A Binoculars Buying Guide: What Do You Need and What Should You Pay?
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A Binoculars Buying Guide: What Do You Need and What Should
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Wandering Sagebrush
Free Range Human
Being a birdaholic, I like good optics. For years I used a set of good quality pocket binoculars. When they dropped and broke, I invested in a set of Swarovski 7x42s. It was like a fog had lifted. There is no substitute for good optics.
I don't advocate the higher power binocs. The 7 and 8 power glass is lighter, has little shake, and gives a wider field of view. Get the largest objective lenses as is practical, they let in more light. With lower powers, you don't need stabilization.
I don't advocate the higher power binocs. The 7 and 8 power glass is lighter, has little shake, and gives a wider field of view. Get the largest objective lenses as is practical, they let in more light. With lower powers, you don't need stabilization.
Wandering Sagebrush":tgmnkbnk said:
Agreed...all the stabilization in the world doesn't make up for inferior glass.
I picked up a set of Leica 8x42's many years back - love 'em for all the reasons you mentioned. Were I introduced to them via online reviews, there's no way I'd have justified spending that kind of coin on them. Rather, I was handed a pair to look through, and saw the light...pun intended.
Good optics really can't be described - they have to be experienced. After which, there's a good chance you'll get over the price.
I bought a pair of Tasco 7x50 with built in compass. Mistake! Optics are not good; sent them to Tasco with complaint, got reply that they are within specs. Must adjust each eyepiece separately, a pain, and have found that the compass is less useful than I had expected. All in all binoculars are one of those things where spending more really returns more. (But I have heard good things about Barska glasses.)
beermanPDX
New member
I have the Nikon OceanPro 7x50s with the built-in compass. I really like them as does everyone who has used them on my boat. Excellent optics for the price. The thing that sold me on getting these is Nikon's No-Fault repair/replacement policy on binocs / scopes. If I break them, Nikon will repair or replace them for $10.
As far as the built-in compass goes, I have no clue as to it's usability for navigating. But it certainly makes it easier to hand the binocs over to a buddy and say "check out the sweet hull on that beauty bearing 200 degrees". It's good for checking out other boats too.
As far as the built-in compass goes, I have no clue as to it's usability for navigating. But it certainly makes it easier to hand the binocs over to a buddy and say "check out the sweet hull on that beauty bearing 200 degrees". It's good for checking out other boats too.
Dreamer":19o8x7fm said:
Roger-
You mean these?
I also have the Cannon 8x25's, 10x30's, and 12x36's that are Image Stabilized and about a half dozen more non-stabilized binoculars, including Leica's, and have bought and sold about 25 pair in the last three years.
Hard to beat the Image Stabilized Binoculars, particularly on a boat!
For birding, a light pair of Leicas would be my choice, 8 or 10 by 42, or so.
Heavy binoculars get left on the shelf if you're going on foot, so light weight is everything. The Cannon 10x 30's are my hiking binos.
How good are your binoculars? You should be able to easily see the Moons of Jupiter, which is bright in the night sky now. (Measure of definition of detail.) Also important: a lot more, especially evident in colors and poor lighting conditions on terrestrial views. (Contrast, color, etc.)
Complex subject, and difficult to discuss and evaluate without looking through all the glasses at the same time for comparison. Even more problematic if your vision is limited in any way.
You're right: really good binoculars are wonderful, but so is the price!
Joe. :teeth :thup
starcrafttom
Active member
I have a set of Cali-optics 8x30 with instant focus. I really love these. Bright and light and I dont have to refocus everytime I look from far way to something closer. I bought them at the airshow for $100 and they came with a bonus set that folds up. Little ones that are great for the car or around the house. both pairs are far better then my west marine bught ones.
For the skipper (and admiral) #1 are the 14 x 40 Fujinon Techno-Stabi for long vision in the moving boat where you need to ID a marker. You cannot do that with any non stabilized glass. I have a 30 + year old set of Fujinon 7 x50's with Compass--rarely used now--but used to used them for navigation and night glasses. Also A pair of the 8 x 30 Stiener. The latter two are individual focus eye pieces--there is a reason--to keep the seal tight.
Some of us (such as Steve and several others) have some very nice and expensive camera lens--and there you can really sea the difference between cheap and expensive lenses. A $100 and a $2500 lens can do about the same maginfication--but there are many other factors involved.
For the kids, and guests--some nice cheap, center focus West Marine glasses--seem to work well. If really want to show something I'll st up a tripod and put on a 500 MM Lens or a 20X quality spotting scope.
I don't want my good glass dropped or damaged.
Some of us (such as Steve and several others) have some very nice and expensive camera lens--and there you can really sea the difference between cheap and expensive lenses. A $100 and a $2500 lens can do about the same maginfication--but there are many other factors involved.
