It's time for us to put a windlass on our 22 C. We have been hand pulling two anchors for 15 years. Our backs say "spend the money and save us." Is this a shop job or can we do it? I'm okay with the electrical, but have my doubts on the deck plate mounting. I've seen the recommendations for the H 700 , but I have also seen some horrible reviews. Any help would be appreciated. We could use our "local" shop in Oxnard or make a trip to visit family in Bellingham to get it done up north. Or.... with the right motivation take it on myself.
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Windlass
- Thread starter knewlin
- Start date
starcrafttom
Active member
I have do this twice. once in my 22 and again in my 27. I might be doing it again is a friends 22. Its not very hard Its just scary cutting out the hole the first time. The Electrical is the harder part.
Tips: make sure you know where you want it before you cut. and it has nothing to do with how it looks. You want the rode to drop right into the deepest part of the locker. If it hits the wall first it has a tendency to pile up and then not feed and slip on the drum.
second. after you cut the hole under cut the glass at least a 1/2 inch,1 inch is better. also the bolt holes. Then back fill with epoxy. Use the largest washers you can get for the thru bolts.
After that its easy. Best upgrade you can get.
Tips: make sure you know where you want it before you cut. and it has nothing to do with how it looks. You want the rode to drop right into the deepest part of the locker. If it hits the wall first it has a tendency to pile up and then not feed and slip on the drum.
second. after you cut the hole under cut the glass at least a 1/2 inch,1 inch is better. also the bolt holes. Then back fill with epoxy. Use the largest washers you can get for the thru bolts.
After that its easy. Best upgrade you can get.
I use a hole saw-have done 3 of the windlass installs. The Lewmar 700 H is a good windlass. The vertical are more prone to issues, with the amount of chain fall, and the vertical axis.
Lay the templet on the deck, cut and drill away. Tom gives you good advice--I only undercut about 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Usually there is enough room to mount the windlass just in front of the fore deck cleat, with enough room to slip a 1/2" loop of dock line between the cleat and the back of the windlass.
Lay the templet on the deck, cut and drill away. Tom gives you good advice--I only undercut about 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Usually there is enough room to mount the windlass just in front of the fore deck cleat, with enough room to slip a 1/2" loop of dock line between the cleat and the back of the windlass.
One more data point and hopefully encouragement...
We successfully installed a Lewmar 700H and a new self-launching anchor roller ourselves last year, and I'm far less handy than Bob and Tom.
Before marking and cutting, lay everything out on the bow to ensure all the components fit and have room to properly operate. You'll likely need heavier (and expensive) wiring from the battery to the contactor.
We successfully installed a Lewmar 700H and a new self-launching anchor roller ourselves last year, and I'm far less handy than Bob and Tom.
Before marking and cutting, lay everything out on the bow to ensure all the components fit and have room to properly operate. You'll likely need heavier (and expensive) wiring from the battery to the contactor.