One issue with the 25's can be the fuel tank, There can be pitting and potential leaks. The inner surface of the hull below the fuel tank, can be danaged by ethanol in the fuel. The ethanol can desolve Gel Coat. I prefer the 25's from 2006 on. Two fuel fills, easier to take the tank out and replace. Also look for water coming around the sides or under the aft cabin bulkhead. There were 5 or 6, 25's built in the 1995 era. My son owns one of those--the cabin and head layout is different.
I would tend to avoid the aft holding tank, which are the 2002 to early 2005, unless they have been converted to a composting toilet. Our second (2007 model year) had the composting toilet and it was much better.
Check for moisture (moisture meter--see articles by David Pascoe--whose articles and books I stil suggest, even though there are more "modern". David Pascoe passed on a few years back. There are lots of U Tube videos on surveying--I suggest that any one contemplating buying a boat view and read about the process. Some surveyors are excellent---some are just not proficient. I like to see ABYC certifications, and NAMS society. There are some good SAMS surveyor, but I had a bad one when I bought my first Trawler. He even ended up being an officer of SAMS. It was a $30,000 lesson. I repaired the boat back to full standards. I also disclosed the damage and what I had done to remedy it. I have folllowed that boat, which did the "Loop" several years ago. Even though I called each broker, and revealed this information, and that was not passed on to the next owner! I had been surveying my sailboats for many years, and had a close friend in Calif. who was a naval archetict who I could consult if I had a question.
I probably should have bought a Tramex moisture meter 60 years ago. I have been using cheap meters such as "General" and "Ryobi" meters, and a phenolic hammer for all of these years. I like to sound out the entire hull of any boat I buy--including the interior bulkheads--by tapping the surface with the hammer. It is the relative difference which is important both with hammer and moisture meter. Bottom paint and nearby metal structures can give "false" readings on the moisture meters. You can use the plastic handle of a screw driver, if you don't own a phenolic hammer. I have several with hard rubber on one side and plastic head on the other side of the hammer. They come in multiple sizes.
Be sure and test all systems, including lights, trim tabs, electronics, radio etc and get an engine survey with at least compression, and inspection of the thermostat and nearby water passages. If possible pull the lower unit and check the pump /and drain a small amount of lower unit oil to look for milky conditions. Also check the engine oil if 4 stroke for moisure (milky color). Some folks reject boats with bottom paint. I feel that is fine, as long as there is not sign of blistering or osmosis.
I also put the outboard in trailering position and then put full weight on the lower unit, to see if the transom flexes. Look for "stress cracks". Around the engine mounting bolts look for cracking or deflection. The pan for the splash well is not part of the transom, it is formed in the top/deck mold. There may be a space between the spash well and the transom. The "cap" on the top of the transom is where the "hull to deck joint" is located, and if compromised with screws etc, can cause water intrusion into the transom.
Finally I check the electrical, not only for function but for good connections and wire runs. I use a digital volt and amp meter--inexpensive analogue meters can also be used. You want the resting voltage (no charging or discharging for a couple of hours) to be at 12.7volts, AGM at 12.8 volts and if any LiFeP04 at 13.3. Check for corrosion at all of the negative and positive terminals. Red for positive 12 volt circuits, and black or yellow for the negative terminals and bus bars. There should be a large circuit breaker or fuse within a few inches of the positve battery terminal. There will be a bus bar for distribution. The only wires which should come off the battery (and switched/fused) is the main house supply, or the main starting supply for each engine. The bilge pumps can run off the battery and some boats the Wallas stove will come off the starting battery. I put the Windlass and Wallas terminals on a small bus bar from the engine start battery. You should have the engine running when pulling the anchor--and I like to have the engine running when starting the stove. In more recent boats, I have used an inverter, separate battery bank for refrigerator/freezer, induction burner (burners) and a small microwave oven. No open flames on the boat except grill--which I prefer to use on the dock if possible. OK I do grill--but keep the barbecue away from the fuel tank vent. I have a Magna kettle type with charcoal/propane, or Magna rectangular grill with infrared, viewing ports and therometer which I have a rail mount or fold up legs for the dock or a folding table.
Good luck with the search; the more you educate yourself and family the safer and more pleasant your boating experience will be. Learn to do minor repairs, and diagnose problems, so they don't shut down a cruise.
