Wallas Troubleshooting Help

Aaaaaaa....what we may have done and might have found is aaaa.... on a need to know basis. All I can state for the record is that the stove runs now.....
Kind of reminds me of the VP and WMD.
 
Dora~Jean":18eb87pw said:
I don't get his statements:

First he said it ran fine right out of the box, then he said he had to "bang the pump HARD"??? Was that a 'preventative maintenance bang' before shipping it back, or, a 'startup bang' to make it run "fine"?

Seems important.
Click to expand...

Mike' (the technician's) banging seems to be preventative. I've called them while having problems installing a friends new Wallas 30D and 95D. Their answer then when we couldn't get the 30D to start was whacking the pump, didn't work for us. They sent a new pump for him and it worked great then, but they told us the pump we returned was fine.

He said if I wanted they would sell me a new pump to keep as a spare, but it would cost me around $300.

I got the same uneasiness as I think you felt their just reading about the phone call.
 
This is good info John. Perhaps the tolerances on your pump are so close that temperature variations can cause it to seize (mildly) or not start pumping on its own. At least you've got a place to first look should it happen again (knock on wood). :thup
 
Update

The stove is headed back to me in AK. The shipping cost is $60 by mail. I called back and talked to Doug and he asked if I had tried the hair dryer trick. I hadn't been told previously of this one. You heat the pump with a hair dryer and it helps loosen the gum in the pump.

He said my stove interior was VERY clean with me currently burning diesel. Doug said that if I use low settings often I might then want to consider the Kleen Heat Fuel.

I bought a spare fuel pump for $246 and a spare glow plug. Doug is allowing me to send the fuel pump back for a full refund within 6 months if I don't use it. Nice Gesture.

So the stove is headed back with about a $470 bill with nothing done to actually fix it, but with a couple spare parts.

Again, banging the pump was discussed, they have had GREAT success bringing the pumps back to life by banging on their metal frame.

Hope this might help someone else.

John
 
Clean fuel is far better than diesel and more stable. That may make a difference as well.
Wallis tool kit: Hammer, hair dryer....
Heat is nice though.
 
We have a 2006 Tomcat. The Wallas works fine while at the dock or at anchor. Every time it's heating under power at any speed it starts smoking. Some times it may have been heating just fine for an hour or more before it goes into the "SMOKE" mode. This happends at high, med, or low settings We shut it down at this point.
I'm sure it is a vent problem, but don't know what the fix would be. The instalation is the same as every other CD 25.5. Has any one else had this problem? WE have talked to the factory people at the past two SBS and received, no worthwhile suggestions. This has been going on since day one.
Rick had the same model (different Year) in his CD 22 and it never missed a beat. We have 650 hours on the Tomcat, mostly BC and Alaska It would sure be nice to have a warm cabin while running.
 
garyk":1xqdh9ke said:
We have a 2006 Tomcat. The Wallas works fine while at the dock or at anchor. Every time it's heating under power at any speed it starts smoking. Some times it may have been heating just fine for an hour or more before it goes into the "SMOKE" mode. This happends at high, med, or low settings We shut it down at this point.
I'm sure it is a vent problem, but don't know what the fix would be. The instalation is the same as every other CD 25.5. Has any one else had this problem? WE have talked to the factory people at the past two SBS and received, no worthwhile suggestions. This has been going on since day one.
Rick had the same model (different Year) in his CD 22 and it never missed a beat. We have 650 hours on the Tomcat, mostly BC and Alaska It would sure be nice to have a warm cabin while running.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you've got a back-pressure issue from the wind pressure against the exhaust outlet. I think this was discussed before, with the solution being to put a clamshell windguard over the exhaust vent.


Click on image fr link to WM Catalogue.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Here's the last post on the previous thread about the back-pressure problem. Looks like we're due for a report from Moose!

MOOSE":1n1vpk4h said:
drjohn71a":1n1vpk4h said:
Joe, I don't know about that clamshell idea. Has anyone else done that to a Wallas? I'd like to do something to eliminate the windage/backdraught problem.

John
Click to expand...

I think the clamshell idea is worth a try, so when I was down at Marine General in Duluth earlier this week I picked up a 2" x 2" clamshell vent for about $8. It had three mounting holes; the one at the apex I ground off because it didn't match anything. The two at the open end were spaced 1 5/8" apart and the bolt spacing on my Wallas exhaust flange is 1 1/4". So I just squeezed the clamshell in a vice until the holes matched. When I give this a try this spring, I'll aim the clamshell toward the stern. The Wallas exhaust is 1" in diameter and the ID of my altered clamshell is about 3/4" x 3/4", so I'm hoping I'm not introducing a restriction. I'm also hoping I don't scorch the side of the boat by directing hot exhaust gasses along side it. Anyway, I think it's worth a try as an attempt to solve the backdraught issue. I'll keep you posted.
Al
Click to expand...
 
Wouldn't there be issues with the clam shell getting smashed into the boat on a dock??? Otherwise I'm intersted in trying this. Scan Marine (the wallas dealer) has recommended installing some kind of a wind diverter previously.

John

Oh yeah, might be worth mentioning that when my Wallas quit working on me was with a large crosswind blowing right into the exhaust while at trolling speeds.
 
John,

What lead thru do you have? Mine is shown below, I've been in 30-40 kt headwinds while underway, no problems, although I have the Wallas 1300 heater, don't know if it has the same sensitivities as the stove.

PICT0001.sized.jpg
 
John S":2uvwlvaf said:
Update

The stove is headed back to me in AK. The shipping cost is $60 by mail. I called back and talked to Doug and he asked if I had tried the hair dryer trick. I hadn't been told previously of this one. You heat the pump with a hair dryer and it helps loosen the gum in the pump.

