joechiro35
New member
I want to put a windlass anchoring system to my cdory 22 cruiser. I would like to purchase one and have it installed can anyone help?
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Windlass anchor purchase and installation
- Thread starter joechiro35
- Start date
I'm assuming you boat in the PNW given the Marysville office. The short answer and it's strictly my opinion for what it's worth, Get a Lewmar Pro 700 Horizontal Windlass, $ 699 and a Lewmar Delta Fast-Set 22# anchor, $ 143. Add 50' of 1/4" hi test chain and 200-250' or 1/2" rope rode. Prices are from Hodges Marine.
I've used 2 Delta anchors, a 35# on a 35,000 lb trawler and a 26# on a TomCat. In 11 years with these two boats, neither anchor ever failed to set or dragged. I think the Rocna and Manson are overrated and overpriced.
I've used 2 Delta anchors, a 35# on a 35,000 lb trawler and a 26# on a TomCat. In 11 years with these two boats, neither anchor ever failed to set or dragged. I think the Rocna and Manson are overrated and overpriced.
joechiro35
New member
just updated my profile...I am in Marysville WA
Thanks for the input everyone. I think I am going to look into buying the lewmar.
However, how should I go about installing it?
Joe
Thanks for the input everyone. I think I am going to look into buying the lewmar.
However, how should I go about installing it?
Joe
I would agree with Pat--perhaps with one minor exception--or two. The windlass, chain and rode yes. I have the Delta 14, which is what most of us have on the 22 C Dory. I think you are going to have to find a real bargin to get the 22# at that price Pat mentions (they mostly run over $200)--and you may need to modify or replace the bow roller. I would buy a Ronca or Manson Supreme 15# over the Delta Fastset--and have used both the 22# Delta and the 25# Manson Supreme in testing in sand, mud, mud/shell conditons. I used the Manson for 3 years on the C Dory 25, including all of the PNW, from San Juans to the Broughtons, and a month in Alaska, plus several trips to Powell. I may buy a Ronca or Manson Supreme for my 22' C Dory to replace the 14.
The reason I would buy the Manson is that I have had a 14# Delta drag several times at Lake Powell. When that happened each time a 7 # Fortress (one of my two stern anchors--and now I have 3 Fortress/guardian aboard), set and held. There are some places, where the Delta will not penetrate the sand at Powell and will drag. I am sure that there are other places where this is true also. I have not had a Delta drag in the PNW.
The Manson is more expensive, but not much more so. You will have to modify the bow roller bale (assuming the boat has a roller bale) to fit the Manson or the Delta--although my Delta wedges into the bale, and I am satisfied with that--a larger roller would be better...The Manson (or Ronca)
are a different type of fluke which can come close to the boat--and if that is the case--then you may want to modify the roller. You can also have any good machine shop make a larger bale should not be expensive.
Congratulations on buying a C Dory 22. I assume you got the one we discussed.
Installing the windlass requires a 3" diameter hole saw, a good power drill capable of turning the 3" hole saw, with a 3/8" bit. When you cut the holes in the deck, you will want to under cut them with a dremel tool, or bent coat hanger on a drill, and remove about 1/8 to 3/16" of the balsa core-then coat the raw balsa with wet epoxy and fill with thickened epoxy, then smooth the center of the 3" hole--redrill with the 3/8. Using West Systems Six 10 thickened epoxy is an easier way to do this--and you may want to buy a tube of this for other epoxy potting projects on the boat. I like to make a backing plate for the windlass--or at the very least put in the largest 3/8 fender washers you can find. I have made the backing plate out of plywood or out of aluminum. This distributes the load over the deck much better. Use the same pattern for holes in the back up plate as you use for the deck.
Having said all of that, I still don't have a windlass on the current 22, and we seem to get by well--but I have a good strong wife to help! (in seriousness, we haven't been anchoring in deep water, and pop the anchor out with the boat. You should not pull the boat to the anchor, or break out the anchor with the windlass. You also should always take the rode off the windlass and put it on the cleat when you anchor. We have made covers for the windlass, which helps to keep any moisture out of the boat in heavy conditions. WE also put a keeper on the anchor when underway, not depending on the windlass to hold the chain.
The reason I would buy the Manson is that I have had a 14# Delta drag several times at Lake Powell. When that happened each time a 7 # Fortress (one of my two stern anchors--and now I have 3 Fortress/guardian aboard), set and held. There are some places, where the Delta will not penetrate the sand at Powell and will drag. I am sure that there are other places where this is true also. I have not had a Delta drag in the PNW.
The Manson is more expensive, but not much more so. You will have to modify the bow roller bale (assuming the boat has a roller bale) to fit the Manson or the Delta--although my Delta wedges into the bale, and I am satisfied with that--a larger roller would be better...The Manson (or Ronca)
are a different type of fluke which can come close to the boat--and if that is the case--then you may want to modify the roller. You can also have any good machine shop make a larger bale should not be expensive.
Congratulations on buying a C Dory 22. I assume you got the one we discussed.
Installing the windlass requires a 3" diameter hole saw, a good power drill capable of turning the 3" hole saw, with a 3/8" bit. When you cut the holes in the deck, you will want to under cut them with a dremel tool, or bent coat hanger on a drill, and remove about 1/8 to 3/16" of the balsa core-then coat the raw balsa with wet epoxy and fill with thickened epoxy, then smooth the center of the 3" hole--redrill with the 3/8. Using West Systems Six 10 thickened epoxy is an easier way to do this--and you may want to buy a tube of this for other epoxy potting projects on the boat. I like to make a backing plate for the windlass--or at the very least put in the largest 3/8 fender washers you can find. I have made the backing plate out of plywood or out of aluminum. This distributes the load over the deck much better. Use the same pattern for holes in the back up plate as you use for the deck.
