Water Under Aft Cockpit in 07 Venture

The photos do help. The bottom line remains that all edges which are not sealed-be it foam or balsa core, need to be sealed with epoxy or excapsulated with fiberglass and resin, so to be water tight. Foam may not not, but it will add un-necessary weight to a boat. With time, there is enough weight that it can be a problem.
 
Nora Lim, Just to clarify. Look at the second photo in my photo album. The material between the two layers of fiberglass is foam. It is part of the structure of the cockpit floor.
 
Bill on Best Day,

You are, of course, entirely correct. The boat has both foam coring (as part of the cockpit sole) and blown-in foam as a filler/flotation in the space between the sole and the hull. At this point my main concern (I hope!) is soggy flotation foam and standing water in the unfilled portions of the space. I don't think I have any worrisome flex or softness in the cockpit sole. Will be drilling soon. Thanks again for all the postings.

Bill on NORO LIM
 
Hi Ross, it looks like you got your photo album figured out. I just looked at your photos. It looks like when Fluid Marine built the boat they used the support beam under the deck instead of foam. That is probably a better design. Also interesting how they ran the wires out of the cabin, under the cockpit floor and then back into the cabin. Like I said previously on my Cape Cruiser made 23 Venture the water line runs under the cabin floor at the bulkhead.

After looking at your pictures it is no wonder the thru hull leaked. It looks like it was being held in place by a lot of sealant and a little bit of tension on the nut. You could always fill the 5/8" void you have between the hull and cockpit floor with resin, redrill the thru hull hole and then be able to tighten the bolt on the thru hull tight. Or another solution would be a thru transom water pickup. That is what I used on my boat.

Great pics and thanks for the info.

Bill
 
Ross has great pictures of the area we have all been referring to under the aft cockpit and under the cabin floor.

On our 07 Venture (made by the original builders) the water tank is in the bow and the spar goes down the middle of the cockpit floor. The next series was made by the C-dory folks.

I highly compliment Ross on his pictures (including some cabinet work), and I would strongly recommend going to his photo album and checking out the great photos he took of his project.

I've looked at the Sea Sport, and its quality suggests a superior product if they produce more Ventures. For example, I completely rewired our boat as automotive wire and of inadequate size was used. Sea Sport wiring seems first class and looks like it adheres to the ABYA standards.

Hopefully, we now have the fixes and the photos to do the refit.

Tim and Dave Kinghorn
 
ross_ballard":ve1xzdkp said:
Hey Guy's
I own a 2009 23 Venture and I have fixed the water problems you guys are talking about last year. I took pretty detailed pictures during the repairs and have tried to post them for everyone to see on "Recent C-Dory Photo Activity" on the home page. Titled "Pacific Wanderer", 2009 Venture 23 Cockpit Floor Access Hole", 2009 Venture 23 Galley Floor Access Hole and have more subjects yet to show. <<Stuffed Clipped>>
Cheers :D
Ross
VERY IMPRESSIVE ROSS! Thank you for sharing. :thup :thup :thup
 
ROSS - Great pictures, Thanks! They'll help when I get brave enough to begin cutting inspection holes ... ugh. Interesting camera you're using. (You might want to get the cardiac catheter back to the hospital before someone misses it!)

I spent a couple hours this afternoon looking into the situation beneath my water tank. Ross's pictures show pretty well what I found. The only real difference appeared to be the lack of a channel for hoses and wiring running over from the galley area (at least I can see any). There appears to just be a small scupper-like hole that permits the water to trickle from the galley side to the water tank side or vice versa. The water hose and pump switch cabling appear to run directly from beneath the water tank to the galley area, rather than out into the cockpit. On Thursday (Friday?) I'll begin dismantling the galley shelving to see what's beneath. I'm almost afraid to look, since I expect to find more water. ...and I haven't even gotten to the area beneath the cockpit deck! Oh what fun!

Since the water tank is (now) removed, I'll take the opportunity to install a waterproof port in the top to facilitate cleaning (if I ever want to do so). I may also rebuild the watertank support stand. It's fabricated from 3/4" plywood, but not painted or protected with anything. It's been sitting in up to about 1.5" of water, so ought to be replaced. I don't have any experience with fiberglass, but will hopefully find some coating that will suffice for waterproofing at least the legs of the tank support, and maybe the whole thing. Having the old one to use for a pattern will be helpful.

Oh, goodness, it feels good to be back into "boating!"