For the kids, and guests--some nice cheap, center focus West Marine glasses--seem to work well. If really want to show something I'll st up a tripod and put on a 500 MM Lens or a 20X quality spotting scope.
I don't want my good glass dropped or damaged.
thataway":2lum6tp4 said:
A military version of the 14 x 40 Techno-Stabi binoculars is used by our troops in the Middle East to tell the Good Guys from the Bad Guys as they rumble down the roads and approach bystanders that could be hostile IED trigger men, snipers, or whatever. I have read that our troops are happy to have such good optics when operating under difficult conditions.
I've also read where Tuna and other Big Game Fishermen use them to spot Sea Gulls over baitfish and gamefish at great distances. Searching with radar, gull flocks are said to be detectable at up to six miles, with the binoculars coming into use as the boat gets closer.
After you've used a pair of these, nothing else comes close for observing close detail at great distances while on a moving platform yourself!
Joe. :teeth :thup
Sky and Telescope had an extensive article nearly 30 years ago regarding binocular selection. It went on to state that for older people, purchase of binoculars with an aperature greater then 35 milimeters is a waste of money. The reason: while the human iris can open to accommodate a theoretical 8 mm exit pupil, that ability greatly reduces with age. Essentially, when we are past 30 year's old, we are wasting our money on large binoculars, not to mention the fact that this equipement is much heavier and more difficult to hold steady. The article went on to state that people's interests would best be served with 7 x 35 mm binoculars. I don't completely agree with them, because there are other advantages to having binoculars with a greater exit pupil such as viewing comfort. It is for that reason I agree with those that 8 by 42 binoculars are a good compromise, which is why I have a pair. It might not seem like much of a weight difference, but it is significant.
My Bushnell Trophy 8 x 42 binoculars weigh 1 pound 12 ounces, and my Pentax 7 x 50 binoculars weigh 2 pounds 2 ounces. The 7 x 42 is considerably less bulky at nearly half the physical size of the 7 x 50. So as one might guess, the 8 x 42 gets used all the time and the 7 x 50 collects dust.
Also, those who speak of the value of image stabilization I think are spot on, since it is hard to keep steady with handheld binoculars on open water without it.
Rich
My Bushnell Trophy 8 x 42 binoculars weigh 1 pound 12 ounces, and my Pentax 7 x 50 binoculars weigh 2 pounds 2 ounces. The 7 x 42 is considerably less bulky at nearly half the physical size of the 7 x 50. So as one might guess, the 8 x 42 gets used all the time and the 7 x 50 collects dust.
Also, those who speak of the value of image stabilization I think are spot on, since it is hard to keep steady with handheld binoculars on open water without it.
Rich
Speaking of stabilized binoculars: we have a Canon 10x30 IS (Image Stabilized). It has been our go-to binoculars on the boat, but this past year, the IS quit working and the rubber/plastic on the exterior turned to goo. Attempts to contact Canon to see about any possible repair... no response from Canon. Liked the binoculars, I would be hard-pressed to buy another due to their indifference.
When you're looking for a buoy and the boat is a-rockin', the IS is nice. We're currently using old school Tasco Offshore 7x50s that we've had for years... and they just keep on working.
When you're looking for a buoy and the boat is a-rockin', the IS is nice. We're currently using old school Tasco Offshore 7x50s that we've had for years... and they just keep on working.
JamesTXSD":ztmymnfk said:
Jim-
Only problem with my Cannon IS's (3 pair, see above) has been one plastic cover that showed some wear on the printed on logo, and an outfit in Sacramento provided the part for about $17.
I like the Tasco 7x50's for the value/price. Recommended buying them to the members here a few years ago when they were on sale for about $80. Have nice lighted compass to get headings. Very rugged. Basically a copy of the Steiner Commanders.
BTW: Would be hard to leave a $500-$1500 pair of binoculars in a boat moored in a marina!
Another thought: With IS, you usually have "batteries required". Nice to have a pair that runs on regular AA cells instead of some hard-to-find photocell, especially when cruising.
Lastly, if "When you're looking for a buoy and the boat is a-rockin'" is a problem, tell the couple down below to back off for awhile, or give up the multi-tasking, and remember you're supposed to be relaxing, not still back in the Rat Race like before you retired!
Joe. :teeth :thup
Yellowstone
New member
Besides boating, another long term hobby (over 60 years) has been using and collecting optics, primarily monoculars, binoculars, and spotting scopes. I have used all the so-called alpha brands (Zeiss, Leica, Swarovski, and special Nikons) and virtually all the lesser brands primarily for terrestrial use. I also repair binoculars (mostly porros) for friends and those in need since I don't charge for my services.
Experience can be a dear teacher as I have found out to my regret. At one time I thought I had to have the best, viz., most expensive and latest models available. One spotting scope, a Zeiss 20 power image stabilizing scope, caught my fancy. It was a wonderful instrument, but Zeiss's 5 year warranty was a message. One drop on a hard surface put it out of commission, and the repair cost was exhorbitant. It orignally cost $2,400.
