Wiper fuse keeps blowing

A

Alok

New member
My port side wiper fuse (5 amp) blows a few seconds after the switch is turned on. The wiper starts moving, goes through no more than one cycle, and fuse blows. The wiper is not binding- I have checked that already. The wiper brand is AFI.

This is the wiper "movement" fuse, not the wiper "parking" fuse.

Before I start dis-assembling everything, thought I would check to see if anyone has a simple answer :?
 
I had the same thing happen last year. the fuse is popping because the motor is working to hard and can’t move because ( I know bad English and sentence structure but have to make a point of cause and effect) the shaft of the wiper is corroded with rust in side or dirt. I pulled mine apart but was not able to save it, too much rust and corrosion . Throw it away and get another one.

p.s. I was able to move the shaft by hand but the motor could not.
 
You can always try a little lube and a slightly larger fuse to let it run long engough to make things work freely. If you need a new motor/unit anyway, you've got little to lose!

Charlie
 
Before our wiper motor quit completely, the fuse blew a few times. Just what my buddy Tom was saying... an indication that the motor was working too hard. And when you replace the motor, you can set the arc to cover more of the window (maybe it already does on the TomCat, but it sure didn't on our 25)... more is mo betta.

Best wishes,
Jim
 
I've had the same problem as Tom, with other boats. These shafts are not that well sealed, and if you get salt and grit into the shaft--they blow the fuse. Try cleaning first.
 
I had a starboard wiper motor replaced on warranty. It's blade was corroded on and the shaft needed to be sawed.

Which means sometime in the future I might need another wiper.

Does anyone have a brand other than these noisy clumbsy wiper motors that the factory installed? Are there some choices? Pretty bad to have wiper motors that are louder than the outboard!

Dave
 
Thank you all.

I will report back on my findings after I take the wiper assembly apart, just to complete the conversation.
 
I work as an Aircraft electrician/Avionics mechanic and would just say, never use a larger fuse than is already installed. The circuits are usually fused to protect the wiring. NOT the motor. You could overheat your wire and melt the insulation, possibly starting a fire. As for trouble shooting, you can put an amp meter on the positive lead of your good motor to determine the current draw and do the same on the other, then compare the draw before it blows. Also try swapping motors from one side to the other to see if the problem goes away/follows. That would eliminate wiring as the issue. Good Luck!
 
Learned a long time ago about two products that I wouldn't be without (on a boat, on a truck, etc.). The first was a tiny can of Never-Seez, I got it from a Snap-On truck dealer and the second was Sil-Glyde - silicone greast, sticky, heavy grease that is almost impossible to wash off or wear off a shaft. If you can tear the wiper motor down to get to the shaft, clean it, polish a little with nylon pad or crocus cloth and apply never-seez. Lightly apply sil-glyde to the innards. Maybe not a permanent fix but it will extend the life of such things.
 
Cker":xak6g35v said:
Learned a long time ago about two products that I wouldn't be without (on a boat, on a truck, etc.). The first was a tiny can of Never-Seez, I got it from a Snap-On truck dealer and the second was Sil-Glyde - silicone greast, sticky, heavy grease that is almost impossible to wash off or wear off a shaft. If you can tear the wiper motor down to get to the shaft, clean it, polish a little with nylon pad or crocus cloth and apply never-seez. Lightly apply sil-glyde to the innards. Maybe not a permanent fix but it will extend the life of such things.
Click to expand...

Sil-Glyde sounds like another brand of silicone grease, commonly also marketed as Super Lube, in cartridges for grease guns for $7 or so (I bought a tube for $5 eight years ago, and am still using the original cartridge.)

We used in in science labs as a high vacuum sealer for bell jars and the like. It has no vapor pressure, meaning it doesn't evaporate, therefore stays around forever, and doesn't, for the same reason, smell, either.

I used it on just about everything because it stays put and lubricates forever. Bolt and screw threads, marine hardware, prop threads, trailer balls, you name it.

It also can be used to coat your hands (lightly) before you paint, as the paint peals off when it dries, not bonding to your skin. It will also protect you from harsh detergents, etc.

Just be careful when substituting it for a petroleum based grease in bearings. I haven't used it in applications like trailer bearings, as I don't know if it's suitable as a substitute for heavily loaded bearings and high temperatures. It might be superior, but I'd have to call their technical rep. and ask first.

Try it, you'll like it!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
A follow-up:

I disassembled the wiper assembly. Did not see any corrosion, and the motor worked fine once I had taken everything apart. Cleaned it up, reassembled, re-installed. Looks like its working OK, at least for now. Perhaps something was binding because of misalignment.

A few tips for anyone who may have a similar assembly and may have to take the wiper apart. My wiper has a pantographic arm, with the wiper blade arm and an additional rod.

1. Flip open the plastic cap that covers the part of the wiper attached to the shaft. Underneath are TWO setscrews that hold the wiper on to the knurled knob at the end of the wiper shaft. These are an absolute pain to get to. Also, one of my small METRIC Allen wrenched seemed to fit the setscrews better than a standard Allen wrench.

Once I had the setscrews loosened, I sprayed PB Blaster (I prefer that to WD-40) at the shaft attachment and gave it a few minutes. I was then able to work the wiper off the shaft with a minimum of cussing.

2. The shaft length for my wiper assemply is 2 inches (the motors come with a variety of shaft lengths).

I suspect that the non-pantographic AFI arms have only a single setscrew- at least, that was true for the replacment I saw in West Marine.
 
Back
Top