Best,
Casey
 
Hey Guy's
Thank you Bill of "Best Day" for you complements advice and encouragement to help keep me trying to learn how to post my pictures and albums.
I’m grateful to have learned a lot from the many participants on this site over the years. It's a pleasure to give back.
I'm sorry to hear so many of you 23 Venture owners having water problems with your boats. It was pretty disappointing for me as well to have to work my way through so many problematic details after paying top dollar for a new boat.
Christy and I are so happy with our boat now. She performs in many ways better than I had anticipated and I’m pleased with the fuel economy. I can see us owning and enjoying this boat for a long time to come.

I agree with a past post, that any penetration into a cored area must be epoxy sealed. Caulking just doesn't cut it, not even for the short term. You are fooling yourself if you apply a good layer of expensive caulking and think it will seal a cored penetration.

If you check my pictures out, have a look at the repairs that I made for the leaky Wallas stove exhaust. The Wallas stove isn’t perfect, but it sure is nice to have such dry warmth in the wet and cold times. In our photo album you’ll see that I replaced the one gallon fuel container with a 5 gallon fuel container. We can now run the Wallas 24 hours a day for over a week before I need to add fuel. I carry a 1000 watt Honda Generator to keep the batteries charged when needed. We also carry a one burner Origo alcohol stove and one Origo alcohol heater. Their great as an added bonus and often come in handy.

I'm pleased with the repairs that I have made in the folders shown in my album, and would follow the same procedures if I had to do it over again, with my present level of knowledge. Our boat lives in the water and is dry from one end to the other. The inspection holes are a must in my opinion. When opportunity has it, I use my two portable battery operated fans to blow air down into the inspection holes. These fans require 4-D cell batteries and can run 24 hours a day for over a week before they need battery replacement. They can be plugged into a 120 volt outlet as well. I don’t have any water leaks, but I’m careful to watch for condensation build up under the decks. We enjoy boating all year round here in British Columbia. With the Wallas stove, the Venture wall insulation and a couple of portable, battery operated fans, we have no condensation problems in the boat. We stay warm, dry and comfortable all year round.

We have no blown in foam anywhere in our boat. It seems Fluid Marine was going through some growing development procedures in reference to so many differently built boats.

Bill of "Best Day".
I chose to glass in any openings under the water line, including the step/storage box drains, port and starboard in the cockpit.
I now have a 5 foot length of flex hose laying in the motor well along with another 5 foot length of hose that can be easily screwed together. This 3/4” hose connects to the inlet on the wash down pump located below the battery’s and between the gas tanks. It runs out the same hole on the starboard side with all the motor controls. The ¾” flexible white water lines all have plastic screw on caps to keep any unwanted stuff out of the lines. I can now throw that hose over the side to suck up wash down water when I want. The other idea that I like about this is that I have another bilge pump for the cockpit area, if I want it. I also carry a 25 foot length of garden hose for washing down my anchor rode if needed and another 6 foot length of garden hose for discharge. I can now pump out another boat, my dingy, or anything else within 35 feet.

I also put a “T” in my fresh water line under the drawers on the starboard side and a matching brass/chrome male hose bib on the starboard side in the cockpit, so I can pump out my water tank at any time to refresh it, give some fresh water to someone else, or use fresh water to clean our porta potti.

Back to water problems.
There were no ventilation holes in the battery compartment. A safety no no, as far as I’ve learned. Also there were no drain holes in the battery compartment to get rid of trapped water. I also vented the storage box/steps, port and starboard, as I found that mold would grow in there if I didn’t.

Anyways Guy’s I think the Cape Cruisers 23’s /C-dory Venture 23’s are beautifully designed boats. They were to be the next generation of economically run skimmer/cruisers for their size . I think most manufacturers must go through growing pains when they develop a new product line. Maybe multiple change in ownership and challenging economic times have made it very difficult during the production of these boats. The problems that we are dealing with are small compared to how many good well thought out ideas that went into the development of these boats. I’m trying to see the greater picture now.

I wish you all well with your repairs and that you get them completed quickly, economically, and get back to enjoying these beautiful boats.

All the Best
Cheers :D
Ross
 
The photos were very helpful. I've removed the fuel tanks and used epoxy putty to seal the lagbolt holes and the 2 plug holes.Now comes the part I'm leery about. My plan is a 6" inspection plate just in front of the tanks at the midline.My 06 shouldn't have the metal spar and sounding with a mallet as Bill suggested seems to verify that. Does anyone think a 6"" plate here would significantly weaken the deck? Should I install it with 5200 or epoxy? Thanks for any input guys. Alan
 
Its a good idea to check and follow the instructions that come with your chosen inspection plate. Some plastics are not compatible with some sealers.
 
