Wallas Stoves and Battery Monitors

M

MOOSE

Member
I was thinking about adding a battery monitor to ensure that I have sufficient voltage to get the Wallas started. I first spotted the Xantrex Link 20 Two-bank Monitor, but this may be way more than I need. And then I saw the BlueSea Multiple Bank Digital Voltmeters and this looks like a better deal, monetarily at least. What, if anything, do the rest of you folks use to monitor battery condition?
Al
 
I installed the digital volt meter you described in my boat a couple of months ago. Cost and ease of installation swayed me towards the Blue Sea. I use it to confirm my batteries are charged before taking the boat out and to understand the state of charge on the house battery when anchored up for extended periods. It's also serves as a quick check that my onboard battery charger and alternator are working as designed.

FYI. I've checked the readings against my hand held volt meter and found the onboard meter consistently reads .05 to .1 volts higher. Snot a big deal. Tim
 
Hi Al, Having an accurate voltmeter is a must when using the Wallas, IMO. I started off with a Professional Mariner 4 bank analog but wanted more accuracy. So i removed the meter and popped in a Blue Seas Digital Voltmeter. I only wish it displayed 100ths volt instead of 10ths.
Digital_Voltmeter.sized.jpg
 
I installed two "Stinger SVMB Digital LED's" about $30 each at Hifisoundconnection.com.

Really simple to install - three wires - one to the pos & neg on the battery and the third to th accessory switch on the panel. Plus the black gauge with the blue digital read out looks really cool. I'll post a photo in the next day.
 
ccflyer--why is the house battery reading 12.2 volts. In my book this is 50% discharged. Why two meters, rather than one with a switch?--even three way.

Incidently in the past, the Professional Mariner was notorious for producing RF interference on Ham radios and Marine SSB....

We have never had a problem with low battery voltage and the Wallas--even sitting for 3 days with no engine running, the stove starts up every time. The stove battery was very close to the stove.

I agree that it would be nice to have a meter which reads to hundredths of a volt. The question is: which is more accurate the DVM or the in the dash meter? I have found some variance in various digital meters.
 
I used two gauges because, at $30 a pop, it just seemed it would be easier than adding a switch.

After installation the gauges matched my digital volt meter readings.

And yes, this is the fourth season on these batteries which is one reason why I put in the gauges and always carry a portable back up.
 
What size wire do you guys use to connect your gauges to the batteries? The Blue Sea 3-Bank voltage monitor calls for 16 ga. wire. The instructions also say that if the monitor is installed more than a "few feet" away from the batteries, that one should use a separate positive wire to power the unit and one for voltage sensing; otherwise the two terminals on the monitor could be jumpered together. Should I be concerned about voltage drop in 16 ga. wire running from the monitor on the dash to the port lazarette?
Al
 
The 16 wire is fine for the sense--but I would put at least an extra 14 guage wire for the power to the electronic circuit on the battery meter.

I would be uncomfortable with a battery which read 12.2 or 12.4 volts resting several hours after a charge. I like to see 12.6 to 12.7 at least on the resting batteries.
 
I ran a seperate run to power the unit and used 14 ga. for all as I already had it in hand. I'm not sure I'd worry about voltage drop Moose as it's all relative. At the end of the day as I understand it (provided were not operating in cold temperatures and our batteries are in good shape), we effectively have one volt to play with. After fully charging my batteries, my meter shows a voltage of 12.8 after losing the surface charge. I know I should be charging the battery once the meter reads 12.3 or so and feeling sorry for myself if it reads 11.8.

Tim
 
We had Les (EQ Marine) install a Xantrex Link 20 on Naknek a couple years ago, and although maybe a bit of overkill - really enjoy it. Good and realiable voltage read-outs (obtainable via other, cheaper methods...), and I like being able see the Ah drawn down or recharging state.

Again, maybe a bit of overkill, but I find it useful.

Casey
C-Dory Naknek
...enjoying "Canada Day" in Ocean Falls, BC !
 
I have been following this thread with interest. Would like to have a simple battery monitor. Came across this unit, on sale at Cabela's.


Would one of you more electrically minded chaps take a look and voice your opinion?

Thanks in advance.

John
Swee Pea
 
The issue I'd have with the Cabella product is that it's LCD - which means after dark I'll need to have another light source to get a reading.

BTW: all this talk of proper voltage - and the iffy readings on my 3+ year old batteries - prompted me to order a Blue Top Optima - I'll post the readings after use as a house battery later in the season.

