Winter cruise Sea of Cortez Baja MX 2020

I first drove down with 2 other trucks in 1970, 10 days of bad dirt road to La Paz and have since driven down several times, my dad had a house in La Paz and then in San Jose Del Cabo, my retired parents drove back and forth every winter for years. I have never towed a boat down so that will be different, much slower, I have had some negative experiences with cops but nothing serious and has been far outweighed by the generous spirit of most of the great Mexican people. We sailed our big boat down in 2011 and spent most of every winter cruising between San Carlos and Puerto Vallarta, never a problem.

Bob, yes I am starting to think camping in campgrounds would be best even in the US if we stay at a motel I wake up worried every morning, thinking I should have pulled the prop. When camping we run a tube into a "grey water" container and have the solar power, we just can't fill up the boat with traveling stuff.
Anyway thousands of Nohth Americans make the trip every year, I have actually been more terrified when I have towed a trailer through the LA freeway craziness, believe me that is scary!
We have always crossed at Lukeville in Arizona with the Tug, small and out of the way without traffic but that is too far east for Baja.
 
The problem we saw was with the Police.
Click to expand...

I had friends and patients who lived in Mexico. The way of life is different there--that has to be understood. One of my friends who had dual citizenship and was born in Mexico, spent some time in a jail because of an "illegal" currency transfer. It cost him many thousands of dollars to "bribe" the right people--more than a new jeep would have cost then. It is not just tourists who are hit up.

Although I understand that bribes (soborno) in Mexico are illegal. "Mordida", which actually means "the bite" has been a way of life. Historically police were underpaid (and a very risky job) so they supplemented their income. I have attempted to always avoid mordida but there are times it is expected. "Oficial, de todos modos, ¿puedo pagarle la multa?" "Officer is there anyway I can pay you the fine?"

For those who have never cruised Mexico:

Upon first checking into Mexico: (different when coming by land, but same rules)
Cruising in Mexico is much different than in the USA--you have to have a fishing license for each person, and for the boat, if you have any fishing tackle on board, even if you are not going to fish when in Mexican waters.

You have to obtain and pay for an "import" permit (and that might have been an issue with the van described?) for vehicles, and boats. I believe currently the permit for Baja, is about $55 and it is for a temporary period--can be renewed once. Boats have been seized for lack of a permit.

You have to check into Mexico at the first port and each major port. Technically you need a Zarpe from the US. I have gotten the US customs form declaring valuable items taken out of the USA, and this has been accepted. There is also CBP Form 1300 for a Zarpe for commercial vessels, which can be used. There is a form for a "Crew List"DespachoEach crew member must have a tourist visa. There are forms, and often you have to buy "Stamps" at the bank. You need the boat's document or registration. (I always took copies, and include copy of passports. I kept extra copies and the originals hidden in the folder--I tried to avoid surrendering the original document or passport to authorities.) There is always the "Captain of the Port" Capitania del Puerto Immigration Migración,Customs Aduana, Agriculture, Health may also be included.

As you leave each port, you get permission and a Zarpe to the next port, even if it is in country. I have only used an "agent" once in hundreds of check in and outs. That was in Roatán Honduras, and the port captain was no where to be found. (The agent knew that he was at his mistresses), It cost a little more. When I checked into Guanaja, Honduras (a village all on stilts over the water), I was accompanied on the rounds by a couple of military men carrying AK 47's.. At the end, they asked for $50 "escort fee". I said, "if you will give me a receipt and official stamp, I'll pay the $50. I am checking at Coxen Hole, Roatán next." They laughed and said "Have a good day". That's the way of life in Central America and Mexico.

Each of these procedures often require some time, taxi rides and knowing when each office will be open. I have always enjoyed my interaction with port captains and officials. I always wore slacks, and a nice guayabera shirt. I try and learn a bit about them. Invite them to come aboard the boat. If they have children, I have gifts for the children--sometimes a little something extra for the port captain...
 
The check ins are usually pretty relaxed an fun. Dana being an OR nurse is really good at keeping track of paperwork and why we offered to help with sorting it out. The import permit is simple and good for 10 years and takes a week on line, virtually no port captain check ins in Baja. There is the fishing licenses and national parks pass for the offshore islands and Mexican boat liability insurance. All of it doesn't seem like a big deal to us once you have all the paperwork done and with you things go smoothly. We spend a lot of our time enjoying the beaches, hiking and hanging out with our cruising friends. Alain seems to enjoy his C-dory down there and I am sure we can work out a way to meet him.
 
Back
Top