Gentlemen – I am going to venture into this thread. I am not an expert on the Venture series of boats but do have some firsthand knowledge of the boats from several people that were involved with the building of them. I have been told the early models had a balsa core in the floor of the boat. Bill (Best Day), I would look very close at your coring. I can tell by looking at the color, it is not the same type of foam coring we are using on the Marinaut. The core in the Marinaut floor is 8 lb ¾ in. foam. While it is light in weight, it is very dense and would be very hard to leave a thumb nail imprint in it. Its color is a dark grey. If you can dent yours with your thumb nail it is most likely balsa or a lesser density foam. If it is a Fluid Marine boat then it could be some type of foam. The first few Venture models did not have a stiff arm (a cedar 2 by something) under the deck floor. Later versions did have the stiff arm down the middle of the deck floor to give a stiffer feel. I couldn’t tell you what hull number this happened on. The stiff arm was suppose to have been glassed to the bottom of the deck floor and ran from the transom to the cabin.

The floor system on the Venture 23 is actually three separate pieces glassed together in the boat. The 26‘s floor system was only two pieces. Any of the seams that were glassed together could conceivably have a pin hole that would allow water between the hull and floor. The floor is also glassed to the stern at floor level so again I would check this area for possible leaks. The other possible leak area is the chain locker drain. I do know they had a problem with it, if it was not properly sealed where the drain, the floor system and hull meet up. That area was ground down into the floor system to install the drain. If it was not properly sealed afterwards, it could allow water between the hull and floor system or under the berth.

I hope we have solved these issues on the Marinaut 215. The floor system is a true one piece floor and it is rolled up at least 4 inches where it is glassed to the hull. Water would have to get at least 4 inches deep before it would leak between the two pieces. We will also spend the time to make sure our seams are properly sealed and glassed over. We will not have anything screwed or bolted to the floor of the deck. The void between the floor and deck is open (dead air space) nothing sprayed in. If our chain locker develops a leak it will get your attention, it will drip on the V-Berth instead of between the floor and hull.

If I can answer any other questions you have about the Venture series, I will try. As I said, I am not an expert on the boat. Most of you that have one, know more about them than I do and will probably be more help to each other than I can be. You guys and gals that have the Venture series boat have a solid boat and good design. There was some detail work that was not taken properly taken care of, but this can happen with any builder when they are having financial trouble.

_______
Dave dlt.gif
www.tolandmarine.com
 
The best sealer for a plastic vent will be Boat Life "Life Caulk"--it is a urethane/silicone combination. As Larry noted, you don't want to use epoxy and 5200 may not be the best choice (although it has been used).
 
Dave,

Thanks for your input on these issues.

I think most of us would agree that there are some bothersome issues, but we'll work through them item by item. I Love the boat - and I expect most owners would agree.

As mentioned in some earlier postings, I will probably be cutting-in some inspection ports in the near future to inspect for water, and facilitate the drying process as necessary. Do you have any recommendations as to where NOT to cut a hole? Obviously I don't want to cut into any support member (the cedar 2x2, if present) or a stringer or spar.

Again, thanks for your thoughts and ideas.

Best,
Casey
 
So the early cape cruisers 06 they did not have a spar(spruce) 2by2 running down the middle of the cockpit floor is this correct .

Can we put inspection plates between gas tanks without cutting into a spar is this true on early cape cruisers?? I guess I have to pull the boat and weigh it and pull the inspection plate under porta potti and check for water

why cant we put a small vertical inspection plate under the door going out to the cockpit . I need to measure this today and see if a 3 in inspection plate will work then one could look with flashlight and see if any water has accumulated .
 
Ross,
First, thanks for sharing. I wondered where you purchased your new thru hull exhaust for the Wallas stove? Is there a part number I could trouble you for? I also wanted to know if that white covering on the Wallas exhaust hose was standard stuff. I have a Airtronic D-2 and my exhaust does not have the insulation on the exhaust. I also wondered if you had a problem with your anchor box drain? I'm not sure where that is supposed to go. Fortunately my thru hull does not seem to leak as I would show water at the rear of the cabin floor under the water tank or on the other side under the drawers. I have spent a week on the boat in the water the whole time with no apparent water showing up anywhere I could see. I do get some rain water coming thru the holes at the back of the cabin that allows the hose and wiring to get from port to the starboard side. That would seem to indicate that the void between the cockpit floor and the foam was full of water. This winter I kept everything I could opened up the boat covered with a heater on all winter long. I thought its was coming from leaks in the cockpit area caulk joints. I'm going to remove my gas tanks and raise them slightly on strips of starboard that run front to back so not to have junk build up underneath as currently rubber strips go from side to side and things seem to lay under there. While they are out out I want to make sure I don't have the anti siphon valves type pickups and cut the bottom of the fuel pickups at 45 degree angle as some others have mentioned. I'm undecided about my thru hull for the wash down. Glassing it over fixes it but a tube the whole length epoxied in place would allow you to get it tightened up. I wonder what others with thru hulls think about pulling the thru hulls and double checking hem or just glassing up the hole and be done with it. Most thru hull transducers use Lifetime caulk sealant and are not a problem. I'll cut an inspection hole as you did in the cockpit. That sounds like something all C.C. and 23 Ventures owners ought to do. Venture mods sounds like it should have it's own album. Thanks again for taking the time. Happy Trails,
D.D.
 
