats (estimated over 1,000 lbs supported by each cleat) the shop people just laughed saying they could support my boat from one cleat, that they were that strong.
Now when you consider the bow cleat is resisting a horizontal pull, not a vertical pull, your rode would probably break before any damage was done to the cleat and its seating. Some mechanical engineer can probably figure out the forces involved. I've anchored in some pretty stiff blows with the line over the roller (I use the Bruce roller) and believe there is little to be worried about.
John
As far as the "I told you so," comment from Tom... he and I first had this C-Dory discussion over 5 years ago, so I believe that is way beyond the "I told you so" statute of limitations. A year ago, we talked about a 22... and a 16 followed him home. I may "tell him so," but the odds are pretty good he won't listen to me and will have to come to his own conclusions on his own time frame.
I'm just tickled that he has come to the conclusion that time is a precious commodity and has decided to go out there and see how one can live large in a small boat. If or when he comes to the conclusion that a boat with more elbow room, more storage, a real head and shower, and lots more amenities is the way to go, I will have only one thing to say to him (and it won't be "I told you so")... welcome to another option, my friend.
Oh, and: you go, boy!
Best wishes,
Jim
I'm just tickled that he has come to the conclusion that time is a precious commodity and has decided to go out there and see how one can live large in a small boat. If or when he comes to the conclusion that a boat with more elbow room, more storage, a real head and shower, and lots more amenities is the way to go, I will have only one thing to say to him (and it won't be "I told you so")... welcome to another option, my friend.
Oh, and: you go, boy!
Best wishes,
Jim