Like Jim, I have had bad luck with Canon's IS binoculars. When you need them, the batteries are dead or something else is wrong. So I have formed the following opinion. Any binocular I use boating now has to be basically handy, reliable, simple, rugged, waterproof, center focus, rubber covered, allows full FOV with eye glasses on, and not more than 7 power.
I currently use (2) models: a Leupold 6x30 Yosemiti (poro) and a Zeiss
7x42 ( roof) old style Dyalite with P coating. The first is an el cheapo binocular made in China costing less than 80 bucks. The second is a Zeiss alpha replaced by the costly Fl series (now going for two grand or more). The 7x42 Zeiss in good condition sells in the used binocular market for $600 to $800. It will easily last more than a century.
The 7x50s I once used are no longer aboard. Too heavy and bulky with hardly any real advantage over what I use now. I gave up on IF binoculars because (1) there is always some seabird close to the boat that requires fiddling with the individual focus eyepiece and (2) CF waterproof binoculars are now readily available and inexpensive with all the features mentioned above.
Now for some dirty little secrets. Regardless what any salespersons claims, the real gains in binoculars in the last half century are in the lens coatings, rubber covering, waterproofing, and adjustable eye cups. These today can all can be had from the cheapest to most expensive models.
When you walk out of the optics store with the lastest wizz bang model such as a Swarovski (also called Divorski by salesmen), your binocular has now depreciated 50%.
Unless abused, a quality binocular, including the earlier Bushnell custom line, has a great life expectancy. Ebay often has really good binoculars selling for a fraction of new models. By the way in my collection of over 75 binoculars, some of them far too expensive to risk using on a boat, I'm completely satisfied with the Leupold and Zeiss binoculars.
John
Experience can be a dear teacher as I have found out to my regret. At one time I thought I had to have the best, viz., most expensive and latest models available. One spotting scope, a Zeiss 20 power image stabilizing scope, caught my fancy. It was a wonderful instrument, but Zeiss's 5 year warranty was a message. One drop on a hard surface put it out of commission, and the repair cost was exhorbitant. It orignally cost $2,400.
Like Jim, I have had bad luck with Canon's IS binoculars. When you need them, the batteries are dead or something else is wrong. So I have formed the following opinion. Any binocular I use boating now has to be basically handy, reliable, simple, rugged, waterproof, center focus, rubber covered, allows full FOV with eye glasses on, and not more than 7 power.
I currently use (2) models: a Leupold 6x30 Yosemiti (poro) and a Zeiss
7x42 ( roof) old style Dyalite with P coating. The first is an el cheapo binocular made in China costing less than 80 bucks. The second is a Zeiss alpha replaced by the costly Fl series (now going for two grand or more). The 7x42 Zeiss in good condition sells in the used binocular market for $600 to $800. It will easily last more than a century.
The 7x50s I once used are no longer aboard. Too heavy and bulky with hardly any real advantage over what I use now. I gave up on IF binoculars because (1) there is always some seabird close to the boat that requires fiddling with the individual focus eyepiece and (2) CF waterproof binoculars are now readily available and inexpensive with all the features mentioned above.
Now for some dirty little secrets. Regardless what any salespersons claims, the real gains in binoculars in the last half century are in the lens coatings, rubber covering, waterproofing, and adjustable eye cups. These today can all can be had from the cheapest to most expensive models.
When you walk out of the optics store with the lastest wizz bang model such as a Swarovski (also called Divorski by salesmen), your binocular has now depreciated 50%.
Unless abused, a quality binocular, including the earlier Bushnell custom line, has a great life expectancy. Ebay often has really good binoculars selling for a fraction of new models. By the way in my collection of over 75 binoculars, some of them far too expensive to risk using on a boat, I'm completely satisfied with the Leupold and Zeiss binoculars.
John
The power of the internet: this thread reminded me that I should try to contact Canon again. After posting that I have made SIX previous attempts to get an address and procedure for sending the binoculars in for repair, with no response... oh, on a Canon sponsored forum, I got an immediate e-mail from Rodney at Canon Customer Service. Standard apology, mostly form letter (with some particulars inserted)... but, I got the address and procedure.
It will be interesting to see what Canon suggests a repair will run on those binoculars. Assuming they can fix the image stabilization, I would like to see what they can do for the plastic/rubber exterior that has turned sticky. They are just gross to hold right now. :disgust
We'll see how this goes.
It will be interesting to see what Canon suggests a repair will run on those binoculars. Assuming they can fix the image stabilization, I would like to see what they can do for the plastic/rubber exterior that has turned sticky. They are just gross to hold right now. :disgust
We'll see how this goes.