jennykatz":1rmfkdrj said:
why cant we put a small vertical inspection plate under the door going out to the cockpit . I need to measure this today and see if a 3 in inspection plate will work then one could look with flashlight and see if any water has accumulated .

Hey Jim,

I like your idea. An access opening in the cabin between the bottom of the door frame and the cabin sole would allow me to look 'aft' and see the space under the cockpit deck & hull. If no water was present, YIPPEE, and move onto next item on boat "to do" list. When you measure, could you let us know what size port/plate can fit there?

thanks,

/david
 
I discovered the the C-dory folks posted a thread about water under the bilge area in May of 09 In the Hull, Deck, and Fittings forum. It seems they have the same problem we have with the Venture.

Tim and Dave
 
Hey Dave
I've answered your questions by adding more info to the description below the pictures in my album. Thinking that people in the future may have the same questions.
I think adding a 6 inch access holes to the underside of the galley floor and the cockpit floor is a must. I periodically check these areas for water. I now find only condensation build up in these areas and explain how I use a small fan to dry out the condensation in my album pictures.
For me the water under the galley floor came from the poor placement of the anchor locker drain hole. Kinda hard to explain without making a drawing or using a picture with some added coments, but here we go.
Picture in your mind where the anchor locker bulkhead meets the port side of the hull, at the point where the anchor locker drain hole is. Stick your head in the anchor locker and look at the drain hole on the port from the inside. The fiberglass tape connecting the bulkhead to the hull side at this point on my boat was rounded in place, not pressed tightly into the corner to make a 90 degree corner with the connection of the bulkhead. Behind this poorly rounded in fiberglass tape is a void due to not pressing the tape tightly into the corner. I suspect the drain hole for the anchor locker was drilled from the outside into the anchor locker. They may have made a template for the repeated placement of this hole. Someone just happened to drill the hole through behind the rounded corner, closer to the bulkhead. Behind this tape is the opportunity for water to leak into the hull and collect under the galley floor. I suggest apoxying in this area around the drain hole and raising the bottom of the anchor locker floor to the height of the drain hole, to eliminate standing water.

The water that collected under my cockpit floor was as a direct result from the salt water wash down pick up under the boat. I think everything is well shown in my album.

Look in my album again for how I made repairs to our wallas stove exhaust and see how I dealt with water intrusion there. A list of web sites, where to find information, and purchase parts is also included.

Hope this helps
Cheers :D
Ross
 
Next week I will see three of the people that know more than I do about the Venture boats. If I can get actual drawings or plans of the boats, I will post them somewhere you can see them, If I can’t I will make something that shows the location of all joints in the floor and any stringers under the deck floor. I will also try and find out the various changes made to the boat and the model years it was made.

_______
Dave dlt.gif
www.tolandmarine.com
 
Oldgrowth, that would be great. I know they started with a 3 piece interior with 20 gallon water tank on the port side. They ended up with a 1 piece interior with 30 gallon water tank in the bow. They also added the support to the cockpit floor sometime in 07 as my boat (one of the first 07 models) did not have it. Other small changes where also made and it would be great to know what they were.

Ross, my Venture also leaks water at the Wallas vent hole. If I'm not worried about wind blowing the exhaust back into the boat can I just add more sealant to the existing vent and retighten it? What's your advice.

Also you say you properly epoxy sealed everything under the water line. Does this include the drain hole? If so any advice?

I'm jealous of your step storage boxes. When I saw one of the first Ventures made by C-Dory with those I really likes them. I still may try to cut lids into my existing steps. It definitely would be a convenient and easy place to store gear in the cockpit.

Jennykatz, you should not have a support under the cockpit floor on an 06 Venture. I looked at the spot under the cabin door and didn't see an inspection plate at West Marine that would fit there. Maybe a 3" or 4" will fit. Please let us know what you find out.

Bill
 
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