window help!

Q

qboat

New member
I have three "windows" to replace on Runt. One is the lens on the hatch--that came out easily. Second is the center forward window, which is fixed--I am going to put in a top-hinged window. I have not been able to remover it--I am having a heck of a time getting whatever it is bonded in to let go. I have looked through past posts, and see this is a common problem--If anyone has advice beyond driving in thin chisels around the outside and trying to pry it away, I would be grateful. Also, I make the fiberglass around the rough opening to be 1/4" thick. Is that right?
The third is the starboard sliding window, which is badly cracked. It is laminated glass. Thanks to past posts, I was able to get it out. But whatever the handle is glued on with, I am so far unable to persuade it to let go. Any suggestions?
Finally, assuming I do get the front window out without bending the frame too much, I will be happy to give it to any one who could use it.
Thanks! Sam
 
You can try to apply some heat from a heat gun to soften up the adhesive, that might help. As you work your way around, place something between the window frame and boat to keep from gluing itself back as it cool off.
 
I haven't taken out the center window, but in situations where I need to remove something really stuck on, I use a heat gun and straight razor blades. Having something as a wedge once you start getting it to let go helps.
 
Sam,
On Osprey, a wiper blade fell off and the wiper arm made a smiley face into the laminated glass. I intended to replace the glass myself, but after lots of homework, deemed it better, to pay my local glass shop to do it.
The hatch on my 22 leaked and that one I took care of. It is very important, not to lock the hatch down firm, for several weeks, as the sealant takes about that look to completely cure.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php
 
C-wolfe and ssobol, thanks for the heat gun tip--it helped with the window latch and I will try it on the forward window frame.
Steve, that is good advice about the hatch lens Could I ask what sealant you used?
Thanks all. Sam
 
Yeah, the problem with the window latches is that when you want them to come off they won't and when you least expect it one will pop off and end up in the drink.
 
The proper sealant for the Hatch Lense is Dowsil 795

This was a subject of my talk at Hontoon. C Dory boat owners have damaged new and old lenses by using items like 5200 and other urethanes. Regular bathroom silicone will not do the job. Some have used Boat Life, Life Seal (combo urethane and silicone). The Dowsil is far better.
 
That is timely advice, Bob--thanks, I have ordered a tube. Any suggestion for glue to hold the latch on the sliding side window? Epoxy? Super glue?
 
qboat":3nn74fvl said:
That is timely advice, Bob--thanks, I have ordered a tube. Any suggestion for glue to hold the latch on the sliding side window? Epoxy? Super glue?
Click to expand...

I have used "windshield rear view mirror adhesive" and Epoxy. I believe that epoxy works the best.
 
qboat":is8x0xqg said:
That is timely advice, Bob--thanks, I have ordered a tube. Any suggestion for glue to hold the latch on the sliding side window? Epoxy? Super glue?
Click to expand...

I used 3M 5200 a few years ago. Latch is still firmly attached. Proper preparation of the surface before gluing is crucial and depends on what adhesive you use.
 
If you loose the latch, Perko makes a replacement which I assume will fit for about $11.
Perko 0954DP0STS Sliding Window Handle
 
The Perko handle does not lock, as the Diamond Sea Glass handle does. I suspect it may not allow the window to fully close, thus allowing some water to enter the cabin. One might make the Perko handle work by grinding out an area on the widow frame.. That may have other unintended consequences.
 
I wonder if anyone can address the thickness of the cabin in front where the windows are installed. As close as I can measure it with the window in place, I get 1/4" Is that right? Seems to be solid glass. If I could get the window out, I could put calipers on it, but so far no luck. I have applied heat to the frame, but only succeeded in damage the gelcoat. Whatever that frame was stuck in with, it is stuck in good.
 
The laminate is solid. It may be as thin as 3/16 or up to 1/4". There are ways to measure it with proper calipers. Use a 0 to 1" "C" micrometer caliber. Open it wide, slide over the area you want to measure and then close the caliper and read the thickness. Open the Caliper and remove.

Depend on the year, C Dory used mostly a Bostik (Marine 920 FS urethane). When I received my Tom Cat 255, someone had for gotten to caulk the cabin sides to the cabin top, although it was properly tabbed and glassed on the inside. C Dory sent me multiple tubes of this Bostik sealant. Pretty similar to 5200. I do not know if Debond will work with the Bostik, but I suspect it should. There are several agents which will soften the cured urethane sealants.
 
Bob, thanks. I have debond and will try it; the problem is getting it behind the frame and onto the sealant itself. I cannot even drive a thin metal putty knife behind the frame. It can't hurt to try soaking the area with debond, though. I hate to destroy the frame.

Here is one more dumb questiion. When I took the dog assembies loose from the lens on the hatch, the mushroom nuts that go through the lens fell out. I recovered them, but did not find an o-ring or gasket to go between the mushroom and the lens. Anybody know what goes in there? There are some white plastic washers in the assemly, but those appear to be just shims, not gaskets.
 
ssobol":hvqr30ax said:
Yeah, the problem with the window latches is that when you want them to come off they won't and when you least expect it one will pop off and end up in the drink.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I can relate precisely in fact. Is there a vendor to purchase those latches? These are specific to the port and starboard sliders. And the windows themselves are impossibly stuck. Anyway, any help is genuinley appreciated.

Dog River Brat
 
First clean out the window tracks. The "felt" is probably stuck against the glass, and often has mold and other lower life forms growing in it. Soak the track, use plenty of water. I like to put some bleach and dawn detergent in the track.

I find that I use a very small pry bar, between the frame and either exposed glass edge or the latch edge (latch pushed in) to use very gentle leverage to move the window a few mm at a time.

The latches are from the retail arm of Diamond Sea Glaze.

AdvanTec Manufacturing USA

28336 Hunter Creek Rd., Gold Beach, OR, 97444, USA
1.800.770.0455
info@advantecglobal.com

After you get the window un stuck, dry out the frame, and spay with dry silicone spray--Such as "Liquid rollers".
 
Dog River Brat":1oe7rbt5 said:
ssobol":1oe7rbt5 said:
Yeah, the problem with the window latches is that when you want them to come off they won't and when you least expect it one will pop off and end up in the drink.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I can relate precisely in fact. Is there a vendor to purchase those latches? These are specific to the port and starboard sliders. And the windows themselves are impossibly stuck. Anyway, any help is genuinley appreciated.

Dog River Brat
Click to expand...

Bob gave you the vender above. I called them last year to replace a latch. I think the latch was $30 or $40, but so was shipping. I refused to pay that much shipping for something that would fit in a padded envelope and weigh less than a pound. I ended up finding something on Amazon that worked just as well, except doesn't "lock". (It's great for having something to pull on to close or open the window.)

Just found my previous emails from August last year. The latch costs $35, and per their rep: "The shipping quote I received is $ 29.76 via fed ex." That was from wherever they ship from, to Wisconsin.

This is the non-locking latch I purchased for $11:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008Y ... UTF8&psc=1

Colby
 
Colby mentioned window locks or lack there of.

We have always carried several locks which will keep the window from moving back on its track more than the amount opened. For example when you want to leave the windows open for ventilation, but don't want any one breaking into the boat (easily).

Here are some which are about $1.60 each.

These screw onto the window frame.
 
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