Will I be happy?

Ballpark, What should I expect the damages to be if I trade in the 2006 60HP 4 stroke EFI for a new 115HP installed? Is it a simple swap or do you have to change the controls too?
 
wait until you use the 60 before making the decision. If you stick with Merc; same controls. New engine probably is name 2000. so gauges can read on newer chart plotter.
 
Your earlier estimate of $7k including trade-in is in the ballpark for a repower to a 90, possibly more depending on options or going to larger HP.

Yes, you can re-use the existing controls as well as the analog tach with a new Merc 90. As Bob indicated the new Mercs are NMEA2000 compatible, but that's about a $1500 upgrade (worth it in my opinion - the digitial tach is much nicer, and displays lots of other data points, including fuel burn. Will also interface with your NMEA 2000 compatible GPS devices, but not sure if the boat has them anyway.).

If sticking with Merc, be sure to get a 2014 or newer Command Thrust version, either 115 or 90 should be fine, they are both the same 2.1L block, larger displacement than other brand's 90's but not as big and heavy as some 115's. The 115 is about $1500 more than the 90. These Command Thrust versions run the larger V6 lower units so you are swinging a big 15x17 prop with a lower gear ratio than what a Honda or Yamaha 90 has. I've not felt underpowered with my CT90 hauling 4 large men and gear, and have not for a second regretted getting the 90 over the 115, and using the saved money on the digital gauges / NMEA interface instead.

As a side note, if you're into doing your own maintenance, these new Mercs are awesome. Oil changes, filter changes, plugs, lower unit - it's all so easy and completely mess-free, I'm now a convert - much easier to do yourself than hassle with scheduling a dealer service. I've had mine just over a year and am currently at 220 hours and counting.

As Bob suggested, try the 60 first (sounds like it's a similar Big Foot version as the newer Command Thrust, and might be OK if lightly loaded), and then if you decide to upgrade, you have some great options in the Merc 90 or 115 CT models without having to change gauges or controls. Also be sure to get a Permatrim on whatever motor you get (about $140)!

-Mike
 
Oregun01":16sb4zr0 said:
Ballpark, What should I expect the damages to be if I trade in the 2006 60HP 4 stroke EFI for a new 115HP installed? Is it a simple swap or do you have to change the controls too?
Click to expand...

My guess is you'll get around $3000 trade for the 60hp. Give the guys at Stevens Marine a call and ask them to give you a rough magnitude idea on cost to you for the new engine.

Towing home, 500 per day would be an upper limit for me. We just did 2400 in 4 days, towing a 7,500# Airstream. Not my idea of fun.

Edit: I agree w/Dr Bob. Use the boat before making a decision on an upgrade. I suspect most of us think it is not enough, but you may like it. It's really a personal choice.
 
I don't mean to discourage you at all from the trip, it could be a great adventure. But.... that is a really long distance haul for a boat your not convinced is going to be exactly what you want.

C-dorys are common in Washington and Oregon, and pop up for sale pretty frequently there, much closer to home. When we bought our first c-dory, we'd been shopping all over the country and eventually found the perfect boat just up the road from home. It was meant to be.

I think your underestimating the time its going to take. Even if your driving all day long. We made that trip towing a trailer and it took us the good part of a week, and those were some long days.
 
Thanks again everyone. I think the one in TN is gone but I found an 03 in OR that sounds promising (Paul was right). I might make a run over the hill to take a look at it tomorrow.

What should I look for Structurally? Are the any signs that say run a way?
 
I would look for soft spots in the deck or cockpit. Look for structural cracks around the transom. Put the outboard all the way up and put some body weight on it and look for flexing in the transom. It should be stiff. Look to see that all the electrical works. A cheap moisture meter would be really helpful though I’ll admit I’ve never used one to evaluate a boat, I probably should’ve. I also believe you can tell a lot by the general condition of the boat. If some things are neglected, there’s likely things unseen neglected as well. Good luck!
 
Most defects are repairable...the new transom would probably be the most expensive,(Paul's weight test is the way) except for replacement of the entire floor of the cockpit (bottom of the hull) If the boat has been kept under cover it should be good. Anyplace where water can get into the deck core could be a problem. Usually this is only a short area from a hatch or screw intrusion.

I replaced most of the cockpit floor (not bottom of boat in the 25) in a 2003 25 which sat out in the weather for several winters in New Jersey--I know of several boats where substantial parts of the hull/cockpit floor were replaced. Very rare for a C Dory 22 to be scraped.

Be sure and run the motor for a sea trail. If any question, have a mechanic check out the engine--compression, leak down etc. The carburetor engines have issues with ethanol fuel, and may have to be rebuilt or at least cleaned if not drained after use.
 
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