He said my stove interior was VERY clean with me currently burning diesel. Doug said that if I use low settings often I might then want to consider the Kleen Heat Fuel.

I bought a spare fuel pump for $246 and a spare glow plug. Doug is allowing me to send the fuel pump back for a full refund within 6 months if I don't use it. Nice Gesture.

So the stove is headed back with about a $470 bill with nothing done to actually fix it, but with a couple spare parts.

Again, banging the pump was discussed, they have had GREAT success bringing the pumps back to life by banging on their metal frame.

Hope this might help someone else.

John
Click to expand...

I wanted to update this post with the latest. The stove worked for a 10 day, 9 night trip in Prince William Sound flawlessly. Then as we were preparing the boat for our inside passage cruise I switched it on and it wouldn't light off. Multiple tries later I called Scan Marine (the pump wasn't clicking) Mike (the technician) recommended installing my brand new spare pump. The stove now works great again. We talked fuel, I told him I use fresh diesel from the pump and he said that was the BEST fuel to use.

Oh, and my exhaust is similiar to the one above in the picture but it's flat.
 
hi guys , I am new to this forum , and would like to express that I found here some very useful info on the Wallas 95.
thanks for that .

my use of the Wallas cooker is in a Toyota 4x4 , generally in off road trips in Africa.
It worked more or less for apron 8 years , and now it won't start.
I have , checked the pump , the electric line ecc.
now ready to throw it , too delicate and impossible to fix when you are far from any civilization.
and very expensive to fix .

My question is :
is there any one who was able or tried to make the Wallas 95 work without all the electronics ?
in a manual mode ?

thanks for any help .

bye Renago
 
Never, EVER heard of ANYONE turning their Wallas into a "non-electronic" operation. When the problems start they can get very finicky, your idea of pulling it at this point is probably best or replace it with a new one.
Good LUCK!
If you were in the US most people at this point send it to the distributor in Seattle Scan Marine for overhaul. You could try calling them on the phone they are very helpful and friendly when it comes to troubleshooting. But if it hasn't been into them for a full service within the last two years that will be their first recommendation
 
It is a drip pot type of burner, and I suspect that it could be modified to work with just a pump, or gravity flow. But then you have the issues trying to start it with a glow plug, temperature control. Heaters like the Dickinson diesel heaters run without electronics…but they are designed from scratch to be manual…

8 years is pretty good service. Look at the articles on this forum and in the archives. It will show you how some have trouble shot the same stove. also in the Archives are diagrams etc.
 
thanks guys for the replies.
in 8 years it got stuck only 3-4 times....
and changed the electronic main board once .
that' not so good.....

I personally have dismantled it all , and found that the furnace is well designed and could work for a long time with no problem.
the plug is like a normal diesel car , not an issue , switch it on for 10-20 sec.
the diesel pump we will still need it , connected to the power knob.
we need the fan for the fumes ,
fan of the lid , easy.
would scrap all the rest , simply throw it .
for cooling simply have a timer or a switch connected to a fan .
think would still need the temp sensor , just to have a ok for the combustion ??
that will be a maybe.
am I missing some thing ??
diesel is impossible to explode , so no safety issues .

but I am OPEN to any suggestions.

bye Renago
 
Sounds like it is going to be, "put a little diesel in there, turn on the switches, and find out how much metering of fuel is necessary". You are correct that it can all be done by hand/manual. The electronics make it easy, the manual, will require paying a lot of attention to how it is working. Be interesting to see how it goes!
 
No. The correct fuel to air mixture must be maintained and there is truly no way to do that manually.

Call us. Q&A are free.




Doug@Scan
1-888-606-6665
 
Years ago I had a diesel heater in the tug.... it was one of those old fashioned ones... you had to start a small fire in a cup using alcohol and then once the cup was good and hot you started the drip.... and it worked...and made heat...but it also made lots of smoke and stink... once it got away from me and filled the cabin with black smoke... what a mess... it required constant adjustment... I can just imagine having one of those things on a gasoline powered boat...what a bomb... I finally took all the diesel stuff off...the drip pan, cup and burner and replaced the entire lower part of the heater with a Coleman propane camp heater... I use those small fat bottles of propane and the heater vents into the top half of the old heater... works really well...much better than diesel.

On my C-Dory I have a propane Dickerson heater....the burn chamber is totally enclosed and vented from the outside... plus I like to watch the flames....kinda romantic... one of those wine and cheese deals.

Joel
SEA3PO
 
Nice comments, Joel!

I think the Dickinson Propane Fireplace is the best of the propane heaters. It's fully enclosed, draws combustion air from outside and vents outside in a coaxial set of tubes. Clean, quick and easy to deal with. Great looking, too!

Dickinson_stove_on_Stimpy.jpg
00NEWP9000NEWPORTPROPANEFIREPLACENEW.jpg


I have an older design Force 10 Cozy Cabin Propane Heater and like it a lot. Only limitation is the exposed flame at the bottom, and that it uses cabin air. Still, it's simple and pretty much foolproof.

Completed_Project.jpg
237412.jpg


Of course, any propane heater must have several safety features such as 1) an automatic shut-off controlled by a propane sniffer, 2) a CO (carbon monoxide) alarm, and 3) have the propane tank properly isolated in a propane locker.

After years of searching I have not found a heater without some drawbacks or compromises.

Perhaps the simplest and safest is an electric heater running off 120 volt AC shore power, but when more than 50 feet from the nearest outlet, it's back to a combustion heater of some type, or a generator to power your electric heater.

This is one of those topics with endless discussion possibilities. :lol:

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
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