Having said all of that, I still don't have a windlass on the current 22, and we seem to get by well--but I have a good strong wife to help! (in seriousness, we haven't been anchoring in deep water, and pop the anchor out with the boat. You should not pull the boat to the anchor, or break out the anchor with the windlass. You also should always take the rode off the windlass and put it on the cleat when you anchor. We have made covers for the windlass, which helps to keep any moisture out of the boat in heavy conditions. WE also put a keeper on the anchor when underway, not depending on the windlass to hold the chain.
journey on
New member
In addition to the mechanical stuff for mounting the windlass, you need decent electrical wiring. The motor in the winch needs battery voltage and this means dedicated wires direct from the battery, through a 35 amp circuit breaker, through the power relay and thence to the winch. I'd use at least 10 ga, 8 preferable.
Also, I start the engine before I pull up the anchor so there is good voltage at the battery. Remember, that winch (DC motor) pulls a lot of amps and needs good voltage to get the current through. Of course, the relay operates through the panel switch, but that can use 16 ga wiring.
And now, on to anchors. Bob and I disagree as to what anchors work well where. I found that the PNW is primarily mud, and a Delta or Bruce/claw works well there. I bought a Manson for the seaweed and grass we have in SoCal. It has a sharp nose and a thin profile that lets it dig into the seaweed, but lets it pull through mud. For the best all around anchor, I also have a Danforth anchor. Real good everywhere, but not fashionable. Cheap.
The 4# Fortress is a light anchor, works well in sand but doesn't have the weight to dig into seaweed or grass. Anything works well in sand, that's why all the tests are done in that type of bottom. I have both a 4# and a 15# fortress, only lightly used. Cheap to a good home.
Over to you, Bob
Boris
Also, I start the engine before I pull up the anchor so there is good voltage at the battery. Remember, that winch (DC motor) pulls a lot of amps and needs good voltage to get the current through. Of course, the relay operates through the panel switch, but that can use 16 ga wiring.
And now, on to anchors. Bob and I disagree as to what anchors work well where. I found that the PNW is primarily mud, and a Delta or Bruce/claw works well there. I bought a Manson for the seaweed and grass we have in SoCal. It has a sharp nose and a thin profile that lets it dig into the seaweed, but lets it pull through mud. For the best all around anchor, I also have a Danforth anchor. Real good everywhere, but not fashionable. Cheap.
The 4# Fortress is a light anchor, works well in sand but doesn't have the weight to dig into seaweed or grass. Anything works well in sand, that's why all the tests are done in that type of bottom. I have both a 4# and a 15# fortress, only lightly used. Cheap to a good home.
Over to you, Bob
Boris
redbaronace
New member
Great discussion and one reason that the windlass was high on the list of options I was hoping to find installed when we were looking for a boat.
Anybody here get one installed previously who can quote a price for labor for the OP?
Anybody here get one installed previously who can quote a price for labor for the OP?
As we have discussed before, it is the co-hesion of any sand/mud which makes an anchor good. The general rule in the gulf coast is that Danforth High Test type (Fortress/Guardian), which has the "T" section is best for sand/mud. Mud itself is not good holding, and an anchor must get down thru non cohesive mud to the lower sub strait. I have found that even a Fisherman works OK in mud, IF it can get to the sub strait rapidly. In our area the worse anchors are the Bruce. CQR and Delta are not good in mud, but the Manson is.
Our experience in the PNW (spent 4 years--6 months a year--cruising a Cal 46 there, covered most of the area with 5 trips to AK, to Queen Charlette, around Vancouver, was we used the CQR (which is what we had set up as the primaary--60#)--and a Danforth as secondary--both on the bow allof the time. In our 5 trips to the PNW in C Dories, we have used Delta and Manson--both successfully--but always have serveral Fortress available. As we cruised North in the PNW we found more rocky anchorages than soupy mud--again, it depends on where you go--and I always suggest that at least one Danforth type, and one either Spade (Ronca or Manson) or Plow (Delta) also be aboard.
In S. Calif in our racing boats we used only the Danforth High Test-and I emphasize High Test. Same for Mexico. When we switched to Cruising we went with both Danforth, as well as CQR as the primary--with a Northill and Fisherman as back ups. But these were big heavy sail boats. So anchors are somewhat like religion--it is what works for you--but keep the faith in some God. That seems to be a Danforth HT type for many of us... (don't take this literally!)
Our experience in the PNW (spent 4 years--6 months a year--cruising a Cal 46 there, covered most of the area with 5 trips to AK, to Queen Charlette, around Vancouver, was we used the CQR (which is what we had set up as the primaary--60#)--and a Danforth as secondary--both on the bow allof the time. In our 5 trips to the PNW in C Dories, we have used Delta and Manson--both successfully--but always have serveral Fortress available. As we cruised North in the PNW we found more rocky anchorages than soupy mud--again, it depends on where you go--and I always suggest that at least one Danforth type, and one either Spade (Ronca or Manson) or Plow (Delta) also be aboard.
In S. Calif in our racing boats we used only the Danforth High Test-and I emphasize High Test. Same for Mexico. When we switched to Cruising we went with both Danforth, as well as CQR as the primary--with a Northill and Fisherman as back ups. But these were big heavy sail boats. So anchors are somewhat like religion--it is what works for you--but keep the faith in some God. That seems to be a Danforth HT type for many of us... (don't take this literally!)
I had a 700H installed last Feb. and labor was $700.
Bill Kelleher
Bill Kelleher
redbaronace":1y64y2d2 said:Great discussion and one reason that the windlass was high on the list of options I was hoping to find installed when we were looking for a boat.
Anybody here get one installed previously who can quote a price for labor for the OP?