Phil
 
The "in dash" unit has back lighting--so it would be fine after dark. However they seem to moniter in %--I would rather know the volts, than %. I have several different instruments which give voltage--Fish finders, GPS etc--and sometimes they read erronously. I attribute this to corrosion or smaller than proper wiring to that instrument, rather than the state of the batteries--until proven otherwise. I'll have to check and see if there is some way that these guages can read voltage--I suspect that they use standard tables for voltage, and don't measure amps in and out, as the link systems do.

We found that with full time cruising we would replace the battery banks every 4 years--often this decision was at the time we would be making a passage across an ocean--and it was critical that we have optimal battery performance.

We have found that at times Sams, Costco has good golf cart batteries--but at other times they are lighter in weight than, for example Trojans. The quality of a battery will vary with its weight--because the heavier battery will have thicker lead plates. So, check the weights and see if you can find who the manufacturer is.

I am not totally convinced that AGM batteries are the ideal, except in a situation where you will not be using the boat for a long time (low self discharge rate), or where you will have the battery in the living quarters, with no outside vents. If the battery has to be mounted on its side, then definately the AGM fits the bill. The problem with Gel cells, is their sensivity to over charging voltage. If the voltage is over 14.1 volts they are toast very rapidly...
 
Well, I just completed installation of the BlueSea 3 Bank monitor and, to my utter amazement, it actually works and I didn't blow anything up in the process. It reads within one or two hundreths of what the multimeter shows directly at the batteries. It's a nice unit.

Now, here's the key question: What is the minimum voltage required to ensure the Wallas starts the first time? I have a 125 DU.
Al
 
I have the Wallas 1300 Heater, I believe the same mechanism, and have successfully started it as low as 11.6 volts (measured at the heater terminals). I think my manual says 11.0 Volts minimum (that would be at the unit not the battery), so would have to allow for any voltage drop between the battery and unit dependent upon wire gauge used.

I've read other members say 12.0 volts minimum for success -- probably measured at the battery.
 
man....and for all this time....I thought the little red blinking light on the wallas ..... WAS my low voltage indicator. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

then... i learned to really trust the high dollar leave it running all the time in the dock on board marine battery charging unit on the boat..... it really worked!! and no more blinking red lights.... but, just to be sure, on those cold mornings on the lake with the heavy fog lifting from the water, I found it 100% safe to fire up the starboard motor, then warm up the wallas as to ensure a nice, smooth, fire it up once breakfast cooking.

Thinking I will go with the gauges next time round....and, I too like being able to see the volts on the batteries without having to push buttons and switches... just a simple glance..and hopefully a nice smile.

Byrdman.
 
MOOSE":mc7mpffq said:
Now, here's the key question: What is the minimum voltage required to ensure the Wallas starts the first time? I have a 125 DU.
Al
Click to expand...

Mine likes a minimum of 12v. If I don't have 12.5v I start the motor first and let it run until the stove is lit and warming. I think it is the ignition cycle that requires the max voltage. The stove will run fine down to 11.5v once it is fired up.
 
'Just a thought to consider...

When these new meters are placed in the your systems, has any consideration been given to placing waterproof fuse holders in line with each positive lead to the meter? The smaller current value would be preferred.

Most inexpensive analog meters will deliver full scale deflection with only 1/1000 of an amp, or 1milliamp. The digital voltmeter should be much less, depending on the analog to digital converters input needs and its scaling factors. In otherwords, it is a specialized display processor whose load on the sense line is in the neighborhood of meaningless.

I mention the fuse to protect the wiring harness from a possible electrical fire. This fuse will also protect the metering equipment.

Regardless of which unit you use, the readings are an indication of the voltage at the meter's terminals. The total losses beyond each of the meter's terminals and the metering device's % of accuracy will modify your true battery voltage indication on the device.

Properly size the wire [remember the length is 2x the distance, going and coming].

Clean and use tight wx-proof connections [poor connections turn into resistive connections and losses will build], including within the fuse holders.

Properly route the cabling [watch for chaffing and hot points].

This will give you the best probable accuracy and safety. IHO
 
I decided to go ahead and buy the Marcum Technologies B200 from Cabelas. ($29.95). You can vist the Marcum site http://www.marcumtech.com/products/prod ... ProdCat1=3

Real easy install. It monitors each battery every 5 seconds, but true, it is in % only. But for a simple guy like me, knowing the % of battery is good enough for now. I bought the surface mount and installed it next to the battery switch. If I get a couple of years out of it, it would be money well spent. If I need something more in the future, I can remove the Marcum unit and you will never know it was there.

I am 100% better off than when I started. % - get it? Never mind.

Safe boating

John
Swee Pea
 
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